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2013 Ford Escape P1450 check engine, purge valve replacement
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- čas přidán 17. 02. 2017
- Symptoms included noisy vibrating gas cap, which was inhaling air as the fuel system was under vacuum. Fuel smell/odor, rough idle, and check engine light p1450 p 1450 fixed by replacing under hood purge valve or steam purification valve with hose assembly 100 bucks from the dealership.
Thank you for this video. This was the problem with the love of my life's 2014 Ford Escape. It had all the symptoms you had stated above and once I changed out the purge value, it was completely back to normal.
Thank you! It was more difficult due those freaking clips and the last on was particularly hard to get to, but I did it and saved myself hundreds of $$$! I've only done very minimal repairs on my 2013 Escape SEL (like changing the battery, wipers, etc) and I as able to do this (with perseverance).
I just did it for 2013 Escape. Now she’s going fine and the code is gone. Thank you to your video.
Thank you for this video, i am experiencing the exact issue with my 2013 Escape. This was very informative.
Glad to help, hope it saved you some time and money!
Thanks for the great video! I took your advice and picked up a set of the "picks" before starting the job. They were invaluable.
My 2013 2.0 FWD SEL Escape had not thrown a code, but it was becoming increasingly difficult to start after filling up with gas, so I did the repair.
(at my last fill-up the engine cranked and failed to start FIVE times. It barely chugged to life while I was applying throttle on the sixth attempt)
Problem solved. The part number is CV6Z-9D289 and the current version is "-S". (seems like they are constantly coming up with slight modifications to the part to improve it, I would presume)
I tried removing the whole assembly without removing the wipers and cowl, but found that rear connection to be too awkward, so I removed the wipers and cowl. It only takes an extra 10-15 minutes to take off and 10-15 minutes to put back on, so it's no big deal. I took my time and the job took me 2-1/2 hours. If I was doing a second one, I would be closer to an hour.
BTW I am the guy who tries to fill the tank to the top, to get the last little bit of gas in there. Apparently this could have contributed to the problem, so in the future I will fill-up and stop!
Awesome info for everyone thanks!
Your verbal step by step process of removing the purge valve harness sure made it sound easy. Forget the two hour job and add the steps where if you happen to drop a tool in the process. Now remove the undercover panel to retrieve tools. Those connectors on the harness were a bitch to remove even when you trashed them trying to disconnect them using picks. Anyway, got the job done, took ME all day. Saved some money! Thanks!
Lotta people hatin! I did it in an hour, I timed myself. So, I'm wondering if I had the 'easy' motor to do it on? For example, there was definitely no need to remove the underbody cover on my model, it was easily accessible from above, but someone else said they had to. Was yours a 2.0 Turbo also or a different motor?
This video saved the day! Thank you so much for making this video! Fixed my problem right away!
It wasn't mentioned in the video, but removing the cover on the bottom like you are doing an oil change makes it much easier to get to the clips on the front of the engine.
Thanks for uploading. Was wondering why there was a noise related to this issue. Glad to know you experienced the same thing. Going to call my dealer and see if this is covered under CPO
I have been having this issue for a while plus it wouldn't start after I filled up the gas. I just did this fix and all is well now. Thanks for the great video!
Glad to hear it. Good news for others having that symptom which I did not have.
I'm having the same symptom where it won't start after I fill up with gas. I took it in and the mechanic said he changed the back purge valve but not the front and i'm still having problems. I suppose I should get the front one changed as well then?
@@racheljenson6114 This is fix for it (front one). But also not "topping off" gas when filling up will prevent it from going bad in the future after repair. The evap system is designed to trap gas vapor and not liquid form...so topping off can get it in system and cause this.
Hi I know this is 2 years later but did it fix your issue?? Did you do the whole harness or just purge valve? Thanks
YESSSS!! You did help me! THANK YOU SO MUCH! EXACTLY what is wrong with my 2013 ford escape!
Jim thanks for this video, looks like I know what I'm doing this weekend!
Omg life saver just got off of the phone with the dealership who wants to charge me $500 for this repair. Not today!
Awesome!
Jim do I have to change both front and back purge valves for the ford escape or just back? Thanks.
@@jimsmith939 If its a p1450, its just the one under the hood. Be sure to get the OEM Ford brand, not the knockoff Dorman.
@@jdigitalseven7 Unfortunately, I already ordered a Dorman and I'm waiting for it to get here. Did you have a problem with it?
Going to attempt this now. Thank you Jim!
Thank you. Same issue on my 2015 titanium
Awesome Info Jim!!! Thanks!!! Update: bought the part and installed it today, everything went smoothly. Thanks again Jim, saved me probably $200 in labor.
I wish I had those dental picks. They would have saved me 5 hours of frustration. There is no way one hour for the job. It took me an hour to get just one of those clips off. My hands were sore and bleeding trying to get at those clips. Anyway, good luck to all! Oh, I have a 2016 2.0 liter turbo.
Thanks for the info
Thanks for your video sir. What was the noise like? 🙂 just kidding lol how much was that part?
Thank you
The information I read that the purge valve is located in the rear of the car and the subframe needs to be disconnected and rear brakes pull off in order to reach it
That is the vent valve.
I have the same car, only mine when I put gas, does not turn on until the third time and sometimes throws air in the gas cap.
Hey what did you do to fix the problem with your escape I'm having the same problem when I put gas in it
I just did this to my mother's 2013 2.0l escape. Afterwards, the brake pedal is stiff like the vaccuum in the booster isn't working. Any idea what I may have messed up? In s sny part of this level line supposed to be connected to intake? Wondering if I inadvertently swapped the vaccuum with the evap connector over there since the clips are identical.
It is definitely vacuum-line related. I couldn't say whether you accidentally removed a line you shouldn't have (and left it off) or whether you didn't connect one of the connectors on this purge valve all the way. Start by checking the connections on the purge valve (see if you can pull them off) and fix any that aren't on all the way.
Well, our 09 Escape still will not start... after changing out fuel pump and the purge valve....still getting the P0457 permanent code ..any hints? tnx. I did try to clean this filler opening a bit..but this should not prevent vehicle from starting........and check engine light was not on.. except in accessory...Vehicle will not start..
Sorry that's a pretty different car, a different code, and a different problem than I had so I'm not sure.
It helps to have little hands too
you know you dont have to pick the clips out. they work the opposite direction. squeeze them from the top, and the sides spread open. practice on the new hose where you can see the action, before you've crammed your arms all the way the engine bay and cant see.
Hi Jim, i have a 2013 ford escape 2.0L the check engine light is on and the code is P0451-power train Evaporative emission control system pressure sensor range/performance. do you think it will solve the problem if going to replace the purge valve?
Hard to say, first I would try cleaning the fuel filler flap where it seals. It sounds like it could also be the pressure sensor itself or even the vent valve by the canister? Good luck. Let us know what it was or make a video of your own when you figure it out.
This guy had the same code m.czcams.com/video/Qp2irpZV9cI/video.html
Where exactly is the 4th connection? I tracked it and it looks like it is below the drivers side headlight somewhere. Do you have to get that one from the bottom?
I got all of them from the top. But it may depend on your engine/drivetrain details. As I say mine is 2.0T AWD
Ty
did you remove the evaporated canister also? if so how did you get it off?
Nope not needed for this repair
How long did it take for your engine light to clear? Or how did you reset the check engine light?
I have a scan tool so I reset it. Otherwise it might take 30 drive cycles max (warm up and cool down is one cycle).
hi my 2013 escape 2.0 L has a P0456 code "small vacuum leak" i am wondering if this part can fix this code thanks a lot!
No way to tell. But this wouldn’t be my first guess.
I have the same problem/code. Mine is just a 2014 ford escape SE. Does it gonna work?
All the same stuff I’m sure it will.
Good video.. But after that your car is good.? Or you continue having this code.?
Cleared the code, fixed as stated in video.
Jim Starick thanks good friend..! :-)
Your awesome man. One question if you don't mind. Were you able to narrow down that it wasn't the canister in the back (behind the rear diff on the awd model) somehow or did you just try this first and that happened to be the fix? Im glad this worked for you. Supposedly,changing out that purge canister on the awd models is a real pain in the butt.
A couple of things, first yes I did try the "vent valve" first which is mounted to the canister. I was able to remove, clean, and reinstall this part with only a few curse words and jack stands. You need nimble hands but you can do it. I found the vent valve to be operating properly so I oiled it and reinstalled. The symptoms were back the next day so I went on to the fix shown in the vid. Hope this helps.
Tony, I am dealing with the exact same issue as described by Jim. He referred me to your comment instead of re-typing. Could you please share what the final result/solution was for your Escape? Thank you.
Is the a FWD or AWD model? We're having issues and the P1450 code is now present on our 2014 Escape 2.0L AWD . The only problem we're currently experiencing is right after gassing up where it has a bit of trouble starting, other than that it runs completely fine. Going to avoid filling the tank completely until I figure out the problem to avoid flooding the evap canister. I'm hoping it's just the purge valve located in the engine bay.
This is the awd as I mention in the video. As I mention in the other comments I also tried the vent valve which is on the canister by the fuel tank. If you are just guessing at this point I would start with purge valve shown in this video it is easier. The vent valve can be removed without major disassembly but it is tough. Good luck.
Jim Starick Thanks, I'm going to start with the purge valve, however I was a bit worried about the canister itself as a lot of people online are claiming you can't get to it without removing the subframe. Glad to see someone has though.
Yeah to remove whole canister you need to remove frame, big project. You can do vent valve without removing all that tho. Start here, then vent valve, before the big project.
@@74ace468 Finding myself coming back to this video again, haha. We had replaced the purge valve assembly 5 years ago and it did the trick. No more start up issues after fueling and the P1450 code cleared itself. Vehicle was about 3 years old at the time.
2 years later and it needed to be replaced again. Once again it solved the issue after filling up and cleared the P1450 code.
Now 3 years after replacing it the second time and it has gone again. 3rd replacement of this god damn purge valve.
Seems like this part doesn't last much longer than 3 years. The vehicle is paid off though and no other issues with it thankfully. I'm not one to overfill my tank either, so I'm not sure what could possibly be causing this thing to go so often.
@@Toffy93 wow what a shame! I am still riding on this original fix but you have me thinking I’m on borrowed time!
P144a code will this fix it?
I have no idea
Jim, I have the same year, engine and AWD. Exact same symptoms you describe. Went looking for the part and came across some more escape owners saying it could be the solenoid & canister which on our AWD models requires dropping the whole rear subframe. Did you see this same info and if so how did you isolate to the purge valve part under the hood? This video and any reply are greatly appreciated.
See my reply to similar comment from Tony, short answer yes I removed and cleaned the vent valve and that was not my issue. Would definitely recommend this repair first. Come back and comment how it turns out for you!
Jim, this definitely fixed my issue. I have run two tanks through now to be certain. On your estimate for a 1 hour repair I'm going to say that is very optimistic. Unless you have small girly hands, thin arms and can bend yourself like a contortionist. Thinking the clip near the firewall would be worst I started with it. Several cuts, cursing breaks and about 45 minutes later I had that clip off. I was using a 90 degree pick. The lower front left clip turned out to be worse. After about 15 minutes on it I briefly considered soaking a rag in gas and stuffing it in the oil fill hole and burning the damn thing to the ground. Probably the only thing stopping me was it was in my buddies garage. With all the breaks for first aid, cursing and getting re-centered mentally it took me about 3 hours, and 1 six pack. If you have big hands either take more crap off or make friends with a small mechanic.
Sorry to hear took you so long sounds like your clips were much tougher than mine. Glad it solved your problem tho!
The clips are so tight. It gives me hard time especially those buttom and rear part
What engine is yours?
Definitely don’t attempt this without those hooks. The top ones were semi-easy to snap off with a little screwdriver but that bottom one behind the wheel well is impossible
Keith K ikr. I just had mine done today. And well it got me about 2-1/2 hours as i dont have those picktools.
No need to take the cowling, wipers and upper brake master reservoir off
Removing the intake boot and piping will give you enough room between the battery and engine to remove the rear hose
Interesting. Seemed to me they needed to come off but if you did it that way that's awesome!
Jim Starick bit of a tight fit. Have to hug the motor a bit. But it’s doable
Great vid regardless. Helped a lot.
This is what going on with mine.
What website did you order from with this item #??
Got it at the dealer
I ordered mine from rockauto.com
Thanks it really helped me
How is this fix holding up?
Great, no problems since. This was definitely the problem.
When you first replaced it did you still have a rough idle? Or check engine light?
check engine light may need to be cleared out, or may take a month to clear itself out. No I did not have rough idle afterwards.
Wow..i saw this vid but im not to skilled to do the fix..ford dealership in brooklyn charged me 700 for the fix..thanks anyway guy..
@king.am the part online was 75 dollars...it was on the ford invoice for 129 dollars(the whole purge Assembly)..they charged 250 to scan the car and 450 dollars for labor..i would like to have paid you instead of them..thanks guy..