This video shows you how to remove the bed from your old pickup. A common reason to pull the bed is to replace the fuel pump, which I will be doing in another video.
Sorry for the random flickering throughout the video. I just upgraded to an external AMD RX580 8gb gpu in my old laptop. Yes. A $200 external GPU for my 2013 hand-me-down laptop. Apparently, I overclocked a little too far and you can see some random artifacting. I didn't realize that it affected the video until watching it later and answering comments from my phone. I overclock CPUs like I do 80s-90s engines. Lol Side note, videos render quick compared to my cpu-only rendering. This 13 minute video took under 10 minutes to render at 1080p. Plus my CPU isn't maxxed out so I can actually use it while rendering videos. It runs around 30% compared to 100%. Much cooler too. She would run hot before!
If you have the room, it would be better to bring the hoist from the side and straddle a rear wheel. That way you wouldn't need the tire. If you have a short bed, you shouldn't need a tire either. My engine hoist easily picked up the bed as as far as weight goes, but the weight was pretty far forward. It would definitely pay off to have a buddy around. Good luck and be safe. 👍
Although my truck is a van, i watch and give a thumbs up. There is always something useful to learn from you Eric, and always something i can apply to my g20. Thanks again!
Thanks man. Maybe you'll use that info someday. I'm just trying to help guys work on stuff at home rather than paying a mechanic a ridiculous price. I'm getting to the Sniper TBI install and tuning, I promise. She runs awesome!
I've still got her. She's an animal. I originally removed the bed to install a higher flowing fuel pump. I've got a supercharged 355 under the hood. Maing about triple the stock horsepower. It will pass anything but a gas station. Lol. Thanks for the positive comment dude.
Not trying to be a sassy 😂 iv now done both on my 98 pulled the bed and dropped the tank. I’m my opinion the straps are way easier if your a lone wolf sorta guy. Straps are cheap but usually if u unbolt them from the frame u shouldn’t have issues. Your impact sure dose make those bolts look a lot easier to come out haha but Each their own. GOOD WORK!!!
I've had issue with straps disintegrating so I prefer to tilt the bed. I removed the bed so I could film the process of changing the fuel pump easier. If you only fully remove the driver's side, and loosen the passenger's side bed bolts, you can tilt the bed and work underneath easier. As you said, to each their own. I also tend to need to work on the fuel pump whenever my fuel tank is full. An extra couple hundred pounds of unstable weight sloshing around makes things a little more difficult.
In this video, it was Flowtech afterburner headers with a Flowtech 2½" to 3" y pipe. Cat delete. Muffler delete. Stock single 3" tailpipe. So it's basically open headers with a 3" tailpipe. I've since built a 3"-into-4" y-pipe and run it with 4" single exhaust system for a 6.5L TD.
In this video I had flowtech afterburner headers going into a flowtech y pipe. Then from there I ran single 3" straight pipe out the stock tailpipe. No cat, no muffler. Since this video, I've changed the fuel pump to a 340lph and added holley sniper fuel injection. I also made a custom y-pipe that uses 3" mandrel bent pipes into a Flowmaster y-pipe and 4" single mufflerless exhaust system from diamond eye performance. The diamond eye system is actually for a 6.5L turbo diesel but I used the back half on my gasser truck. The engine is a stock HD low compression L05 short block. It's a 4 bolt main, 1 piece rear main seal block so I can use factory roller cam parts even though the 87-95 trucks all had flat tappt cams. It had 8.4:1 compression and 190hp@4000rpm from the factory. 300ft-lbs@2400rpm. I put a Comp Cams xfi252hr cam in it. It's 252/264 advertised duration. 202/212@.050" 113lsa. .550"/.546" lift. Then I have Trick Flow super 23 175cc heads with a spring package rated for .600" lift. The rocker arms are 1.6 aluminum roller rockers. Intake manifold is an Edelbrock performer air-gap #2604. In this video I was running a cheap autozone replacement HEI distributor with vacuum advance and a stock coil. I was running a Holley 600cfm vacuum secondary 4barrel carburetor and an edelbrock 14" air cleaner with a 14x3 k&n filter. I've changed the distributor and ignition system to holley hyperspark stuff when I changed to Holley fuel injection. I also added a vortech centrifugal supercharger for carbureted socks. It's loud in this video, but it's so much louder now. When it gets into boost, it gets ridiculous. The supercharger pumps about 8.5psi at 5200rpms. Before the supercharger, Comp Cams estimated 406hp@5500 and 463ft-lbs@3500rpms. With the supercharger, I figure I'm making 600-650hp. I was going to dyno it this spring but this covid bullshit put a stop to that. I can control the fuel and spark timing with the holley fuel injection software so I can keep everything monitored much more closely than with an old school distributor and carburetor. If I was running a carb and vacuum advance distributor, I probably wouldn't run the supercharger. I could lean out way too easily or put too much timing into it and have detonation. Old school, I'd need to pull timing all the time. With my current setup, when I'm driving around town, I can have full timing in the lower rpms for better drivability and pull timing gradually when I get into boost. If you want to see any of my other stuff, I've filmed most of the installs of performance parts so they'll be on my page. She's a lot louder now with the single 4". I didn't think it would make that big of a difference. I was way wrong. I thought the BLAT sound of the exhaust when it really gets loud would raise to a higher rpm with the bigger pipes. I thought it was a function of the exhaust pipe size. It's definitely engine related. At around 2750-3000rpms is when it really starts to thunder. Above that is pretty damn loud. Especially with the supercharger!
I just used an air impact and I think it was an 18mm socket. Whatever size it was. It's been a while. Sometimes you need to use a 1/2" ratchet to break it loose and then the impact will work from there. Sometimes switching an impact from tighten to loosen a few times will break the rust free and you can work it free. It helps to spray the bolts down with penetrating oil before. . And if all else fails, use heat. I might have had to use an extension and a swivel. I don't recall.
Yes. And the hitch most likely needs to be removed to access the rear bolts. And the 3 screws for the fuel filler neck. And unplug the taillight harness at the rear.
Sorry for the random flickering throughout the video. I just upgraded to an external AMD RX580 8gb gpu in my old laptop. Yes. A $200 external GPU for my 2013 hand-me-down laptop. Apparently, I overclocked a little too far and you can see some random artifacting. I didn't realize that it affected the video until watching it later and answering comments from my phone. I overclock CPUs like I do 80s-90s engines. Lol
Side note, videos render quick compared to my cpu-only rendering. This 13 minute video took under 10 minutes to render at 1080p. Plus my CPU isn't maxxed out so I can actually use it while rendering videos. It runs around 30% compared to 100%. Much cooler too. She would run hot before!
Putting a tire between the hoist and the tailgate was smart! Definitely going to do that.
If you have the room, it would be better to bring the hoist from the side and straddle a rear wheel. That way you wouldn't need the tire. If you have a short bed, you shouldn't need a tire either. My engine hoist easily picked up the bed as as far as weight goes, but the weight was pretty far forward. It would definitely pay off to have a buddy around. Good luck and be safe. 👍
Although my truck is a van, i watch and give a thumbs up. There is always something useful to learn from you Eric, and always something i can apply to my g20. Thanks again!
Thanks man. Maybe you'll use that info someday. I'm just trying to help guys work on stuff at home rather than paying a mechanic a ridiculous price.
I'm getting to the Sniper TBI install and tuning, I promise. She runs awesome!
I hope you still have it ...it's sweet AF., WE wrench in the same style. Good. Work.
I've still got her. She's an animal. I originally removed the bed to install a higher flowing fuel pump. I've got a supercharged 355 under the hood. Maing about triple the stock horsepower. It will pass anything but a gas station. Lol.
Thanks for the positive comment dude.
Not trying to be a sassy 😂 iv now done both on my 98 pulled the bed and dropped the tank. I’m my opinion the straps are way easier if your a lone wolf sorta guy. Straps are cheap but usually if u unbolt them from the frame u shouldn’t have issues. Your impact sure dose make those bolts look a lot easier to come out haha but Each their own. GOOD WORK!!!
I've had issue with straps disintegrating so I prefer to tilt the bed. I removed the bed so I could film the process of changing the fuel pump easier. If you only fully remove the driver's side, and loosen the passenger's side bed bolts, you can tilt the bed and work underneath easier. As you said, to each their own. I also tend to need to work on the fuel pump whenever my fuel tank is full. An extra couple hundred pounds of unstable weight sloshing around makes things a little more difficult.
need that exhaust setup asap, just got my hands on a 92’
In this video, it was Flowtech afterburner headers with a Flowtech 2½" to 3" y pipe. Cat delete. Muffler delete. Stock single 3" tailpipe. So it's basically open headers with a 3" tailpipe.
I've since built a 3"-into-4" y-pipe and run it with 4" single exhaust system for a 6.5L TD.
Here is how I built this exhaust system.
czcams.com/video/a4brqi3Oas8/video.html
Here is me building my single 4" system. czcams.com/video/8sXAuQEbDCc/video.html
Hey man what kind of exhaust do you have or is that stock bc it sound a bit louder than a normal
In this video I had flowtech afterburner headers going into a flowtech y pipe. Then from there I ran single 3" straight pipe out the stock tailpipe. No cat, no muffler.
Since this video, I've changed the fuel pump to a 340lph and added holley sniper fuel injection. I also made a custom y-pipe that uses 3" mandrel bent pipes into a Flowmaster y-pipe and 4" single mufflerless exhaust system from diamond eye performance. The diamond eye system is actually for a 6.5L turbo diesel but I used the back half on my gasser truck.
The engine is a stock HD low compression L05 short block. It's a 4 bolt main, 1 piece rear main seal block so I can use factory roller cam parts even though the 87-95 trucks all had flat tappt cams. It had 8.4:1 compression and 190hp@4000rpm from the factory. 300ft-lbs@2400rpm. I put a Comp Cams xfi252hr cam in it. It's 252/264 advertised duration. 202/212@.050" 113lsa. .550"/.546" lift. Then I have Trick Flow super 23 175cc heads with a spring package rated for .600" lift. The rocker arms are 1.6 aluminum roller rockers. Intake manifold is an Edelbrock performer air-gap #2604. In this video I was running a cheap autozone replacement HEI distributor with vacuum advance and a stock coil. I was running a Holley 600cfm vacuum secondary 4barrel carburetor and an edelbrock 14" air cleaner with a 14x3 k&n filter.
I've changed the distributor and ignition system to holley hyperspark stuff when I changed to Holley fuel injection. I also added a vortech centrifugal supercharger for carbureted socks. It's loud in this video, but it's so much louder now. When it gets into boost, it gets ridiculous. The supercharger pumps about 8.5psi at 5200rpms. Before the supercharger, Comp Cams estimated 406hp@5500 and 463ft-lbs@3500rpms. With the supercharger, I figure I'm making 600-650hp. I was going to dyno it this spring but this covid bullshit put a stop to that. I can control the fuel and spark timing with the holley fuel injection software so I can keep everything monitored much more closely than with an old school distributor and carburetor. If I was running a carb and vacuum advance distributor, I probably wouldn't run the supercharger. I could lean out way too easily or put too much timing into it and have detonation. Old school, I'd need to pull timing all the time. With my current setup, when I'm driving around town, I can have full timing in the lower rpms for better drivability and pull timing gradually when I get into boost.
If you want to see any of my other stuff, I've filmed most of the installs of performance parts so they'll be on my page. She's a lot louder now with the single 4". I didn't think it would make that big of a difference. I was way wrong. I thought the BLAT sound of the exhaust when it really gets loud would raise to a higher rpm with the bigger pipes. I thought it was a function of the exhaust pipe size. It's definitely engine related. At around 2750-3000rpms is when it really starts to thunder. Above that is pretty damn loud. Especially with the supercharger!
Aren't you worried about getting a ticket from the cops for loud exhaust?
@@kenc.9067 I live in a rural area. I am careful when I go to town.
@@kenc.9067 not really lol I live in Alabama they tend to let us have sum freedom
@@earthtoboom-5888 Must be nice ... I live in a police state (R.I.) ... can't drive a mile without passing a cop
Must b nice to get bolts out that easy had 2 heat mine up only 2 came out willingly
I was very surprised! At least you knew where they bolts were from this video. Lol.
Did you have trouble lifting your bed off or did you have help?
@@EricErnst yes.6 men.
Hey what did you use to get bolts off above front spring leafs?
I just used an air impact and I think it was an 18mm socket. Whatever size it was. It's been a while.
Sometimes you need to use a 1/2" ratchet to break it loose and then the impact will work from there.
Sometimes switching an impact from tighten to loosen a few times will break the rust free and you can work it free.
It helps to spray the bolts down with penetrating oil before. . And if all else fails, use heat.
I might have had to use an extension and a swivel. I don't recall.
Great I will give it another try with swivel.
So 8 bolts total for a long box ?
Yes. And the hitch most likely needs to be removed to access the rear bolts. And the 3 screws for the fuel filler neck. And unplug the taillight harness at the rear.