Knife Sharpening - SPK Shark - Cpm-4v
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2022
- Knife used
Alex Steingraber Performance Knives Shark
Steel Type
CPM-4V
Stones used
Kai AP0509 Combo Stone - 240/1000 grit
Naniwa Aotoshi Green Brick of Joy - 2000 grit (did not cut the steel)
Venev Diamond stone - 7/5 micron - 2500 grit
Basswood Strop with StroppyStuff 1μ diamond compound
The Green Brick wasn't cut out for Cpm steels. I gotta admit, I was really hoping it would surprise me. It's been my experience, most stones that readily release abrasive, are capable of handling such sharpenings. Unfortunately, that wasn't the case.
Alex Steingraber
/ alexsteingraber
StroppyStuff
stroppystuff.com/
nice work. that green brick for sure from the traditional line of soaking stones which is designed to be used primarily on the low alloy steels in Japanese kitchen knives, but also for the wide bevels of traditional Japanese style knives. Leaves a nice scratch free hazy contrasting finish between layers of steel and cladding which is sometimes made out of iron. I mostly use Suehiro stones for that kind of work but I've had great experiences with the traditional Naniwa stones. imo they tend to be harder and slower wearing than the Cerax line stones for instance. Slower cutting for sure but even the lower grits, beyond the 220 at least which is a green sic stone, leaves an extremely fine edge. More well suited to real traditional stuff like white steel laminated with iron. It'll cut basic stainless chromium steels as well but it wouldnt be my first choice.
That shark looks like it's got a wicked grind geometry on it. snazzy little knife.
Gotta try things, to understand what they can, and can not, do.
I actually just started using my cerax stones, for that same hazy finish, you mention. ESP like the look, the 1k leaves, on Japanese knives.
The shark, was a really wicked knife. If i was into fixed blades, I’d own one.
That shark is very nice looking and well shaped.
Thanks for showing the process.
Lots of belly, for such a small knife. It’s been a real handy work knife, for me. I’ve had no real complaints, other than wanting a thicker/wider handle. Even that, is just a nit pick, and wouldn’t deter me from getting one
Always inspiring to watch your videos I end up getting out stones, putting the kme away and getting better results. (Not the kinda results I've received from you but still results)
😁 nothing wrong with the kme. Can get some seriously sharp knives with that booger 👌
I love my SPK Shark in Cruwear and Sasquatch in S60V. Alex's heat treat is so good that sharpening takes no time. That combined with its thin geometry and low edge angle as well 😁
Exactly! The heat treat and geometry is fantastic 👌
That's basically been my experience with the green brick. It is a wonderful finishing stone for softer steels but it has its limits. If you raise a slurry it will do a much better job polishing harder steels. If it is all you have it can get the job done, but if you have other choices you should make use of them.
Right on. Thanks for the feedback. I enjoyed using it, but I don’t see myself buying one.
@@Jef With the knives I see you sharpening I don't really see the point. I use this stone mostly for sharpening the knives of all of my friends with basic steels. This stone will put on a brilliant mirror polish on these knives in no time flat. But I'll tell you what this stone was designed for: traditional Japanese carbon steel kitchen knives. It is the perfect finishing stone for these knives in general purpose use.
Nice Video
🙏 thank you
I've never even thought about trying my green brick on higher carbide steels. Makes sense that it wouldnt work too well though.
I do like it for carbon steels, and stuff like vg-10. A pretty decent finishing stone for that stuff.
I liked it ok but the softness prevents me from buying one. I snow plowed it with a few edges.
@@Jef yeah. Ive definitely done that before with it. I do wish it wasn't so soft for that reason.
I finally managed to buy a 4v Shark too! Should be arriving soon, excited to get my hands on it. I also want to get my hands on a Green Brick too.
Nice score 🤘
This 4v was crazy good in performance. Couldn’t ask for anything better imo.
The soothing "What's happening gang" though🥲
🤣
I like the way the ceramic cuts & feels. Works great on my kitchen knives. I use Silicon Carbide stones for my harder steel spydercos but I don’t like how SC stones build up swarf very fast with almost no slurry
My sic stones work so fast, i barely notice any thing. It’s amazing how you can take 10 people, and give them all the same stones. Yielding 10 varying opinions.
I’ve gotten some of my keenest edges off diamond, followed by ceramics. They are not my favorite stones, but they give excellent results.
I dig that knife!
It's pretty dope. Steel is amazing :)
As always an enjoyable video man. Looking forward to playing around with it, just gotta decide what stones I'm gonna try, maybe the gritomatics.
Try something stupid coarse. Like an 80 grit. See if it can remove those scratches 😁
@@Jef My bench grinder is around 80 grit. 😃
Thanks for sharing Jeff. I always enjoy.
I starting to realize what you said toward
the end about certain knifes in my collection
do better with certain stones. You got that
Grinders Stone on order yet? Cheers!
Yes it’s here. The surface is so glazed it’s pathetic. I’m going to have to condition it before i sharpen anything on it
@@Jef Yes sir. I had to lap mine from the get-go. I didn't mess around I went straight to 30 grit sic. It wasn't completely flat but not bad. I left it at about 60 to 80 grit. Looking forward to your assessment.
Nice. That Kai stone doesn't look half bad, especially for the price they're going for. Surprised but not surprised the Green Brick was that impotent against 4v and m390, weird stone that one 🤔
Yea the price is crazy cheap. I forgot to really talk about that one 😂
@@Jef It looked like it was cutting that powdered metallurgy steel pretty easily. Looks suspiciously similar to stones marketed by companies like Shun for a lot more 💰 I don't know much about them...do you think it's a vitrified stone? Did you mention what hardness he's running that 4v at? Looks like it would be a nice little stone for sharpening folders in the higher tier steels. I'm kinda wondering why the 240 side is thinner than the 1k side though 🤔
Duno the hrc 🤷♂️
The Kai stone is pretty friable. Don’t think it’s vitrified. Most combo stones have one side or the other thicker. They prob assume the 1k will see more use.
@@Jef Yeah I noticed it looked pretty friable, the 240 side at least. That's why I would think it would be the thicker side, it's gonna wear faster but most people probably just jump on the 1k like you said. A lot of coarse stones like the Shapton Pro 220 and 320 are like that. I've found myself looking into cheaper options because I've been doing A LOT of sharpening lately and would like to spare some of my more prized stones. I'm trying to make a business out of it and I've literally been driving to restaurants with my stones and sharpening on site to "prove" my competence. It's working slowly but most the "sharpenings" I'm asked to do are actually pretty significant repair jobs not surprisingly 😅 I'll use the best I have for sushi places etc. but most just want a knife that will actually cut again 😆 I've been surprised by some of the "cheap" stones. King stones get a lot of hate but they aren't bad, I especially like the King Deluxe 300. It's probably more like a 500 but it's actually pretty darn hard, wears slowly and leaves a surprisingly nice edge for a 23 dollar stone of its size. Doesn't need a soak either. One of those stones out there I think people sleep on, I don't really have anything bad to say about that one
Get yourself norton crystolon coarse for repairs. Cheap and fast
Do you mind my asking what you do for work? It seems pretty cool to be able to get some solid knife use in whilst at work. It’s also a good way to test and try the capabilities of your knives.
I do apologise if you have mentioned already. Take care, and thank you for the interesting videos👌
I work for a cable/telephone/internet provider. Like Comcast.
Here’s a quick video showing some of the work i do
Mudd Knife in action
czcams.com/video/pLkpd63RBJ0/video.html
@@Jef I actually saw that video, I just couldn’t find it on your list of videos. My bad.
Anyway, nice little knife, and thank you for giving this awesome insight into what knife steel has what capabilities.
I find it very helpful as someone who is interested in buying decent user knives. Keep the video’s coming👍
Took a good edge mate. And the aotoshi wont do my magnacut blades either hehe
lol yea if it won’t cut m390, Magnacut doesn’t stand a chance
@@Jef jupp if i had the money id buy a gritomatic set
👍
🤘
Hey Jef-- What stone do you recommend for sharpening D2? The knives I make are forged from simple high carbon steels (1084 and O1 tool steel) and this D2 is giving me fits. I've been working on a buddy's hunting knives in D2 with a Shapton Pro 1000 and having only marginal success. The knife is sharper than before, but not nearly to my standards. Any tips you can share will be appreciated. Thanks, Forrest ---- BTW, I love the Green Brick, but I use it as a splash & go and mainly for it's polishing effect.
D2 used to be the same for me. I always had issues sharpening it. Honestly, gritomatic sic stones, are my go to set. If you don’t have them, diamond. If those are not available, shapton can get the job done, but you need to start coarser than 1k. 320, or even 120, is where id start
@@Jef Thanks, Jef! Looks like I need to invest in some new stones!!!
Found out about edge geometry when I bought Benchmade Puukko in 3V (new harder version 60HRC), way too thick behind the edge, terrible in the wood. Why so thick specially in 3V.
Lionsteel B41 in sleippner, awesome geometry, lesser steel 10 times better in the wood. M4 in M390, thick as Puukko, maybe even thicker.
Understand why they went thick with "bushcraft" fixed blade in M390, for normal use, not "youtube bushcraft knife tests" use, thin M390 would do just fine, 3V would kick butt, why Benchmade did this idk.
Cheers!
Yea, the decisions they make on geometry is always going to err on too thick. They think we are using our blades as pry bars. I’m sure there are those that do, but most, who spend over a $100 on a blade, know better. I just can’t believe they are getting so many broken knives, to justify, the way they grind. However, I’m not in the biz, so what do i know? 🤷♂️😁
@@Jef I tell you, it's because of YT "extreme test" videos, they are crazy 😅 exactly, no sane person does that with 100, 200, 500+ $ knives. Buy BK2 and enjoy prying out every knot in the dead wood you find in the forest 😄
A question if you please, I have Naniwa pro (think before it was chosera series, like your green brick) 1000, 3000 stones, would you sharpen a normal dull Manix in maxamet on them? I have Edge Pro Apex with 180-4000 matrix stones, but I'd rather better my whetstone moves. If you didn't had any other stones, would you go with Naniwa on Spyco Maxamet? Np if it just takes longer time. Thank you in advance man, cheers!
Those extreme videos are fun to watch but yea. Crazy shyt!
Maxamet is one of the only steels you truly can not sharpen on alumoxide stones. It requires diamonds (400 grit and higher) or silicone carbide. Anything else and the apex brittles up and breaks. Its a crazy phenomenon. Even coarse 140 diamond causes it.
Grab yourself some venev resin, or gritomatic sic stones. Otherwise, it is going to be a disappointment to sharpen.
@@Jef Speaking of the Gritomatic stones Jef, do you have any favorites or suggestions were I to scrounge up the money to grab some? I don't deal with too many steels my other stones can't handle but I do want something to deal with steels like Maxamet when I have to. Based on your experience with them what progression would you recommend? I was thinking 240-1k-2500?
Yes. 240-1k-2.5k 👌