Neiko Torque Multiplier Tool Review
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- čas přidán 8. 09. 2021
- On Amazon:
*NEIKO TORQUE MULTIPLIER: amzn.to/2X2T64q
*STYLE FOR LUG NUTS: amzn.to/3E2ISBV
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On Amazon:
*NEIKO TORQUE MULTIPLIER: amzn.to/2X2T64q
*STYLE FOR LUG NUTS: amzn.to/3E2ISBV
Frictional losses during actual tightening will reduce the torque from the ratio measured. So at light loads it will be 3.5:1 but at high loads it will be less. Probably that's why it is advertised as 3:1
That doesn’t make sense. Like the gearing in my truck doesn’t change for the load that’s out on it why would it change in this?
@@xaphan8581 More load causes more friction, in gearboxs, engines and of course, a torque multiplier.
Pully systems, even with the best of bearing will suffer from some friction losses.
If you think of it this way...if you place a pipe inside a slightly wider pipe and turn the inside pipe, it will turn easily.
Now place the wide pipe horizontal into a vise and add a small dumbbell to the end of the pipe that's inside the wider pipe and try to turn it, the friction will make it very difficult in comparison.
Now bearings lessen this friction by a lot, but still, with higher loads, the efficiency of bearings start to drop.
This is the best way I can explain this xaphan, I hope it helps.
I think it's just a rule if thumb to accout for approximately 15% frictional losses.
It is the same reason you are supposed to torque fasteners from the nut because there are less friction variables.
I’m so glad I kept watching to see the squirrel
I bought a used X-4 that was milsurp then removed and discarded the slipper clutch (which is just "grunt proofing", commercial mechs don't use them) similar to the Neiko. I looked up this video to use as an example for others. Every mechanic should own at least one torque multiplier! I use mine on Harley compensator nuts where the control is unsurpassed for removal and install torquing. Heavy equipment mechs use them in tandem for the big jobs but oddly many car and light truck mechs are ignorant of them. YOU WANT ONE if you're a mechanic.
Excellent video sir, about to order mine. You rock and roll, thank you very much!
The actual geared ratio is always different than the published ratio to account for torque loss of the device. Other exact ratio TMs that only publish the geared ratio, and it measures exactly as the geared ratio, include a math table to use to over torque the input to yield the perfect output.
Why?: There is tooth bending stress and also bearing loads inside the TM head that eat torque (the losses) hence you see the reaction arm really dig in and bend to hold back the geared head. So without a table and math accounting for gear tooth stress at lower ranges (lower stress = lower torque losses) v higher ranges (more losses) the suppliers just tell you it is 1:3 for your simple math when the real geared ratio may be more than 1:3 (such as 1:3.3 or 1:3.45) for inclusion of internal losses.
Interesting! Yeah I suppose that makes sense. I'll have to get my hands on a device to measure torque and see what the actual figures are
Turn ratio is 3.33:1 this is a fixed because of the planetary gears.
But because of friction losses practical torque ratio works out at about 3:1
I watched this vid cause I've never seen a Torque Multiplier... pretty cool... but that cameo, "LEO!" 🤗
Excellent review and demonstration.
Thanks
I don’t need a torque multiplier, but I’m pretty sure I need a pet squirrel!
He's a fun garage helper to have that's for sure
I was confused as to how I was gonna torque the track bar on a f250 to 406 ft lbs, now I know. Thanks!
No problem!
Jack up car. Set ratchet tight to ground on lug nut with lug nuts as tight as you can get them. Drop jack. Lift up car. Should be much higher torque using a 4000lb car.
@@joblessalex yea. And Jack up and down the car minimum of 16 times for each of the 4 lugs on the wheel.
He also said track bar. Not lug nuts.
@@anthony5227 Also would work with that. I've done it on struts even. Car can't fight back against 5000lbs on a 2ft lever.
@@joblessalex I mean.. if everything goes to plan.
I suppose your point is valid 😂.
Just lower the car and pray nothing slips
On most torque multipliers there is 10-20% loss of torque due to friction in the gear set. So basically if you put in 100 ft lbs you would not get 350 ft. It’s a range. So if you put in 100ft lbs you would get between 280-315ft lbs. so overall, make sure to account for that 10-20% loss when trying to accurately torque something
Great review buddy
Thanks for looking out for the little guy, he's so beautiful bless him ❤️
We need more people like you in this turning distpoian world 🌎
God bless you 🙏 ❤️
Construction Equipment mechanics use these a lot.
I am from venezuela thank you for the explication
Man I wish I had a small squirrel to put in my pocket all day lol
I own the smaller version it is 3.3:1 gearing and 3:1 torque. I've measured in vs. out torque it was within 2% maybe closer to 1%
That would be great for a Honda Crank bolt.
My man institutionalized a squirrel 😂😂😂😂😂
i imagined a tool like this, and poof here it is. That thing is thickk. You can just keep a compact impact wrench and whip this out on the occasion. Costs as much as a big milwaukee lol
Cool video! Could these torque multipliers be used with a combi drill? I assume impact wrenches would damage the internal gears but not sure about a drill
Leo is a cutie for sure 👍🏼
It's not 3.5 to 1 ratio for torque. It's 3.5 to 1 for revolutions. But because of internal friction losses the torque is reduced to 3 to 1 torque ratio. The manufacturer deliberately compensates for the losses "by adding on the 0.5". So for calculating more or less where you are for torques it would be better to assume a 3 to 1 ratio. 450 / 3 would give of course 150 lb.ft or whatever your numbers are. (Look up Norbar for info, that's the go to in Europe for us, but not for my pocket)
I bought one from Amazon and it was broken upon arrival. The square shank the socket is attached to was broken off. I had to return it to Amazon. Because I contacted Neiko and thats what their warranty rep told me to do. I purchased a different tool as a replacement.
I never knew the torque on those trucks wheels where that 450 lbs that's insane awesome
Torque Test channel is looking to test one of these; if you send him a message to use yours and you get him to help get the correct torque ratio numbers it would be a win-win minus whoever is paying to send it to each other
that pipe extension costs a helluva lot less than that Neiko thing
450ft.lb, I didn't know those were on that tight- regular cars are what like 80-120ft.lb?
What does is say for Friction losses? Then to add that.
Allowing the device to rotate during first measurement lost you one rotation.
Like how it takes over 65 minutes between each time the minute hand passes the hour hand.
Oh okay that makes sense
For the corrosion I used Kopper Kote one Has To reduce the input torque, I used a 25% reduction.
I need 400 Ft lbs for this one but the 1" breaker bar would work.
The way you tested the multiplier is the gear ratio and not the torque ratio. Gear ratio is determined by number of teeth, where torque ratio is determined by the size of the gears. Can you do another video where you check the tension of the nuts after using the multipler? 100Nm input to the multipler and the nuts should tighten to 300Nm.
Leooooooo !!!!!
Nice video.. Thanks
Cute squirl buddy👍
Maybe I'm wrong but if it's not reverse thread he's tightening those nuts.
It has reverse thread on one side
How much the Prize?
looks like pipe is pretty fine for a $ XD
куку мой мальчик
Could you use an impact wrench on it?
Yes, but if you want to precisely torque High torque bolts this is a great tool
Akuma- if you mean using an impact on this tool then no. It says you cannot use an impact on the input side of the torque multiplier.
Do not use an impact gun/wrench. Impact wrenches work by high inertia impacts often serval times higher than the breakaway torque produced. The momentary peak impact loads may cause stress cracks on the gear teeth or frame teeth inside and ultimately failures when teeth suddenly shear. Sudden failures during hand torquing may cause the famous 'face plant' to the pavement.
Great information thanhs guy❤
Way to break ratchets...at least a t-bar
You need training on using torque wrench. Never click it more than once cause once you do, you have over torqued the nut.
I'm guessing you don't have any real world experience if you think clicking it twice will cause problems. Not working on a rocket ship over here.