Volvo Time Bomb Fixed - No Crank, No Start
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- čas přidán 22. 03. 2023
- This 2011 Volvo S60 would not crank over sometimes and sometimes it would start just fine. This is a temporary fix for a common problem with these P3 Volvos such as S80, V70, XC70, XC60, S60, and V60. It may possibly apply to Ford products of this era.
This fuse did not fail electrically, it failed mechanically.
The replacement fuse and cable splice for my car is Volvo part # 31412136. Verify fitment for your application.
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Thanks for video Pepper moon. That's exactly what happened in April to my 2011 XC70. Emergency road guy didn't recognise the issue at scene, neither did my own volvo mechanic over the phone. Cost for flatbed tow home and subsequent repair using another fuse was a lot.
If need be or you are stranded, and no jumper leads, undo the 13mm nut at the cable and fuse and hold the (after fuse) end of the cable against the battery terminal while someone inside starts the car. At least you can get home. The gap appears not to be able to be soldered. If going for an OE option fuse, you'll need at least 150amp. A problem with this fuse can also cause alternator and charging errors
I've been working cars for a long time and this is the newest one I have had a major problem with. I had to ignore all of the potential computer related issues and concentrate on old-school basic troubleshooting techniques to find this. I have scanners to troubleshoot the computer side,, but it did not throw any codes to work with. Thanks for watching and your comment.
Thanks for the tip . I got this problem after changing the fly wheel , starter relais everything was oke . I checked the cable thanks a lot.
Thanks! This just happened to my 2011 Volvo XC70 3.2.
Can't believe I fixed this without crawling under the car. Thought for sure it would be some corroded cable on the starter or similar. I was able to break the fusible link apart, beat it flat and pinch it under the flange nut to get home.
Thanks again!
Nice "trail fix"!
U saved me man, I greatly appreciate it if I didn’t know this if probably buy a new starter😂. Greatly appreciate this, I had the same issue and talked with my Volvo tech friend. Just going to splice on a new terminal with space for the auxiliary cable and fix it
Nice! I was pulling my hair out trying to figure it out. The worst thing is it would start, then not start, then start. I had no trust in the car. The fix was it. Thanks for watching.
Brilliant video.
This happened to me today.
I traced it back to the fuse...
Exactly as you said.
I welded up... £112 for a fuse..
Crazy...
Works great now
I hadn't thought of welding/soldering the fuse for a fix. That's a good idea.
I had this issue intermittently and it left me stranded a couple times. I fixed it by changing the battery cable terminals with Brass ones. apparently the factory terminals tend to get weak conductivity over time as if they are mead of Lead and not Iron.
Thanks this was really helpful I did same and it’s work for me
Good to hear, thanks for the feedback!
Thank you so much 👍🙏
I hope it helped, cheers!
It seems to me that I hold the power button until it starts, but it doesn't start, do you know what it could be?
I also hade this problem. Why a fuse in the cable?
Im having a situation on a P2 V70 a 2007 2.4D where its an intermittent no crank where the starter solenoid isnt getting the +12V to engage the starter motor.
Everything between the contacts in the ignition switch and the engine ECU is working reliably ive established that:
When you go to crank the car 10/10 times turning the ignition switch into Position 3 does what its intended to do in the electrical system except engage the starter motor.
Thats where it becomes tricky:
There is a big 70 amp relay in the engine compartment relay box and a corresponding fuse which switches power to the starter solenoid.
The coil of that relay is wired to the engine ECU according to wiring diagrams.
So worst case szenario:
The ECU has an internal fault on the two output pins sending power to the starter relay.
I really hope thats not the case because im not buying a new ECU for that car.
Best I can do is swap it for a good used one if I can find one that has the correct programming on it because flashing an ECU is out of my league.
A new relay is on the way and I will double check every connection.
I should also buy a good code reader since there might be a fault code stored which would be a good lead at least since there COULD be an intermittent issue elsewhere with the immobilizer or some antenna module according to forums.
Good luck with your fix attempts. You could also possibly bypass the relay with a jumper for testing purposes. An ECU fault seems possible, but unlikely. FWIW, ECUs typically ground circuits rather than provide power. I would look into testing the battery condition, park/neutral switch, immobilizer issues before replacing the ECU. A good scanner is a great investment that will pay for itself over time.
Great video! Thank you! I used a couple of zip ties to keep both sides tight together and it's been working but I'll try to find out the part # for both ends the one to the starter and the other one which goes towards the driver's side fender. Just in case. Do you happen to know their part#? thanks again!
Glad the video helped you out. It's a hard problem to diagnose. The part number for the car I have is Volvo part # 31412136, which is the one to the starter. I'm not sure about the other one.
@@peppermoongarage for anyone out there who has trouble with the other fused + red cable which goes to the firewall its part # 31412217 👌Thanks again peppermoon !!! 🙏
I was gonna ask tho, could I just use this temp fix
The temp fix should be fine. The fuse is to protect that starter cable from shorting out in the event of a severe crash.
@@peppermoongarageI was able to mount a 150 amp fuse to the new wire, maybe I’ll keep it like this
Is it a safe fix to connect it directly without a fuse?
It is better to replace it with the proper fuse. This is just a temporary fix.
WHATS THIS PART CALLED ? THINK IM HAVING THE SAME ISSUE
They are calling it a battery cable fuse. amzn.to/3Y112P5
What could be damaged for permanently bypassing the fuse like you did?
Good question. That cable goes only down to the starter. I think the fuse is there to protect against a short circuit/sparks/fire in the event of a major collision. I would recommend replacing it with a fuse as a permanent fix.
Not much at all apart from burning a car to the ground if that positive cable was to short to chassis anywhere. Removing positive terminal fuses should he treated only as a TEMPORARY solution to get you home. BTW your home may burn down as well.
Most cars on the road do not have a fuse on the wire from battery positive to starter or alternator. So your suggestion is a bit like a sensationalised news story to be real. We don’t see cars randomly burning to the ground. It would take an incident or accident to cause a fire. Not normal use.
@@klimenz Don't be such a drama queen, 30 yrs of being an auto sparky and Ive never seen a fuse for starter, Every vehicle Ive worked on it is direct battery positive to starter solenoid, ether remote or on starter,
To OP, On my Volvo my alt is to the starter batt feed, so if same thing happens to mine I will get alt charge fault.
I wana know if that fix was able to be permanent or did u end up getting the fuse?
I left it as I showed, but a fuse would be better.
@@peppermoongaragewhy is a fuse better?? I daily this guy and I need it to start more than anything any crashing safety feature I honestly don’t mind,
Was it clicking trying to start, or totally dead ? Thanks.
@MegredyPhotoStudio , Thanks for the good question, It sounded like the starter relay engaged with a single clunk. My diagnostics tool showed it was drawing 80 amps while attempting to start. The battery would go dead after several attempts. It must have been partially connected, but not enough to fully power the starter. It would start sometimes, but not others due to this. I even replaced the starter before finding this. There have been no issues since the fix in the this video.
@@peppermoongarage thank you for the quick response. My volvo started doing this. At first was starting after a few attempts, now nothing. Occasionally turning the key will start just fine. Replaced the ignition switch, no honey 🤣. I will have to look into this fuse. Need to buy a multimeter. Thanks again !
@@peppermoongarageIf we did not replaced this fuse, is it possible the battery likely to drain faster? I have my V40 here that need me to push button twice before it really can start....Pushing the button for the 1st time won't start my engine....🤔
I would not think so. The only current through this cable is to the starter.
@@peppermoongarage i have replaced the starter. Fixed. Cheers!
Idk, i have like clicking sound?
That means not enough power is making it to the starter. So could easily be the exact same issue but less developed.
Is this FORD “engineering? Or Chinese? More than stupid!
More like Ford accounting, lol. All to save 3 cents per car.