Unlocking Haptic Power: DOF Solenoid Install - Independent System - No programming needed
Vložit
- čas přidán 9. 07. 2024
- Virtual Pinball DOF Solenoid Install.
Imitates real pinball haptics by activating solenoids independent of the PC / ALP systems.
Manufactured and sold by Ebay Seller: phillip_ellis_is
www.ebay.com/itm/154554920329...
I have not been paid to promote or endorse the product(s) in this video. I am a consumer like you, that decided to give this product a shot at full price to provide my feedback and document my install.
This will void the comical 30 day warranty from AtGames so please wait that period of time before doing so.
Thank you for watching!
Under no circumstances will John Paul’s Garagecade be responsible or liable in any way for any content, including but not limited to, any errors or omissions in the content, or for any loss or damage of any kind incurred as a result of any content communicated in this video, whether through John Paul’s Garagecade CZcams Channel or a third party, in no event shall JPG be liable for any special, indirect or consequential factors beyond the control of JPG. JPG cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. John Paul’s Garagecade assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video, Use this information at your own risk. JPG recommends safe practices when performing any do it yourself repairs and of with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of JPG, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed of implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment or information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not John Paul’s Garagecade. - Jak na to + styl
Never knew it could be this easy to add mechanical solenoids. Great video!
Thank you. I felt the same way. Most can accomplish this easy task.
Good stuff man! My ALP is due to arrive any day now....got the exciters, and the bass shaker already....gonna need to order a set of these for sure! I'll be leaning on your videos and wisdom to get this thing banging like yours!! Thanks for the videos!!
Thank you! Awesome, you’ll definitely enjoy the solenoids along with the exciters and shaker. Makes the ALP haptics feel closer to the real thing, the immersion you get out of this is worth the time, mods and cost. Please don’t hesitate reach out should you have any questions. Enjoy your new ALP!!!
Love your instructional style. Just completed this install without an issue thanks to your vid!
Thank you ☺️ I appreciate your feedback
I just completed this exactly the same as you and also have your same bass shaker and inducer install. This is pretty bad ass but now I need to find a balance with the sound volumes again 🙄. Thanks so much for the tutorial, worked out great.
So glad to hear that, thank you for the comment confirming how much better it is.
Hah, this is the way! Find the balance and you’ll be good to go. Thanks again Doug!
Awesome mod man. I am going to order mine today for my legends. I really want to add these to my 1 up.
I wish these companies would just add these things from the jump and charge the extra 100 dollars
Thank you! Awesome, you’ll love it.
Me too, really makes a difference. Pretty sure they paid peanuts for those shitty exciters, could’ve offset the cost for these solenoids and charged $50 more to the consumer but what do we know 🤷🏻♂️ 😂
I'm new to virtual pinball (do not have a table yet)... concluded that the AT Legends Table may be my best entry point (although I wonder if they will have a version 2.0 at some point that moves the USB ports and improves a few other things). So many great CZcams videos being made by many -- really cool community, but I'm still a little confused with where to buy (I guess direct since there isn't a Sam's Club close to Boston) and what mods to plan. I really like your vids -- you have calm measured manner in these. Big thanks!
Also, starting to see why higher end tables cost more... each higher quality component, screen, control, etc that gets added all increases the cost (and value).
Hey, you can purchase them direct as well. Forewarning- they’ve been having a lot of quality issues recently. It is the best entry level machine considering a lot of its known issues and shit firmware updates. Other than those things, add a few mods and you have a decent machine still under the high cost of a 4k custom Vpin.
I'm near Boston and ordered direct from ATGames (end of Jan this year). No issues with shipping time or quality. Already have it completely pimped out; DOF as in this vid, exciters, bass shaker, control panel, gaming PC running Pinball Emporium, 8" DMD panel, and Arcooda TPA with Kinect. I'm about $3600 into at this point, but have MANY games on it. Worth every penny.
My man went all out 👍 haha game on!
@@BusyAir Thank you so much for letting me know, especially since you are in the same region I am located! That makes me feel more confident about ordering direct! Big thanks!
The flipper sound effect used is why the haptics work on stock tables. They use a big thump sound for the flippers so you will feel it. FX3 uses more realistic flipper sounds.
Thanks for the detailed tutorial! I plan to install both these and the deluxe haptics kit this week. Do any of your other videos address adjusting the color and temperature settings through OTG to improve the washed-out look of the ALP screen?
You’re most welcome. Thank you for watching.
I believe I do go over Nvidia card settings on one of the videos. Let me look back and I’ll get back to you.
Thanks and no worries. I have an AMD card and discovered that Windows has a video calibration tool. I used that as a guide to adjust the gamma, contrast, and color.@@JohnPauls
What size spade connectors do you need for the stock flipper buttons ?
Awesome video, followed your steps and it works amazing! I didn't install the exciters and I notice the solenoids don't set off the accelerometer.
Very pleased to hear that. Greatly appreciate the feedback as that helps others make an informed decision. Appreciate you Bradley, thank you for watching!!!
Impressive dude
Thanks dude!!!
Question: in regards to the power supply, do you unplug it whenever you turn off the ALP or do you leave powered all the time? There should be some type of switch you can install to turn off the power supply when not in use
Yes. I have it plugged into a power strip that is on a smart plug. Turns on and off through smart home devices… google
John Paul, thank you for the detailed video. It helped me a lot. You recommend disabling the accelerometer. Where can I do that? I am not seeing an option under the table options. Thank you
You’re most welcome. The haptic setting can be found under the Gottlieb table settings. You must first choose a Gottlieb table, then go into settings and find haptics. Turn to off.
That's a slick set up. I'm going to install this and probably put in a switch to cut them out for playing late at night.
Great idea, let me know what you go with. Been thinking of doing the same thing.
Thank you!
@@JohnPauls I ordered a round rocker switch DPST that should work really well. I should be able to wire each set of contacts in series with the each coil of the solenoids. I'll let you know how it works out.
Sounds like a good plan Joe. Please do and thank you!
@@punchedname how'd it go? Interested in doing the same.
@@chrisappleton619 It worked great.
Just a few questions: Good walk through, but does the unit itself come with clear detailed instructions? Does it also give hepatic feedback with the bumblers on the various games. Also, could you please give a link to the bass shaker?
Thank you. No it’s does not. Maybe the new version does.
Yes, whenever they are on and you hit the flipper buttons, the solenoids will activate.
Search Dayton BST-1 High Power Pro Tactile Bass Shaker 50 Watts RMS, 4 Ohms Impedance
I just received the solenoids package with a diagram from Philip to add a turn off switch when you don't want them on. My question is did you try different positions of the solenoid not so much in the cab but with the silver cap next to the wood. I heard they should be turned this way for better effect.. Thanks
Haven’t tried it, find it unnecessary. They provide enough haptic feedback where located currently. Don’t want the silver cap next to the wood as that’ll cause a vibration/clack type sound.
How much rattling are you getting from the cabinet itself from the bass shaker ,, I mean unwanted rattling that Doesn't sound good,, I want to add a shaker but I don't want to have to rebuild the cabinet to do it I'm just tapping on the bottom of this cabinet seems like it would be a noisy 1
It’s actually not bad at all, I have mine mounted a little forward of the center line towards the front of the ALP. If you have the volume on the amp turned up beyond 3/4, yeah it’ll sound like it’s vibrating apart but at Gameplay volume and my preferred settings, barely anything at all. I’m adding a support brace on the inside that’ll complete eliminate it. May test some dynamat material as well.
Just curious as to whether the solenoids activate independently or do they both activate at the same time regardless of which button is pressed?
Independent, they’re wired to each flipper switch. Hit that switch, solenoid activates for that side.
Just bought the kit. Added this video to LegendaryForum's Media section
Hey Scott and to answer your question, yes they are independent of the stock haptics - whether they work or not, the solenoids will still give you flipper feedback.
Thank you!
@@JohnPauls thank YOU. Great vids
Greatly appreciated Scott!
Hey what is the orientation of the wires on the board that return to the buttons. I'm a total noob at this, is the positive and negative in the same orientation at the wires that enter the board? Thank you.
Doesn’t matter as long as you split each signal respectively. All the DOF solenoid board does is close that signal.
Do I understand this right that if you cut the power to the solenoids, the button presses won't get through anymore?
Asking because of volume and me often playing at night. I had been hoping that I could just switch the solenoids off when playing at night, but if the flippers stop working, that option would be off the table (literally ;)), so that's a truly important detail for me to know...
Philip includes a diagram with the kit to add a switch which allows you to play without the solenoids being activated.
do you know where I could find an all in 1 setup. meaning all tables and rom packs under one file?
I wouldn’t know, sorry. Pretty sure they’d still require some kind of set up on a table by table basis, i.e. rom volumes, b2s, POV, etc. VPX / Front ends are easy to learn and actually becomes fun installing tables once you figure it all out. Plenty of resources available on CZcams to learn. Being able to personalize your tables, backglasses and media make it worth the effort.
All the soldering can be done away from the table I assume regarding the splicing? Also how did you get an impact driver into that tiny propped up opening that far back?
Absolutely. A Milwaukee extension that comes in those bit packs worked perfectly.
@@JohnPauls Thanks so much, how critical is using an impact driver vs just a normal drill for this? I am debating if it's worth it to buy one just for this install or normal drill + countersink bits would suffice since the panel is going to also be somewhat secured with the heavy duty 3M tape.
You should be okay, just turn down the torque if possible and drive it slowly. It’s only mdf, a strong enough forearm and a self tap screw could be sufficient but it’ll take a little effort. The 3m tape does most of the heavy lifting and provides sound dampening to prevent rattle. You are most welcome!
Just wondering if you had to add some wire to your flipper switch wires???
You will need to add wire from the solenoid to flipper switches by either putting new end spades on the wire coming from the solenoid or cutting into the existing flipper wire and splice in. Hope that makes sense. The solenoids do not come with the wire needed.
Thanks! Hard to gauge how loud the solenoids are from the video. I play a lot after my kid goes to sleep and have to keep my audio down lower. Since the flippers won't work with the solenoid on I'm wondering if the solenoids will be too loud late at night. Any thoughts? Thx
You are most welcome. It may be too loud. I have it in a large room and the clacking can be heard from adjacent rooms. Also have a child so I feel your struggle. How far is the kid from the ALP? My little one sleeps in the room above and can’t hear it.
@@JohnPauls My kid is above it right now but soon it will be further away. I ordered the kit tonight. Thanks!
Awesome, you’ll be fine. Enjoy!
@@joshowen8493 yes, I too gave my kid up for adoption, so that the sound of these didn't wake him up. Wise choice my friend. /s 😉
@@joshowen8493 ohhhhhhhh, you meant the ALP when you said "it will be further away", gotcha! Whoops... Heh, uh.... My mistake.... I totally didn't give my kid up for adoption... 👀
Thanks for the video! I'm adding these to my ALP. Do you think the DAEX25 Exciters are still beneficial after this mod? The BST-1 Tactile Inducer seems like it still would still be a good mod. Thoughts?
You’re welcome! Awesome you’ll enjoy them. Bass shaker and these and you’ll be set. I still do enjoy having the small transducers there for a little feedback but the bass shaker and solenoids ultimately overpower them.
Definitely try to get leaf switches. Night and day difference in lag and feel.
What I was looking for, I don't know what it is the machine comes with, sounds like speakers/bass that go off with the music
They are, really shitty small exciters that come with it. Doesn’t do either well, make sound or transduce. These will give you the sound and feel you’re looking for.
I tried doing the solenoid installation but once I powered up, when you pressed the flipper button, the solenoid goes off but it doesn't activate the flippers on the screen. Not sure what I did wrong. Here's a question. On the board, there's one side that says BUTTON and the other is blank. I wired the BUTTON side connection to the actual red button and the source to the blank side connection. Which should the labelled BUTTON connection on the board go to: the actual red flipper button on the ALP or the source wires?
Did you ever figure it out? I just installed mine, and while the solenoids fire off, the flippers onscreen don't move 😭
Recheck the connections at the flippers.
I tbe 8 solinoid kit and used the screws he gave us and is was fine. I feel like if i used a shorter screw it wouldnt have pulled it into the board the lasd few turns. When you showed tbe screw ontop of the side and yes then it would have gone through but you still have to sccounf for the thickness of the white wood or plastic or whatever the solinoids are attached ,
Its great kif i woukd have gotten more then 8 if we could lol
Definitely a great kit, loving it! I’d rather be safe than sorry, not ready to re-wrap this machine yet.. with an impact driver those screws may have poked through, not worth the risk. The 3/4 screws gave me a decent bite on the board after being countersunk and no risk of poking through the other side.
@@JohnPauls The AT Games Legends Pinball table is made out of particle board, right? I'd be worried about the screws coming lose or the particle board falling apart due to the solenoid vibrations eventually. Would it make sense to screw mount the solenoids on plywood that one glues to the inside walls of the cabinet instead? I don't have the cabinet or solenoids, but thinking ahead. Looks like that placement is about as close as one can get to where the flippers would be. Thanks for any replies.
You can but I’ve had no issues with them backing out.
I've just bought a machine but it doesn't have feedaback 😢 how easy is it for a newbie to add themselves? How does each solenoid receive it's trigger to fire from a game on a pc?
Receives signal from the switch itself. Taps into the switch to close the circuit and activate the solenoids. This would be your best option.
how does this compare to a actual solenoid that hits the side of the cabinet?
A contactor? This is an actual solenoid although it’s internal. A contactor hits the cabinet. There’s plenty of video on the pros and cons of each. I wouldn’t know as I didn’t go that route.
Did you keep the stock exciters connected? I was planning on installing Dayton’s toward the bottom front of table in replace of the stock ones and would love to add solenoids like you did!!
No, absolutely not. They are terrible. Stock exciters are still mounted under the control panel however no power is being supplied to them as I tapped into that feed to provide the amplifiers a signal for the exciters & transducer. Good plan for the exciters and solenoids, truly makes a difference in gameplay feel and excitement from it. Keep me posted when you do it!
@@JohnPauls My thoughts exactly!! Will do!👍🏼 I’ve heard a few people installing a bass shaker to the mix as well….I’m curious to find out if it makes the overall gameplay experience better!
Honestly the bass shaker was the best addition. Gives me that ball rolling feel I wanted and when the ball hits bumpers the bass shaker really shines. IMO Bass Shaker > Solenoids > Exciters in order for most bang for the buck to improve haptics.
@@JohnPauls Sweet!!! Thanks for the info and the eye opening video!! I’m new to this but I’m all in to transform this table into a beast!! I was afraid the bass shaker would rattle stuff….have enough of that with the placement of the stock exciters!!🤣
I want that ball roll feel!!!❤️ What would you suggest for placement of bass shaker?
I Will be installing this week and wanted to ask if you had any issues since adding them. Anything I need to be aware of such as different location etc. my bass shaker is located in my cab so I need to be sure nothing rattles. I am using 3M commercial locking Velcro that hold 10+ lbs so shouldn’t move.
Thanks
Jay
Keep it away from the ALP PCB, vibrations over time can cause solder cracking on the board. No issues, still running strong. Play it at least once or twice a week
So finished install one issue. One solenoid sounds stronger than the other any idea why?
That’s weird. Swap them to see if it makes any difference.
@@JohnPauls I adjust location sounds good now
Awesome, enjoy!!!
Does this mean when you are using it outside of a game as a controller dies it still do it.
Yes but you normally wouldn’t use the flipper buttons for arcade games or anything else other than table navigation in VPX. If you turn on the table, power on the solenoids, push the flipper - it’ll activate the solenoid and make noise / give haptic feel. Regardless of if something is actually playing on the playfield or not. Hope that answers your question.
what amp would you go with for just the bass shaker install???
The Kinter MA170+ 2 channel I got will be sufficient. It can power up to 2 bass shakers.
@@JohnPauls do you gt some flipper feedback from the bass shaker install??
No flipper feedback, do you mean accelerometer feedback because if so, you absolutely need to turn off the accelerometer. The bass shaker will have tilt going off non stop on some tables. Map the buttons and use those.
Why didn't you just use wire taps to tap into the flipper wires?
Don’t like using wire taps. Potential failure point.
Great video, just ordered the Solenoids. Can you provide a link for the green connectors?
Thank you! They come with the green connectors. Enjoy!!!
Would you be able to provide a wiring guide? I've got a buystuff bb that has an amp connected to pc speakers and a bass shaker that's already taken care of. What I'd like to do is add the solenoids, possibly the exciters which I have, and another amp for the ALP speakers.
Hey, the solenoids have their own wiring integral of any other system. I wouldn’t amplify the stock speakers, get better. I’ll have a video up soon on modifying those speakers.
@@JohnPauls the buy stuff backbox I have has two sets of speakers, non atgames. One set goes to the ALP and the other which are amplified go to otg. Would you say the exciters should have an amp?
Nice! Yes, they require an amplifier to perform at full potential.
The Kinter Ma170+ 2 channel on Amazon Routinely goes on sale for sub $20. I used that to power my 2
@@JohnPauls I almost grabbed that but I see it doesn't come with a power supply. I ordered the Lepy LP-2020A.
Hey do you have a link to this kit.
www.ebay.com/itm/154476708499
Check his EBay page for the version with the power supply included. Or order on your own.
Did you disconnect your exciters or leave them active??
Active, adds a layer of feel the solenoids cannot produce. I.e. ball roll.
i got same exciters you got it sounds great in ALP games but i feel like it exciters don't sound as good in OTG mode on VPX games . i was thinking installing them exciters to my sound card on my computer.. i really don't play ALP tables much i play Pinup Popper more . and i just order i think same Bass Shaker you have it should be here on Friday Dayton Audio BST-1 High Power Pro Tactile Bass Shaker 50 Watts
In FX3, the amplifier for the exciters needs to be cranked up a bit more than native tables from what I’ve noticed. In VPX setting the audio preferences made the biggest difference. You’re going to really enjoy the bass shaker, made the most difference.
After doing everything you did, would you have rather just added this in the beginning? Or would you suggest doing all of the mods
Bass Shaker and this. The small transducers do provide a nice feel but would never over power the bass shaker.
@@JohnPauls thank you. So no Daytons just the bass shaker
Only if you completely disconnect the stock haptics as those exciters are 🗑
Looks like I have another mod to do!!! Do you think AtGames will ever release their own solenoids? I thought they were supposed to.
Hah! Soo worth it. I’ve heard rumors about it. I don’t trust them to even get it right, they’ll farm it out to the lowest solenoid bidder, add a profit margin and add a month of arcadenet to “sweeten” the deal 🙄. Let’s see if they can get sub $130 and perform equal or better.
I didnt know the playfield would lift up at all !
Lol, it does 😁
How much did this cost? Would you say this is the only mod needed for an authentic pinball feel? I'm on a budget saving up for the 30th Anniversary Mortal Kombat cabinet.
Are they still on eBay?
Yes the come up as he gets inventory. They’re $150-160 with the power supply. Most certainly worth it to get the flipper knock.
@@JohnPauls Thank you, John!
@@JohnPauls Is that Cleveland Software Solutions?
You’re most welcome
Nice video. Just to make sure my addled brain is comprehending this right since the diagram says different words lol. When we split the flipper wires coming from the ALP we put the wires still attached to the flipper to the red flipper button on the diagram and the side still connected to the ALP goes to button input to computer on the diagram ? Kids don't do drugs LOL. Thanks.
Thank you. Yes in principle, what you’re doing is adding something in between the signal source. In the ALP’ case it’s blue and black. Blue to red, black to black on both ends to complete the circuit. Depends on which drugs 🤔 😂 Most welcome.
Hi, is that a 12 v 5 amp power supply?
The recommended power supply is the Alitove 12V 5A. That’s what I believe shipped with the kit when ordered with the power supply.
@@JohnPauls thank you!! Also what base shaker you using?
You’re welcome. Dayton Audio BST-1 High Power Pro 50 Watts
Can I just buy your legends pinball with all that mods?
Not selling at the moment thank you.
So I should sacrifice the ability to nudge the machine, which is a key element of playing pinball, to have the table make fake clicking and poping sounds. Sure.
Everyone has a preference, it’s a digital replica of a pinball table. I’d rather have the feel of the haptics over the ability to physically nudge. I’ve gotten used to magnasaves. Let’s not forget that the ALP’s accelerometer is trash and isn’t accurate. So give and take based on preference… sure?
@@JohnPauls clicks and pops have nothing to do with game play. As far as the accelerometer being trash, I can nudge the table quite effectively, using the same techniques as on my 2 analog machines.
Okay… have you tried any Vpins with haptics? I’m not talking A1UP or ALP, a fully decked out SSF VPin? If not, you won’t get it.
These solenoids are in addition to the transducers and amps utilized in my system to make the Vpin come alive. Bumpers, ball roll, kickers all need to be felt to give you better immersion. Upgrading Solenoids is optional but the icing on the cake.
I’m glad the accelerometer works for you, enjoy your gameplay.
@John Paul’s gARageCADE I don't have one, but I have played my friends six thousand dollar custom vpin. While it plays MUCH better than the ALP, it's not because of the haptics. The only thing fake clicking and popping adds is decibel level to an already noisy gameroom. Ball roll effect would be great except it's not directional and therefore adds nothing but again, more fake noise. I am 58 and have been playing pinball since my early teens, including my father's original KISS machine which I still have, but is unfortunately in disrepair right now. I guess the fake sounds are fine, but not at the cost of not being able to nudge the table. If you can't nudge, you're not playing pinball. Thanks for the video.
You’re most welcome. It’s all up to the owner’s preference, I enjoy the extra immersion added, don’t have the room for an analog Pinball nor the time to build a custom Vpin so this works for me and many others that are utilizing this kit. Thank you for watching Andrew.
Does this just sound for the flippers? The Haptics are just horrible on ALP. I even bought the arcade controller for the ALP. Still sounds horrible.
Atgames should be embarrassed sending a product out like that.
Fact! Yes, the solenoids give feedback to flipper activation only. You’ll need exciters and a bass shaker / transducer if you want bumper and ball roll feel as well. I also have a video tutorial on the exciters and bass shaker w/ amplifiers installed.