I replaced the one on my '04 TB. The CV axle came apart just like yours did. The easiest way to get the disconnect out is remove the bolts holding it to the oil pan, then get underneath the truck. Remove the 4 13mm bolts holding the plastic skid plate on. You now have a good view of the bottom of the disconnect. Gently tap one side of the disconnect upwards, then the other side. You're breaking the corrosion bond that holds it to the oil pan. It won't move very far in either direction, but it doesn't have to. Now tap the disconnect out towards the fender just a bit, then tap it back in. Tap it out a little farther, then back in. Repeat this process a few times, going farther each time, and it will pop right out. It probably took longer to type this than it did to tap the disconnect out. Trying to pry it out with a pry bar is a good way to break it, as on of your other commenters found out. 🤬
Thanks for this tip. It reminds me of removing exhaust manifold studs...backing them out ever so slightly and then tightening them back in and repeating this process to help break the chemical rust corrosion bond
I just replaced that axle and what a pain. I do get a rumble from time to time that stops when I stop the truck. I am guessing watching your video it may be the actuator. I have an oil leak hitting it. I would retorque the hub but to 103 fps Or it tears up the wheel hub.
What were the symptoms? Mine is flopping around too...i believe i have a bad bearing inside this axle disconnect. I get a vibration/shake felt at highway speeds only...I heard horror stories about taking these out as sometimes they get stuck to the oil pan
I was just inspecting underneath one day and noticed the cv axle was loose and I could shake it. After I got the disconnect apart I saw the carnage. Last year the drivers side started making noise and it ended up being the front diff bearings were bad. So I had to rebuild it. I took a road trip. Like 1000 miles. And the steering wheel shook the whole way there and back. I thought I had a bad tire or out of balance. Still haven’t figured out what causes it. That was 6 months ago.
Hey boss. Watched you video on removing the disconnect. Actually the best one I found as I could not get mine off and tried prying on it 10 ways from Sunday. Well, I thought I had it until I realized the back roughly 1 inch of the disconnect that protrudes into the pan broke clean off inside. Would you have any idea of how to remove the stuck part? I considered knocking out the intermediate shaft, assuming it drives out to the passenger side. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Going to run on 2wd as long as I don't have any issues with that.
Ooof. That sounds like your intermediate shaft (going thru the oil pan) is still locked to the spline. Maybe take the drivers side apart and drive the shaft out (towards the pass side) from the drivers side. I’m not sure but I would think once the drivers half shaft is out you could drive on the intermediate shaft with something soft. Wood/aluminum rod. Good luck! Maybe check online and see if there’s something that shows how to remove that shaft thru the oil pan.
@Robert Scott Thanks. There's no clear video on removing the intermediate so I'm not exactly clear on which way to drive it out. Some forums have mentioned it has a tapered shaft. I did see where some guys dremeled or sawed the remainder of the disconnect housing stuck in there then used a slide hammer. Not a lot of room to work with. Such are the pitfalls of backyard mechanics!
@@daveforys5095 I was first thinking to drill and tap 180 degrees apart. Then slide hammer on that. Not sure how practical that is. I’d give it a chance before tearing the drivers side apart.
That's about where I'm headed. I want to avoid having to pull the shaft myself. I'll have to push the seal still in the housing in to make room for the hammer then hope I can get it out. Going to be running in 2wd for a while til I'm sure I've got 2 days in a row off knowing these projects always end up taking longer.
@@robertscottII Guess you got all the use out of that tire! Boy that truck is clean still see black paint on the frame ,here in Ontario that bee brown .
@@glassblastcollision I also just did the front differential as well. That was a bigger job. The bearing on the far left side was gone. Where the axle shaft mates.
@robertscottII what were your initial symptoms before replacing this disconnect actuator? Did replacing it fix it? Or is this the reason you ended up needing to replace the front differential? Because the problem ended up being internal to the front diff?
I replaced the one on my '04 TB. The CV axle came apart just like yours did. The easiest way to get the disconnect out is remove the bolts holding it to the oil pan, then get underneath the truck. Remove the 4 13mm bolts holding the plastic skid plate on. You now have a good view of the bottom of the disconnect. Gently tap one side of the disconnect upwards, then the other side. You're breaking the corrosion bond that holds it to the oil pan. It won't move very far in either direction, but it doesn't have to. Now tap the disconnect out towards the fender just a bit, then tap it back in. Tap it out a little farther, then back in. Repeat this process a few times, going farther each time, and it will pop right out. It probably took longer to type this than it did to tap the disconnect out. Trying to pry it out with a pry bar is a good way to break it, as on of your other commenters found out. 🤬
Thanks for this tip. It reminds me of removing exhaust manifold studs...backing them out ever so slightly and then tightening them back in and repeating this process to help break the chemical rust corrosion bond
@@macknumber9 Works real good for spark plugs, too! Especially on aluminum heads.
Thanks u saved me $1500 from the shop it took me 4hrs but it was worth it
Glad to hear.
Always use a socket to tighten up your hub bolt by hand as the other way will mess up your bearing.
Great video! Thanks for sharing. My rig sound like it’s going into four-wheel-drive but it doesn’t actually happen
I just replaced that axle and what a pain. I do get a rumble from time to time that stops when I stop the truck. I am guessing watching your video it may be the actuator. I have an oil leak hitting it. I would retorque the hub but to 103 fps Or it tears up the wheel hub.
What were the symptoms?
Mine is flopping around too...i believe i have a bad bearing inside this axle disconnect. I get a vibration/shake felt at highway speeds only...I heard horror stories about taking these out as sometimes they get stuck to the oil pan
I was just inspecting underneath one day and noticed the cv axle was loose and I could shake it. After I got the disconnect apart I saw the carnage.
Last year the drivers side started making noise and it ended up being the front diff bearings were bad. So I had to rebuild it.
I took a road trip. Like 1000 miles. And the steering wheel shook the whole way there and back. I thought I had a bad tire or out of balance. Still haven’t figured out what causes it. That was 6 months ago.
Hey boss. Watched you video on removing the disconnect. Actually the best one I found as I could not get mine off and tried prying on it 10 ways from Sunday. Well, I thought I had it until I realized the back roughly 1 inch of the disconnect that protrudes into the pan broke clean off inside. Would you have any idea of how to remove the stuck part? I considered knocking out the intermediate shaft, assuming it drives out to the passenger side. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Going to run on 2wd as long as I don't have any issues with that.
Ooof. That sounds like your intermediate shaft (going thru the oil pan) is still locked to the spline. Maybe take the drivers side apart and drive the shaft out (towards the pass side) from the drivers side. I’m not sure but I would think once the drivers half shaft is out you could drive on the intermediate shaft with something soft. Wood/aluminum rod. Good luck! Maybe check online and see if there’s something that shows how to remove that shaft thru the oil pan.
@Robert Scott Thanks. There's no clear video on removing the intermediate so I'm not exactly clear on which way to drive it out. Some forums have mentioned it has a tapered shaft. I did see where some guys dremeled or sawed the remainder of the disconnect housing stuck in there then used a slide hammer. Not a lot of room to work with. Such are the pitfalls of backyard mechanics!
@@daveforys5095 I was first thinking to drill and tap 180 degrees apart. Then slide hammer on that. Not sure how practical that is. I’d give it a chance before tearing the drivers side apart.
That's about where I'm headed. I want to avoid having to pull the shaft myself. I'll have to push the seal still in the housing in to make room for the hammer then hope I can get it out. Going to be running in 2wd for a while til I'm sure I've got 2 days in a row off knowing these projects always end up taking longer.
@daveforys5095 any updates? Did you get it out? If so how did you?
como sacar la pieza cuando se rompe y queda la que en bona adentro
Hey man can you give a link to the 4wd disconnect you bought
This is what I bought. www.rockauto.com/en/parts/dorman,600115XD,4wd+disconnect,14757.
Cómo se llama la pieza para comprala
What happened to the fender? Did the wheel fall off?
Haha. No, a tire threw its tread.
@@robertscottII Guess you got all the use out of that tire! Boy that truck is clean still see black paint on the frame ,here in Ontario that bee brown .
I think im going to have to do that job on my Envoy.
@@glassblastcollision I also just did the front differential as well. That was a bigger job. The bearing on the far left side was gone. Where the axle shaft mates.
@robertscottII what were your initial symptoms before replacing this disconnect actuator? Did replacing it fix it? Or is this the reason you ended up needing to replace the front differential? Because the problem ended up being internal to the front diff?