Your series is really helping me out I just had an issue with my 115's carbs chock spring and your video showed me how to correctly place the spring. Thank You.
Those carbs were used on many Mercury outboards. They are very reliable and parts are still easily sourced. I've rebuilt many of them on the 2 and 4 cylinder Mercs from the 50's thru the 70's. Simple hose barbs from the hardware store and modern fuel rubber type fuel line make for a modern conversion that will resist the damaging properties of E10 fuel. The carb floats as found in your engine usually are E10 resistant. If memory serves correctly, the Quicksilver parts are genuine Mercury and I have had success using those fuel pump kits with E10 gas. You probably already know this information, but I wanted to contribute something to your video as a thank you for covering so much detail in every one of your projects. As always, the repair manual for your Merc is a valuable source for every service procedure. I used to own most of them but I have scaled back on outboard repair. Your local library should have a service manual on their shelf. It sure saves time and money when you need a one time reference book. Again, you probably already know this. Maybe my information will help someone in the future. Thanks again for your vast variety of videos!
Thank you very much for your detailed and insightful comment. I've finished the re-plumbing of the fuel system, and ended up doing it exactly as you suggested (not much choice, those funky hoses are obsolete). I read some where the oldest floats were cork, and that earlier generation plastic ones (off whitish or yellowish color) were prone to leaking. Last night I was testing the ignition system on the motor to make sure the trigger is okay, and it seems okay, but the timing is way out……I'll try moving the belt one tooth.
In my dealing with Mercury parts I have come to believe that those funky factory fuel lines and fittings were nothing more than a way to make sure you had to come back to Mercury for the correct parts. I find no other reason for making a fuel line setup so elaborate. I'm kind of cynical when it comes to Mercury "one off" parts because compared to OMC, Mercury had more special tools and parts when a simple design would do the job. Later Mercury engineering actually is similar to OMC! Carl Kiekhaefer was the Mercury top dog and he had some quirky ways of doing things in the early days that seemed to take forever to change and catch up with OMC. Just my opinion after 20 years of working on outboards.
Hey Steve I have a 1970 Mercury outboard 135 I brought it from a guy and he had it sitting for 25 years are pretty much followed the steps of what you done in this video I clean the carburetors put new fuel lines Sheila diaphragm so I took it out on the lake for the first time and the first time it act like it was starving for fuel but when you pump the primer where it would get up and go so this last time I took it out I change the last time friend cuz only change one the first time so this time when I took it out are pretty much did the same thing but the opposite is pumped the ball then it try to shut off so it's starving for fuel or something I'm still trying to figure out what I changed all the lines could the vacuum lines going into the crankshaft would that have anything to do with it those are the only things that I didn't replace and also when I give it gas it just stalls so I have to like wrap it up and get it in gear to go then once I got it more than half throttle it runs fine but when I slow it all the way down it just shuts off what do you think that is
I think I recall having issues with the fuel line to the tank. That primer bulb has a check valve inside that can fail. Also, those quick disconnects have small o rings in them that can fail and allow the system to lose prime, or suck in air.
@@stevewatr thank you Steve I figured it out I took it out this weekend I change the top fuel line on the carburetor it was cracked it was the original line after that it ran fine thank you so much
lol, Thanks Paul, bone headed editing mistake on my part. Part 20 will be up in a few days……another CR250 video is next. I'll try and fix the end title.
Any chance you have a part for the power trim? I lost my Reservoir screw in cap. I can't run without and I am stuck finding it...Part number is 19-99609a1 Plug Assembly - I would really appreciate it if you have one
Your series is really helping me out I just had an issue with my 115's carbs chock spring and your video showed me how to correctly place the spring. Thank You.
Those carbs were used on many Mercury outboards. They are very reliable and parts are still easily sourced. I've rebuilt many of them on the 2 and 4 cylinder Mercs from the 50's thru the 70's. Simple hose barbs from the hardware store and modern fuel rubber type fuel line make for a modern conversion that will resist the damaging properties of E10 fuel. The carb floats as found in your engine usually are E10 resistant. If memory serves correctly, the Quicksilver parts are genuine Mercury and I have had success using those fuel pump kits with E10 gas. You probably already know this information, but I wanted to contribute something to your video as a thank you for covering so much detail in every one of your projects. As always, the repair manual for your Merc is a valuable source for every service procedure. I used to own most of them but I have scaled back on outboard repair. Your local library should have a service manual on their shelf. It sure saves time and money when you need a one time reference book. Again, you probably already know this. Maybe my information will help someone in the future. Thanks again for your vast variety of videos!
Thank you very much for your detailed and insightful comment. I've finished the re-plumbing of the fuel system, and ended up doing it exactly as you suggested (not much choice, those funky hoses are obsolete). I read some where the oldest floats were cork, and that earlier generation plastic ones (off whitish or yellowish color) were prone to leaking. Last night I was testing the ignition system on the motor to make sure the trigger is okay, and it seems okay, but the timing is way out……I'll try moving the belt one tooth.
In my dealing with Mercury parts I have come to believe that those funky factory fuel lines and fittings were nothing more than a way to make sure you had to come back to Mercury for the correct parts. I find no other reason for making a fuel line setup so elaborate. I'm kind of cynical when it comes to Mercury "one off" parts because compared to OMC, Mercury had more special tools and parts when a simple design would do the job. Later Mercury engineering actually is similar to OMC! Carl Kiekhaefer was the Mercury top dog and he had some quirky ways of doing things in the early days that seemed to take forever to change and catch up with OMC. Just my opinion after 20 years of working on outboards.
Ramblin Man lol, I'm the most cynical guy I know, so I tend to agree with your analysis, but would add I also think they were designed to leak!
Do those fuel pump kits work for the earlier Mercury 700 6 cyl? 1961 I believe?
Sorry, I don't know
Hey Steve I have a 1970 Mercury outboard 135 I brought it from a guy and he had it sitting for 25 years are pretty much followed the steps of what you done in this video I clean the carburetors put new fuel lines Sheila diaphragm so I took it out on the lake for the first time and the first time it act like it was starving for fuel but when you pump the primer where it would get up and go so this last time I took it out I change the last time friend cuz only change one the first time so this time when I took it out are pretty much did the same thing but the opposite is pumped the ball then it try to shut off so it's starving for fuel or something I'm still trying to figure out what I changed all the lines could the vacuum lines going into the crankshaft would that have anything to do with it those are the only things that I didn't replace and also when I give it gas it just stalls so I have to like wrap it up and get it in gear to go then once I got it more than half throttle it runs fine but when I slow it all the way down it just shuts off what do you think that is
I think I recall having issues with the fuel line to the tank. That primer bulb has a check valve inside that can fail. Also, those quick disconnects have small o rings in them that can fail and allow the system to lose prime, or suck in air.
@@stevewatr thank you Steve I figured it out I took it out this weekend I change the top fuel line on the carburetor it was cracked it was the original line after that it ran fine thank you so much
What kind of carbs are they
I have a 1980 115 tower of power and today my top carb was leaking gas.. expensive fix?
May just be a flooded float. Take all three out and see if any of them are filling up with gas. If so, replace them.
hmm starts as Part 19, ends as Part 23, is it the vids 19-23 inclusive?
lol, Thanks Paul, bone headed editing mistake on my part. Part 20 will be up in a few days……another CR250 video is next. I'll try and fix the end title.
Great resurrection videos keep them coming
What year engine is this??
1972 as I recall.
Organize your videos please. Scrolling through 5 years of videos to find this series is heartbreaking
All the tower of power videos are in a playlist.
Any chance you have a part for the power trim? I lost my Reservoir screw in cap. I can't run without and I am stuck finding it...Part number is 19-99609a1 Plug Assembly - I would really appreciate it if you have one