87-96 Dakota Truck Bed Removal, a ONE MAN JOB!
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- čas přidán 21. 10. 2022
- Racer X Garage Episode 147: Back to work on my LS Swapped 1992 Dodge Dakota! Got to get the bed off so I can get started on preparing the frame for a new rear end and other suspension goodies. However, I don't have any help... Not to worry, it is pretty easy to remove the truck bed if you have an engine hoist!
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My son & I just swapped an 8.8 from a 2004 Sport-trac. LS, disk brakes, 4.10s onto a 1994 Dakota. It went smooth but I have a couple pointers. For the parking brake I used 2 Leftside Ford cables hooked to the Dodge cables. For the u-joint I only had to use 2 bearing caps that have the external retainers for the Ford flange to the rear on the stock size Dakota u-joint.
I cutoff the Ford shock mounts off the spring plates and welded them to the sway bar mount flanges allowing the use of the Dakota shocks in a stock location. I also used the Ford sway bar by putting a little more of a bend in the links to align with the outside of the Dakota frame. There was already a hole in the frame to bolt the sway bar links to the frame. And finally, the backside of the proportioning valve for the rear brake circuit remove the plug and heavy spring inside. Replace the spring with a lighter duty spring. If you don't do this the new rear disk brakes will hold too much residual pressure. Oh and for the matching lug pattern I used 1987 Dakota front disks. We topped it off with Torque-Thrusts and Mickey Streets. Any questions just ask. Luv the build!
To add, for the junk yard pull, get the rear axle with all the brake lines and rubber line to the chassis intact, driveshaft flange & bolts, spring u-bolt plates, sway bar, sway bar links, rear speed sensor harness plug, & left parking brake cable if it's in good shape. I used everything from a Sport-trac.
I forgot to mention the speed sensor for ABS works perfectly, and the Ford rubber hose also worked perfectly to the Dakota chassis with a little bit of filing of the hole it fits into on the chassis.
This is awesome info! thank you for the heads up!
Hell yeah brother
Do it for Dale!
This helped! thank you
Awesome! Glad to hear
Just get a twin terbo 360, with a Hemi upper, you can't put the heart of a Chevy in a Mopar 😂 sound badass though.
haha, well you can't beat this setup dollar for dollar but I know some people are die hard Mopar guys. I'm just not one
I very do need replace my bed on my 2002 dakota quad cab.
Awesome video, I was planning to save up about 1800 for a truck bed lift.
I watched an old episode of stacey David's gearz, on how to remove truck bed, plus on how to shorten a rear of truck, fro. 8foot to 6foot.
This saved me some money👍🤘
Thats an very very cool idea to cut square section an able service fuel pump.
I recommend use a seam seal,window weld rubber gasket so that removeable lid dont leak and use number 10 self tapping screws. the head on them are 10mm socket or flathead screw driver
Appreciate the feedback! Glad you didn't go out and spend all that money on a bed lift
got a love those rust free Texas trucks can't wait till it hits the track again
Im going to try to get it done before Houston Raceway closes down in April. Will be a tight schedule, but we'll give it our best!
To prevent too much up and down (I'm working on rocks and bum shoulders) do you remember the socket size needed to remove he bed bolts?
I wish I could remember, but unfortunatley I don't. If i had to guess it would be 13mm or 14mm
@@RacerXGarage No problem. Mine ended up being 14mm but needed a few taps of a hammer to push the socket over the rusty head.
if you ever have bolts that have lost mass from rust and the ( example) 14 is now loose try standard equivalent 9/16 or 13 loose try 1/2
Pausing this video often to look at the leaf spring mounting. I'd like to move my leaf springs in the same as the frame to be able to use ALL the wheel well space for some wide tires. I won't know till I get my truck but I see all-star makes weld on brackets that would place the leaf spring mounts front and rear to the bottom of the frame. I could remove my box with a come along attached to a tree limb in my back yard. But I'd like to run a 29"-30" tall MT or Hoosier radial tire - the widest possible on My Dakota on a 15x10 or wider Weld Draglite wheel. With the box off I can easily modify the tubs to at least come to the frame rails in my quest for tire clearance. The shock mounts may need relocating but I'm thinking of bolting on U bolt brackets that have a shock mount built in. For my power level the existing 8.25" will suffice. I want an 11.5 second LOOKING truck. I don't car if it's actually a 15.5 sec truck!!!!! At least for now.
Awesome! If you box the frame, there is no reason you couldnt mount the leaf springs mount inboard of the frame. I think you would have to box also if you move them under the frame. But this is one of the most simple types of chassis to do this do, I think you have a great plan and should be able to get what you want accomplished. Good luck!
You never do mention bolt sizes.Why I came here. Details like that matter. hello? Wow.
I'm pretty confident they're 14mm. Couple of them are super easy to access (especially the rear 2 by the bumper) so you can confirm.