Replacing Purge Valve in a 2013 Ford Escape
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- čas přidán 14. 09. 2019
- My wife's 2013 Ford Escape was having some hesitation after filling the fuel tank and then we got the P1450 code. Searching the interweb indicated it needed a new purge valve and that mine was likely stuck open. This video shows a detailed, step-by-step, how it went for me. I'm just a DIY sort of guy and not a mechanic!
The part I installed was the Dorman 911-774 Purge Valve kit.
Hope this helps someone else doing the same job. - Krátké a kreslené filmy
I'm a 57 yr old woman with minimal mechanical experience and I appreciate your tips.This video was very helpful - I just replaced the purge valve on my 2017 Escape - ordered the part off of Amazon (about $80), followed your instructions and about an hour later all done! Taking out the old part was the hardest part - especially the connection up under the windshield - I just cut it apart and rotated it to get to the clips. Thank you!
Fuck yea!
Just followed your video. It was very helpful.
My notes:
1. DO NOT replace the half moon bracket. Slip the new one out of the rubber ring and slide it on to the existing bracket
2. DO NOT break or remove the white clips. After removing the green clips. PRESS IN on the white clip and pull straight back.
Thanks for the video
PUSH IN ON THE WHITE LOCK TO SPREAD OPEN THE WINGS THAT ARE THE "LOCK". After removing the green, top lock. Then pull to remove. Do not break your plastic intake hose!!!! Unfortunately I did, trying to remove both clips and put too much pressure on the port. Any port for that matter but this in particular is a $200 part. Has to be bought with the plastic hose, the accordion, and the sensor to the air filter. However, a very helpful video. I had to start at the beginning of the system, at the air/oil separator in order to replace the pcv valve that had gotten gunked up. Therefore I had had my intake manifold removed. Thank you for showing all the points of connection! This project would also be the first time I, myself had removed the cowling.
THANK YOU! That white one is a pain in the ass but once you know you can just push it in this becomes a lot easier.
For anyone watching and seeing the struggle of the green/white connections. The green comes off. It’s a retention connection for the white one. The white ones need to be pressed in while pulling the connection apart. Pull off the green, push in the white and remove.
Also, you can leave the old valve bracket on. Those 2 tips can save you 30-40 minutes.
I just completed this job and wanted to say thank you, it fixed my problem straight away! For not being a mechanic, you did a really great job detailing how to replace the purge valve.
I did learn a few things that might help someone further:
1. 13:07 I found that by removing the front bolts of your skid plate under the car helped me to get my arm in there from below, which made removing the connector more easily. I did still remove the clip from above though, it was just easier to push the button and pull it off from below.
2. 11:30 I was able to turn the connector to give myself better access to the button, which made it a lot easier to remove the connector. You may have to bend the hose to move it to the other side of a hose that is blocking it. It made a huge difference for me.
3. 8:08 I'm sure it depends on who you buy the part from, but I was able to eliminate the need to remove/replace the bracket. The valve itself (on my part at least) had a rubber piece around it that attaches to the metal bracket. By flexing and pulling, I was able to remove the assembly from the new bracket, and simply attach the new assembly to the old bracket that was already bolted on.
Good luck everybody!
Thanks!
Thanks for the observations.
Helped me so much, along with another video, and saved me hundreds of dollars. Those clips were beasts but I did it (with a lot of perseverance). Thank you!
Awesome! Glad it was helpful!
I just performed this part replacement after my 2013 2.0L failed inspection. The part was $156 at a ford dealer. Four years ago when I had a dealer perform the same service, the part was $118 and the labor was $275. Inflation I guess! This video was very helpful and saved me at least $275 this time around, although I did not have your challenges with the clips. The green clips popped off pretty easily, the white clips did not need to be removed as they are "push buttons." When they are pushed, they release the connection to the tube. Although you can clear a code using an inexpensive DTC computer, the P1450 remains permanent. The inspection station advised me that the code will disappear after driving about 120 miles.
Our purge valve just went on our 2017 Escape and Ford is now selling the part for $290! 🤦♀️
I couldn’t have done this without watching your video. You did an excellent job making it and the job was a breeze!!!! Thanks you so much!!
Also, I didn’t have to take off the bracket with the nuts. I just slipped on the new rubber piece!
Had a lot of fun replacing that thing. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for convincing me not to do this on my own lol
Lol same
Thank you! The clips were such a pain the ass but your video guided me through. Cheers buddy.
Thank you for this video. I was able to complete the repair on my 2015 2.0L in about 2 hours. The info in the video and the comments made the job fairly easy. I was able to break all the green clips and push release all the white clips except for the one by the firewall. It would not release when pushed so i broke it too. Cleared the code and filled my gas tank after the repair. It fired up on the first attempt! With the faulty purge valve it would take 3 -4 tries after filling the tank to get it running. A pick tool set came in very handy for breaking the green clips and pressing the white clips.
And finally - P1450 cleared after a week's driving. It seems like a soft foot isn't good - it cleared when I used 50%+ pedal. Emission test passed. Many thanks to you kc5cbt. Subscribing now.
Great news!
Great video now I see what’s involved. Thanks
Thank you so much for posting this video and going into such great detail! I did it tonight on a 2014 Escape Titanium and because of you and all of the good comments down below, it only took two hours. I gained a few insights and they are; before ripping everything apart, take a few minutes to compare your new one to what's there, if they match, take a piece of tape and a marker and id where the four connections go...front left, front center, air intake and by firewall. I know that sounds anal, but the thing is like a springy octopus and it might be possible to screw it up. Once I was confident that I had the right replacement, I cut all four of the existing hoses with a pair of electrician's diagonal cutters, that way I could spin the connectors so that I could see and work on those crazy clips. On the tougher ones, I used channel locks to hold them in place while I pried the clips out. I also did not remove the existing metal bracket but rather just wiggled the old valve off of the existing bracket and then reused it. I bought the Dorman 911-774 on Amazon for $71.05 which was equivalent to the Ford CV6Z-9D289-R and ironically Amazon's website said that it would not fit my car but I knew the Ford number and based on the pictures it was right. One last thing is that right out of the gate, I had trouble popping the wipers off, the nut came right off but the wipers were frozen on there, I sprayed the stud with WD-40, put the nut back on slighty, tapped it, and still had to use a little block of wood and a small pry bar to break them free...rough start but a great finish. Thanks for helping me save some much needed money :-)) P.S. shame on Ford for making it so complicated
I just ordered that same part from Amazon last night after comparing part numbers and photos as well since like you, Amazon said it wouldn't fit. I will be tackling this job on Saturday. If I can knock this out in two hours I will be STOKED. :)
Do you remember part number
Thanx for this video! I'm going to have to tackle this job in the next week or so. Check Engine light and very hard to start after getting gas.
Same issue with me! Gonna try this out.
This was a very helpful video. Thank you so much for posting it
Glad it helped
Hey man, I used your video as a general guide and saved my gf $500 from the dealer, thank you!
Thanks for posting! I have to tackle this. I just changed plugs too - wish I did it at same time.
I think the key is to find a pry tool thin and long enough to get to the clips. I used some pick tools but had to battle with them clips for quite some time. Also, I dropped one of the nut for the mount down into the abyss... Went with just one nut on. I cleared the codes and just sent wife to fill up with gas and see if she gets the "hard to start/flooding" issue again. Thanks again for posting this video. Would of never tried this not knowing what to look for.
Glad it helped. Been a while since I did this job and no issues in mine since.
Thank you for the great video! I wouldn't have tried this with out it. Was done is less than an hour.
My 2014 Escape had the P1450 code with the humming noise from the fuel filler. I replaced the purge valve two days ago, and I am glad I watched your video first. A couple of comments have been along the lines of "pinch the tabs, don't pry them off" Well, I would like to see how you do that for three of them. Sure, that is how they are designed, but try getting your hand down in the cramped locations when the assembly is installed and then have the ability to squeeze the tabs and pull at the same time to release the connector! I wasted a fair bit of time trying to get the old assembly off the "right" way before realizing the quickest approach was to cut the tubing and pry off the retaining tabs. I did take someone's advice and left the old bracket and rubber ring in place. It was pretty easy to slide the new assembly into the old bracket and ring. So far, no sign of trouble, but it was intermittent to begin with. Thanks for posting!
Great Video! Thanks for taking the time!
Just a couple pointers. you don't have to take off the whole cowl to do this job. just take out the air box and the tube across the top of the engine. I have huge hands and could still reach to disconnect the coupler at the back. Also don't waste your time unbolting that bracket. Just slip the valve rubber mount out of the new one and slip it over the old one still bolted to the intake. Shiny new bracket that can be used for some other fabrication need.
Trying this method now
Thank you for sharing, is a really helpful guide!!
Excellent video
Just did this on our 2013 Escape with almost 100K miles on it. Thank you so much for showing this with all the details. You definitely saved me a lot of money!
Overall it probably took me 2 hrs. Would've been less time had I not dropped my diagonal pliers down and had to fish them out by jacking the car up and crawling underneath. Definitely got scraped up especially on the back one near the fire wall and the front one closest to the center/fan area.
Once I started the car up the check engine light was immediately gone which was a bit of a surprise but I'll take it.
2013 escape, where is the purge valve located? attempting this repair soon.
Awesome video!
That's a really good video. Good job. I don't want to make things confusing but those connectors.... the way they are designed to work is you take both those green tabs that are sticking out and pull to release the lock. You can take it off or just pull it back a bit to free the movement for the remaining clip. The remaining clip you depress, press in instead of removing it and the hose should release.
Thanks for this video! It made me more comfortable with everything going on under the hood. I drive a 2014 escape SE 1.6L and I was able to tackle this job without having to remove the wipers, cowling, and brake master cylinder. I just removed the air filter box (2 8mm bolts at intake tube, and some rubber grommets) and the plastic duct in the back of the engine
Awesome!
How did you access the connection that goes down by the driver side wheel?
I just wanna say, I just did this to my 2013 Escape Titanium Edition with Ecoboost and man I am impressed with the improvement in the way the car runs now. Initially I did it cause I was getting a check engine light and was getting code1450 so this fixed the issue and the car runs soooo much better.
where is the purge valve located? attempting this repair this weekend
Sweet video helped me do mine
Awsome video keep it up
I loved this video, you are so funny
Does anyone know if this is the same fix for a p144a code? 2014 Ford Escape SE ecoboost. Thanks for all the work in putting the video up.
Thanks man you are a lot of help dealer quoted 600 for this
Thanks for the video I appreciate it
As good as any mechanic!
Concerning the mounting bracket I slipped the knew one out of the rubber vibration mount. Then I cut the old rubber vibration mount with a box cutter and put the new assembly on. That kept me from having to undo the old one from the engine and safes time and frustration.
Thank you. What a pain in the ass. And what a dirty engine lol. You did the best with the camera pretty good. Thank you again. These cars are a nightmare to do anything on.
Good video! I have to tackle this job. Looks like you have the 2.0L engine which is what I have to work on. FordTechMakuloco's channel has a really good video on this where he shows the install for the 1.6L engine. Video is called "2013-2016 Ford Escape 1.6L/2.0L Ecoboost P1450 P144C: Canister Purge Valve Diagnosis and Replacement".
Did your wife notice any symptoms in driving/starting or did you just replace this due to it pulling a code?
The connection by the firewall is so hard to get off? What exactly did you do to get it off?
Ty very much..just did mine..and yeah those clips suck..broke the nipple off of the upper intake..but a little Italian engineering saved another $150..
Getting the 1450 code. I just ordered the evap canister on the advice of Ford, but now I'm thinking it might just be the valve. There's a huge $ difference between both parts. Any suggestions?
I never messed with the evap canaster so can't say.
Starting mines tonight I’ll come back with an Update. Wish me Luck
At minute 15:22 what is the part that the clip clips into? When I replaced it the thing it clips onto the piece that little tiny tube thing broke. Now I need to replace that other part but I have no clue the name of it
My check engine light just came on. It's code p1450. My car doesn't want to start after I fill up the tank. But it does start on the second or third try. I'm supposed to go on a trip tomorrow is it safe to drive with this check engine light on or should I fix it first
Is it the same for P144C code EVAP system purge? Is your car 2.0L engine? Nice Model 3 BTW!
I'm not sure. That was the 2.5l engine. Thanks about the model 3! Being honest, we have recently sold the escape and a Model Y sits in its spot! Wife is over the moon!
@@kc5cbt Good decision I guess! Replacing just the battery on the escape, you have to remove almost everything. LOL! I have the same code before P1450, I replaced the same part with a china Purge Valve Kit cost around 50 bucks from ebay. Year later I got a different code P144c which I think is also the same part but different symptoms. My car is stalling on high acceleration uphill. Oh well, I'm getting tired of this car.
We are also planning on getting the Model Y but we might wait it for few more months hoping for something new updates like the refresh console. Not sure if Y is getting the 4680 battery in the future or maybe some change in the Tax deduction for EV's like tesla.
DO NOT GO THROUGH THIS HELL TO FIX THIS PROBLEM. Simply buy the solenoid repair kit Dorman 913-430. You won't have to touch any of those clips. Piece of cake.
Hmm
And where is this? On the vehicle and how hard is it to reach?😊
Ok, so when I was replacing the Vacuum pump, I broke the connection at the air intake hose. You remove at 7:24 and connect at 24:25. Does that mean that whole piece you just replaced needs to be done?
You broke it on the parts I was replacing? I would guess so... That you could just replace the part I was installing. Good luck!
@@kc5cbt Thx, yeah it looks like it's the vapour ejection valve connecting to the air cleaner outlet pipe assembly, which seems to be part of the evaporator emission canister purge valve assembly. it may be broken just at the outlet pipe so I might be okay just replacing that part
If people would stop over filling these newer vehicles they would not have to replace this part. Over filling it after the pump shuts off is what causes this
By hesitation do you mean the car stumbles and acts as if it’s going to stall? My car does this after every fill up. Quite annoying but starts up just fine and no light. After every fill up though it always acts like it’s choking.
After topping off, when you start the car, the idle would drop real low like it wants to stall. One day it did stall and wouldn't restart until it sat for a while. After a few minutes of driving, it would be fine. Only happened after getting a full tank of gas for me.
I had same problem after filling up (not topping off).
I know it's ironic but those connections are called "quick" disconnects. The other piece you couldn't name I would call it a "air intake tube" but not sure if that's correct. Nice job though
Hi!! I dont have any code.. just a noise coming from the gas tank..like some air trying to get out...no code no problem to start up...this valve could be the problem??
I just clipped out the old purge valve and used the quick connect to put a new one in
Best less hassle way just take air filter box out all out make it loads easier if i remember when i did it going to do it again
Good video, but there is no need to remove the bracket old part slides right off and slide on the new one. It will save a few min of wrenching.
Is that red hole on the right side of the engine really just capped off?
I have a question.. I have the same problem.. .. I just finished the replacement. will the code go away by itself.. ? . if so when>/?..
No it will not, it must be cleared from memory.
It is supposed to clear within 3 drive cycles (which are not 3 trips - its more complicated than that). Mine didn't clear after several days, I've reset it to see if it comes back - but you can't reset the permanent code (which is what a smog test looks for). That can only be set automatically by the monitors. Nothing you can do except fork out lots of money
Yes it will. After several trips - town and freeway. I drove with a soft foot - I suspect it took longer because of that (a full week).
This job on a 2.0 escape is a pain!! Have to remove entire top to reach the connector by firewall! The one in front of engine is really something to reach! All in all an hour job took me 2.5 really had to take my time to not break any of the connections to main lines!!
Hii i have a question where did you order your kit? Can you share a link to it please because I really need one for my ford i have the same vehicle
I'm sorry I just don't remember. It's been too long now. I think I found it on some auto parts website that sells Ford parts
@@kc5cbt oh its ok i just hope i can find the exact one lol thank you though this video still helps alot :) and it will save me money from the auto shop
My wife's 2013 Escape also has the P1450 code. I'm watching your video to see how cumbersome this job is. I have a neighbor that is good at these things I'm thinking can help me.
I see your parts on the garage floor. Can you please provide me with a parts list?
Thanks in advance.
What about the location and how to change the PCV valve of a 2013 ford escape 1.6litre ecoboost
See those little white lines on your windshield? That's where the wiper blades sit..
Does anyone know where the solenoid is 2.0 eco boost can’t find it anywhere
To prevent this in the future, simply dont "top up" gas at the pump. Usually what causes problems like this at tank and under hood.
When I say top off, I mean filling the tank until it auto stops once. It's a bad idea to keep forcing more and more fuel in after it auto stops.
I can agree more, I usually stop at the first click but for some stupid reason I overfill the tank and now I'm having this issue..... plus I had to replace the fuel pump because it started to make a loud grinding noise......
That would be the vent valve located on the canister.
In the 4 years I've had my 2015 Escape, I've filled it until it clicks once and that's it. I just got the P1450 error code, replaced all this crap, and the problem went away. So it's not overfilling the tank that's the problem.
At 8:04, the oil on the wall of the air intake. Is that normal?
I don’t think so.... 😔
@7:18 whats that called i've got a 1.6 t 2013 ford escape
Hi was this an All Wheel Drive escape?
No, fwd
@@kc5cbt Thank you! Do you know if it would be any different on an AWD 1.6 ecoboost escape?
@@harleyride really not sure but would guess not.
Those clips are the absolute worst. I skipped the bracket and just took the rubber boot off the bracket and assembled accordingly. I worry about these new grey clips(push buttons) if I ever have to do this again. They fought me to go back on and we won't just be able to rip these out.
How long time wise
Do you have the 2.0 or 1.6
2.0
How did you know that there was a problem with the purge valve? Did it code 1450? Were there symptoms besides the code diagnosis? I ask because the auto body shop that performed the repairs (THREE WEEKS!!!😡) on my 2013 Escape Titanium after a car/deer accident, killed the battery. I bought a battery on the way home and, good thing I did, as, when I parked it, then later tried to start it, it was DEAD! I replaced it. Two days later I fill the tank, come out of the gas station, and push the start button and,...nothing. Looked around. No code. No obvious problem. Tried a few more times, making sure my foot depressed the brake enough, etc. I then sat a minute wondering if the dead battery issue did something to the alternator or starter... Finally it started. When I returned home, I shut the vehicle off. Waited. Then pushed the button. It felt/sounded like I heard a single "click" and then it started. If no code was tripped, how do I know for sure if this is the issue or not. I do not want to be stranded somewhere as my wife commutes to work (60 miles one way) every night!
Not sure. We had the code but the biggest sign was it would run rough but only after filling up with gas.
You just push all those clips in to release them. Not pry them out.
Seams like everybody does those clips the same wrong way. Maybe because it is to simple they figure it must be harder than it looks. When you see a clip that is flat with the fitting housing, just push in on that part most people are prying up, and by pushing in on the big part it will release the clip.
The green clips can easily be pulled off by hand. The grey clips are easier if the hose is cut so the clip can be turned into a better position. However, they can still be very difficult to remove - 3 were simple, the fourth took more than an hour (using a sharpened steel rod)
I just did this on my ford fusion. It was much worse and barely managed to get it done.
Worse? nothing can possibly be worse than fixing this on an Escape, for the simple reason that anything worse would require removing the engine
@@woodfinchcrafts7267 The line going to the lower part of the engine was surrounded by coolant lines and the alternator. You can barley see it let alone get your hand on it. I had to use an 18" screwdriver and a curved prybar to eventually get it on. I might have cursed a time or two.
@@ScanMan1967 There are 3 lines going to the lower parts of the engine with an Escape - just as difficult. If it was harder it would be impossible
Had such a hard time on my escape, I finally gave up and just spliced the valve itself in the evap line.
did it all in one hour without taking the wipper blade ....just unscrew the air intake and the brake oil tank to give you more space
My code stills on after replacing the defective part
You may need to clear the code from the computer. If you don't have a code tool, most car part stores will clear your codes for free. If you did clear the code and it came back, means you didn't fix the real issue.
@@kc5cbt Thank you...I really appreciated... God bless you,
The engine monitors will automatically clear the code if the valve was the problem. It needs several "drive cycles". Which in my case took a week of town and freeway driving. Getting a store to clear the code is just temporary - the monitors need to confirm things are ok, otherwise the code will just come back
😮
Let's be honest. THIS IS A TERRIBLY DIFFICULT JOB. What a pain in the ass.
Just did it today. The bottom clip I found out is MUCH easier if you jack up the front and go from underneath. Because I'm a moron, I broke the stem off on that one. I'm trying epoxy so that I can limp for a few days but I had to order another intercooler inlet assembly. Still cheaper than taking it to Ford for the original problem lol.
P144C is the code i was having
Excellent video. However, I've tried for over an hour to pop the white tab on the tube closest to the windscreen. Just won't budge. The green clips were easy. All other connections are removed. Moral of the story? never buy a Ford. What car requires the windscreen wipers to be removed to replace the battery?? Ashamed to say I used to work for the company
Lol. Pretty funny. Those clips are a real pain.
FInally got the last clip off using a sharpened steel rod. Quite easy to get the new part on (except I just left the bracket unbolted - doesn't seem important. But I still have the P1450, even after driving for a few days. I've reset it, will see if it stays off - all monitors seem ok.
Code never came back for me so I think that must've been it.
@@kc5cbt Holding thumbs that my problem isn't the canister - 4WD....
@@kc5cbt I bought an OBD tool from Amazon that reads permanent as well as stored codes. Stored codes can be erased and will turn the engine light off. However, if the underlying problem remains, they will be turned on again, so the permanent code is what the monitors must turn off, and is what the emission test stations look at. Those cannot be turned off except by the monitor systems, in this case the EVAP monitor. Anyway - $600+ saved thanks to you. Thank you
Why does everyone pull those green ones out you just push in and pull the hose off simple . But I guess if you want to break them just rip them out..
Your hands are too clean. You can't possibly know what you're doing 😄😉. Your wife married well 💯
Why didnt u just buy 4' of hose and make your own
There is more than just the valve in the assembly. I did replace just my purge valve with a heat gun. Still having a P144C code. Next will be the entire house assembly like him, but on a 1.6.
The fail part of this would of been reassembling everything and the code still pulls up. Man that’s the worst on these cars
Been there and done it.......If it ever happens again, I would just CUT the damn valve out and replace it with another electric value. Such a dumb-ass setup!
Learn how this valve system works
Do you have a reference? I bet some folks would be interested to know how it works. I have no idea. I sold the car so not really concerned about it anymore 😂
Why not just cut the valve off and use hoses to slide over the new one? Not mess with all the clamps just cut the valve out and cut the new one and hose clamp it?
Ford wants $450 to do this....I can see why. 😖
Very dumb design by Ford in that purge valve
Watched someone do this on a Chevy Cruze I think, and it was just the valve, easily accessible, 2 clips, done in 5 mins. This is just like the 12V battery replacement, which I did about a year ago, have to remove that top piece or do it another way, which I think I opted for, but it was still a big pain.
@@Seanwmca You’re right. Happened on my parents car and the went to advance auto where it was installed free with batt purchase of course. Prevented me from driving two hours to change myself. Horrible design by Ford.
you can buy just that valve with two sharkbits (dorman) co