Double Cardan Drive Shaft Rebuild
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- čas přidán 16. 07. 2024
- Apologies for the typo, it's Cardan not Cardone
Orielly Auto Parts:
Precision Double Cardan CV Centering Yoke
Part #: 607
U-Joint Part #: 269 for sealed
U-Joint Part # 280 for greaseable
www.ksuspensionlifts.com
ksuspension
For the final U-joint in the double cardan, it's easiest to install one set of opposing end caps (the ones that will NOT get the spring clips) then with those in their happy place, nestled against the end yoke assembly, work either side of the u-joint down till you can slip the end caps into the machined ends of the cardan and tap tap tap both sides till they are flush and can be punched so that the spring clips can be inserted. Way easier and you don't have to phone a friend.
So basically opposite order of his final step.
I know this is old but to whoever is watching this...With the final ujoint if you install the bearing caps in the Cardan first then press the caps in it makes things a lot easier. I use bailing wire around the ujoint to hold pressure on the Cardan spring..One man job that way and pretty easy to boot...
Solid advice!
Doug Vanderpool Thank you for the video on drive lines, it was a big help. Keep up the good work for us gear heads.
Waiting on my rebuild kit to arrive today. Thanks for the tutorial. Best one I've seen so far.
Good tip to put the uni in the freezer for the night befor and the caps will slide in a lot easier, but great video cheers
I did this on my s10 last year and the funny part was none of the local parts stores adv auto, auto zone, Napa knew what a cardan joint was. I found the only rebuild kit for my truck at napa (part PUJ-606) but still had to tell them the part number to get it.
God bless you for providing the part #s! Great video.
great video, just finished it today.
Thank you SOOOOO MUCH for this video!!!!! It made my life much easier!
Good tip on greasing the needles before installing the caps.
Great video, looks like i'll be rebuilding driveshaft myself :D keep up the good work, greetings from slovenia. +SUBED!
Looks like a Driveshaft from a Bronco or something. Thanks for the video!
Great video thanks!
This is a well done, very informative video on rebuilding the Dodge/Jeep double Cardan joint. thanks for your excellent video!
Back in the day they called them constant velocity joints
No. That is NOT a Constant-Velocity (CV) Joint. CV-joints have larger ball-bearings. Look 'em up. The design is quite different.
Thanks for this!
Thanks, was able to do my Land Rover in a breeze watching this
On the last U-joint, you are supposed to put the "most difficult" caps on the u-joint first then slide the u-joint into the cradle. Don't put the other caps on that u-joint until you put it in the cradle.
Thanks bro.
Try battery pliers, a design like a Snap-On 208BCP work awesome, much more grip than needle nose....
Go ahead
Is the double cardon just 2 u joints in a housing or is there a ball or something between the u joints?
Great video. I appreciate that you did your rebuild using the simplest tools possible. Only question: the part that the centering yoke mates with, is that part of the H-yoke, or is that a replaceable part as well?
joe t the centering yoke mates with the shaft itself
It's held in by the ujoints
Raffi Kassardjian thanks a lot.
The greasable U-joints are not advisable for the cardon joint (although my SYE kit came with them and wasn't cheap)! Spicer recommends that you grease them every 6000 miles and the needle type zerks are no fun to grease if you have them. Non-greasable, 5-1310X is the way to go. They will last 50,000 miles or more and they are 30% stronger than the greasable type.
Not bad pal. Keep practicing.
thanks for the video, i spent a lot of time trying to find out how to get this out. One question tho, can you replace the part that the centering yoke mates with? Mine appears to have sheared off the drive shaft
Driveshaft side, no, on the H-yoke side, yes
Jesus, you put the joint in the cap before banging on the cap. Just going to loose all the needles. PAINFUL
cam bertels didn’t lose a single one, still going strong
KSuspension living on the edge though, lol.
@@KSuspension You got lucky. MUCH better putting it in a vice and slowly pressing the caps in. Get them pressed in a little to the trunnions on the cross will engage each set of needles together and then you can hammer them home or just use the vice. I have rebuilt a bunch of these since the 70's, yes I am old.
charlie dee age just helps with experience :-) we use a press every time, just trying to show others how to go by hand if a press isn’t available
I dont' understand why you say don't get the greasable ones because they are weaker. I always get the greasable ones and have never had one break. Unless you have a supercharger or something why aren't the greasable ones strong enough? Just curious.
Has anyone ever changed one of these shafts out to a newer style front line like a 2003 style ..
What type of parakeet was that you were working on I got a Ford Ranger with a superlift and the front driveshaft look exactly the same but mine is bad
This was for a Jeep, but many vehicles use the same type
Hi Raffi. I have a 2004 Wrangler Rubicon that making the clicking noise from the front drive shaft, and also vibrates like hell. I was told I may need to replace the whole shaft, or do I just need to do what you did here? Thanks.
Could be bad ujoints, but also could be out of balance.
A driveline shop should be able to tell if it's bent or just needs some ujoints
did those new u joints come with new retention clips, or did you just reuse your old ones?
TDONLEY91 new ujoints should always come with new clips
KSuspension great man, thanks. just ordered all 3 u joints and your centering yoke/bearing with your part numbers. going to try this next weekend. I have a harbor freight press, hopefully that makes this job quicker
TDONLEY91 the press will save you a lot of time! Good luck with the work!
Is there a seal that that the socket yoke sets in. I ordered a sockit yoke. There is some kind of seal on shaff after mine fell out. I didn't know it that is part of assembly of something I have to order separate. Thanks
yes, some shafts have a rubber seal. I don't remember the technical name for it, and they're fun to try and find at times. I've only ever found them online to order in.
How to take the vacuum line systems and shit off two words just one or two lines and fix the vacuum on the four-wheel drive
raffi can you tell me if those part numbers will be the same here in australia ??
i have trouble finding front axle unis here under part number 5 - 760x no shop stocks them here and we have to buy from rock auto . so just wondering if your part numbers are also genuine spicer ones that wont be listed here . cheers bud
xjjeeper I honestly couldn't tell you bud. As far as I know, the 760x is the Spicer number and the parts store has the same numbers in their system for this style ujoint
I wish I could be of more help
no worries mate . ill get an order sorted with rock auto . hopefully the same parts are used for the xj diesel
xjjeeper I'll do some digging as well to see if I can't find anything
And if rock autos shipping is more than $30, let me know. Ujoints are light, I can ship some to you if needed
xjjeeper assuming they're the same ujoint
You intentionally skipped over the drama of getting the Caran joint apart. Look like you also skipped over some assembly woes. I got stuck today on a cardan joint that didn't want to come apart and wanted to make sure I was doing it correctly. Everything I'm see says, yes, yes I was doing it correctly.
Someone from a Cherokee might fit the Ranger right
7:44 what's the black collar son the end? looks like rubber. Mine is just a metal piece.
dust boot. hard part to find
I remember doing this at night during a blizzard on my plow truck.. I wish i knew why ford finds it necessary to use cardan joints...
A short shaft makes the angles steeper, leading to vibration. Every time the drive shaft rotates, the shaft has to accelerate and decelerate. The double cardan does this inside itself.
you can rebuild the centering yoke for about half the price of buying a new one
MrMrsregor correct you can, however most yokes, especially around the rust belt get pretty hammered and aren't so useable.
Also, the one we are using is a perfect crossover from ACDelco and only costs $35. Which is on average only $15 more than the ball+spring rebuild kit for the yokes
If it's apart, might as well just throw in a new one if possible.
But you're correct, you can rebuild them yes
cool, good to know. thanks for all of your great videos. love the hat too
MrMrsregor Thank you very much!
And yes, the hat rocks! Sadly the maker of them no longer is in business.
Hey you forgot the most important piece of information regarding greaseable U-joints. THE JOINT MUST BE INSTALLED IN A MANNER THAT WHILE DRIVING FORWARD THE TORQUE COMPRESSES ON THE GREASE FITTING. YOU DONT WANT TORQUE PULLING ON THE FITTING, THIS WILL CAUSE IT TO BREAK
jim gaffney this is very true! However, we installed sealed ujoints so we didn’t have to cover that part lol
But you are indeed correct!
same part numbers for a tj i would imagine. is that correct?
Coltan Vollrath should be the same 1310 ujoint
Ok thanks!
hi mate l was wondering if you could help me l have a 2005 Jeep Cherokee and when l pull away and turn l am getting a vibration and a squeaking on the front end . and when reversing the back end is jerking around was told its right coz of the diff in it ? l am only new to jeeps please can you help thanks nick
It shouldn't be jerking or vibrating
I'd check the rear end for any damage, unless you have a locker
And the front end sounds like possibly worn hubs or bushings
Jack it up and start moving stuff, see what's loose
+Raffi Kassardjian
thank you for your help . can you tell me if you know the long track rod end with a curve in the bar . if the bushes on that are gone would that cause the problem thx nick
+nigel green that's your track bar, if the bushings are gone, then that means you're experiencing a minor "death wobble" factor while moving or hitting a bump.
Change that and make sure everything is tight
+Raffi Kassardjian
thanks again mate l am going to check it all out in the next few days days a will let you know how l get on thx nick
@KSuspension... You speeded-up through the disassembly process. Bad Dog!! -- THAT is what I'm having trouble with. You skipped it.
What are you stuck on? It’s pretty self explanatory.
If you need some guidance or extra assistance, email us and we’ll do what we can
suspensionlifts@gmail.com
Im sorry, but that tapping could have still thru them bearings out. You could have held the joint under part way in while tapping and not risk losing anything
Do yourself a favor, next time buy or rent a ball joint press. Clamp it in a vice and use it to press the joints out and back in. Makes it super easy and no pounding with a hammer.
Point of the video was to show how to do it with the basics
A press is always easier
We had a 20T press behind the camera
You need a workbench homey
We have a big one now
what vehicle is this for?
monc1ne it's mainly sold for jeeps, however the concept could be used for almost any vehicle with a similar setup
I would contact IRO for more information on cross references
ok, thanks. im wondering because on my 02 tacoma it started to make a squeak when im reversing and will start to replace u joints to see if it will fix the problem. trying to find videos to help. thanks!
monc1ne for some reason I thought this was our hack n tap video
The cardigan rebuild is for any shaft that uses ujoints
Doesn't matter the vehicle
My apologies
Ok cool works then
Please use a socket that fits perfect on the edges of the bearing cap. Otherwise you might damage the caps tapping it in with a hammer or flat shizzle having premature wear.
Also never heard of greasable UJ’s being less strong. I like to grease my UJ’s often after offroading, it only prolongs UJ’s life.
But everyone his own thoughts on it I guess.
Grease ports weaken the body casting. none greasble are the better option. The are WAYYY more resistant to water or any junk getting into them. Thats why they are more expensive.
shaine pearson Can you back that up with some proof? Appreciated!
(FYI, in all my heavy offroad endeavors not once I broke a greaseable UJ, check my channel for the abuse lol)
Usually by the time your driveshaft looks like that, the slip yoke splines are worn anyway and by the time you buy all the bearings, almost better off just buying a new shaft.
My slip yoke is making noise and looks as if its broke ... I wish I knew if I could use newer style shaft that does not have slip yoke instead its a enclosed bearing
Great video, but I'm having a hard time hearing you.
We’ve fixed the audio issues in our newer videos. Very sorry
Double Cardine Driveshafts are such fucking Junk. I had one on my bronco went bad it was a piece of shit then the one on my S-10 went to shit I hate those god damn things.
Call me old and silly .....but really like to work on a table that has a vise ...haahaa ya big dummy.
Yup, we love having a vice and table top, we usually just use our press and are finished with the job in about 10 minutes.
Terrible job... You never bang ujoint caps on with a hammer. It's likely the reason you are experiencing premature failure. Notice when you bang the second front cap on that the ujoint is cocked, you then proceed to pound on the cap with a 3lb sledge hammer. I am sure that wasn't good for the needle bearings. You always push caps on with either vise jaws or with a large C-Clamp.
Steve Hunyady thanks for the tip
My Land Rover Approved, kept breaking c-clamps, Hammer did the trick.
@@Morpheux1 Always use a vise or a press, beating on them will put the cap at an angle & will scar the needle bearings as they are pushed into the male section of the joint. Please point this out to your viewers. If you are going to TRY to teach at least be responsible. This way of BEATING them in with a hammer can & will shorten the life of the joint. I think helping is a good thing, BUT at least do a little homework & investigation into the subject matter before you warp the minds of others. I am a 40 year builder of autos & trucks, motorcycles. good luck on your project, sincerely.
actually you are fine using a hammer as long as you put something between the cap and the hammer to equal out the force. old socket piece of pipe board etc...
Your wrong, its fine to use a hammer, and it wont hurt the needle bearings at all, they take side load, meaning they are around the stub not on the end. Its also better to use sharp fast force like from a hammer, presses can and will bend the yoke if you get a stubborn one. Whereas a hammer (like an impact gun) moving the cap in fast sharp increments will not hurt the yoke. Sometimes explosive force is less damaging then steady force. It is possible to mess up the needles if you allow them to fall out of circumference around the stub but youl know if that happens right away.