Knife Sharpening - Protech Strider PT - 154CM
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- čas přidán 8. 09. 2022
- Knife Sharpening - Protech Strider PT - 154CM
Knife Used:
Protech Strider PT
Steel Type:
154CM
Stones Used
Kai AP0509 Combo Stone - 240/1000 grit
Naniwa Aotoshi Green Brick of Joy - 2000 grit
Leather Strop with white compound
You’re about the slickest Uber ever saw sharpen a knife sir. That was truly something to watch right there. Earned a subscriber here!
🙏 thank you very much
Good commentary. Good job.
😂 i said i wasnt gonna comment much but i guess i couldnt shut up
Nice working knife
Yes i beat the hell out of this one. Very happy with how it’s held up
Nice video and a sharp blade to show for it mate.
👊
👍
Wow, great looking edge. I haven't sharpened a cpm154 edge before, but I have similar feelings for 8cr in that it feels like it just really wants to take a great edge. Maybe it's just that burr minimization is so much easier on that type of steel than a higher carbide material, but still to this day I get my best edges on 8cr. Have you always j-stropped? I don't feel like I've seen you use that technique before, but I could be mistaken.
Ive done that stropping pattern for most of my sharpening yes. I dont do it ALL the time, but often.
I like 8cr as well. It takes a wicked keen edge, and polishes so easily.
Finally got to sharpen a few of my own knives last night and messed around with the Aotoshi a little bit. It cut Spyderco s30v but it definitely wasn't eating it up. Left a really nice edge though. I tried a Yu Kurosaki Nakiri afterwards that uses forged R2/SG2 core steel at around 62 HRC and it wasn't touching that. Used my Rika 5k instead and it cut it easily 🤷♂️ To be fair I finished it on my 8k Shapton Pro and that stone was having some issues with it as well although it did eventually get it to the point I wanted. Finished on bare horse hide and it's stupid sharp 😳
Useful info. Hopefully if any are curious about what it can and can not handle, they will see this.
@@Jef Weird stone. Makes me wonder what properties are limiting it to certain steels; is it the abrasive itself, the binder...a combination of the 2? It's one of those stones that definitely is a niche stone. I'm gonna use it for stainless kitchen knives because it does an excellent job there. If you're in the market for a 2k that excels at cutting high carbide steels give the Kohetsu 2k from CKTG a try. Mine easily cuts CPM-M4 and other steels in that class. It's a little on the soft side like most Suehiros so I'm not sure if you would like it or not
I am probably not as good sharpening knives as you, but I got my Protech Strider with Magnacut and it takes an edge super easy!
That is good to hear. Magnacut, from what I seen, is fantastic stuff. Keeps an edge for quite awhile
I agree about stropping strokes, some people are dead set on doing it though. The only time I finish with them is if I'm forced to finish on a really soft stone, in those cases in my personal experience I get a cleaner edge with super light edge trailing strokes. I feel like that only works because you don't have a bunch of mud and abrasive impacting the apex. I'm talking really soft stones like the Red Brick that make King 1kish stones seem hard...
I’d agree with that assessment but even on soft stones, i tend to use edge leading. The sharpness difference is negligible to me
There's been a few times where ive used a trailing edge stroke to a decent effect. I only do it once per side in those instances. When i did it the idea was to align the edge without using a strop. Other times i'd do it once per side and then go edge leading once per side to get rid of a burr if edge leading by itself isnt working. Kinda rare though, i mostly do the plateau method
@@littlebabycarrotful Yeah I don't do it much and it's not my preferred method. My problem with plateau sharpening is that it requires the use of a microbevel and honestly even for skilled sharpeners it's hard to get the entire edge to the point it will take the microbevel without forming a burr somewhere and defeating the whole purpose 🤷♂️ I've never quite completely bought the idea it will create a more durable edge but I can understand the reasoning behind it
@@AnarchAngel1 honestly, i use the plateau method because while i can usually keep a flat bevel on a coarse stone, i usually mess up at least once on a finer stone and it irritates me more than it should, so i just tend to avoid it. If im worried about a burr on the microbevel i use a fine-abrasive slurry on a diamond plate. For me atleast, it works really well. If i didnt nearly always screw up on a finer stone though I wouldnt be doing microbevels
@@Jef
Você antes limpa bem a superfície da pedra?
Grato e abraço desde o Brasil!
I've been sharpening knives since I was a kid. I have good hand-eye coordination, so I've never really understood the difficulty in maintaining the angle that some people declare (I trained as a professional pianist, which I think has helped). Is there sufficient money to be made to consider sharpening high grade knives for a second income? Thanks man, love your material!
Honestly i dont know. I sharpen for free. All folks need do is ask and pay for shipping 🤷♂️
Some people can get away with it. Theapostlep is one in particular. A few others have made a name for themselves. Funny thing is, i do it for free, and maybe see, 4-5 knives a yr from viewers.
Take that for what it’s worth
@@Jef Awesome info - thanks for replying Jef. I do my neighbour's knives and it's a great excuse to have them over with a beer as payment. More than happy with that deal as it is 😀
I dont mean to discourage you. It is possible to do. Just like anything, you gotta put in the work. Social media is a big part. Also going around to local restaurants and offering your services. Build up a client base and continue at it 👍
Like your contents, can you make a video twice a week or more?
I used to. It’s alot of work to film and edit. I have tons of old content I’d you are just looking for more.
Hey Jef! Have you ever used the spyderco cbn stone? If so what are your thoughts? Would you recommend something over that spyderco stone?
No but i have several videos using triple b’s cbn. I could never quite get the hang of them. Rather use sic
That stone is $19.99 on Amazon at the moment. What are your thoughts on it? Is it comparable to the other inexpensive combo stones like BearMoo, Sharp Pebble, etc?
I’ve used it 3-4 times and the 240 side has a noticeable gully in center. Price makes it forgivable, along with speed. I haven’t used those other brands so can’t comment on them
Hi Jeff
Is it possible to sharpen k390 steel on naniwa and suehiro stones. I tried to just refine the edge a bit on a new spyderco it was gliding on it like on glass
I haven’t tried it, but my guess is, no. It may work, but it isn’t the ideal abrasive. It feels like glass because it isn’t actually cutting the steel. For k390, sic or diamond, is going to be the best choice.
Hi Jeff
I took the factory edge on the knife with atoma 400 than used it to apex the blade than I went to naniwa 400 / 800 and 3k but i had to use my atoma400 to make slurry on the stones for it to work better .
@@JefI definitely will not attempt that again until my gritomatic arrives. They say lower grits they will have in stock in March sometimes
Do you happen to know where I could purchase some Nubatama whetstones?
Used to from ken schwartz but he passed away. Second hand market is the only way you can find them
Jeff I like to ask a question, if your knife was dull how can you maintain your edge before a full blown sharpening and what stones are you using?
A loaded strop is a good way to keep a knife sharp in between sessions on the stones. I like DMT diamond paste for things like that. The 6 micron stuff will move more material than you would think a strop is capable of if you need to bring an edge back. I like to use the 3 micron then the 1 micron paste if I feel like it just needs a little touch up. Eventually you'll start to round the apex (especially with leather) and you'll need to hit the stones
@@AnarchAngel1 Thanks
As suggested, stropping on leather with compound, is the way I keep my edges going. I personally can't stand diamonds. They are too coarse and can ruin an apex. White compound is much more forgiving.
@@Jef Hmm I've always had good luck with the DMT stuff. I've definitely used other diamond compounds I really didn't like though. I'm not one of those guys who makes dozens of passes with high pressure on thick knappy leather though either. After fine stones lots of times I just use bare horse hide. Maybe I need to be more adventurous in the compound department 😅 because honestly I haven't tried many other ones. What white compound do you prefer?
Thinking about it a little more maybe I don't have issues because I rarely reload my strop 🤔 I'm basically stropping on a very loaded surface so the diamonds aren't cutting like they do when new?
@@Jef Thanks
Hey Jef, I'd like to try stropping on a suede leather for my kitchen knives. The progression would be Norton India coarse/fine, Kunsuto 2000/4000 oil stone then the strop. I've got compounds 2000 grit (red), 5000 Grit (White), green grit (7000) of unknown quality. I'm intrigued by steeldrakes coarse particulate stropping Posts and videos (he used CBN emulsions between 10-30 micron on lather with excellent results) and I see, that you seem to like the white compound, so it's basically between the red and the white for the start. What do your thinks is best to start out? I want smooth push cutting for chopping but not loose all slicing agression on easy to grind steels.
That's alot.
White. All the way. Over diamond or cbn or any other color. White has been the best on EVERY steel. You can over do things and strop out all aggression with white (or any compound for that matter), so i recommend approaching it as close to burr free as possible. That way, you require 10 passes, or less, on each side, to finish the edge. I’ve proven better results, to several users on ig already, who posted bess c tests, with diamond and white. White always won out.
Nice. Thanks alot. And do you have a favorite brand for white compound?
Stropbros.com
You gotta order em all to get the white however. Or buy a strop, and choose white
@@Jef and how much difference in performance did you recognize in different brands? Is there another good one which is more commonly available? I'm living in Germany and ordering compoung from the USA makes it quite expensive.
White compounds ive used all work the same. The difference, i have noticed, is the wax content. Bark river, for example, is very easy to apply, but it had a HIGH wax content. Not even sure it is wax, but thats the feel i get.
Strop bros is kinda difficult to apply, and feels dry. Hard to describe. Regardless, they all seem to work pretty much the same. I havent ever done actual cut testing between them, but in use, i never had complaints
Do you offer sharpening service’s?
Yes
email info is located
czcams.com/users/JefJewellabout
Toothy or polished ?
It’s polished. I don’t understand where folks state the green brick leaves a toothy edge. I didn’t see it.
@@Jef Ahh see I like both 😅
I do too