You are a champion. Had to get the volvo xc70 diesel towed home from the country. Mechanic (phone) and road repair guy at scene said likely starter motor. I was able to start the car at home using your method and will save a tow fee getting it to mechanic to replace fusible link cable. Thank you!
I am Glad it was a help 😄 I have over a thousand repair videos to upload to this channel but life took a big chunk of my PEACE and put me on a rollercoaster for some time... 😀 I'm slowly collecting myself as one piece again. All I can say is this Journey (🧬 life) is just interesting 🤣🤣
I had this issue on a p3 s80. Instead of buying the entire cable. I physically broke the fuse off drilled two holes of its metal plates for each end and put a cheapo 5 dollar 150a fuse with two short nuts/bolts. It's been working fine 2 years later.
Same issue with my V40, lately need me to use push button twice before it can start (press button for the 1st time then only click sound heard from starter). But if I'm charging my battery to full charging, the car can easily start. I thought about my battery lifespan is done for, so I've tried to replaced a new battery, it did well until 6@7 months using it still got this hard start/crank issue. Probably need to do some modification on these fuse, or worst need to replace a new starter cable...😄 By the way, you are definitely a Volvo's master, so thanks man!...👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
@@barakzai90 Sure, will look for some current leakage at 1st place. But I'll look into other possibility like starter relay circuit issue, faulty push button, or bad starter@cable too. Anyway, thanks for ya advice!....👍🏼
Thanks ill have to check this out. I jave an older c60 that had a weird starting issue since i got it. Like 1/6 times it would sound like the battery was dying--it wasn't getting enough juice.
I have a similar thing with my c. 20 year old S60. Starts when it wants. Stepping on the gas while turning the key helps sometimes. Had the fuel pump relay switched and things worked fine for about a week. Let me know how your experiments went, I am shit when it comes to auto repair :D
@EverybodyBurts I couldn't recreate any problems with my starter fuse link after testing with a multimeter. Maybe I should try with a carbon pile load tester but my fuse link isn't design in a way it can mash up against something like on this video. I'm suspecting the high voltage ballasts for the headlights now. I was riding with one burned out headlight and it was really bad for that week. I replaced the bulb and it was almost good again, like 5/6 good starts.
Great video. I was actually looking for a solution to the "low battery" message fix when I came across your video. My car starts just fine but the low battery message won't go away. I unplugged the BMS sensor and plugged it back in. Maybe I'm missing something. I don't know.
Part number 31376603 fuse. B+ battery cable for the starter motor. Note: VOLVO isn't selling the whole cable from the Starter all the way to the battery. They offer Cable about one foot long that comes with a new fuse and a sleeve to cut the old one and attach the new one to it but you are gonna need a good wire cramper
Disconnect the fuel line and make sure it is getting fuel. If there's no fuel flu when you cycle the ignition, check the fuel pump related fuse and relay. If they are Good then the motor for the pump is out of service. In other Cases, the Spark plugs are compromised and a set of new spark plugs will take care of the issues. Quick Hint: Spray throttle body Cleaner into the air duct while someone is cranking the engine. if it begins to run while the spray cleaner is getting into the combustion chamber, it means that there's an issue with the fuel delivery system. If the fuel system checks out okay, make sure to check the mass airflow sensor for bugs or micro insects, give it a good cleaning service and reinstall it. Let us know what you come up with!
That's negative. The Negative side has the Battery management sensor only and they hardly ever go bad. Except for Honda that had recall on those sensors, the rest of the brands are pretty much trouble free.
If it is Cranking but won't fire up! I'd check and see if your voltage is where it's supposed to be, if the Voltage less the desired range... It will prevent a startup. 2- check your Fuel pressure if the intake Low pressure pump motor is actually engaging by either listening to it, disconnecting to the fuel line or as simple as spaying throttle body cleaner through the AIR DUCT while someone else is cracking the vehicle... If the engine begins to crank up and keep running, you are looking into two (2) possible scenarios, one is swapping the fuel pump relay with Horn relay (a known good relay) and that makes it the difference, you will know that the intake Low pressure pump motor works. If it didn't make a difference, I'd check the fuel pump motor operation. This is all without using any type of diagnostic Scan tools. A bad knock sensor will prevent an engine from startup. A bad fuel pressure sensor will prevent an engine from startup. A dirty MAF mass Air flow sensor will prevent an engine from startup. A throttle body motor stuck in the on position will prevent an engine from startup. And a few other things... Let me know what you come up with 🫡
Check the condition of your battery, The key to a proper diag is to ensure the 12 volt battery is good and it is stable. And that the alternator is putting out as it is designed. If you get around 13.9 to 14.5 volts when the car is running, The charging system is at its best. Anything less than that, will cause all kinds of communication issues with communication codes stored in the system
Since the alternator has a built-in voltage regulator, You can disconnect the terminals from the battery if your car continues to run without any suffocations or changes in the way it idles, your alternator is good and that is one method of checking the alternator if you do not have the proper tools to check the condition of the alternator.
So I have 2011 S60 T6 and the exact same noise happens trynna start. If I don't turn it off within several seconds you can see smoke come out of the starter.... So do you think the smoke w chemical smell pretty much tells me that the starter is bad? Also should I get a fusible link anyways to be safe or does that not smoke ?
Thank you! Got the same issue , you helped me out!
You are a champion. Had to get the volvo xc70 diesel towed home from the country. Mechanic (phone) and road repair guy at scene said likely starter motor. I was able to start the car at home using your method and will save a tow fee getting it to mechanic to replace fusible link cable. Thank you!
I am Glad it was a help 😄
I have over a thousand repair videos to upload to this channel but life took a big chunk of my PEACE and put me on a rollercoaster for some time... 😀 I'm slowly collecting myself as one piece again.
All I can say is this Journey (🧬 life) is just interesting 🤣🤣
Thanks for your time make video! You best ! Спасибо большое 😊
Spot on! 👌🏻
I had this issue on a p3 s80. Instead of buying the entire cable. I physically broke the fuse off drilled two holes of its metal plates for each end and put a cheapo 5 dollar 150a fuse with two short nuts/bolts. It's been working fine 2 years later.
Same issue with my V40, lately need me to use push button twice before it can start (press button for the 1st time then only click sound heard from starter). But if I'm charging my battery to full charging, the car can easily start. I thought about my battery lifespan is done for, so I've tried to replaced a new battery, it did well until 6@7 months using it still got this hard start/crank issue.
Probably need to do some modification on these fuse, or worst need to replace a new starter cable...😄
By the way, you are definitely a Volvo's master, so thanks man!...👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Check the battery and it's condition first!
@@barakzai90 Sure, will look for some current leakage at 1st place. But I'll look into other possibility like starter relay circuit issue, faulty push button, or bad starter@cable too.
Anyway, thanks for ya advice!....👍🏼
Thanks it helped
You're welcome!
Do you have a part number for this cable? Thanks in advanced!
Great !
Thanks ill have to check this out. I jave an older c60 that had a weird starting issue since i got it. Like 1/6 times it would sound like the battery was dying--it wasn't getting enough juice.
Dang. Seems like it might not be that easy. I poked it with my multimeter on and I kept a solid 12v on it even when I wiggled it pretty good.
I have a similar thing with my c. 20 year old S60. Starts when it wants. Stepping on the gas while turning the key helps sometimes. Had the fuel pump relay switched and things worked fine for about a week. Let me know how your experiments went, I am shit when it comes to auto repair :D
@EverybodyBurts I couldn't recreate any problems with my starter fuse link after testing with a multimeter. Maybe I should try with a carbon pile load tester but my fuse link isn't design in a way it can mash up against something like on this video.
I'm suspecting the high voltage ballasts for the headlights now. I was riding with one burned out headlight and it was really bad for that week. I replaced the bulb and it was almost good again, like 5/6 good starts.
@@MrNoobed Does your Volvo also have a "check lamp" -kinda noticecode that won't go away even if the lamps are working fine?
@@EverybodyBurts It used to, then the bulb went out completely. It's been clear since I replaced it.
Great video.
I was actually looking for a solution to the "low battery" message fix when I came across your video.
My car starts just fine but the low battery message won't go away.
I unplugged the BMS sensor and plugged it back in. Maybe I'm missing something. I don't know.
Glad to hear that ☺️
Hi what happend if i put direct this cable without fuse? Ive this problem with my s60 t6
Nothing will happen. It is over engineered to prevent the what if this fails or what if that may fail..
Do you know the part number of that fuseble link?
Part number 31376603 fuse. B+ battery cable for the starter motor.
Note: VOLVO isn't selling the whole cable from the Starter all the way to the battery.
They offer Cable about one foot long that comes with a new fuse and a sleeve to cut the old one and attach the new one to it but you are gonna need a good wire cramper
I have the s40 just cranks won’t start 07
Disconnect the fuel line and make sure it is getting fuel.
If there's no fuel flu when you cycle the ignition, check the fuel pump related fuse and relay. If they are Good then the motor for the pump is out of service.
In other Cases, the Spark plugs are compromised and a set of new spark plugs will take care of the issues.
Quick Hint: Spray throttle body Cleaner into the air duct while someone is cranking the engine. if it begins to run while the spray cleaner is getting into the combustion chamber, it means that there's an issue with the fuel delivery system.
If the fuel system checks out okay, make sure to check the mass airflow sensor for bugs or micro insects, give it a good cleaning service and reinstall it.
Let us know what you come up with!
Does the cable to the negative also have a fuse?
That's negative.
The Negative side has the Battery management sensor only and they hardly ever go bad.
Except for Honda that had recall on those sensors, the rest of the brands are pretty much trouble free.
Спасибо попробую
пожалуйста. это срабатывает каждый раз.
It’s cranking but not starting, what does it mean?
If it is Cranking but won't fire up! I'd check and see if your voltage is where it's supposed to be, if the Voltage less the desired range... It will prevent a startup.
2- check your Fuel pressure if the intake Low pressure pump motor is actually engaging by either listening to it, disconnecting to the fuel line or as simple as spaying throttle body cleaner through the AIR DUCT while someone else is cracking the vehicle... If the engine begins to crank up and keep running, you are looking into two (2) possible scenarios, one is swapping the fuel pump relay with Horn relay (a known good relay) and that makes it the difference, you will know that the intake Low pressure pump motor works. If it didn't make a difference, I'd check the fuel pump motor operation.
This is all without using any type of diagnostic Scan tools.
A bad knock sensor will prevent an engine from startup.
A bad fuel pressure sensor will prevent an engine from startup.
A dirty MAF mass Air flow sensor will prevent an engine from startup.
A throttle body motor stuck in the on position will prevent an engine from startup.
And a few other things...
Let me know what you come up with 🫡
Are there other symptoms apart from no start. Mine seems to lack enough voltage to even eject the key fob
Check the condition of your battery, The key to a proper diag is to ensure the 12 volt battery is good and it is stable.
And that the alternator is putting out as it is designed.
If you get around 13.9 to 14.5 volts when the car is running, The charging system is at its best. Anything less than that, will cause all kinds of communication issues with communication codes stored in the system
Since the alternator has a built-in voltage regulator, You can disconnect the terminals from the battery if your car continues to run without any suffocations or changes in the way it idles, your alternator is good and that is one method of checking the alternator if you do not have the proper tools to check the condition of the alternator.
You seem to have a battery that is going out of service
@@barakzai90 Tried with a different battery. Same issue. Im advised that i may have a bad ground or failed fusible link
If you are still getting slower cracking up then you properly need to install a new starter.
The Starter motor is more likely tired already
Are you active and local to NY ?
I'm in GA now
So I have 2011 S60 T6 and the exact same noise happens trynna start. If I don't turn it off within several seconds you can see smoke come out of the starter.... So do you think the smoke w chemical smell pretty much tells me that the starter is bad? Also should I get a fusible link anyways to be safe or does that not smoke ?