Saving a Roland JV-80 Keyboard from the Red Glue from Hell
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- čas přidán 15. 07. 2024
- Many Roland keyboards from the 90s contain a type of red glue which starts to migrate with time and can make the keyboard ugly or unusable. In this video I show how I completely removed the horrible red glue from my Roland JV-80.
JV-80 service manual: www.polynominal.com/roland-jv8...
Shoutout to Abom79 for spiritual support: / @abom79 - Jak na to + styl
I am in the process of doing this exact repair to an XP80. If you have a freezer big enough I found it was better to remove the keys and freeze the metal base overnight. The globs of glue came off on chunks and left little to no residue. Just a tip for the future. Thanks for the video!
You're right. I just found a few dribbles of it on the underside of my JV-80 keys. I don't think it was ever runny but instead is sort of like thick tree sap. My studio was a little cooler than the rest of my house and I was able to flick a couple of the streams right off clean. However if I tried to wipe it with something it would smear and become a real mess. Also just like he mentions in the video, it likes to stick to itself.
Roland made a HUGE mistake with that glue.
My tips for this process:
0. Recommend several scrubbing tools, especially get one that can fit inside the black keys and something with stiff bristles that will be able to get into the crevices.
1. Heat is what helps get the weights out of the keys, because the drain cleaner get under the weights. I used a large pot with just water heated to below boiling but very hot. I used a larger pot underneath the main pot to get a double boiler setup so the keys werent directly exposed to the heating filiament.
2. Do yourself a favor and use a grinder wheel on a dremel tool make a hook from an old flathead. This tip cant be overstated.
3. Be careful pulling the weights, especially be careful with pressure, only pull UP dont bend the plastic OUT.
4. Drop the weights into the hot water and set aside the keys. At this point the solution is just water and this will reduce corrosion of the metal.
5. When only weights remain, add the drain cleaner. Give a few minutes and then one by clean the metal and move them to a cold water bath so they spend little time in the solution.
6. Bring back in all the keys and clean them, placing clean ones into the cold water bath.
7. Finally wash and set each item into a container for drying. Examine each piece at this time and if needed drop back into solution for touchups. The glue can be stubborn. Dry immediately.
Having suffered the glue from hell for a couple of years on my xp80 I decided to go for it. I was left with no choice really, it was becoming unplayable. Everything went to plan and now the keyboard plays great without two notes with one finger :) .The only thing that held me up was putting the key springs back, until I realized that you have to attach both ends of the spring first.
The plastic strip stuck back without problem. I was very nevous to undertake this job but after studying your film I convinced myself I could do it.
Thank you very much for making this film.
Thanks for this video - I had to apologise to my kid tonight - his Roland EP7-II started having sticky keys. I was insinuating he was less than careful with a bowl of something sugary, turned out it was a chemist who was less than careful. Opened it to find a blob of red stuff on the backplate, but fortunately the electronics are fine.
Thanks for taking the time to document this, seems I’ve got a job for the weekend now.
My old Roland keyboard is absolutely caked with pink glue, it’s bad, I’m starting the process of cleaning but it feels like an impossible project and the more I clean the more is revealed. Wish me luck boys
Nobody but you saw this comment but I did it. It sucked but it was totally worth it and possible, if anyone else has this issue I recommend using something to scrape off the majority of glue and isopropyl alcohol to wipe off the rest. Be careful not to use too much or leave it on because I think it degrades the plastic.
you should contact rick waleman as in interview he is on record of saying that he is looking for some one to fix the red glue problem on his JD800. which he loves
Great video! Thankyou Edwin for this nice demonstration.
Excellent! The take away message is that caustic soda (the active ingredient in the Mellerud Rohrfrei) can be used to get rid of the red glue.
My respect for such a nice work of restauration. You love your instrument.
Thank you. Just got mine out of storage and all the black keys were stuck.I followed your video and it certainly helped. I found the keys withstood boiling water so a a 30 second soak in plain boiling water allowed me to remove the weights and get rid of most of the glue quickly. further soaking in drain cleaner solution finished the job off.I used an acrylic adhesive which was a bit easier and less messy than epoxy. All done in a day and working like new!
I'm about to undertake this on my JV80, which has been in storage for about 18 years... John, how did you deal with the stopper strip? That's about the only step in the process that I fear.
@@tdm1995
Simply gently warmed it with a hairdryer and peeled it off. Adhesive strip stayed pretty much intact. Pressed it back on afterwards and all was fine.
@@johndove9776 thanks John!! I will be undertaking this project. :-)
Last summer I decided I was going to "attack" the stuck keys on ,y jv-1000, which is essentially the same as the jv-80. I identified the keys that were causing issues ( not all were sticking ) and removed as much of the glue as possible. I aslo had to apply graphite to some of the contacts as some notes were not triggering. I got to where the keyboard was functioning. I had it in a spare bedroom and kept if covered. I went to move it recently to another location and found the stuck keys had deteriorated more than I imagined. Seem that in the room it was in, it was about 3-4 feet from a radiator. Some keys dropped the weights and can't be depressed at all. What a travesty. I have no choice now but to remove all the keys and get rid of this dammed friggin glue. Yes the KB is very old now but I can't believe Roland wasn't ever aware of this because surely they had to have used this glue years before they marketed the jv series of keyboards
Massive Thumbs Up 👍 I really appreciate your commitment to helping us who have suffered from this issue 🙏❤️🏴
Just started the same repair on my Roland EP 9. This video was very helpful. Thank you.
What drain cleaner did you use? Did you try Lye?
This is EXACTLY what happened to my old XP-80, but I'm too nervous to take it apart. Great video!
11:15 Funny: When you play these things there never seems to be enough keys.
awesome work of love and patience
I like your instructions - clear and precise.
“What a satisfying sound, almost like cracking oysters”…. Priceless.
I have a keyboard to clean.
I’m considering silicon sealant for the weights.
6:34 had to endure much patience a few years ago when doing this exact thing to my JV-80 upon removing the keys and also being very delicate not to wreck anything else. It was a great satisfying weekend project.
Took me a couple days to open, disassemble, pry the weights...clean, reassamble this synth!
Thanx for your invaluable help! Roland doesn’t support these problems any longer, but your step to step guide was of great help in solving the red glue problem. Even though I own a Roland XP80, but things are similar. I did however glue back the stopper… doublesided adhesive tape didn’t work.
I hope I’ll have some fun on my XP80 for at least another 10 years… I love workstations with onboard sequencers…
Old fashioned guy, I know.
Thanks again!!
I still got my JV80 standing horizontally, and some of the weights are showing lying on the chassis below the keys (and being glued to the chassis, lying in red goo).
I really need a few days to tackle this problem, loved the synth...
Thanks a lot for the detailed instructions on the disassembly, very helpful.
Great job , thank you for sharing.👍
Thank You so much for this video! It helped me a lot with keybed of JD-800.
I am in the process of doing this to a Roland XP-80. All the weights are removed and getting ready to glue the weights back into the keys. I let the keys soak in the lye solution for > 24 hours and almost all of them fell off on their own - only a few needed a little prying. Great video and you have a lot of patience!!!
Thanks so much for making this, now i know why one of my Jv-80’s keyboard key is jammed up so bad lol.. Looks like quite the undertaking to clean and replace all this awful red glue!
thanx for the heart edwin. cheers.
Thank you so much for the video.
Now getting my jv 80 through the same treatment.
I suspected (unspoken) some child of spilling a soft drink in the keyboard! Have to eat humble-pie 😂
Great video. I've been putting off for a number of years now "doin' d glue" on my Roland JV1000. Same problem . . more keys. At the moment, the JV1000 is bubble wrapped and laying flat, upside down to avoid the Red Death dripping into the inner workings. However, I thought I'd share a "temporary fix" I did a few years ago on my JV80 that is still holding good upto now. Upon the first sign of the red glue, I stripped the JV80 down to being able to access the underside of the keys . . cleaned off all the wayward red glue and then carefully painted over all the keyboard weights on/in the keys with a clear nail varnish. I was just hoping to delay the on-set of a major melt down. The theory being that is would form a protective seal/barrier and hold the glue at bay. It worked .. and that was over 11 years ago and the JV80 is still going strong. Cheers for a great vid.
I have been putting off doing the BIG JOB until I retire. I did something real stupid the last time I had the keyboard out. Without going the "caustic lye" route, I clean off as much residue as possible so that the synth was very playable. I then moved it to another location in a room NEAR A RADIATOR.. ARGGGGGGGG .. about 15 of the upper keys were stuck and it's a good thing I didn't force the keys because this time, the weights actually came loose and were blocking the keys from being depressed. Soon I will take it out again and clean the residual glue and reattach the loose weights but I think I will try your method.I'm assuming that you just applied the varnish around the weight itself and not the entire underside of each key.
Please post your "Buy me a coffee" link, you gave me the confidence to take this on and I really appreciate it.
Great news. By following this great instructional video I now have a fully functioning and very clean Roland JV 1000
While I was playing the KB, I suddenly heard this significant humming, I changed outlets, no extension cords and after a time, the humming came back. Now there is a very slight hum when powering it up from the transformer but nothing could explain the louder hum after about 10-15 min of use. So I investigated. Some people said that the transformer's blades could be vibrating but the trans is encased in varnish to prevent that. Some said that maybe the electrolytic capacitors were possibly blown due to the age but when I checked them visually, they look pristine so when the loud hum returned, I flipped over the KB and removed that cover and suddenly the hum went back to the normal hum from the trans .. hmmm could it be that the cover was vibrating? Well yes because two of the screws that secure the cover attach to the frame of the PSB and they may have been slightly loose. To make things better, I placed some small pieces of rubberized tape along the edges of the PSB frame to isolate it from the back cover. Cover back on and no loud humming since, but I will keep my fingers crosses that was the problem and not the trans or caps 🙂
Thanks, great video! Also, I bought a box of those plastic shrink-wraps you use to cover windows...to keep your house from being so drafty. It just happen to have the exact kind of double sided tape needed for the black strip. In case people don't want to drill into their boards. 👍 And Goof-off and a razor blade took the original glue strip off quite well. Have fun people! :)
Roland gave me a whole new key bed for free in 2014 for my, then 21 years old, JV-1000. I only payed € 30,- on labour to have it exchanged for the old one. Saved me a lot of hassle.
Hallo Edwin, sehr großen Respekt vor Deiner Beschreibung. Du hast Dir sehr viel Mühe gegeben, wie ich es sehe. Mir wurde ein solcher Synthesizer angeboten - bin noch skeptisch mich daran zu versuchen, obwohl ich schon einiges an Computern auseinander und wieder zusammengefügt habe. Nun ja, Ehre dem, dem Ehre gebührt. Grüße Heiko
Nice... I have a Roland XP80 which shares the same 'ugly' misfortune.. I appreciated your video and the detail you went to in resolving your issue..
Now.... of to the store for Drain Cleaner.. ;)
watch out for 'down the drain';-)
Wonderful and scary… but I fear that mine is in dire need of this treatment 😢
yo, that crap was a legitimate jumpscare lol 30 seconds in.
Thanks for the vid. It was helpful for sure. That red glue sure is a sticky mess.
Excelente TUTORIAL DE SERVICIO , TENGO Un Roland JV-80 y hoy appendix COMO Es UN Servicio de este Legendario Teclado, me gustaria la Traduccion al Español , Muchas gracias POR dedicar su tiempo y obsequiarnos este tutorial, Felicidades
Omg thank god someone else had this problem
You're not going to hurt those rubber dome switches with that vacuum brush. :)
I'm going to try this on my Roland Xp-80. Until now I had no idea how to remove that dreaded red glue.
Good luck with the restoration! You might also want to read the other comments as they contain some useful tips.
The thing I'm most worried about is the aftertouch strip. Removing it without damaging it is going to be troublesome. You mentioned some hard to find glue to reapply it. Can you tell me what it is?
The aftertouch strip is actually not a problem, it just stays where it is (at least on the JV-80). You are probably thinking about the stopper strip, which is just a strip of plastic keeping the keys from sliding forward (towards the player) and from coming out of their hinges. According to comments people had luck with just heating the stopper strip and pulling it off carefully and later reapplying it, reusing the existing adhesive tape. The tape used in the JV-80 is "Nitto Nr. 501" according to the service manual. I did not find this exact one online but I think it is similar to current Nitto Nr. 5010P www.nitto.com/eu/en/products/double/078/ . It is simply a thin strip of polyester with acrylic adhesive on both sides. It bonds well to the (probably) polystyrene of the strip and *extremely* well to metal.
Ive done similar on several keyboards now and I found it most expediant to just seal the red shit in with epoxy after I clean up any goo....
Wow, was eine Arbeit. Sehr cool! Mal schauen, ob mein JD800 auch irgendwann dran ist... :-)
Danke für das Video. Ich hatte erst gedacht, der Vorbesitzer hätte den JV-80 mit Erdbeermarmelade misshandelt. (Wenngleich ich mir das mit dem Kleber schon dachte, da ein Gewicht sogar schon ganz von der Taste gefallen war ...)
(Thank you for this video. I thought, anybody had treatet the JV-80 with strawberry jam. Now I know it was the old glue. :) )
I’m in, this has happened to me with devastating effects 😢
Diving in...here goes nothing
I should have watched this video before. I considered using caustic soda too to remove the red glue from Hell but I feared it would damage the plastic.
Finally, I removed it using a razor blade and covered it using mastic so it won't leak again. Using a har dryer is helpful to remove the weights.
Great video. Thank you for making it. I usually just separate the keys on my U20 before a gig (I love the piano and rhodes sounds) with a piece of stiff card but I really need to knuckle down and follow your advice. I've used cream cleaner (Jiff or Ciff as it's now called) to do a few keys recently and that's worked pretty well but I think 'bathing' them in a large amount of liquid as you suggest is better and more time efficient. One question: Some of the metal on the keys on my U20 came off years ago and I can't honestly say that on the many occasions I've played it since, I've really noticed any difference between them and the ones that still have the metal attached. Is it really necessary to have the metal weights at all? BTW, I too didn't bother refitting the stopper strip as it seemed unnecessary and hasn't been a problem subsequently. Thanks again for the vid.
You did a wonderful job of explaining how to perform this godforsaken, unpleasant and tedious task. I smugly thought that this was only a JD-80 problem. ;-(. The summer got to mine and i have 2 spots of glue on the keyboard below the jv-80 which i found to be horrible enuf, but worse yet i have one key on the JV-80 that is frozen solid now that it's cold outside. so sux. i am pondering using a heat gun to see if i can melt the glue a bit by warming the key from the top and then if it works loose then i'll just repeatedly play an arpeggio on the key and it's neightbors until the glue cools.....hopefully cooling in a way that things stay unstuck.
Just be careful when applying heat directly to the keys. I don't know how much they can take. I wouldn't recommend anything above ~70° Celsius.
I like your Silicone grease idea- my keys stick when UP and first depressed..
Yes that glue is truly from hell 😂
Thanks for the vid, I was able to save my JV-1000. I was driving home and someone left the roland on the side of the road because of the glue
For Dutch readers, I have used HG gootsteenontstopper to remove the red glue from the keys (let it stay in overnight) and glued the weights with Bison kit transparant contact glue.
I can't find his drain cleaner where I live in California, I read that high concentrations of lye an have even a higher pH than he used so I'm going to try lye. I'll look for the Biscon glue, thanks.
Ya le di Like y me suscribi,
I used caustic soda dissolved in a bucket of water to get rid of the glue on my U20 etc never found a good glue to put the weights back on.
On my JD800 I bought new keys from Roland at about £100, well worth it IMHO.
GAH! I'm having a go with a kr-650. The amplifier board doesn't work but the midi is ok for DAW. Hopefully the keys are nice once the red goo is gone 😅
cleaning mine now. i let someone borrow it and they left it in the hot car. all the red glue got all over the keys. yuck.. thanks for this video.
Great video, and thorough explanation for every step. Thank you.
I assume you didn't have any of the red glue on your electronics, but do you have any thought on how to remove those?
I got this ep-9 for my daughter and the red glue is literally everywhere (over half of the plate were out of the keys), including over and other the boards. I cleaned the keys per your instruction, no problem. Next I'm gonna tackle the metal tray and plastic walls, but still have no idea how to go for the boards, and would appreciate any advice.
Thanks. I don't have experience with removing the stuff from electronics. All I can say is DONT use any alkaline cleaner like sodium hydroxide on the electronics! While these chemicals are perfectly fine for the plastic keys, they are highly corrosive to metals and are highly likely to destroy traces on circuit boards and electronic components.
The usual suggestion for cleaning electronics is isopropyl alcohol (IPA) but that will probably not have any effect on the horrible red stuff. As long as the red glue does not pose any functional danger to the electronics, I would probably leave it there. (e.g. Danger would be if it is going to run into keyboard switches, other contacts, or faders.) If it is running into bad places, you could try to remove (most of) it mechanically.
P.S.: If you are desperate to remove the stuff, another commenter had luck with freezing parts so that the glue comes off more easily. Normally, electronics should survive non-extreme freezing, though I cannot guarantee that they will. In any case, you would have to make sure that the electronics are *completely* dried afterwards before powering them again! Definitely DONT heat the electronics. If in doubt, I would err on the side of leaving the glue on the electronics.
I'm curious about that key after touch strip. Does that strip also inhibit the sound when you let go of the key or are there individual felt pads for each key that do this? I had the Roland authorized service center replace a broken key about 20 years ago. When I got it back the new key was quiet but many of the other keys were still making a lot of noise (when released).
Me podría decir cuales son los líquidos para quitar el pegamento ya que lo hice con agua caliente y se empeoro mas
I need to do this to my JV80
Sar 60 ki rubber we read service aur dikhayen
Thanks for the instructions. I am following your steps and want to know the process of putting the keys back. I didnt take the picture of the key assembly and I want to know what G12 or A11 means. Is there any chart that gives me the diagram which explain which keys goes where ? Also, I see I have 2 weight missing. Any place I can get that from ? Thanks for your help.
I don't have a formal reference but here are some oversharpened pictures from my JV-80 keyboard where you can see the sequence of the keys if you zoom in at the top: www.dropbox.com/sh/avrwnit07zilvm1/AABMq66NzamAsftdS9PQFvrna?dl=0
If a key is called "CF" it seems to mean it works as a C or an F key, etc. The numbers seemed to be in no particular order on my keyboard. I put them back as they were before.
For the weights: I don't know how to get exact replacements. I would just weight some you have and get metal parts of similar weight and shape from somewhere. I don't think it is critical. I know people order a lot of metal parts from mcmaster.com, for example. But I think even some scrap metal will do as long as it is the right weight and placed approximately right.
I found this video quite sometime ago, but thought that it might be to difficult to go thru all of this effort. What I failed to understand was the fact that the glue was being used to hold the weights in place, so no matter how many times I disassembled the synth ( JV-1000 ), over time, depending on where I had it set up ( like next to a radiator )... I noticed that the weights were actually dropping down preventing me to press on a key because it was jammed. I hate just keeping this synth boxed and away ... out of site out of mine. I am going to attempt this fix now that I can dedicate the time. Can you tell me what solution that is similar to the one you used as I am in the US ands not familiar with the brand of cleaner you used. Once again, great helpful video - thanks!
I don't know the US market but you should also be able to buy pure sodium hydroxide (also called "caustic soda" or "lye"), something like this:
www.amazon.com/FDC-99-Pure-Sodium-Hydroxide/dp/B013KMNCJU
or this:
www.amazon.com/Instant-Power-Crystal-Drain-Opener/dp/B07MQBT4HS
Please protect your eyes and hands when handling this stuff. If you get it in powder form, mix slowly with cold water because it will heat up when mixing, only *then* add hot water if it is not warm enough yet.
Ugh, I have a D-70 suffering from red glue gunk up. Can't decide if I want to attempt a cleaning or not.
Thanks for sharing. I want to repair my JV 80. The repairmen in my city just don't to do the job! I see that much time and knowledge is needed. And I am a little afraid of using toxic substances.
You can avoid dangerous substances. According to comments even hot water may be enough to loosen the glue. I suspect that hot water combined with some alkaline detergent could work quite well if you have enough patience.
@@EdwinSteiner Thanks for your suggestion! I have already started disassembling the JV 80. I tested the electronics and it works. I didn't start with the glue yet. I bought the pipe cleaner, the new glue and the WD 40. Could not find the silicón Grease yet. But I do not understand the necessity of drilling holes and the 6 mm tape. Shouldn't it be enough to glue it? Or just use another similar tape? What is the issue with the tape?
Hi Eduardo! I suggest that you skip the drilling part unless you feel very comfortable with small metal working jobs. I just did it this way because I don't like gluing stuff together and I wanted a solution that allows for easily removing the stopper strip again if necessary.
I suggest that you 1.) try (carefully!) heating the stopper strip with a hair dryer, for example, and try to pull it off leaving the adhesive tape intact so you can later simply stick the strip back on (this worked for someone who commented on my video). 2.) If that does not work, clean the strip like I did and replace the adhesive tape with some new double-sided acrylic adhesive tape, either the Nitto I mentioned in another comment or any other that you can get. I don't think it matters a lot.
@@EdwinSteiner Hi Edwin, thank you so much! Your video is super, great!!!! I finally managed to clean the keys. I took the precaution of taking note of each key's code, and their relative position, in order to get them back into the right place. All black keys lost their weights, but 5 white keys have their weights still stuck. I don't know how to get them off. Any suggestions? The keys are very delicate. I am afraid of breaking them.
@@eduardofracassi3113 Well done! For getting the weights off, what seems to help is a combination of: time, high temperature, high pH value (alkaline). I'd try to soak the keys in hot (say 70°C) drain cleaner solution for a day. People also had success simply boiling keys in plain water (I'd still be careful about such high temperatures) or letting them soak in non-hot drain cleaner for a few days. It may also help to pull the weights out with a little hook as I did but don't lever the tool over the plastic! Normally patience is all that is needed. If they really won't come out, you can still use new epoxy over the old one to seal it permanently.
Great video, thank you for a very thorough job.
I disassembled my JV-80 and it has this problem really bad!
I read that lye can have a very high pH in high concentrations, will lye dissolve this glue?
Also a few of my keys don't work, is it possible glue got into the switches? Should I remove the ct. board and clean all of those contacts? Do you have any advice on doing that?
And what kind of epoxy did you use?
Thanks again. Cheers from California
yes, lye will probably work well. just give it enough time to dissolve the glue.
some keys not working is likely due to oxidation or dirt in the switches, not the glue. i had some dead keys before and i could fix them by disassembling and cleaning the contacts *very carefully* with isopropyl alcohol and lightly rotating an eraser head of a pencil on the contacts and then dusting off.
@@EdwinSteiner Thank you very much Edwin. I'll pull the circuit board and do the cleaning as you described. I really appreciate your work here. Cheers.
@@EdwinSteiner LYE UPDATE: I highly recommend Lye, I had read that it can have a pH of 12-14 in high concentrations, so I bought 100% lye crystals, mixed a strong concentration: about 1/3 cup (80mL) of crystals in about 1/2 gallon (1900 mL) water and let it sit for about 18 hours, the weights either had fallen out or fell out of 20 of the white keys and 3 of the black keys with no prying, and no visible red glue on them. 2 more white key weights pried out easily. I'm letting the rest sit in a new equally strong solution for another 24 hours or so.
@@EdwinSteiner Lye Update 2 : After a 2nd soak of 12 hours all of the weights either fell out on their own or came out very easily with light prying using a dental pick. So for anyone whe can't find the drain cleaner he used or can't find the pH of common drain cleaners (I couldn't) I recommend lye. Of course you'll want gloves and eye protection.
I had the JV80. The problem at the time I didn’t know what to do with that problem on those years. The glue went to the electronics. Lost it.
Sorry to hear that. Some engineers(?) in the 80s caused quite a lot of grief by picking the wrong glue :-/.
Edwin Steiner ...yeah, and that was my most beloved one. Nice sounds still.
Edwin Steiner Still, I’m concerned with KORG KROME and KORG KROSS 2. Both have glued weights too. Still I’m making a search if there’s a problem with those. Nice video.
It seems a common problem with Roland synths.
Hi. Could you be so kind as to tell me what the active ingredients are in "Mellerud Rohr Frei"
I'm in South Africa and want to get something equivalent locally.
Thanks
Hi! The only ingredient you need is sodium hydroxide (lye), plus warm water and patience. The longer you leave the keys in there, the easier the job. It does not affect the keys at all but the lye may be corrosive to the metal weights, so if you care about them, you may check on them now and then.
I'm like 50 hours invested now on my po' ole XP80 that had goo EVERYWHERE. I have most of it cleaned up, but the damage to the sensitive rubber key strips and board contacts seem to be preventing some keys from working. How do you clean up the board and strip contacts?
Did you find a way to clean the board? I'm also having the same problem.
I've always hated weighted keys and have never owned one. Now even more reason to not ever.
thanks sir.what is the liquid chemical you used to remove the glue??
It was an off-the-shelf drain pipe cleaner. I think the only really important property is that it is highly alkaline. The product I used is based on caustic soda (sodium hydroxide).
Do you think that just heating (with hot air pulsed from the Upper side of the keyboard) could be ok ? I only have 4 keys that are not moving well
Heat will make the glue less viscous, so more liquid. It might help you to get a key unstuck but it won't remove the mess. It might even increase the mess by making more of the glue start to move out from under the weight plates. The great thing about the drain cleaner method is that it dissolves the glue so that it's really gone.
Hello Edwin! I was triying to cleanup the keys of my JV-80, after the cleaning it can not turn on. the screen is just turning on without showing anything, and the keyboard is not working. how do I get it to turn on please?
Hello Ralph! That is unusual and normally cannot be caused just by working on the keyboard. Even if you should have forgotten to reconnect the keyboard, the JV-80 would start normally (with keys not working). I think it is most likely that you accidentally disconnected or damaged one of the connections between the electronics boards in the JV-80 when you disassembled and reassembled it. Make sure all these connections look right and no cables are pinched, etc. Do you get any sound out of the instrument? (If yes, the problem may only be something about the display. If not, there are lots of things that could cause the problem.)
Thanks so much! (And how did life ever even exist before CZcams?)
Hi guys, not sure if Roland still replaces the whole key assembly due to this issue (I was not the original owner). I contacted Roland years ago (well out of warranty) and they advised that if I take it to an authorized repair facility, they will supply a complete new key assembly (updated black adhesive) free of charge to the repair facility. All I paid for was the labor to remove the old key assembly and install the new one ($100). It's might be worth a try??
I don't see anything on Roland's support that has anything to do with replacing the keyboard assembly. I think it's something they will no longer support under any conditions. I think a suit should have been brought against Roland for such shotty work. I will attempt to repair my JV1000 myself. I have disassembled it numerous times that it's a no brainer for me. I actually disassembled it today. Cleaned the metal apparatus of any trace of glue and put all the keys aside. As soon as the weather gets a bit warmer I will do the "soak" outdoors and hopefully be rid of that shitty red glue for good
HG gootsteenontstopper does the job!
Dankje Rob, ik heb een XP-80 met hetzelfde probleem, jij hebt ervaring al?
@@PaulWalraven Ja, Gewoon alle toetsen met de gewichten onderdompelen in HG Gootsteenontstopper, een nacht laten staan en dan is die rode lijm losgelaten van toetsen en gewichten. Dan alles goed spoelen en daarna met bison kit die gewichten weer aan de toetsen lijmen. De gewichtjes in de zwarte toetsen hebben soms wat hulp nodig om los te laten (met een kleine schroevendraaier) , maar in principe zouden ze uit zichzelf los moeten laten
How long did you leave it in the bath with the Mellerud?
I don't remember, probably 1-2 hours or so. The longer the better. I probably was too impatient. Some people got good results by leaving it overnight or even for a couple of days in there, then the weights drop out by themselves. It could corrode the metal weights a bit. If you worry about that, someone suggested first using only warm water to soften the glue, then remove the weights, then use the drain cleaner to get rid of the glue on the keys.
Breaux custom concrete
this happened to me, had to hand scrape it with a lino knife
I have a jv80 but it's dead but it's not red glue. I think it's been fixed. ❤
I fixed mine years ago using laundry powder and I didn't bother reinstalling that stopper strip.
Yes, as long as you don't pull the keys, the stopper strip is not strictly needed as the springs hold the keys back. Nice minimalist solution!
I have about 5 malfunction keys on my JD800, can i do the same just on those keys?
Hi! You can certainly do it for only a few keys if you like and if the glue is really the problem. However, if some keys play no notes or always play loudest (highest velocity), it is more likely that the key switches are the problem. Unfortunately I don't have key switch refurbishing on video, but here is a quick howto (sorry for the format, I copy&pasted this from an email I sent a while ago):
What you need:
Q-tips or microfiber cloth
pencil with a clean eraser head
small quantity of isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol). (Seems harder to get due to the pandemic as it is also a disinfectant.) e.g. www.amazon.com/Viva-Doria-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Rubbing/dp/B08NCZ5BPB
How to do it:
Disassemble the keyboard as shown in the video but additionally unscrew the brown circuit boards covering the keyboard switches.
Separate the soft rubber domes of the keyboard switches from the contacts on the circuit board. (Take note of the placing and orientation so you can reassemble them correctly afterwards.)
Blow away any dust from all parts.
*Gently* wipe both the conductive (darker) pads of the rubber parts and the contacts on the board with isopropanol.
*Very gently* rotate the eraser head of the pencil on the contacts. The eraser acts as a light abrasive, removing dirt or oxidation from the contacts.
Wipe the contacts again with isopropanol.
Let dry and reassemble.
If some keys still don't work, you may have to repeat the steps for them. Better to do it twice than to be too aggressive and damage the switches the first time.
@@EdwinSteiner Thanx for your fast reaction bro! I'll definitely will check that out one time. The JD800 is under my bed for 10 years now, lol. Maybe i sell it or use it again. I see high prices for that thing as it's a collectors item ;-)
One question: if the JV 80 was always horizontal on its stand, is there any chance that the red glue could get inside? Is it necessary to open the keyboard? Can I simply clean the keys and apply a different glue to the weights? In this case the risk of damaging the circuits would be less! What do you think?
Hi Eduardo! The chance is low but not zero, I'd say. The white keys will probably not cause problems since the glue in them will simply drop down onto the inside of the case. The glue from the black keys could drop down inside the instrument but most of the surface under the keys is closed. You'd have to be very unlucky for it to cause real damage but I cannot rule it out. If some keys don't work, the reason is more likely that the key switches need refurbishing as they did on my JV-80. (Unfortunately I do not have that on video.) The simplest version of the repair is to seal the keys with new epoxy over the old glue as suggested in some comments. I don't think you can clean the keys without disassembling the keyboard. Disassembling is easy but a bit time-consuming. Reassembling is also not difficult. The main hurdle is the stopper strip. Some people had luck with pulling the strip off with heat and simply reapplying it to the existing glue later.
I had my JV-80 in a keyboard stand with the keys tilted down at a moderate angle. The current condition of the instrument is that all of the black keys cannot be depressed. There are a few of the white keys that can be pressed but they do not create any sound. I think at some point after the glue issue started some of the white keys would sound and maybe the black keys were working. Thanks to this video, I may attempt to open up the keyboard to see what is going on. I do not think you can get to the weights/glue in the black keys without opening up the instrument.
@@rjones1357 After successfuly finishing the job, I must say that opening and cleaning everything is the best option. The JV80 works!!!!
I'm going to have to do this to my JV-80 - hence why I watched this video. The topmost E flat and A flat keys are stuck every time I go to play it. I can free them up by wiggling them, but it needs a more permanent fix.
Good luck! Consider checking the comments for tips and experiences from multiple people.
@@EdwinSteiner I certainly did!
ive been trying to save a jv80 from this glue, im having trouble getting the weights out specifically in the black keys. what tool did you use for them that hook tool or a pliers?
Hi Marcus! I used a small old screwdriver into which I ground a little hook at the tip using a Dremel. It is briefly shown in the video. The hook has the advantage that you can pull on the weights without levering the tool over the plastic, potentially damaging the key. That said, a long (hours to days!) soaking time in warm draincleaner (or just caustic soda) solution is your best bet for getting the weights out.
@@EdwinSteiner hey thank you so much for the response! i will try soaking them in different draino this time, last time it just made the red glue barley move able. i just dont want to damage the weights or keys by using too much pressure
@@couchfromcraigslist9230 Yes, you should not have to yank brutally on the weights. Just a firm gentle pulling to overcome the suction of the glue should suffice. Some people reported the weights falling out by themselves after very long soaking. Be sure to use caustic soda or a drain cleaner based on it (should say "contains sodium hydroxide"). Use a high concentration, it does not harm the keys at all. Use very warm/slightly hot water (unless when mixing with dry sodium hydroxide!). Good luck!
@@couchfromcraigslist9230 You're probably done now but its heat you need to get those weights out! See my other comment on this video for some tips, or in case anyone else sees this video! Thanks Edwin, this video was a huge help!
My XP-80 was manufactured in 1986. Is it likely to have this glue issue?
I don't know the exact range of years when this bad glue was used. I read somewhere that it was used in the 90s. If by now you don't see any red droplets under the keys, you're probably fine.
Your XP-80 100% wasnt manufactured in 1986 because it was released in 1996. And "Yes" also the XP series have the glue problem.
Oops! I meant 1996. Thankfully, it has no glue issues so far. My Rodgers organ does, though. Rodgers was owned by Roland when the organ was made so it makes sense.
I have a roland jv-1000 with this exact issue, I just hope it isn't too late for me to fix it...it already had some dead keys. Wish me luck
Hi nate! Dead keys could also be an issue unrelated to the red glue. I had some dead keys on my JV-80 that I fixed before making this video, so it is unfortunately not recorded. Here are the steps that worked for me:
What you need:
Q-tips or microfiber cloth
pencil with a clean eraser head
small quantity of isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol).
How to do it:
Disassemble the keyboard as shown in the video but additionally unscrew the brown circuit boards covering the keyboard switches.
Separate the soft rubber domes of the keyboard switches from the contacts on the circuit board.
(Take note of the placing and orientation so you can reassemble them correctly afterwards.)
Blow away any dust from all parts.
*Gently* wipe both the conductive (darker) pads of the rubber parts and the contacts on the board with isopropanol.
*Very gently* rotate the eraser head of the pencil on the contacts. The eraser acts as a light abrasive, removing dirt or oxidation from the contacts.
Wipe the contacts again with isopropanol.
Let dry and reassemble.
If some keys still don't work, you may have to repeat the steps for them. Better to do it twice than to be too aggressive and damage the switches the first time. I show in the video how to test the keyboard switches without reassembling the whole instrument. Good luck!
@@EdwinSteiner Thanks for the steps. I definitely will try this out👍🏼
Did you O_O
I have to do my JD-800 😒😒
I used caustic soda on my XP80,in 2 days,the glue is gone and the metal plate just fall off from the keys.
what was the ratio of your mix please
@@costasdiakos8782 100ml on 1 liter of water
is it harmful to skin? or any means from touching it. thanks
I have to do the same body of work to my JV1000....
I recommend that you take a look at the comment threads to this video since people have come up with some good suggestions since. All the best!
I was thinking to buy one of these but this has me cautious
Don’t bother😞I have one and it will almost certainly have the dreaded Red glue issues 🥴
DITTO
Undertaking this now. I went to great lengths so far to keep the keys in order as I removed them. Does it matter that they stay their exact order? Thank you for the video.
Apart from the white keys coming in a few obviously different shapes, I don't think that the exact order matters.
Thanks so much. GULP! Now I have to try to fix my Roland. ALL of the keys are stuck in groups of 4, 8, whatever. I was going to by a JUNO to replace it, but I love my JV-80 so much, I hate to pitch it, so I'm going to try to clean and reglue it. Could you or somebody make a list of all the liquids we need, but availble in the states? You can email me at stuart.mcdowel@wright.edu. THANKS so much, again.
Thankyou for waking the house up at 0:30 in your video...skip
Wow such a lot of work. It seems that these electronic keyboards have a life span, beyond which it's really hard to justify the time/expense to refurbish them.
It's certainly not economic, especially for a JV-80, which is not really sought-after. However, fixing old stuff gives its own kind of satisfaction and with the experience collected in the many comments to this video, one could streamline the process.