S&S 55mm Intake Manifold Install on a Harley Davidson M8 Low Rider S (softail)
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- čas přidán 4. 02. 2022
- Finally did this install on my FXLRS. Pretty obnoxious to get to the bolts and what not but at least I know I don't have to do this all over again any time soon. What do you guys think? Worth it? I'm very excited to see what my new tune will be....speaking of tunes....lot's of issues and surprises going on with my current setup prompting me to switch stuff up so make sure you Subscribe to see my all new setup in a few weeks!!
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2020 Harley Davidson Low Rider S
-Low Rider Build Series Here
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I used a 1/4" ball end Allen wrench. I tapped it into the bolt heads with a dead blow hammer. This allowed me to go from trying to strip the heads, to gaining enough traction to remove the bolts. I also purchased a Lang 5530 intake wrench. It didn't provide any help with right side bolts, but it made it made loosening the left side bolts a breeze.
good to know!
Great video, Chris. I am getting ready to replace my oil pump and cam chest; while I am there, I might as well upgrade my intake.
That would be awesome. I’m still in the middle of getting more parts switched out and getting a new tune but everything points to it being a worthwhile upgrade especially for the relatively cheap price. Also nice not having plastic anymore and worrying about potential failure points even though they are rare
Dude ur videos are awesome
Aye thank you dude! 👊🏻 I really appreciate that 🤙🏼
I use 8 inch long Allen sockets with ball end on them to get to those intake bolts. Works on twin cam and m8
👍🏻
That manifold ported is good for about 6 hp a pipe and a red shift cam with a good tune through the ecm and external breather with a trax will get you 135 hp and 138 tork
Ok
Your gonna like the 10 inch risers .. that’s what I went with on fxlrs … definitely feels comfy..
Been going back-and-forth with my tuner over the past couple weeks and about to do my final installation of parts so I’ll finally get a ride and test them out but I’m pretty excited! I feel awesome already having them on the right now
Greta video bro. Thinking about putting an aftermarket air cleaner on the fatboy and came across this one. Now I might do this too. 🤷🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️😂
Thanks man. Do it!!! Might as well while you’re there
Hello, what long hexagon socket biscuit wrench do I need to unscrew the Manifold from the cylinders?
I don’t recall the size. There is a specific tool made for this setup. But I was fine with just some long inserts.
Where are you currently running the blow-by oil hose looks like you have it running to the left side of the bike where's it going to the ground?
Mhm. It runs in between the bottom jug fins and between the primary and the bike. Where the shift rod is. Just dumps to atmosphere
What saddlebags and wher can i get them? Thanks for sharing some knowledge w us
Fxr division bags abs at www.fxrdivision.com
Did you have to disconnect the spark plug cables and main fuse?
You watched everything I did. Spark plugs and main fuse have nothing to do with this install
After 10 inch I guess 14 inch will follow 😆 excellent install video.
Lol I’m done now!!! Thanks!
@@RidinDad I have been saying that for over 20 years 😆 🤣
Lolol. I know man me too. It’s a sickness. I am currently in the middle of pulling off the exhaust that’s been on that bike for maybe three months to put a different exhaust and intake on it right now so I completely understand lol
How did you get to the bolts on the rear? Ball Allen socket? Or standard hex on extensions?
Mixture of both. They sell a specific 90 degree short Allen type of tool for this too
I have an allen key that I cut the short end to get to the rear manifold bolts . and a ball allen to do the fronts
Ball end allen sockets they have mid length and long ones
👍🏻
Really interested in seeing what kind of a difference this mod makes for you on the dyno.
Unfortunately right now my bike is giving us some issues. I’m swapping out a few things and it should be better than ever. I’ll explain everything in a video lol
Moonshine Harley /APE have already done that and it fact it's a better arrangement
I paid cash for a 2023 soft tail standard and was shocked that they would put a plastic intake on an air cooled motor, so I told the dealer keep her until you put an Aluminum intake manifold on before I leave the dealer floor. I did not do this for performance...for me it was common sense. plastic never stops curing. it keeps getting harder, then becomes brittle. I can not see a plastic intake on a high dollar water-cooled motor, let alone my air/oil cooled M8.
Yeah I see your point. That’s why a lot of guys switch them out. That was part of my seap
I went with the Screaming Eagle because the S&S did not have as smooth intake. Everything else on the bike is S&S.
Yeah. Statistically the SE flows more at both ports. But I just can’t buy SE parts lol.
I put this on along with a S&S 475c cam and S&S oil pump and can plate now I’m getting codes for open 02 sensors and open ACR I’m running a FP3 tuner did you experience anything like this after install? Thanks
I did not. Have you tried clearing the codes and seeing if they come back? The fp3 tuner is garbage. I would highly suggest upgrading since you have the cam now
@@RidinDad yea I’m seriously considering a Real tune on a Dyno now. Thanks
That’s your best option man!
Does your trask filter clear plexiglass with the logo rotate when riding it? the logo keeps getting crooked on mine no matter how tight the bolts are.
Nope mine never moves. Even hard to pop out when the bracket is off the filter. Very snug. Weird issue you have :(. Sounds like the filter is maybe stretched out a tad or worn in too much or slippery? Make sure it’s super clean so it grabs the lexin disk better?
@@RidinDad yeah its bugging me, its a brand new air cleaner. It like to rotate clockwise. I think ive taken it apart and tried fixing it 4-5 times 🤣
Wow that sucks man. It would bug me too. It shouldn’t move at all. Not even close. I would reach out to Trask and hopefully they can fix the issue with it for you
@@RidinDad crappy customer service, but thanks for your fast reply. I think i have an idea on how to prevent it from moving.
Yeah :( unfortunately they’re like that some times. Good luck man!
I gotta ask, I have a 2020 LRS, did a Stage 2 at Moonshine Harley. Love the bike but I can't seem to get it to go straight down the road. Everything is aligned. Does your bike go straight down the road? does it fight you on right hand turns? Any suggestions on fork height or front end alignment? Great vids!
Thanks man! And hmmmmm….mine has tracked straight all the time. If you take the hands off of the bars there is a noticeable sort of off-balance pole due to the uneven set up of the bike with the primary sticking out on the left side and such but all you do is compensate for that with a little bit of lean to alter the balance point from left to right. Other than that turning in either left or right for curves is always been easy on mine with no fighting back on either side. So I really don’t understand what it could be. Did it do that before you went to moonshine? Or is it new since moonshine?
Also how many miles. Did you get it used? Could be an issue with the head bearing
@@RidinDad I’ve had it since new
Has it always had that issue or is it new?
@@RidinDad It has always had it, the dealer did not seem to take it very seriously so I have made sure the rear will is perfectly aligned but other than do the old school bicycle tweak on the front end I am not sure. It urns left brilliantly but wants to stand up in right hand turns. If I am going straight down the road and loosen my grip it falls hard to the left, I am factoring in road crown but even going straight it needs constant counter steer pressure which gets fatiguing after a while.......been an issue from day one. Do you happen to know where the stock height is supposed to be on the front forks?
Harley legit sells a specific wrench for the manifold bolts. But it's really just a 1/4in drive ratcheting wrench that you can put any 1/4 inch driver into. I just did mine today, without the tool. Sucked.
Yupp very true! Didn’t know about the tool but even if I did I still wouldn’t have bought it lol. Yeah it’s doable but annoying as hell
How long did it take you all together to replace it and change it and awesome video thank you👍🏆
Thanks! And with video about an hour or so? If I wasn’t taking a video maybe 40 minutes.
@@RidinDad awesome and thank you for the reply back and we'll be looking forward to your next video soon👍🏆
No problem. Appreciate it!
Great vid and info but the S&S 55mm is 230.95 from S&S and the SE 55mm is 191.95 from Harley the SE 64mm is 249.95 from Harley.
Not sure where you got your numbers or if exhaustion has set in
I thought I specified I purchased from get lowered cycles where it was 170. But it can be had from tucker speed for around the same if not cheaper if you use my discount code RIDINDAD for 10% I believe. You can never look at the manufactures direct website for cheapest prices. It’s always elsewhere
www.getlowered.com/s-s-55mm-performance-manifold-for-2017-2021-harley-m8/ $183 at get lowered right now.
tuckerspeed.com/collections/throttle-bodies-softail/products/s-s-cycle-55mm-performance-manifold-m8 $190 at tucker speed plus 10% off with my code.
The Harley site also adds tax and usually charges shipping in my experience
Bro !!! You have a broken garage door spring !! Be careful the operator is not gonna hold for long !! And great vid !
Thanks man! And yeah someone else pointed it out too lol. Been like that ever since we moved in. Still going strong! I use it like 3/5 times a day. I’ll fix it at some point lol
How come you didn’t show taking the coil side bolts out????? It’s not easy
You don’t take them out. You just loosen them.
What did you gain as far as HP & TORQUE??
New video explains all the numbers before and after. Here it is
czcams.com/video/oAg8ZxWygK0/video.html
Thank you ;)
Why did you wink at me…
@@RidinDad just saying thanks for the video :)
My pleasure man!0
Good video, terrible music. Lol
All these know it all talking about the 64mm. You are right, not needed. I talked to George at Star Racing cams and he said don't need it on the 30/30 485 lift, and I even spoke to Aaron at MSH and he agreed its not a need ...but go over 500 lift and heads, you should get the 64mm
Yeah it doesn’t really benefit at the lower lift cams. But still people will swear by it. Lol I do different music all the time. Thanks man!
@@RidinDad actually it does benefit with a 4 valve head pretty simple really , the dyno proof is enough
I’ve seen the dyno proof man. We can agree to disagree. It only helps with a higher lift cam.
@@RidinDad send it then , know all
I’m not a know it all. Never claimed I did. But thanks for all your valued input. Really helped me out a ton.
Why not use the SE manifold? It appears to have polished intake tract. Good install video.
It’s smoother yes. But I don’t like SE products. I will eventually be porting the s&s anyway
And at the time of this video the s&s had a sale and was available immediately unlike the SE. few reasons
I purchased the Screaming Eagle because I saw that the interior walls were smoother than the S&S and Fuel Moto units. I am a big S&S fan, but decided to go the other way due to the interior advantage.
S&s sells a ported version I’ll be getting that with a redshift 468 cam on top of V&H PCX 2:1 HI OUTPUT, V&H VO2 AI, and a tune, M8 FXBB
ive seen people on occasion use new seals .
ok
Look video man, that’s for sacrificing sleep, now go get some rest👍
Thanks! 🤙🏼👊🏻
hey buddy what do you think about the new 117s?
Honestly I think if you were going to get a bike anyway it’s a nice bonus but it’s definitely not worth getting super excited about. It’s just a very slight bump and for the money you can put some serious components in a 114 that perform incredibly well. It is nice that the low rider s is set apart now like the dyna was too though.
Doesn’t matter both boost up to 131 or 128 when you go big bore 💯
@@RidinDad well said
👊🏻
I just ordered one yesterday for my 475 cam 114. I’m hoping it’s worth it. My bike runs excellent as it is, but I keep seen many videos people recommending replacing it.
Yeah it’s nice getting the plastic out of there man. You’ll be happy
I put a ported one on my bike from fuel moto worth a couple more hp torque plus way better then the plastic one
Did you dyno again and confirm the extra hp?
@@RidinDad my tuner street tunes everything. But I did it take it right after cause I felt it running lean. I felt the power increase 🤷🏾♂️
What do you mean by “street tune”? So what was the power increase? Curious what difference it made. What was old and new numbers
@@RidinDad my tuner takes if out on the streets does his pulls around town to get his data then goes back and adjust AFR. More realistic variables with weather and climate then just throwing it on the dyno in a shop but downside is there is no chart that shows you numbers. But more air equals more power. Mines ported tho i wouldn’t expect much power gain from a regular 55mm due to it being the same size as the stock one . But plastic is 🗑
So how exactly does he do that? Does he have some software that he rides around with that is monitoring everything on the bike that he can notate and keep track of for when he goes back and adjust the actual software? And some dyno’s (like the one I use) Have the ability to load down with friction and such to mimic being on the actual Road against wind and everything as well instead of just rolling a barrel
Hell yea bro.. that will add like 1 hp and negative tq on a harley. 😮
Lol first of all it’s the same measurement as the original one. It’s just not plastic. Second of all you obviously have no idea what you’re speaking about in terms of performance parts and upgrades with m8 motors
@@RidinDadI have to partially agree with the dude above. I don't agree with the fact he's trying to be a demeaning prick, and he isn't correct in saying +1hp, -1tq; but... I just bought this exact manifold myself, as the factory plastic manifold shrank or warped and is leaking pretty bad. The inside of the manifold being so rough does actually hurt air flow quite a bit. Speaking only as someone who's built race engines. You really really don't want a rough intake manifold. Intake runners in the head itself should be a little rough for fuel atomization; but the inside of the manifold being rough just creates unnecessary turbulence and slows airflow, thus decreasing power.
That said, I am still going to be installing mine. I expect absolutely no performance from it whatsoever; I only expect it will last longer than the 14,000 miles the factory piece lasted 😂
@PotatoeJoe69 yes I understand this is rough and smooth is better. In the future I might be porting this. But for now it works as an upgrade from plastic.
@@PotatoeJoe69how did you know yours was leaking? My bike only has 5k miles, but a guy told me they leak on most bikes 2021+ early on.
@@lucab69 For me, I was getting bad popping on deceleration that no amount of tuning, new exhaust gaskets or exhaust changes would fix. I never even imaged it could be a leaking manifold because it's a newer bike with not too many miles. Eventually it crossed my mind, after nothing else made a difference. Got some carb cleaner and sprayed it on where the intake manifold bolts the heads ... sure enough, the engine started sputtering and dying. That's what gave it away.
Did you feel a difference in the upgrade?
No
😂
Hey how much power did you gain?
I've posted new videos with the new setup post Dyno tune. I had some issues with exhaust and had to switch it out so it's not as cut and dry as you'd hope. But theres more videos on it
@@RidinDad how can I find the video? I tried last night before commenting and couldn’t seem to find it.
I found the video, I got just about the same numbers with a 475, TBR Comp, and a SE filter. I’m debating if it’s worth doing the intake but I appreciate the help.
Yeah, the intake did not really make a difference I don’t think, but I did it more so to remove the piece of plastic and have a good piece of mind with that part and prohibit any future possible issues. It also depends on your set up, like I explained, who knows what I would have achieved with the two brothers exhaust and everything else staying the same. I might have made even more power, even though common sense typically says that that exhaust does not perform the greatest.
Thanks for the video! Next time Ditch or tone down the back ground music!
Tried that a few times. The background is more than quite enough when I’m talking. And if it’s too loud when I’m not talking you can turn it down.
@@RidinDad Thanks for the videos!
👊🏻
I just put same one on my bike it’s definitely a pain in the a$$
For sure!!! Adds to the experience at least lol
@@RidinDad I’m very curious to see how it does I did a 485 cam and the intake. Keep use posted pleas
Oooo the 485 should have some great numbers! I just got the bike back from the tuner a few days ago but it was having a bunch of issues with the current set up. I am changing out the exhaust in the air intake and bringing it back. But I’ll have a whole video are not only the new installs, but what made me change in the new numbers and everything like that as well. Very surprising Dad Home that I would’ve never assumed for sure!
@@RidinDad can’t wait to see that
Me too lol
Why not upgrade fuel injectors?
Gotta check out the rest of the channel/build series man. When I had my cam done I had 5.5 injectors put in which is way more than big enough for my hp numbers
@@RidinDad oh ok cause there was no mention in this vid ...& I was curious as to why .....did you feel the gains with the intake & injectors ??? Btw great vids
Yeah there’s never a need to upgrade The stock injectors for stock bore and cam configurations. My channel has a whole video dedicated to what I did for my “stage 2” upgrade.
I changed a few things and then changed exhausts too before the tune and after abs then tuned again. And not really any change based on just the intake manifold alone. Too much to explain on this comment but I have several videos on all of that. It’s all in my low rider s build playlist
@@RidinDad love the fxr fab calab exhaust
Ball Allen’s, extended length
Nice to meet you Mr. Allen’s. Mr. Ball Allen’s. I’m Chris
Apparently, bikes that run too hot tend to melt the plastic intakes.
Yes
What temperature would be considered too hot?
This is something that concerns me on my 2017 Ultra Limited. I noticed in the summer time, I would reach up to 289 degrees fluctuating from 268 to 289 during highway riding.
I did some things to help cool down the bike. DK customs say that doing a tank lift helps as well as running the finned permanent oil filter and it sounds like a gimmick but I have experienced significant temperature change. Now I see I'm running anywhere from 248-258 degrees when I'm on the highway.
280 is fine too. Over 300/320 in my experience is when you wanna try and lower it. The plastic intake doesn’t have a set number. Sometimes they just warp
@@d.mar.2624 the HD manual indicates that the normal operating oil temperature should be at 230*... from what I have read, when you reach operating temperatures at 270-280* you start to damage and destroy parts. I use a HD digital oil temp dipstick... so far this year, with riding temperatures in the high 70s, my oil temp would be between 217-227. this was in mild stop and go and freeway traffic. I purchased the oil cooler fan and will be installing that soon. my last bike had Love Jug fans. if my oil cooler fan does not keep the temps down, then I will be looking at their Mighty Mite fans. I avoid stop and go as much as possible.
Oil temps tire is different than engine temp. I was referring to engine temp which is monitored on my power vision constantly
why not new fuel injectors?
Because I already have 5.5’s since my cam upgrade. Gotta watch the rest of the channel and build series man
@@RidinDad is it possible and not difficult to swap fuel injectors from the rail without removing the M8 manifold ?
It might be but I highflying doubt it. It’s very cramped between the cylinders
YES because in put the fuel injectors in after the manifold .@@palmettolowlife1996
@@johnbeardsley7360 thanks !
nice one
🤙🏼
Painting black is a must
Why??
Question for you Riding Dad, does this work for humans? I know a few humans that could use a bigger intake to get more air in their "motor"!
Very good question sir, whoever you may be. I believe it does but humans are interesting. They don’t need intake replacing as much as intake stretching. I believe human skin is very elastic and this is pliable. It has the uncanny ability to form memory of its most used/needed formation. I hope this answers your question sir, whoever you might be in the whole world maybe not even the US.
Thank you so much for the quick reply sir! You answered my question to the “fullest”! I’ve never felt so “satisfied” by a service provider! I’ll continue adhere to your knowledge kind sir! Maybe one day I’ll be able to see you in this wide world of riding.
😂😂😂
Think you might have made a bigger HP difference if you had polished it.
Potentially
You're spring is broken on your garage door
Someone else told me too lol I know
please get back and say if it makes a difference.
I have more recent videos. One of which I took the bike with its new setup including this intake manifold and I made much less power than I originally thought I would. I have changed exhausts again and went back and made about the same as I was making with my tbr exhaust and plastic intake. I now have another new exhaust but haven’t been back to get another tune yet. Please watch my more recent videos as there’s many updates around what you’re looking for
@@RidinDad ok
Ball ‘
Huh?
Waste of time and money... should have done the 64/64🤦🏽♂️
I felt 64mm was too big for my cam. My cam is still a drop in cam. Nothing super big. I could have bought one ported, yes. But I chose to go basic
@@RidinDad Aaron from Moonshine recommended the 64/64 even on my zippers 472. I think your time was worth more than saving $250. Thanks for the video👍🏽
Appreciate the insight. I went with what felt was the best option at the time