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Good video! Thanks for taking your time to make the video

Thank you. What a pain in the ass. And what a dirty engine lol. You did the best with the camera pretty good. Thank you again. These cars are a nightmare to do anything on.

I won’t even install this. The hole for the drain is 1 1/2”. You will never be able to use this without clogging it.

Concerning the mounting bracket I slipped the knew one out of the rubber vibration mount. Then I cut the old rubber vibration mount with a box cutter and put the new assembly on. That kept me from having to undo the old one from the engine and safes time and frustration.

two years on, how do you like it?

Your video is very detailed and clear. Your descriptions on how to install an Aquia IV helped me learn how to repair mine! Many models of Toto toilets sold in the US are prone to developing problems with the inlet valve. A classic problem is they develop a slow leak that softly hisses. Women (with better hearing in the higher frequencies) hear it well before men, leading to many "Yes it DOES hiss!!! Can't you hear it??? FIX IT NOW" conversations . Several youtube videos show how to clean the inlet valve, which often solves the problem, but some need the valve replaced. The skirt on the base of some Aquia models make that difficult, and no videos show how to replace the valve it. The inlet valve in a 2 piece Aquia you showed not too bad to replace (although you do have to take the tank off, which varies by model). The one piece Aquia models are a bigger problem...you have to take off the entire base-and-tank unit to get to the inlet valve. Glad I have a 2 piece one...and you showed us one as well. Thanks

Just followed your video. It was very helpful. My notes: 1. DO NOT replace the half moon bracket. Slip the new one out of the rubber ring and slide it on to the existing bracket 2. DO NOT break or remove the white clips. After removing the green clips. PRESS IN on the white clip and pull straight back. Thanks for the video

Starting mines tonight I’ll come back with an Update. Wish me Luck

Good video! I have to tackle this job. Looks like you have the 2.0L engine which is what I have to work on. FordTechMakuloco's channel has a really good video on this where he shows the install for the 1.6L engine. Video is called "2013-2016 Ford Escape 1.6L/2.0L Ecoboost P1450 P144C: Canister Purge Valve Diagnosis and Replacement".

I just wanna say, I just did this to my 2013 Escape Titanium Edition with Ecoboost and man I am impressed with the improvement in the way the car runs now. Initially I did it cause I was getting a check engine light and was getting code1450 so this fixed the issue and the car runs soooo much better.

I just clipped out the old purge valve and used the quick connect to put a new one in

My wife's 2013 Escape also has the P1450 code. I'm watching your video to see how cumbersome this job is. I have a neighbor that is good at these things I'm thinking can help me. I see your parts on the garage floor. Can you please provide me with a parts list? Thanks in advance.

Is that red hole on the right side of the engine really just capped off?

This job on a 2.0 escape is a pain!! Have to remove entire top to reach the connector by firewall! The one in front of engine is really something to reach! All in all an hour job took me 2.5 really had to take my time to not break any of the connections to main lines!!

PUSH IN ON THE WHITE LOCK TO SPREAD OPEN THE WINGS THAT ARE THE "LOCK". After removing the green, top lock. Then pull to remove. Do not break your plastic intake hose!!!! Unfortunately I did, trying to remove both clips and put too much pressure on the port. Any port for that matter but this in particular is a $200 part. Has to be bought with the plastic hose, the accordion, and the sensor to the air filter. However, a very helpful video. I had to start at the beginning of the system, at the air/oil separator in order to replace the pcv valve that had gotten gunked up. Therefore I had had my intake manifold removed. Thank you for showing all the points of connection! This project would also be the first time I, myself had removed the cowling.

How long time wise

I'm a 57 yr old woman with minimal mechanical experience and I appreciate your tips.This video was very helpful - I just replaced the purge valve on my 2017 Escape - ordered the part off of Amazon (about $80), followed your instructions and about an hour later all done! Taking out the old part was the hardest part - especially the connection up under the windshield - I just cut it apart and rotated it to get to the clips. Thank you!

At minute 15:22 what is the part that the clip clips into? When I replaced it the thing it clips onto the piece that little tiny tube thing broke. Now I need to replace that other part but I have no clue the name of it

Just did this on our 2013 Escape with almost 100K miles on it. Thank you so much for showing this with all the details. You definitely saved me a lot of money! Overall it probably took me 2 hrs. Would've been less time had I not dropped my diagonal pliers down and had to fish them out by jacking the car up and crawling underneath. Definitely got scraped up especially on the back one near the fire wall and the front one closest to the center/fan area. Once I started the car up the check engine light was immediately gone which was a bit of a surprise but I'll take it.

Thanks man you are a lot of help dealer quoted 600 for this

Hi!! I dont have any code.. just a noise coming from the gas tank..like some air trying to get out...no code no problem to start up...this valve could be the problem??

Thanks for posting. I’m installing 2 of them in my house next week. I was thinking of putting Teflon tape on all the connections because I’m paranoid.

Hey man, I used your video as a general guide and saved my gf $500 from the dealer, thank you!

What about the location and how to change the PCV valve of a 2013 ford escape 1.6litre ecoboost

DO NOT GO THROUGH THIS HELL TO FIX THIS PROBLEM. Simply buy the solenoid repair kit Dorman 913-430. You won't have to touch any of those clips. Piece of cake.

Best less hassle way just take air filter box out all out make it loads easier if i remember when i did it going to do it again

Great informative video. Which model and what was rough-in flange measurement ?

you can buy just that valve with two sharkbits (dorman) co

Thank you so much for this video! It was a HUGE help for me!!

I couldn’t have done this without watching your video. You did an excellent job making it and the job was a breeze!!!! Thanks you so much!! Also, I didn’t have to take off the bracket with the nuts. I just slipped on the new rubber piece!

That sucks! You have to drill through your tile? Now you have a chance to leak water through the holes. What a bad design

did it all in one hour without taking the wipper blade ....just unscrew the air intake and the brake oil tank to give you more space

P144C is the code i was having

I have the same bowl with a Toto Washlet and I can't get the line from the toilet seat to the supply line connected because it is too far under the tank. I guess I will have to extend it coming down from the toilet somehow

Thank you for the great video! I wouldn't have tried this with out it. Was done is less than an hour.

@7:18 whats that called i've got a 1.6 t 2013 ford escape

My check engine light just came on. It's code p1450. My car doesn't want to start after I fill up the tank. But it does start on the second or third try. I'm supposed to go on a trip tomorrow is it safe to drive with this check engine light on or should I fix it first

That's a really good video. Good job. I don't want to make things confusing but those connectors.... the way they are designed to work is you take both those green tabs that are sticking out and pull to release the lock. You can take it off or just pull it back a bit to free the movement for the remaining clip. The remaining clip you depress, press in instead of removing it and the hose should release.

😮

Thank you for this video. I was able to complete the repair on my 2015 2.0L in about 2 hours. The info in the video and the comments made the job fairly easy. I was able to break all the green clips and push release all the white clips except for the one by the firewall. It would not release when pushed so i broke it too. Cleared the code and filled my gas tank after the repair. It fired up on the first attempt! With the faulty purge valve it would take 3 -4 tries after filling the tank to get it running. A pick tool set came in very handy for breaking the green clips and pressing the white clips.

How about cleaning that bathroom first before filming?

I knew you weren’t a professional when you didn’t hold your hammer handle from the end. Plus wearing flip flops!

This was great! I am going to do my own instal now. Thank you!

Why does everyone pull those green ones out you just push in and pull the hose off simple . But I guess if you want to break them just rip them out..

I just performed this part replacement after my 2013 2.0L failed inspection. The part was $156 at a ford dealer. Four years ago when I had a dealer perform the same service, the part was $118 and the labor was $275. Inflation I guess! This video was very helpful and saved me at least $275 this time around, although I did not have your challenges with the clips. The green clips popped off pretty easily, the white clips did not need to be removed as they are "push buttons." When they are pushed, they release the connection to the tube. Although you can clear a code using an inexpensive DTC computer, the P1450 remains permanent. The inspection station advised me that the code will disappear after driving about 120 miles.

Ford wants $450 to do this....I can see why. 😖

Your hands are too clean. You can't possibly know what you're doing 😄😉. Your wife married well 💯

what was your rough-in? 14?

You just push all those clips in to release them. Not pry them out.

Well done! Thanks