WORST CV AXLE FAILURE I HAVE EVER SEEN - GMC Envoy is now beyond repair!
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- čas přidán 23. 01. 2020
- I got my buddy's 2007 GMC Envoy (Same thing as a Chevy TrailBlazer) in the garage for some noise coming from the passenger side front wheel. I was told it was "likely a bad wheel bearing a CV axle". Once I started digging into the truck I was shocked with what I found.
Because of neglect, this truck suffered one of the worst and most destructive cv axle failures I have ever seen.
DISCLAIMER - IT IS NOT SAFE TO OPERATE A VEHICLE WITH THE CV AXLE INSTALLED. DON'T DO IT, BUCK!
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We hope you enjoyed this video and will keep in mind that all information included is intended to be purely academic and in fact is only the opinion of D&E. We are not professionals, nor are we qualified to knight you a professional. D&E want to ensure that anyone modify or fixing their own vehicle does so in a safe manner which leaves the vehicle in a legal, roadworthy state. In short, DON'T BE A MONKEY WITH A TOOL BOX! If you don't know what you are doing, leave it the professionals! - Auta a dopravní prostředky
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@Sonny Calvin instablaster =)
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I took on this job to help out my daughter's boyfriend. His parents bought the parts and I did the free labor. The 4wd disconnect was seized in the oil pan just like the video. I didn't have any luck trying to gently pry it away. I used CZcams and found this video.
After watching this video, I was frustrated that it might not be possible to remove it. I knew I had to get it out. I used a combination of an air hammer and a slide hammer to remove it. I removed all the bolts and took the front cover off. I then used a slide hammer with some thick washers. I bolted the slide hammer to the second half of 4wd disconnect. I used the slide hammer and was able to get some movement. It then quit moving. I figured it was bound up at an angle. I switched the slide hammer plate to a different set of mounting holes. I used the air hammer set about 80 psi to massage the half of the 4wd housing. The housing then seated back flush. I then started working the slide hammer again. I could definitely feel it coming out.
My big take away and advice: The 4wd disconnect sits in the oil pan with a tight tolerance. Corrosion makes them hard to remove. Also, It has to be removed evenly. If the recessed half it not being pulled straight out, it will bind up. I used a 3 ton floor jack to raise the lower control arm up enough to use the slide hammer effectively. Once I got it coming out straight, it was easy. I hope this helps someone. Remember to bolt the slide hammer plate to only the back half of the 4wd disconnect assembly. The holes that use the shorter bolts.
Great video! One thing I want to add is the envoys/trailblazers use the same hub assembly and knuckle on 4wd and 2wd. (2wd has no axle) so you can run these trucks without the cv axles and not worry about the wheel bearings coming apart. You do need to leave the inboard cv axle housing snapped into the front diff to prevent leaks and contamination of the front diff. Most other vehicles you cannot run without the axles. The envoy and trailblazer are an exception.
OMG I have been looking for the answer for this. Good to know my TB that is 2WD that I don't need the CV on it!! Thank you!!
I second this… you do not need the “cv axle stub” to hold the wheel bearing together…. Being a Trailblazer SS owner I’ve seen several people and heard of even more not running the stub
Sure you can , you just use both ends and remove the shaft ..its the otter end design with that big washer and 33 mm nut that our life rides on ...
Thanks for posting this. I have not had the time to work on my Trailblazer and it's been sitting on jack stands for months because of this issue. I was going to start fresh with trying to reseat it into the transfer case just in case I did happen to kink it on the way out. Before taking another crack at it I watched your video and it sent me in the right direction on how to tackle it. All the other videos I have seen showed the actuator housing just popping out after being unbolted. Details below:
To remove it I used a heavy mallet and chisel to push in the back of the housing into the transfer case. I took off the front and removed the guts and went around it while hammering to push it back in and possibly crack the seize. I was not sure how much I may had moved it in the past and if it was moving evenly so reseating it made sure my next step would apply pressure evenly.
I then used the end of a slide hammer sandwiched between the two pieces of the housing which I bolted back in place with only a little play once bolted back in. I didn't want to bolt it down too tight and put pressure on the spindle of the transfer case. For shiggles I sprayed some WD-40 in the crevice between the housing and the transfer case. I didn't expect it to do much but figured it could not hurt.
Then I just layed on the ground and kept working the slide hammer as hard as I could. Checked spacing here and there and didn't see any movement. I kept at it moving to different positions trying to get better leverage and eventually it popped off covered with a bit of crud but nothing horrible. Mind you I have done this before just not as forceful and for as long.
Hope this helps someone else in the future.
dude, lovely touch with the countdown before sound level changes. Never seen anybody else do that
I got myself too deep into this mess to turn back. I would consider myself a Ford guy, but I made a gamble on a 2004 Chevy Trailblazer LS (4.2L). I went to get it inspected, but they failed me on the upper control arms and upper ball joints. When I saw the estimate they gave me ($1100), I just turned around and bought the parts to do the job myself. At 24, I have never done any sort of front end work before, but I have experience with replacing parts myself on every other vehicle I've owned.
I replaced the parts (which was a pain btw because I had to cut part of the body that wraps directly behind the upper control arm bolt, making it impossible to remove otherwise) over the course of two weekends.
While I had everything apart, I noticed the boot of the CV axle on the passenger side was torn. I was annoyed, but bought the axle, along with the 36mm socket I'd need for the axle nut. Before the part arrived, I made a 30 mile trip. Near the end of the trip, I felt a really bad vibration coming from the passenger side, and seconds before I arrived, I heard metal on metal banging with every revolution of the axle. I got out, and to my chagrin, I saw that the wheel was barely hanging on. Three lugs had sheared completely off, and the rest were loose. After limping my car to a flat work space, I assessed the carnage. I pulled the CV axle out, and looked at the 4x4 disconnect. The bottom was almost eaten through, causing the axle to flop around on the frame. I shook my head, and ordered a new 4x4 disconnect, along with a new hub assembly (both of which were not cheap). I stayed up til the wee hours of the morning last night working on the Trailblazer. The majority of the time was spent in trying to get the back half of the 4x4 disconnect off the oil pan. I saturated the connection with PB Blaster, and pried with all my might. Eventually, I broke the part in half, leaving half of it still firmly stuck. To those who are dealing with this, using a hammer to beat evenly around the perimeter of the part does more good than prying with the strength of a dozen men.
This morning, I got an alignment (they also replaced the lower control arms), and the 4x4 works again now. As my first front end experience, I don't think it can get worse than that. In the future, I think I will stick to Fords. (I tried Chevy, I really did).
Here's a bit of trail-side engineering for your consideration. Bust one of these in the woods and you can remove the stub shaft end from the axle , reinstall only that, and get her home.
Wild... That is an awesome hack. thanks!
Jon B that’s some good knowledge for sure
This clown trying to teach us how to fix our Chevy's and Jon B saves the day!
I have done this and it's been going on 10k miles, I check it every once in awhlie and all is still tight and in place
I had a trail blazer come to me with both CV axles wobbling like that
Not sure if it's a common issue, but we had one come in with identical damage. We used a puller, heated the gear on the transmission shaft while using a air chisel on the gear to break it lose. Took about 45 minutes and a lot of cussing. And your right, I wouldn't advise tackling it without a lift. It took three of us. 1 torch, 1 puller tension and 1 air chisel.
Richard Bricker you’re a legend
Rick B how much did you charge for the repair?
@@wildestcowboy2668 Can't really recall since this was 2 years ago, but it was a regular, good customer who we service 3 of their vehicles, and you have to take care of them. Vehicle is still on the road today. Did the State inspection on it in June.
@@rickb8808 Reason I asked I need my Chevy's front one done. Boys around here will rip you off.
GREAT video!
Learning a lot. I have AWD and does not have the actuator, but still needs lubrication....not serviceable....grrrr! Have full front suspension out of my GMT-360, Saab 9-7x variant. It's actually quite interesting to watch all the videos and learn the differences between part-time 4WD and AWD.
Keep on posting (04/26/2022)
Mr .P
Good job of describing how the various parts work and the resulting damage from the broken CV shaft.
Thanks bud
My disconnect was seized as well on my trailblazer. I had to get underneath with an air hammer and rock the housing back and forth. Took an hour but it finally came loose.
omg i’ve done change the whole front suspension on a trailblazer . my friend got the vehicle with the transfer case and cv axels deleted . now that i watched your video it all makes since wth is going on why their is still a weird noise when she drives . i didn’t know you couldn’t drive it with out the cv axels in since it’s 4 wheel drive . thanks a bunch glad i watched this because i’m so over this vehicle spent to many hrs on it .
With one well timed edit Doug dashed the hopes of dozens but saved the lives of hundreds. Truly a hero and a villain.
Worst failure I've ever seen? Well I briefly owned 1998 Chrysler Sebring convertible. I stopped owning in when it began leaking (gushing) coolant from too many places to identify.
HAHA... Someone had to burst their bubble before their burst some else's
Done the cv axle on my sisters 2016 Chevy Impala....after installing the two sway bars, new bearings etc.
It looked exactly like this one.... literally broken in half 😂 what a mess of a job.
You can drill and tap two holes in that part and use a puller it will come out.
Well boys I have a 05 GMC envoy xl and I'm in the same problem so I'm going to tempt to remove my and put it back together wish me luck thanks for the video
I have had the exact same problem with my 03 envoy but I just took both cv axles and the drive shaft out
Here’s a suggestion leave the seized part in there because the broken parts are on the other half replace the other half and the cv and good to go
Vocabulary is top notch my dude!
Thanks buddy
New to the channel! Just was searching to see if anyone has done this same thing I have a 08 trailblazer and have the same issue! I haven’t yet tackled it but it will be soon! Hopefully mine doesn’t get stuck like that one I’m on the other side of the country so not nearly as much rust and corrosion as the east coast but I have driven this across country a few times and lived in Ohio for a bit seems that is when my issues started! I actually drove home from Ohio to Washington on this issue and also blew out a rear axel bearing in Colorado... she got me home tho! Definitely gotta say this truck has been great to me had it since new and over 200k on the clock have a couple thousand lbs of stereo equipment and it’s been hauling that and has toed a vehicle so it’s definitely a work truck! The 4.2 is an inline 6 so it’s got more torque then the v8 actually! The extended ones came with the 5.3 in the lt package then you have the ss witch is I believe a 6.0 LS but Like I said I’ve had this one since new and a while back I lined up with a ss and the 4.2 stayed right with it from 60-120 I was pretty impressed!
How did you get it?
I also wanted to add I actually drove with my shaft out for a few weeks because the bering cage on the cv busted during a hella snow storm. Got under there and cut the boot out of the part in the diff to keep junk out then left the nut on the hub. Just leave the bolted end on. knock out the bering cage with a chisel. Then cap the end the goes into the selector.
Its a normal front diff. it has a mid shaft that goes through the oil pan and all that unit does is disconnects the shaft from the diff. It usually just falls off after taking out the bolts. Its built that way to make the truck sit lower for better center of gravity. And yes you can drive it just fine without it. you can just take the shaft part out of the two ends and keep bolt on the axel then cap the other side to keep crap out of the diff. Also its an inline 6 not a v 6
Way back when the GMT360 platform was in development, I remember seeing the engine as a machined piece of rigid foam. It was in Pontiac at the Truck Product Center garage. I remember having a chat with my buddy about how the hell they were going to package an inline 6 in that engine bay with it being so tall (I have a FJ40 Land Cruiser that had an inline 6 in it). My jaw hit the floor when I found out that the front drive shaft would have to go through the oil pan. Really too bad, the engine is rather powerful, until the owner neglects it and doesnt put oil in it. That is what I am dealing with right now. Contemplating an engine swap on a Trailblazer, and have to take the entire front end apart. Your issue is simpler I think, as you can just swap the oil pan... but it is a pain since the whole front suspension has to come apart to drop the pan.
Yea, the design is a really melon scratcher. An instance of "sure you CAN, but SHOULD you?"
Those axle disconnects do tend to stick in the oil pan. Do not try to pull it out in one yank! Get it to move out just a bit then push it back in. Pull it out a little further, push it back in. Repeat until it comes out. They can be a nightmare to remove.
You can do a cv joints delete…. You have to disassemble the cv shaft threaded end off the cv shaft and reinstall onto bearing hub without the complete c/v shaft. Been there done that lol.
AutoZone shows identical part numbers for the 4x4 AND 4x2 front hub. 4x2 requires no axle stub in it to run. I own 1 of each.
That's a lie pal
@@wildestcowboy2668 Not a lie pal, same front wheel bearing used on all 2wd, 4wd, AWD models. I state that after retiring from 20+ years as a GM parts dept manager.
I’m working on this exact issue right now on a 2005 Chevy envoy
2004 GMC Envoy , well maintained and a great vehicle , was parked out front of my house , on the street , crazy neighbour lady backs her mini van out of her driveway at what seemed to be half throttle , hits the drivers side front wheel dead center , small amount of damage on fender but no biggie right ? I go to move envoy back into my driveway and the wheel lets go at the bottom ball joint rendering me in place. Managed to lift up and jimmy it together and bring up the street to my mechanic so crazy neighbour lady could support his cause! Great car , lasted many years until my son t-boned an idiot turning in front of him from a red light. Also have a 2006 and 2007 Envoy , Wife drives the 2006 and I pick parts off of the 2007. New front right cv joint just arrived and I will be installing on wifey's car tomorrow, (boot is torn on existing shaft) , new one was very inexpensive so didn't bother with removing one from parts car. Worst ( and most expensive downside to envoys ) is the rear tailgate glass exploding , $1500 replace , thank goodness for insurance. Turns out rust builds up on the upper hinge parts , expands and then shatters the tempered glass. Cheers!
The rear tailgate glass does what now??
How can you prevent the rear tailgate from doing that?
9 degrees Frankenstein 🤣. You're hilarious
That looked rough for sure!
I just did this with my '08 TB. the passenger side was a pain, the fact that the CV joint wouldn't come out so I am bolted the plate and was able to remove it all at once and used a pulley to separate the axle from the diff plate. mine didn't have metal shavings in the housing so I cleaned/regreased and put it back together.
1990 Ford Festiva.... I lost my entire wheel and axel because of the bad wheel bearing and steering components (all the stuff you cut in from the future to explain)... It was so funny watching the tire roll away from the car... Luckily going very slow...
YIKE! Glad you were ok. That could be a crazy dangerous situation
Would a bad bearing (or any internal damage for that matter) in the axle disconnect housing cause vibration felt at highway speeds?
I have a 2008 trailblazer with a lot of flop when I move around the cv axle where it goes into the axle disconnect....my symptoms are shaking felt at highway speeds...I can really feel it in the front end around 65mph+ and it's not there or I can't feel it anyway at slower speeds...I definitley have a bunch of play though at the cv where it meets the axle disconnect
Also was wondering as I live in florida and have absolutley no use for the 4x4 (bought truck up north for snow could I just "delete" the front diff by removing both cv axles and front driveshaft? I heard that the 2wd and 4wd hubs are the exact same so it is ok to do as far as the hub bearings are concerned
Nice your a genius brother 💪🏾
Going through this now !
If you seen the new hub it’s a 2 part piece so when you take out all the bolts it comes out like yours did and when you take out the 4 bolts required it comes out in one piece except mine .. mine broke around the outside lol
Air chisel here we come !!!
Since the cv shaft is screwed anyways I was thinking just take it apart and using it for the hub so it doesn’t blow the bearing apart...
What a mess
Got. 03 trailblazer doing clanking in cv axle but quits when i put it in 4wd would this be similar to this problem
This is normally true. These trucks are a bit of a different breed tho. The wheel bearings on them do not need the pre load on them, if you look them up the RWD models and the 4X4 models use the same wheel bearings. The RWD are just simply bolted into the knuckle. No stub shaft. I have owned both 4x4 and RWD 360s.
can you pull the stub from the CV on the outer side? Still have compression on W/B
I felt the same way.(gutless)
untill $1,200 at auction and heads/valve job on this 06 denali. I'm replacing my front axles. 👍🏾
Lol I had a non mechanical buddy try to take his valve cover off used the wrong sized socket and stripped all the nuts. His reasoning for taking off the non leaking valve cover was because he wanted to see the inside of the motor 🤷🏽 mind you I’ve told this guy from all my Jeep issues, if it’s not broke don’t fix it.
Jeez... amen to that!
That’s a lot of damage.
I'm going to go ahead and put this out there I have an 06 Envoy XL with the 4200 vortec inline 6 I've got a different intake on it I put a GM performance control module chip on it I put a straight exhaust on it past the first cat and I'm getting ready to turn 230,000 on it. I've had it framed out in the middle of fields and Frozen in the ground couldn't get it out for 3 days you know just pretty much done anything that you can imagine doing the one took it through all kinds of trails I've took it through flooded roads I pulled shit that no midsize SUV should ever pulled I've hauled multiple vehicles with it across many states the damn thing is a fucking monster dude for a midsize SUV is unbelievable it's a fucking army tank the front end I will say he has some kind of shitty designs on like the the bushings and and the housing and everything as far as I see the axles go but man dude I really can't complain much on the vehicle I've always changed on it the oil when it was due you know around 3500 miles try to keep up the regular maintenance I put a couple coil packs in it you know a set of plugs change the transmission fluid around 185,000 MIles I'm pretty sure my overdrive something's starting to act funny but to overall I love this vehicle it's been just outstanding in my opinion it's had its little ups and downs but for the most part it's never left me stranded except for you know when I've had it stuck multiple times I had a friend that had a small Dino and it registered 330 ft pounds of torque and 317 horsepower the motor still runs like a damn sewing machine it's a freaking monster I am getting ready to look into changing the timing chain I think it'll probably be good thing to do since I'm going to try to hold on to it for a little bit longer I disconnected the four-wheel drive sometime back because I'm not living where I need it anymore and I think the switch or the selector solenoid went out so I just went ahead and disconnected the front drive shaft and and unplug the wiring harness going to the the selector switch and I ain't had no problems yet but my front left CV just starting to pop a little bit and I'm hoping that I can take the CV axle out and leave the part that goes through the Hub and make sure the back of its got something good to grab and tighten back down the the nut going on the CV shaft and cross my fingers until I get another 1. But yeah like I said overall man I can't complain dude the midsize SUV that can do pretty much anything I've ever wanted it to do plus I've always liked it looks of a man looks decent you know I've got to cut some paint job on mine and instead of 22s the XL shit man for work I can't beat it I've got some subs in the back and all my tools with me and I wish they would still make the damn Envoy xl cuz I would definitely get another one.i really have put gmcs threw the trials ive beat the fucking hell out of them and they keep on ticking with maintence of course, and consideration and know ing the limits of your machine matched with respect and sense plus mechanically knowledge you can keep most vehicles on the road for a good while .4200 vortec inline six after 2005 is a damn good motor before 06' they were not near as good in low end torque or overall performance. 4.5 / 5 stars in my opinion. A lil heavy, front end needed to be redesigned. suspension and drivetrain components could have been better. With all that said i drive the shit out of my ride and love it.
What type of noise was it making? I have some grinding coming from my front end, and the wheel bearing has been replaced in the last year. Could it be a cv shaft/axle?
CVs are usually a clicking noise when they start to go. Grinding could be breaks
Had a friend with a 2004 Mitsubishi Galant with a power steering leak. Turns out the daughter let it go for so long it burned out the pump and dried out the rack and pinion. It need new hoses, a pump and a rack. To put in a rack and pinion on this fine piece of engineering you had to remove the subframe. To change the oil on this thing it had a size 24 mm drain plug in it.
What?! That is insane! dont ignore those noises friends...
D&E In The Garage especially power steering. I mean I’ve driven old trucks without it and power steering is so amazing.
GMC = Gotta Mechanic Coming....🔧🛠️$$$$.$$
LOL. I love this
This is why I'm glad to live in an inspection state (PA). That would have been caught when the owners took it in for stickers.
Yeah no thanks... (I know old post)
Unless you know somebody at the inspection station, I had an inspection sticker mailed to me from my home state because I wasin Georgia at the time for work so couldn't get back to have it done. Vehicle inspection is a joke. They don't actually check anything even if you do take it in, just the states way of lightening your wallet.
Hey my son has 2 envoys a 2004 4x4 and a 2002 2WD and both have the same hub bearings and there's no CV axle on the 2WD so what is holding it together ?
Usually 2wd have a different style of wheel bearing which does not require the axle to hold it together
@@DEInTheGarage there all the same wheel bearing.....
Thank you for clarifying, the delete- i am 244 miles from home. My cv joint im pretty sure is 2times worse then this one . 🤔 i drove 350 miles with that ruckus today- it would stop and then all hell broke loose .. creeping at a 45 mph on hwy 95 near Winnemucca 😳
Yikes! Good luck!
I have given the envoy to my son- i told him to take it easy - who knows what was cracked / banged up after that trip. 🤦♀️
@@onestrokeawayart wow that's love! 😆
@@jjones9290 , yes lol
Was that chickens in that background or your stool? Haha
Lol.. Chicken?
my 08 was worse than this. the CV axle had spun around and hitt the lower control arm bracket. totally cut the actuator off. rip the pigtail off. I pretty much replaced everything but the spindle on the right side so the almost the whole right knee I was able to get the distorted housing off
Replace the whole front axle with a used one , thats what i gotta do , my cv never blew but the bearing behind it is vibrating at 45 mph , let off the gas it stops , finally figured out where it was coming from both new cv joints , all nes u joints , that didnt do nothing , stinking bearing i never changed before in that front carrier behind the cv shafts , yuk .
I made it 10 miles down the highway before I lost my wheel. Was an amazing experience, not that I recommend it by any means. Had to have the fire department come out and put out the 100 yrd stretch of median that apparently doesn't like brake fluid and Sparks.
Good gravy! So you are saying you tried to run without the axle in place?
@@DEInTheGarage , yes sir... Lesson learned, glad I can say I was young and just didn't know any better. Now I make it a habit to know my vehicles and what I can do to limp home or a garage. I'm mostly grateful that I didn't kill anyone, and the only cost was a few hundred dollars. Love all the videos, find them to be helpful, very informative and most importantly I find myself smiling/laughing more often then not! Thank you.
@@rudyfinney9450 Hey, we all have to learn somehow. There were several people in the comments of this video telling me I would have been fine driving around indefinitely without the CV and that I was stupid to suggest otherwise.... Someday they will learn
@@DEInTheGarage , well I wouldn't suggest it but to reach their own. I will say that I have taken the axle side of shaft apart from hub side and made that work. Never drove them far, as I prefer to fix and have my vehicles performing as best as possible. Also, I primarily only own Jeeps ( older models) and taking them apart at the u-joint has saved me a few times out in the sticks. I'm not really familiar with the Yukon by any means but I'd assume you're correct and would never chance not having the hub side of the CV there to ensure bearings don't come apart.
You can do a CV axle delete!!!! They actually come that way for the models that are not 4x4
Yup ,my 07 wheel bearing has grooves just no shaft or four wheel drive
Correct. The base rwd is the same transmission which is 4l60e as the 4wd and awd models. Removing both cv axles should do fine but the service 4wd light will pop on. Or you can send the pcm for a tune and delete the 4wd. The difference is in the transfer case up front and the driveshaft that connects from transfer case to the front differential. Remove those and it will just be a regular rwd
@@christopherzube551 as long as the actuator is still plugged up at the front differential, the light won't come on
expected for an independent suspension lol
So here’s the problem with the GMT360 platform. The straight six which is a reliable engine, was also a stupid design. The front differential goes THROUGH the oil pan. I’m about to go through this swap on my 05 trailblazer. Btw tow rating for a trailblazer/envoy/rainier/Bravada/Saab 9-7x/Isuzu ascender was 6400 pounds.
And that is for the straight 6
That is damn respectable for a 6
D&E In The Garage so funny story, I had to change my passenger side cv axle last Thursday. Guess what? Same situation. Axle cut out was eaten up. Bought one from amazon for about $150 and it went right on. Only 4 bolts hold it on but it does hold on tight to that center shaft so you have to pry it off.
You could take out the axle and just insert the part of the CV that holds the hub together.
put the “stub in the hub” and tighten it up.
Huuuuh
Mint
Just take the cv joints out and take them apart and just put the shaft part back through the wheel bearing , then put it in two wheel drive and make a two wheel drive out of it.
mines is at the point before hearing grinding, What's the exact name of the part so I can get it replaced ASAP!
Its the 4wd disconnect
So just cut if off behind the wheel bearing hub and nut it up! All done!
It passes though the engine oil pan.
Apparently some owners of Trailblazers/Envoys of that particular era were not inclined to maintain their vehicles. I say that because while I was visiting a friend of mine in his shop the other day I saw the almost identical damage on/to a Trailblazer he had up on a lift. Tom has GM deeply imbedded in his DNA AND is a Navy veteran.....Sooooo….Can you say "Cursed like a sailor"? His is a very well equipped shop and he told me that the only solution he could see, that would make the vehicle safe to drive, was to completely rebuild the front end with GM "quality parts". Since the gent that brought this Trailblazer in for "some kind knocking in the front end" is the fourth registered owner and only paid $600.00 for it as a "daily driver beater" he has given Tom the go a head to do the work. If this video had been up last Saturday I would have sent you photos so you could compare what you found on the Envoy to what Tom found on the Trailblazer. I'm no mechanic but I would swear that what you found was a match for what Tom encountered.
Dang.. what a small work. Maybe this is a more common failure than I originally thought
Yup lets repair with the same stupid engineering catastrophe that gm originally plagued these cars with!
The envoy is an absolute survival dependable truck these bad boys would do just about any job you throw at them climb over just about anything these vehicles last a long time and the motor pretty much has to be seized for them to stop moving I've had my own voice for 10 years now and I absolutely love this Beast but that's not to say that they don't have their issues it's just usually pretty cheap to fix the issue I've never had to repair on this thing that crossed more than $500 considering I do most of it on my own I absolutely love the Envoys I have yet to see a vehicle Outlast them the coolest part is with my 02 I was on the highway and I beat a Dodge Charger busting it at 110 mph wasn't paying attention and didn't see the cop ahead I got pulled over and got a ticket I wasn't even mad at the ticket I was kind of proud of it and put it in a picture frame on my wall my little O2 Envoy beat a buffed up Dodge Charger it was epic love these vehicles
I think you removed too many bolts. Should only be 3 and leave 4 then inner comes out with outer after a few taps with hammer. I may be wrong tho. That sucker was beat up for sure!
We let my wife's brother borrow her 02 Neon and he said the brakes needed replaced. I trailered it to my dad's garage and he had completely worn down the rotor so that the braking surface was gone. The metal backing plate of the brake pad had cut it down. Now obviously the caliber had gotten stuck, but you would have thought you would have noticed it pulling to one side and stopped driving it.
It is obvious to car guys, but (I guess) some people just assume cars don;t break? I dont know. the stories of neglect I could tell you
took me 9 hrs because i was scared of ruining oil pan .found this link gmtnation.com/forums/threads/hard-to-remove-front-disconnect-assembly-2005-envoy.13748/
Thanks bud. Who knew??
I actually like these suvs over the jeeps etc….I’ve got an 05 trailblazer LS…they have the identical engines etc in the envoys and tb…the inline 6 4.2l that come stock with around 280hp and 280ish ft lb of torque at the wheels…I can tow up to 6000lbs easily …wish I could find one with the 5.3 or 6.0 v8 in it…they’re always so expensive when I do find them for sale…who would pay $50,000 for an 08 trailblazer ss with 50,000 miles on it lol…
Did you ever end up getting it out? If so, how did you go about it?
I caved and sent it to a shop where the broke it out. That is how you do it apparently
@@DEInTheGarage Had to break mine too, smh
The wheel bearing module is not pressed together. The hub is cold forged over the back side of the inner race of the bearing . it cannot be removed. You can not rebuild the bearing modules, th whole module has to be changed. The 2 wheel drive model use the same bearing modules as the 4WD models. You can pull the axlw shafts and drive a 4WD model as a 2WD model.
Guess what? I'm going thru the exact same damn thing on my 2002 trailblazer
Freaking A. That's my dilemma now on my gfs envoy Denali.
My dads silverado just broke a cv axle it happened right before a huge snow storm
Wow... awful timing.
you can run these as a 2wd set up.
Basically the actuator bearing fails
All that damage is nothing but pure Jersey unadulterated neglect from the previous owner it's definitely not a reflection of the auto manufacturer in question however I do know people that had those trucks and everyone I've ever known that had one was dissatisfied with the vehicle
No, like i said in the vid. This is not on GM (Though I am not sure I love the engineering on this truck even if it was not the cause of the failure).
It goes trew the oil pan
worst design chevrolet front wheel ddrive ever made. No wonder the gov. has to bale out general motors , they make junk cars and TRUCKS now.
Know it's been a year but for what it's worth cut the end of the cv axle so you have a axle stub to hold the wheel bearing and say fuck the 4wd
4.2 is a straight 6 or I6 like our 4.0 Jeeps and not a V6 but I think the front differential went bad and killed the CV axle as the unit looks dry and should be separate from the transmission . Everything is a common problem when it happens to you 😂 people never check these fluids and go 150k on a TB or Envoy without service and say it's common when it's the owners flaws not the vehicle. I would repair it and keep it if it's clean .
My buddy found a GM shop who knew how to remove it, so this one lives to die another day
Put a new trission in it and sell it
Good job but thats not a front wheel drive its 4x4 and that is the front diff. going thru the engine oil pan of a 4.2 or 5.3 engine.... Not alot of fun when they have been abused and neglected
Great video, i can tell you know your shit.
That will be over 500 in parts
IT was $700 all said and done...
Just swap in a junkyard trans and get back on the road. Lol!
Its not a transmission. Its the front differential disconnect assembly that he removed. These have an axle disconnect (err they claim it helps increase fuel economy when not in 4WD) so when in 2WD that collar slides out of the way and disconnects the right hand CV shaft from the drive train, it don't have auto locking hubs or manual locking hubs it just has that axle disconnect. So you still have the other half of that front end spinning when 4WD is selected that collar slides over and locks the right CV axle to the differential allowing for 4WD operation. That system is garbage in every vehicle it seems like. I like my Jeep its front axle is live all the time, no electronics to control my 4WD, when I pull the lever its in 4WD.
Looks to me like it may require a replacement front differential assembly that housing looks trashed and by the time you managed to get that other 1/2 of the axle disconnect housing off it may mangle up the rest of the differential housing.
@@wildbill23c lol, thanks for the explanation, but I dont think you got my sarcasm, or my poor excuse for sarcasm. I have to agree, my Jeep also has the 4WD lever. Best invention ever!!
@@RocHopn Can't beat a manually controlled mechanism...that's why I laugh at today's vehicles with all those different terrain selections...I just put my Jeep in 4WD full time or part time, it don't give a shit whether you are driving on snow, or in mud. People today are just way too lazy, and I never understood why people had a problem pulling a lever LOL.
In the video he kept calling it a transmission too LOL...no worries.
For a short amount of time I daydreamed on the idea of getting a HUGE bolt and bolting the wheel bearing together so that he could just drive it with 3 CVs axles... obviously i thought better of it in the end, but i still think it COULD work
@@DEInTheGarage might be time for the Envoy to be a Guinea pig for that idea. I know I would like to see if that works. Maybe as a trail repair just to get home.
🎯You sound like a copycat from vice grip garage 🤦
I need your help! I have a 2004 envoy and all of a sudden I heard a humming noise while driving. Not grinding! It started on the right side then spread to left side. Drove for 10 days and got worse by each day. So loud and vibrating that I couldn’t drive past 55 mph. I even heard it at 5 mph. Took to mechanic and he tells me it’s not the hub assembly’s. There’s no play. Everything seems tight. What can it be? No banging, no grinding, but loud vibrating upon rotation of front tires. Mechanic thinks it’s the front diff. Doesn’t sound like a front diff to me. Totally sounds like bad hub assemblies
Could be a CV axle or joint on a drives haft. Maybe inspect them both. I admit I am not an Envoy expert so I can only suggest somewhat generic things. Defi Italy unsure all differentials. Transfer cases, transmissio, etc has the proper level of fluid and it is clean. A good way to go about this diag is to try to isolate systems so see if you can note a change. Remove the front drive shaft and drive around (if possible on your vehicle) hope that helps bud!
@@DEInTheGarage I so appreciate your response! Thanks so much🙏
Just take the cv joints out and take them apart and just put the shaft part back through the wheel bearing , then put it in two wheel drive and make a two wheel drive out of it.
Just take the cv joints out and take them apart and just put the shaft part back through the wheel bearing , then put it in two wheel drive and make a two wheel drive out of it.