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Same issue on my Ford tractor. I marked (just in case!) and turned the adjuster plate on top of the centre bobbin to put more load on the spring, (in other words used a wider diameter of the cam) and the voltage then increased to around 13.1V with the engine running at working speed. I reckon that's good enough, we'll see. If not, it's just €35 and 20 minutes fitting for a brand new unit, so no biggie.

The VFO will also need heater power for the tubes..

Like to sell the Hp an̈ CB's?

Itsthe metering diaphragm that loses flexibility not the pumping diaphragm. The metering diaphragm should be like a cotton T-shirt.

I just grind my feeler gauge to fit

Thanks, great video!

Thanks 🙏🏼

Love to see what you got and hear what you paid!!!!!!!!

Thanks... great job...

Bad timeing from aftermarket cilinder.

I buy these all the time and Dorman makes frame sections for the frame

And yes you are correct about that engine, plagued with timing probs from the start,blowing plugs ,yes

Ya ,we don't see rust like that out o. The Westcoast, unless it came from out east.

😊 like and comment, nice video thank you

Well Steve looks like quite a mess underneath, I sure hope he didn't pay much for that truck. Good luck, and I hope that engine is good, looking forward to the next installment of this saga.

It seems like Ford pairs their best _looking_ vehicles with their worst choices _mechanically._ I wasn't a fan of the Ford F150 redesign following the heels of the Dodge '94 redesign, but by this point the trucks looked decent. Mechanically though, between the early Modulars physically throwing plugs and requiring helicoils, later ones' plugs breaking off in their bores when trying to replace them, plus the slew of other issues, it's just a shame that they couldn't pair something mechanically reliable with something that looked good. I had a '93 Thunderbird with the 3.8, was my first car. It blew a head gasket and by that point it was mechanically totaled since it wasn't worth the cost of an engine swap and any direct replacement would have been just as failure-prone. Again, nice _looking_ car, mechanically very much problematic.

your video calls it an '07 but your description and title says '97...

Thanks! Helped me re-clock my caliper. Much appreciated.

I wonder if you have air leaching into the fuel???

I always enjoy what you find out there Steve thanks for the video.

Is it the vapor canister purge valve?

If u get a cheaper ring wrench cut a slot in it so it will go over the lines and onto the nut under the line nut ...u can actually buy line wrenchs for that job ...that engine is a Japanese Perkins made under license from Perkins which is now owned buy cat go figure..

That comes from turning the motor off and on all the time. Very poor design. Wire a switch in that turns the motor on all the time and leave it on. Just use the lever to move the ram and let the dam motor run. Even the foot switch mod will result in motor problems eventually.

Score!

"Do as I say, not as I do" Words of wisdom passed from my father to me, and from me to my children....

That is one beautiful tool box Steve. Has anything been done at the Joel estate?

It runs with no battery. Several reasons why starter motor might not work but pull start will. People drive atvs in remote places and you don't want to walk home..

When the pump is in place is there some pressure on the rack(from one of the pistons that is not evident when you release the housing? also, can you use a small strong magnet on a stick to pull the rack through the hole the solonoid goes in to reset?

I like your video, but it is not about column removal. It should be titled column repair.

Hey Steve I have a yerf dog go kart with all the wiring missing and I'm trying to rebuild the wiring can you help me ?

Thanks Steve, Mine is a 505-637 and just for fun I cut a strip of soda can just to get a feel for the teeth location and when I felt it bind up I stopped. Sounds crude however I closed the caliper and it when 180 degrees from 3 o clock to 9 o clock. Tried it a second time with less presser and closed the caliper and was dead on 12 o clock. How luck did I get. Thanks for the tip. Never loosened the jib screws or anything. Now I need to inspect the rack with the stereo scope as it has a weird feel at .350 but still measures nicely. Thanks

There is a very quick way to do this (though probably a bit of a bodge!) If, as with mine the screws holding the leaf spring are too tight to remove instead of a metal shim place a small piece of sellotape over a few of the teeth on the rack. Then run the pinion over it. Check the setting. A few attempts and you can get very close to a vertical zero with minimum time, kit and effort! Note, as I am sure you know, keep the rack really clean. Tiny chips of metal can get caught in the rack's teeth gaps and cause the pinion to ride up and miss teeth. Thanks for the great video!

Как технику бережёшь , так она и служит!

Man are you safe

Alot of times it's worth it to buy those old table saws cheap just for the motors on them. I've found old contractor saws on fb marketplace for less than $100 that had Dayton or Baldor motors on them that work perfectly fine, but by themselves new cost hundreds of dollars. I now have spare motors for my table saw, band saw, etc. that would have hurt if I'd have to buy them new. The rest of those old saws just get sold for scrap steel as they really aren't worth much as a saw because most folks want new ones with riving knives or splitters so they don't have to worry about kickback. Now, my personal saw is a vintage Rockwell with no safety features whatsoever, but I have a healthy respect for it and use it properly. If you do decide to take it apart to clean it, I'd recommend getting some new sealed bearings for the arbor as you're going to have it apart anyways.

I have an 2004 artic cat 400 4x4 fis green, its the same engine as the eigar, noisy ,cold natured , and it has the fly wheel issues , I already replaced my fly wheel and stator and pickup. I have lots of water in my gas and im thinking the air vent or gas gage on top is letting water in.

this guy sucks,took forever just to get the cover off.booooo

Essentially, I have the exact same problem: I have a bunch of mystery cables, a klein cable tester/toner, but I lack the tone probe. When you cut to the Fender amp, I just about fell outta my chair. GENIUS!!! Amplifiers, I definitely do have!! You better believe I'm gonna be letting my wife know how my guitar and amp addiction is now saving us money! Thank you sir!

Good video. Tell me how hard is it to get at that screen?

Great videos. I got mine for free as they were about to recycle it. Worked for 2 1/2 months for me but is an 2007 model.

Great series. I have a similar Hitachi that just went out with same issue.

I change the stator n cdi still no spark

Thank you so much for making this video and covering all the areas that will be 'tough' to get through! Too many DIY videos these days where the dissembling process is being demonstrated with parts that were newly assembled for the sake of the video. For the removal of the cartridge - is there any way to do this *without* turning off the cold water valve? I'm in a high rise where the water is extremely hard, and valves are often completely stuck (and forcing them to close shut often results in a a leaking valve we cannot stop). The only way to turn off the water & change the valve is for the building to shut water off to the entire zone (10 floors x 12 units) and drain the water from all the floors down to your unit, and they rarely do these. Just hoping there may be a way to still change out the cartridge (!). Thank you!

Steve, Thank you for your awesome detailed videos. Extremely helpful. Also thank you for your "wire in the cylinder" trick. That was a lifesaver trying to get that fan nut off...🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻. Also, thank you for explaining about the "Decompression" gear. I didn't even know that had one till you mentioned it. Question, so to get the correct valve adjusted to proper size, you just tighten the 8mm nut on top? Also, there are no valve seals, correct?

You gave 4 gears there by you left leg on dash you have 3 plus reverse by your leg is 1 thur 4 gears.

Got the hum from the motor for the first time plus some burning smell. After watching the video checked the capacitor - several bulges and a big blob which leaked out of it. Ordered the new capacitor now - should solve the problem. Thank you.

WOW, Finally a different youtube video with an old lathe Backgear shaft being removed! It's always little Southbend or Atlas lathes showing the simple little shaft removals, and never the big old lathes with more complicated assemblies... This might be the same as mine that I can't figure out. Thanks man, even though this was from 9 years ago!

I think you could control the telescope using pc (StarPatcher software) but you’ll need a RS232 to USB connection cable

You rock dude!👍

To take off the permanent marker off the gages, run your finger on your forehead to collect the oil ,then run the forehead oil on the permanent marker will dissolve it. Then clean up with a cloth. It does work.