As a school bus tire changer I have gone through a few of these, most of them are of knock off quality, deals can be found on pneumatic versions, the hardest part is finding the correct reaction arms and getting one strong enough to get it off but not over torque, (low torque under 450 and high nut breaking torque over 750, the stronger ones need less air pressure but are slower, the good news is they all are accurate as a torque wrench when using the specific regulator -filter-lubracator. (FLR) at the correct setting.
Don't forget passenger side threads are right handed. On the lug nuts look on the face for L or R for tightening. Those sockets can be bought at truck stops if you get desperate and willing to pay a lot of $$$.
I bought a deuce last bring and I got a new air inch impact one of these would be good to have in the side compartment Take Along just for backup thanks for posting Love the deuce😊
I'm you weren't hauling anything would it be THAT bad to just take the flat tire off and keep rocking. I mean it would still drive fine right? (In a pinch)
It is not a problem if the single tire can still handle the load on that side of the axle. You don't even need to take the other tire off as long as it is not rubbing on the good tires sidewall. Taken too extreme I once had a boom truck that blew both tires on the left side rear axle. It had a walking beam suspension. Using the rear stabilizer on that side I was able to raise the tires off the ground, put wood blocking under the axle, then lower the tires and chain the axle with the tires off the ground. I then drove 40 miles back to the yard which got me home and saved an after hours service call. The front drive axle did all of the work getting back and I didn't need the extra load capacity. Don't try that at home and whatever you do don't drive through a check point with it. Dual tires are for extra load capacity if you don't have the load you don't need the extra tire. Even if you are loaded if you go slow depending on where you are at you can still keep going to get out of a bad situation. You have to be prepared to loose the other tire.
You can see the tool being used here. czcams.com/video/vesBDXCWrUw/video.html The video link is of a more heavy duty version from www.Cheaterwrench.com I would have liked to have seen how much effort was used with this small version of the tool.
Can this torque multiplier be adapted for use in situations where there isn't an adjacent nut close by to brace the stubby reaction arm? Are the holes in the arm big enough to slip an iron bar through it that would be long enough to brace against the ground? I bought a Ratchet Helper, with a 5x torque multiplication, but it's only a 1/2" drive rated for 500 ft-lbs before breaking, so I was considering one of these higher strength types, except I'd need to adapt it to be able to use without the exposed lug nut configuration.
+DTR RTD you could definitely make an adapter arm, with a little ingenuity. There are a few small holes in the arm but not it the correct orientation for how you're talking.
czcams.com/video/KIHzSWvXSJE/video.htmlm20s From the view here, the holes do look pretty small, so it wouldn't fit a bar hefty enough to withstand much torque, but if they were, I was considering putting a steel bar through it that was long enough to reach the ground, which would act as the brace to keep the reaction arm from spinning under load. Actually, looking at it further, it looks like it'd be possible to simply put a bar between the reaction arm and the socket, extending to the ground. That would work better since it's closer to the drive socket. Any chance you could try finding out if that's feasible? If it works, I'm getting one, because the ratchet helper one that I bought was a bit too light duty for what I want these things for. That was intended more simply to make it easier to remove lug nuts with less effort, but I'm looking for something that can work where breaker bars fear to tread...
The click bait title got me. This video is a fucking annoying waste of time. Thanks for nothing! None of us viewers can ever get that 5 or 6 minutes of our lives back. So you sure have done your part to improve the world. Not.
@@jecustoms52 Wrong response, Torque multiplier in action is literally the title, yet no action. People here probably never have even heard about this tool, but came here to see it, not have you tell them to go buy one.
I just thought it was rude what he said, if you look at the other comments there is a nice viewer who pointed out the exact time where the tool is in action. The gear reduction is so extreme the tool moves very slowly.
*Important* When you took it off, did you use the included retainer arm or did you have to use a bushing compensator instead. You didn't show which style you used.
You said they were left hand threads and yet you put the 'foot' of the body on top of the next nut which would mean you were turning the handle the wrong way...
+Koito rob draw it out on paper and maybe you will be able to visualize it better, to loosen the nut I have to spin it to the right, this would torque the lever arm to the left.
Can believe there was so many dislikes....I'm thinking people don't understand what a torque multiplier is....I saw it in action perfectly...three cranks..yields about 1/8" on the lug nut....that's super high torque.
Right. But, using a bar I have often thought...what's going to break first? The nut, the bar, the ratchet wrench, breaker bar... I have seen people hang on the bar or jump on it. I have skinned my leg up using a bar on a yoke nut. But, it got the job done.
I broke a perfectly good 48” x3/4” drive breaker bar then went & bought a $99 one from HF but it snapped on my first bounce. Bought a Klutch multiplier from Northern Tool & it broke that 1-5/8 lug nut loose easily.
for the price of $50 I could buy a 18" breaker bar, 3" extension, and a double ended socket with 19mm on one side and 21mm on the other side and I could change the wheel and pretty much every car in america.
Thats a problem with poor maintenance. You would of been better off renting that tool sense you'll only use it once to free the rusty bolts and every time after will be a breeze once you push some anti seize on them so that they'll never rust back together. But I do see you point. Rusty bolts can be a pain to remove especially if they break when removing them.
Aaron Radd... actually that was closer to 20yrs ago now, and it was Firestone, not Michelin. As a result, Ford ended a working relationship with Firestone that had been in place nearly a hundred years. For the record, I'm not a Michelin fan, but their heavy truck tires are nicer to work with than most others when having to mount them. If you want proof, go hang with a tire guy who does heavy truck tires for a day or two. I like Bridgestones and Yokohama tires. Goodyears will do, but they are always difficult to get beaded up.
+calvingreene90 when I was first trying to get them loose I had a breaker bar and was bouncing on the end of a 10ft pipe and it wouldn't budge, I used a factory m35a2 tire removal kit successfully the first time I removed the nuts, this tool is just easier to set up and smaller to store.
+Jeff S jet.com/product/detail/85d692817de7455f88e88ee4cbc85b3a?jcmp=pla:ggl:b_nj_dur_gen_hardware_a2_b1:tools_wrenches_a2_other:na:PLA_643009581_30054710902_aud-155003204480:pla-161695074060:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15&gclid=CMnUw-HZ1c8CFcecgQodRnECsg&gclsrc=ds
+Shaunak Intwala I think it is a little grey area, there is not allowed to be any new construction using them but it is also based entirely on your state/ county. I wouldn't recommend them.
multi-piece wheels without split rims are still legal, although will probably be getting phased out soon as there are single piece demountable wheels now. Split rims (the ones with a z-cut throught the rim itself) are not legal as they have a much higher likelyhood of failing, even when mounted. there is a lot of confusion as to the diffence between split rims and multi-piece. split rim refers to the part the tire actually mounts to and valvestem extends through. they have a z-shaped cut through them. multi-piece refers to the fact that there are multiple parts that have to be assembled for it to work properly. the rim, and up to 3 locking rings that hold the tire and tube to the assembly.
this style wheel is still widely used on ag & construction equipment. like jake said, it is the other style that is bad. these done wrong can go bad too, you have to know how to handle the rings.
they are used in intermodal transportation nationwide - i'd say 80% of the tires i do are split. and have even seen some of the old 3 piece style at times. do me a favor though when you are removing a dualie split rim tire make sure you deflate both tires. its the one thing we *have* to do as a standard so the ring on the other wheel has no chance to blow out and take your head off and re inflate after they are secure on the truck. only takes a few extra minutes to re inflate it. i see a lot of people who own these make this mistake
MKIIIsupra2jz I've always wondered is it safe to run these without a duel setup, seems like they are designed to be part of an assembly with another wheel and nut clamping everything together.
I too have that exact same design tool but red, too bad that us Americans cannot make simple tools like that and instead hand over our money to the chinese!, and no doubt the materials used to make the gear reduction parts inside is junk metal!
he didn't show the actual operation on removing,the tire!!
Good takniek so easy and so manye Drivers help thanks to help
we didn't get to see it in action you realise?
no tripod
jane blogs worst review of anything ever.
BULSHIT Video
We didn't get to see it in action!
It's based on trust man.
We just have to trust him.
Actually most truthful review of anything ever. Learn to STFU fanboy.
Pointless as it never shoes using the tool! Skip this video.
I don't know what you mean; I can see one of his shoes on the ground at 4:20
+Dan Bonnett I literally laughed out loud
The winch was lamenting the price of grease ;-)
as a mechanic for 30 years,I have never had an opportunity to use one like that , that's pretty cool
As a school bus tire changer I have gone through a few of these, most of them are of knock off quality, deals can be found on pneumatic versions, the hardest part is finding the correct reaction arms and getting one strong enough to get it off but not over torque, (low torque under 450 and high nut breaking torque over 750, the stronger ones need less air pressure but are slower, the good news is they all are accurate as a torque wrench when using the specific regulator -filter-lubracator. (FLR) at the correct setting.
When tightening, how do you know when to stop? Can you drive this multiplier with a torque wrench?
No. The tool is used for removal of lug nuts and studs only
A nice grip for gripping
+jacob thompson haha I thought it was a good technical review
Studs are designed for duals and the original tire tool that was issued with the truck had both a square and hex socket
Don't forget passenger side threads are right handed. On the lug nuts look on the face for L or R for tightening. Those sockets can be bought at truck stops if you get desperate and willing to pay a lot of $$$.
Or cheap on Amazon
I bought a deuce last bring and I got a new air inch impact one of these would be good to have in the side compartment Take Along just for backup thanks for posting Love the deuce😊
for $37.07 at Sears you can get one very similar to this one....
if only he had bought it at Sears they might not have gone bankrupt. Save a buck and put your neighbour out of a job buy china.
I didn't see any movement in the removal process.
+hello hun the gear reduction makes it very slow, I didn't think I needed to show the full removal process, just how easy the reduction made it.
I'm you weren't hauling anything would it be THAT bad to just take the flat tire off and keep rocking. I mean it would still drive fine right? (In a pinch)
It is not a problem if the single tire can still handle the load on that side of the axle. You don't even need to take the other tire off as long as it is not rubbing on the good tires sidewall. Taken too extreme I once had a boom truck that blew both tires on the left side rear axle. It had a walking beam suspension. Using the rear stabilizer on that side I was able to raise the tires off the ground, put wood blocking under the axle, then lower the tires and chain the axle with the tires off the ground. I then drove 40 miles back to the yard which got me home and saved an after hours service call. The front drive axle did all of the work getting back and I didn't need the extra load capacity. Don't try that at home and whatever you do don't drive through a check point with it. Dual tires are for extra load capacity if you don't have the load you don't need the extra tire. Even if you are loaded if you go slow depending on where you are at you can still keep going to get out of a bad situation. You have to be prepared to loose the other tire.
To many didn't see how it works , this kind of videos are for mechanic inclined people, there ir nothing to explain.
Nice video. I have a few questions. Is it still working? Have you ever taken it apart to add grease or any other maintenance?
I ended up selling the truck and included the multiplier with the truck. It worked every time I used it but unfortunately no real long term review.
You can see the tool being used here. czcams.com/video/vesBDXCWrUw/video.html The video link is of a more heavy duty version from www.Cheaterwrench.com I would have liked to have seen how much effort was used with this small version of the tool.
He doesn't leave the camera on the tool long enough to see anything happening
Well... at least we know it has a nice grip.
Can this torque multiplier be adapted for use in situations where there isn't an adjacent nut close by to brace the stubby reaction arm? Are the holes in the arm big enough to slip an iron bar through it that would be long enough to brace against the ground?
I bought a Ratchet Helper, with a 5x torque multiplication, but it's only a 1/2" drive rated for 500 ft-lbs before breaking, so I was considering one of these higher strength types, except I'd need to adapt it to be able to use without the exposed lug nut configuration.
+DTR RTD you could definitely make an adapter arm, with a little ingenuity. There are a few small holes in the arm but not it the correct orientation for how you're talking.
czcams.com/video/KIHzSWvXSJE/video.htmlm20s
From the view here, the holes do look pretty small, so it wouldn't fit a bar hefty enough to withstand much torque, but if they were, I was
considering putting a steel bar through it that was long enough to reach the ground, which would act as the brace to keep the reaction arm from spinning under load.
Actually, looking at it further, it looks like it'd be possible to simply put a bar between the reaction arm and the socket, extending to the ground. That would work better since it's closer to the drive socket.
Any chance you could try finding out if that's feasible? If it works, I'm getting one, because the ratchet helper one that I bought was a bit too light duty for what I want these things for. That was intended more simply to make it easier to remove lug nuts with less effort, but I'm looking for something that can work where breaker bars fear to tread...
+DTR RTD that would work putting the bar between the arm and the barrel of the multiplier.
Milwaukee's high torque impact to launch this fall has 1400ft lbs in reverse. Cordless...
The only action i saw was you mouth not shutting up. Show us the dam tool
+Gato X7 buy one and you can see it every day if you want
is that like "pass the bill to see whats in the bill"?
The click bait title got me. This video is a fucking annoying waste of time. Thanks for nothing! None of us viewers can ever get that 5 or 6 minutes of our lives back. So you sure have done your part to improve the world. Not.
@@jecustoms52 Wrong response, Torque multiplier in action is literally the title, yet no action. People here probably never have even heard about this tool, but came here to see it, not have you tell them to go buy one.
I just thought it was rude what he said, if you look at the other comments there is a nice viewer who pointed out the exact time where the tool is in action. The gear reduction is so extreme the tool moves very slowly.
6 yrs later. Is it still working as it should?
I sold the truck with the tool included so I am unsure unfortunately.
*Important* When you took it off, did you use the included retainer arm or did you have to use a bushing compensator instead. You didn't show which style you used.
+Jay Starr the included arm pressed against the hub is all
powdering the tube will keep it from rubbing the inner tire and make a hole.
These tools work. I bought one for my Diesel Pusher RV.
Not complaining anymore changing 33" tires off my truck. How did you change that tire w/out blowing left nutz?
+Harold Derr using a large pry bar under the tire relieves a lot of the stress and allows you to maneuver it around.
How much can that little thing handle? Semi truck lug nuts are set to 450 pounds.
+G G it is rated around 450 ftlbs
To be fair, at 2:53, he did show, briefly, how the torque multiplier works.
And the purpose of the remaining 5 mins and 52 seconds was....?
nice tool used to have to use 1 inch impact at 2am half asleep and did you know the bitch will throw if you'er not ready
how do you how much torque you have on those lug nuts?
I just use a bi ex socket does same job with a bar. Nippon trucks still have this setup
Interesting thanks
You said they were left hand threads and yet you put the 'foot' of the body on top of the next nut which would mean you were turning the handle the wrong way...
+Koito rob draw it out on paper and maybe you will be able to visualize it better, to loosen the nut I have to spin it to the right, this would torque the lever arm to the left.
Hi random person scrolling through the comments.
Sup.
+JDHogg sup
Was that a old trash truck or dump truck of some kind
+Maynard 59 it was a water truck for the forest service
planetary gear sets woooo
Can believe there was so many dislikes....I'm thinking people don't understand what a torque multiplier is....I saw it in action perfectly...three cranks..yields about 1/8" on the lug nut....that's super high torque.
Could you share where you purchased the tool? Thanks.
www.amazon.com/HOMCOM-E8-0001-HomCom-Torque-Multiplier/dp/B00G3NA6C0/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1537562568&sr=8-14&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=torque+multipliers
he has onboard air? that would need to be powerful for an impact.
+Eric jones every half inch impact I tried wouldn't touch the lug nuts, this kit is a lot easier than running a hose and lugging a 1" impact around.
Bring your Milwaukee M18 1400ft.lbs cordless impact gun. Problem averted, film at 11:00.
air tanks to small for such a big lug on a car it would come of easy those lugs are touch go get of
Wow, I never knew Christian Bale was also a mechanic!
Great tool.
i had one and returned it to store for heavy trucks it slips off the nut
Let's torque about the wheely good job he did on his truck
I have plenty of torque multipliers. They are also known as long bars. Much cheaper free even.
I thought the same :)
Right. But, using a bar I have often thought...what's going to break first? The nut, the bar, the ratchet wrench, breaker bar... I have seen people hang on the bar or jump on it. I have skinned my leg up using a bar on a yoke nut. But, it got the job done.
I broke a perfectly good 48” x3/4” drive breaker bar then went & bought a $99 one from HF but it snapped on my first bounce. Bought a Klutch multiplier from Northern Tool & it broke that 1-5/8 lug nut loose easily.
What kind of truck was that you were working I do like to know what your working on
stop stop It is an M35a2 2.5ton military truck.
just put up a video on my m35a2 lug nut removal with a torque multiplier, no jaw jacking for 10 minutes..
for the price of $50 I could buy a 18" breaker bar, 3" extension, and a double ended socket with 19mm on one side and 21mm on the other side and I could change the wheel and pretty much every car in america.
+Technician when I was first trying to take them off I was standing on a 10ft cheater pipe and they wouldn't budge.
Thats a problem with poor maintenance. You would of been better off renting that tool sense you'll only use it once to free the rusty bolts and every time after will be a breeze once you push some anti seize on them so that they'll never rust back together. But I do see you point. Rusty bolts can be a pain to remove especially if they break when removing them.
+Technician agreed, It jus helps make life a little easier
I have had success loosening rusted tight lug nuts by giving them a good wack with a hammer.
"Nice grip for...., uh.., gripping...."
Nice!!!! I learned something!
i never seen the socket even move
Your whole problem is the Goodyear tires, but then I work for Michelin the number one tire maker.
c est du n importe quoi,parce que michelin serait le dieu du pneu .chez moi ,il ne rentre plus depuis longtemps et pourtant je suis francais
Does Michelin make tires for the M35A2?
+Wolfgang1224 they do
Steve Darnell didn't Michelin make the tires that were blowing out on new ford explorers about 10 years ago? I'll stick with anything but michelin
Aaron Radd... actually that was closer to 20yrs ago now, and it was Firestone, not Michelin. As a result, Ford ended a working relationship with Firestone that had been in place nearly a hundred years. For the record, I'm not a Michelin fan, but their heavy truck tires are nicer to work with than most others when having to mount them. If you want proof, go hang with a tire guy who does heavy truck tires for a day or two. I like Bridgestones and Yokohama tires. Goodyears will do, but they are always difficult to get beaded up.
Do you have to have a CDL to drive that truck?
+john schwarz you do not, it falls in a nice little gray area between a big truck and an rv
To think I multiply toque with a four foot length of galvanized pipe.
+calvingreene90 when I was first trying to get them loose I had a breaker bar and was bouncing on the end of a 10ft pipe and it wouldn't budge, I used a factory m35a2 tire removal kit successfully the first time I removed the nuts, this tool is just easier to set up and smaller to store.
Hell i wanted see it in action... geez. btw, love you duece 1/2
I'm old school and use a pipe.
+Abunai One when I was first trying to take them off I was standing on a 10ft cheater pipe and they wouldn't budge.
Maybe you need more burgers and fries?
+Abunai One maybe
Put your jack under the end of the tire tool to unseat the studs/lug nuts.
It defiantly should.
What kind of truck is that.
+John Hauserman military m35a2 2.5ton
Thanx for NOT SHOWING U TAKING THEM OFF!!!!!
Que precio tiene
Cool. Do you have a link to that?
+Jeff S
jet.com/product/detail/85d692817de7455f88e88ee4cbc85b3a?jcmp=pla:ggl:b_nj_dur_gen_hardware_a2_b1:tools_wrenches_a2_other:na:PLA_643009581_30054710902_aud-155003204480:pla-161695074060:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15&gclid=CMnUw-HZ1c8CFcecgQodRnECsg&gclsrc=ds
Thanks, your truck looks fun
It's still legal to drive on split rims/split rings?
+Shaunak Intwala I think it is a little grey area, there is not allowed to be any new construction using them but it is also based entirely on your state/ county. I wouldn't recommend them.
multi-piece wheels without split rims are still legal, although will probably be getting phased out soon as there are single piece demountable wheels now.
Split rims (the ones with a z-cut throught the rim itself) are not legal as they have a much higher likelyhood of failing, even when mounted.
there is a lot of confusion as to the diffence between split rims and multi-piece. split rim refers to the part the tire actually mounts to and valvestem extends through. they have a z-shaped cut through them. multi-piece refers to the fact that there are multiple parts that have to be assembled for it to work properly. the rim, and up to 3 locking rings that hold the tire and tube to the assembly.
this style wheel is still widely used on ag & construction equipment. like jake said, it is the other style that is bad. these done wrong can go bad too, you have to know how to handle the rings.
they are used in intermodal transportation nationwide - i'd say 80% of the tires i do are split. and have even seen some of the old 3 piece style at times. do me a favor though when you are removing a dualie split rim tire make sure you deflate both tires. its the one thing we *have* to do as a standard so the ring on the other wheel has no chance to blow out and take your head off and re inflate after they are secure on the truck. only takes a few extra minutes to re inflate it. i see a lot of people who own these make this mistake
MKIIIsupra2jz I've always wondered is it safe to run these without a duel setup, seems like they are designed to be part of an assembly with another wheel and nut clamping everything together.
should have showed tool in action
+Bill Butcher I know sorry, I've been trying to get better in my more recent videos
How much cost
$54
planet gear !!!
U set it up backwards. New video!
+arsim kafexhiu the drivers side has reverse threads on the deuce.
???????
I too have that exact same design tool but red, too bad that us Americans cannot make simple tools like that and instead hand over our money to the chinese!, and no doubt the materials used to make the gear reduction parts inside is junk metal!
please stop one-hand video, it wavers all over and looks weird
+erbenton07 I got ya
Just lost a time.
Smh, real good, not showing the action
710 dislikes made me save time
Super slow. I've used them.
And no this didnt help JACK!!!
Okay so I never saw you break one lug or tighten a lug pretty weird video
I agree, definitely not the most riveting video.
i want this product
get the details send my mail.
Cringe at 4:57. See ya never again.
You lost me at made in China
Wrong way. So dumb.
What a fake, not shame🙄
Out in the woods with a 'made in China' tool standing between you and getting on your way.
What could possibly go wrong...
lljh.
Your video looks shaky. Would like viewers to feel drunk and sea sick instead? Click Yes and let us "fix it" for you....
FAIL
No se ve nada eres mentiroso
I guess the tool doesnt work thats why he didnt show it
u need a tripod 😆
+Mohamed Dima I got one now
+John Elliott keep going 👍👍👍👍
+John Elliott tripod at least will keep the choice of being single hahahaha who knows
Made in China... Enough said!