Feel the Game: Legends Pinball Haptics Mod Tutorial with Bass Shaker, Exciter & Amps!
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- čas přidán 18. 10. 2021
- In this video I tackle the terrible haptics on the stock ALP, disconnecting them all together and installing two DAEX25 Exciters & one BST-1 Tactile Inducer with amplifiers. The haptics are felt through the ALP on stock mode and through OTG mode via PC for Future Pinball, FX3, VPX tables. If you do not have haptics through OTG before this mod, check my advice towards the end of the video. I also show how to set up multiple audio devices from a single source (PC) in Windows 10. This allowed me to connect an extra sound system to the ALP on top of the haptics.
UPDATE: Settings Video - Optimal sound and haptics... • Legends Pinball OTG Ha...
The DAEX25’s are to be wired in Parallel from the MA170+ amplifier not in Series like the stock exciters. 18 guage wire recommend. The BST-1 to the Fosi Audio BT10A- 16 guage wire recommend.
Adjust Bass from 1/2 to 3/4 on amps, treble to zero. Start main volume low and work your way up after setting table settings. Bass Shaker breaks in over a small period of time and will get louder, stronger.
Strongly advise turning off the accelerometer, the Bass shaker will cause Tilts on some tables.
Links to components used below, no affiliation with seller(s) or products. I have not been endorsed or paid to use the products in this video. Like you would, I based my choices on reviews, price, availability and meeting the budget I set forth for this modification.
Monoprice 109436 Gold Plated Speaker Banana Plugs - 5 Pairs - Closed Screw Type, For Speaker Wire, Home Theater, Wall Plates And More www.amazon.com/dp/B0097JLQVC/... :Only utilized for a clean install.
Dayton Audio BST-1 High Power Pro Tactile Bass Shaker 50 Watts www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDDPJTI/...
[2021 Upgraded] Bluetooth 5.0 Stereo Audio Amplifier Receiver 2 Channel Class D Mini Hi-Fi Integrated Amp for Home Passive Speakers 50W x 2 TPA3116 - Fosi Audio BT10A www.amazon.com/dp/B076XSBCCL/...
Y Connector Audio Cable 3.5mm Audio Female to 2 RCA Male MONO - Pulled link as some were having issues with that cable. CZcamsr Garrett Lake was kind enough to provide a part number thank you Garrett! Philmore #44-227
Kinter MA170+ 2-Channel Auto Home Cycle Arcade DIY 2 x 18 W Mini Amplifier Bass Treble RCA Input Audio Mini Amplifier with 12V 3A Power Supply Black www.amazon.com/dp/B07C1Q1FPT/... :Low Wattage Amp specifically for the low wattage exciters.
Fancasee (2 Pack) Replacement 3.5mm Male Plug to Bare Wire Open End TS 2 Pole Mono 1/8" 3.5mm Plug Jack Connector Audio Cable Repair www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y8JBMY2/...
Dayton Audio DAEX25 Sound Exciter Pair www.amazon.com/dp/B001EYEM8C/...
Under no circumstances will John Paul’s Garagecade be responsible or liable in any way for any content, including but not limited to, any errors or omissions in the content, or for any loss or damage of any kind incurred as a result of any content communicated in this video, whether through John Paul’s Garagecade CZcams Channel or a third party, in no event shall JPG be liable for any special, indirect or consequential factors beyond the control of JPG. JPG cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. John Paul’s Garagecade assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video, Use this information at your own risk. JPG recommends safe practices when performing any do it yourself repairs and of with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of JPG, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed of implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment or information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not John Paul’s Garagecade. - Jak na to + styl
Love the bass shakers, really adds some sound to the bumpers. I also installed the solenoids what a difference! Thank you for putting these videos together.
Greatly appreciate the feedback Bradley! You’re most welcome!
AWESOME!!! lol found this link from your other video thanks for sharing!
You’re most welcome
I love it. Makes a big difference all so added the silinoids to the ALP it even makes a difference in game play slso. freaking amazing 👏 thanks love it. need to run pinball emporium has a lot of great tables to play.
That’s awesome David, I appreciate the feedback. Glad to hear you’re enjoying it, certainly makes a major difference in gameplay and immersion. You’re most welcome.
Very helpful, thanks for the video.
You are most welcome, thank you for the feedback and for watching.
Awesome vid. Keep it up sir.
Greatly appreciated!
Hi John
I just installed the BuyStuff arcade audio haptic kit and it seems to work great. I swapped my haptic spice for this setup and wanted to ask if you have tried it? Any recommendations?
Great video. I have seen other mods like this where a speaker-level to line-level converter is used between the ALP exciter output and the amp inputs. Any problems/distortion in your setup leaving it out ?
Hey Brian, thank you! I’ve considered installing an inline low pass filter to remove unwanted frequencies. I have my amps powered by a separate power brick as well to eliminate some of the ground loop feedback you may get. The only time I get audible feedback is when there’s no input signal and the amps are on. No distortion.
Great video and easy to understand. i got all the items and plan on upgrading today. My only question is, I got the stereo mix enabled and still do not get haptics over OTG. Is it working to you because you have the receiver? I do not have another speaker hooked up but figured the haptics would work because of table being the listening device. Any help would be amazing. Thanks
Thank you!
Make sure you have haptics on the Gottlieb tables turned on and the volume on the ALP set to at least 80+ before you switch over to OTG.
Nice info video. Questions cuz I'm a confused sob. Is this considered SSF ? IF so why this way and not through a 7.1 soundcard ? Does this help with nudging at all or is that a whole different thing ? Supid ALP got me suckered into more mods and mods and mods lol. THanks. Great stuff.
Haha thank you. This ties off the stock system. Uses the wiring for the shitty haptics they provide on the stock ALP. Sends the signal to amps which provide the transducers more power for a better feel. The bass shaker is one of the best mods you could do if you’re on a budget and don’t want to go the full SSF route. You do not require a sound card for this mod however your haptics must work in OTG to take advantage. That’s firmware related, dependent on which one you’re on.
Thanks for putting together this video, it's an excellent tutorial. I installed just the amp and exciters last night, but thinking about the bass shaker as well now. I am getting excellent Haptics feedback on all of the stock ALP tables. Great flipper and bumper sounds, but nothing really coming in OTG mode. I run Pinball Emporium for Steam FX3 tables, PC Zacc tables, VPX, and Future Pinball. I followed the steps to Force Haptics to On, and also went into a stock table and set Haptics to High. Love how it sounds on stock ALP, but would love to get it working like you in OTG mode. Any advise would be greatly appriciated!
I'm trying to figure that out still, myself.
Turn of "Force Haptics" in Legends menu
What Dan mentioned, it’s also in the videos a couple times. You must turn on force feedback on the native tables then go into OTG. This should only be required once.
@@JohnPauls The latest firmware update actually fixed haptics.
Thank you! Still not updating. Lol
I rolled back the firmware but still can't get the bass shaker to work over OTG. Are you using an auxiliary cable into the computer itself?
Awesome vid, and thank you! Do you get any ghost nudging from the accelerometer interreacting with the side mounted Dayton exciters? If not, I'll mount mine in the same locations.
Thank you!!! You will with some tables dependent on how strong you have them set with the amplifier. I got tired of remembering which tables did or didn’t so opted to turn off the accelerometer all together. I predominantly use the buttons now.
@@JohnPauls where in the hell is the accelerometer in settings? I can only find it per table
Scott it’s in the Gottlieb table settings, setting it there transfers over to OTG. Pick any random Gottlieb table.
Is there a parts list?
Amazing video. What was the primary reason for using two different amps rather than the same one twice?
Difference in power requirements between the bass shaker and the small transducers.
Your tutorials are great. Do you happen to have a schematics of your wiring? I have a little bit of trouble following the videos, looking to add the bass shaker and solenoids you suggested. Thanks again!
Thank you, greatly appreciate the feedback.
For the bass shaker you’ll want to get your signal from the original feed for the haptics. Red to red, black to black on your adapter to amplifier wether it be 3.5mm mono or RCA. From your amplifier you’ll need a power source (power brick) and a positive and negative lead that goes from one of the outputs on the amp to the bass shaker. That’s it.
The solenoids are even easier. Tap into existing flipper wires. Plug in power source.
Hope that helps. Follow the videos along and pause. I talk fast, sorry.
@@JohnPauls so I'm about to install the bass shaker, but had a thought. Do you get haptics when playing in OTG mode? I get none playing on steam. If I'm using the wiring from the exciters for the bass shakers, assuming I will not be able to use the bass shaker, unless I'm playing on a built in table? I'm on the latest firmware. I feel like I've read somewhere that the latest firmware broke otg mode haptics.
Do you have haptics in VPX? FX3 haptics are weak from the get go. If you don’t have haptics at all in OTG, the bass shaker won’t work. I get signal in FX3 and the bass shaker rumbles albeit less than VPX and Native tables.
There’s supposedly a rollback firmware that fixes OTG haptics… worth looking into
Could you just use one amp instead of two like the ZK-TB21? I would be using a smaller shaker as well.
As long as the amp meets the required wattage to accommodate the extra load yes.
is it possible to add additional exciters? Does this mod disable the stock exciters or simply add 2 more to the stock 2?
Disables the stock exciters, they’re trash. You can add as many as you want as long as you account for power output on the amplifier(s). You need enough power to drive each exciter.
I will be setting this up over the weekend but wanted to ask if the latest firmware that seems to have removed haptics on OTG will work on this install. I actually went and set back to factory default to get haptics back on OTG seems to have worked.
It’ll work ok factory firmware. I’m on 5.55.0
What are you using to mount the Fosi amp underneath - looks like a strap of some sort?
Black Zip tie - simple solution
If you are only adding 1 bass shaker and 2 solenoids - can it all be run from one amp? Or is using 2 amps necessary, or possibly just beneficial in that you get separate volume controls for the exciters and bass shaker? Further, there are more powerful 20W 4 ohm exciters, that would be wired in series I'm guessing if they were to be used - would choosing those exciters change the amplification requirements (1 vs 2 amps)?
The exciters use a much lower wattage hence the need for a separate amp, the base shaker requires more 50w. You can find an amp that has separate power outputs by channel however that gets more expensive. Also better to be able to control amplifier power to each as they individually need tweaking by table / system playing it I.e. VPX, FX3, Native Alp
I'm basically going to copy your setup because you make it easy to follow. Is this mod(s) worth it, and would you install these before the solenoids? How much did it cost for the ones in this video? I'm going to see if I can afford them all and just do them all at once.
I’d suggest installing the bass shaker, amp and solenoids for best bang for the buck. Solenoids were $160 with the power supply.
I have the solenoids installed (did them first). How did you get the right exciter installed behind the accelerometer box?
I have a video on it. Not that hard. Just slide it in place and then pull the tape backing. Fold the tape corners before sliding into place.
@@JohnPauls Which video is that, and does it go into more detail in how to install the bass shaker also?
It was this one. The easiest way to do it is. Fold the corners of the double sided sticky tape about 2-3mm, slide the exciter in front plunger box and pull the remainder of the backing tapes off. Mount it so it’s easy to access the connection points.
Excellent video. For your source amp input... Can you cut two rca cables and connect them directly to the stock exciter red/blk wires? Then the rca plugged into the amp?
Why did you go to a 3. 5mm and convert to rca plugs for the amp source input?
Thank you! Amp availability (3.5mm vs rca input), quality for what you get and keeping the wiring as clean as possible. Yes you can source the signal direct with rca’s, I’ll be doing this soon with the backglass speaker upgrade. Thank you for watching and for the feedback.
@@JohnPauls have you tried using a speaker line output converter for the ALP? I think it takes signal from speaker source and allows you to plug in a rca cable. Wonder if that is a cleaner solution?
Maybe, I’ll give it a shot. Thank you!
I'm getting horrible vibration from cabinet. I mounted mine on the inside, do you recommend I install under cabinet?
Yes, avoided the inside because of vibrations. Use vibration dampening or figure out what’s rattling and secure it.
Thank you for your video and expertise! I too ordered all the parts you have and wired up exactly like you did. After completing all the wiring, I started up to find that only the left side exciter was working. No right side and no bass shaker. I went back and checked all my connections to find the issue was the 3.5MM male plugs. For the plug for the shakers which plugs into the RCA split 3.5MM female plug, if I unplugged it and plugged it back in just enough to make contact, only the right side shaker would work. If I plugged it in all the way, only the left side shaker would work. I found a very shallow sweet spot in-between the two which makes both exciters work. As for the bass shaker, that 3.5MM male plug plugs directly into the amp and same thing, slightly unplugging it makes the shaker work. Has anyone else had this issue? I don't know if I got a shoddy pair of 3.5MM male plugs or what?
Besides that little hiccup, all the sound, bass, vibrations are really awesome and well worth the mod!
You are most welcome. Thank you for watching. Although I did not have the issue mentioned, I pulled the link for those 3.5mm splitters as a few have had the issue. A comment recently deleted by Bonebuster I believe mentioned ordering mono not stereo versions of the 3.5mm as the system outputs in mono. Greatly appreciate your feedback as it’s crucial to ensuring the mod works and improves overall feel of the machine Tim! Happy New Year!
Hello! Thanks for the video. I have the same issue. Is there any way that you can post links to the right Mono 3.5 mm Cables? I did get the bass shaker to work with a stereo 3.5. But then the amplifier failed. I had to send it back. It would not even connect Bluetooth. Another thing, The black and red wire coming from the AlP is a positive and negative? The Y splitter to RCA is left and right.....how does a mono Y splitter affect the positive and negative?
Hey, thank you for watching. Google the differences between mono and stereo splitters and you’ll see the difference. Single band on the end vs dual for stereo. They have them readily available in Amazon for $8-10
How did the amplifier fail? Defect
Doesn’t affect RCA.
Sorry I got confused at 4:12 how you split the wiring as it's taped up. I see the original red/black wire from alp and from there how is the wiring spliced into that? But to understand did you take both Fancasee 3.5mm to bare wire connectors, and connect the 1 red wire off each connector soldered to original alp red, and likewise for the 3 black wires?
That is correct, red to positives & black to negatives.
@@JohnPauls thank you. Could we run a 2.1 amp (50W×2 with 100W) instead of 2 amps? I'm thinking of getting a Damgoo which has its own sub frequency and volume dial. And then hardwire a 24V psu.
Or should we run dedicated amp only for the bst-1?
The Dayton Exciters are low voltage, 50w will fry them.
@@JohnPauls OK thx. I was cross referencing with another video on vpin parts, and this guy is using the 2.1 (50Wx2 + 100W) to power up his exciters and bst-1. He mentions a 2.1 setup front and back, but the exciters are 8 ohm 25W. Still though the amp power is double the speaker max. I'm assuming he just won't go full throttle on volume or it will blow them?
czcams.com/video/5Ftgomc1Wqs/video.html
Probably so, max volume will definitely distort them and possibly release the magic smoke. Interesting
Great Video, Why do we buy “Monoprice 109436 Gold Plated Speaker Banana Plugs - 5 Pairs - Closed “ I think I miss it on your video. Going watch it again. Where do we use this on or with? Ok I am good. By watching again it help.
Only needed two, the rest are extras. Amazon only had them in that multi pack. They are used to connect to the back of the Fosi Audio BT10A amplifier. There’s tutorials already online on how to set up a banana plug on the end of the wire. Super easy. Allows for simple plug and play. Hope that helps and thank you!
Banana plugs are not a necessity, just provides a nice finished look.
Correct
Do you turn off the “tilt” physical option? That shaker has to trigger it easily.
Yes although the positioning helped to reduce it on most tables. Gyro located next to the plunger. There are moments during gameplay that caused it to tilt. I use the nudge buttons mostly because I haven’t gotten the accelerometer to work in OTG so I’ll keep the experience the same.
Hey man!! Thank you for the tutorial. I’ve put together the same set but I’m having an issue where I’m only getting sound out of the left channel on both amplifiers. I’m assuming I did not understand how you wired the “splice” that you put together. Could you please explain how you did the splice? I wired all three reds together and all three blacks together, is that wrong?
You did exactly the right thing, reds to reds, blacks to blacks. See if you get the other channel to come live by jiggling the input to the amp. Some are reporting issues with the 3.5 connection.
@@JohnPauls I also figure I can just run both small haptics through the one speaker channel. I’ll try jiggling first though. Thanks for the reply
You can but easier wired up this way. Give that a shot. I believe they may have changed that y Connector hence why some are having issues. You’re most welcome and report back how it goes please. Thanks.
@@JohnPauls I ended up just running everything through the left channel for now, I couldn’t get the right channel working on either amp. Regardless, it works and is pretty damn cool!! Now I’m just tinkering with all the sound levels trying to find a good balance. What did you use to mount the Fosi amp?
It’ll be so much better with both channels, did you try connection at the amp? I have another video that goes over VPX haptics settings. They should help. The bass shaker makes the biggest difference. I’m currently moving my Dayton exciters to another location within the cab to make room for independent solenoids. I’ll have a video up soon. Please keep me updated on your progress.
Can you tell me which firmware you have installed. I know haptics were killed on the latest version.
5.55.0 yeah AtGames sucks with firmware updates.
@@JohnPauls thanks for all the videos i actually moved the bass shaker from under my cabinet to the inside. Works great! I have the exciters installed and will watch your video for the solenoids so I can add those next.
You’re most welcome. I’m glad to hear, you’ll enjoy the solenoids. Thank you for the feedback.
Question...I'm no expert in audio, but is there anyway to use my PC's motherboard amp-up feature to act as an amplifier or will that not work?
I highly doubt that but I too am no expert. Without an external amp that can handle the drivers, it’ll probably sound muddy if it works at all.
@@JohnPauls Thank you for your fast response, yeah I was just curious because since I already have that kind of Motherboard for my PC.
@@JohnPauls Also the exciters mentioned in your info section are on back order looks like. Could you recommend any other exciters please?
And the amp for the exciters aren't available anymore
Exciters go on and off back order routinely due to the demand. Place the order on Amazon when it offers preorders. I did that and only waited a month for a restock.
The amplifier doesn’t have to be that specific brand. Another compatible unit with the same specs will work.
It seems like there is a hell of a delay on the flipper lag.
Check the latest video with the leaf switches installed. Made a significant difference. There will always be a slight bit of lag with the ALP however graphic card settings and leaf switches certainly improve it.
How does this compare to A1Up haptics?
My latest solenoid install video makes the ALP outperform the A1Up haptics. Give it a watch and see for yourself. Much beefier solenoids than what A1Up has.
About to install the bass shaker. Do you find it vibrates the metal casing on the power supply? Even when i tap the bottom of the cabinet with my hand it makes an annoying vibrating sound.
No, mine did not cause any vibrations of the metal casing of the power supply. Anything mounted inside the cabinet, like power bricks for the amps, solenoids were 3m double sided sticky taped down to prevent that. Isolate the vibration with the back panel open and tighten down or apply something to dampen it. Definitely worth the effort as the bass shaker is one of the best mods you can do.
Also make sure the bass shaker itself is secured properly at all points. It has a dampening foam on the mounting side that prevents rattling.
Even wires, like in the video, isolate them, group them and zip tie them so they don’t rattle. Worth the effort.
@@JohnPauls Yep I plan on making sure everything is locked down once I have everything in place. Also installing DOF this weekend from Cleveland software. I just notice that slapping the bottom of the cab makes the metal power supply vibrate and it worried me a bit. Hopefully it’s not an issue when it’s all put back together.
Hopefully not. Awesome, keep me posted and thank you for watching!
@@JohnPauls well it’s rattling the metal case on the power supply pretty bad, I’m not sure there’s anything to do to fix this. What volume do you keep the amp at? Kinda bummed, might not be able to keep it
What could be the issue I did the poor man's DOF. Worked amazing 👏 I wanted to add more exciters to middle of cab when did that everything stopped working and now only one exciter works on left side. Added the exciters to existing exciters in parallel and then poof..nothing what happened? I think I narrowed it down either the ALP sound card or the 3.5 mm. jacks but can you mess those up? As for sound card can you even get replacement for this? I did my research on parallel and series everyone just be careful what you add to ALP maybe someone out there have this same issue.
You added them in parallel to the existing exciter wiring? You definitely blew the stock sound card / amplifier. I believe it’s part of the board unfortunately… ugh that sucks.
No I added them to the two dayton exciters installed. I thought I blew the amps but they work because I swaped them out . I hooked up the the stock exciters and it works. Pulled the 3.5 mm connector off the red and black wires re wired and plugged everything back in and only works on left channel but when I pull it out a bit it works on right side very strange could it be the 3.5 mm connector. I ordered some new ones. I am so pisst at my self for doing this because it was working like a boss.. But I can't leave shit alone should I try the mono splitter a someone mentioned in a earlier post or do you still think its is the board.. Where ? can you get a new board ? Can you order replacement? I hope I can fix this f%$k up. I was trying to determine series over parallel I guess I chose wrong.. PS: Oh have you played the BW mod of Adam's family its awesome great table.
Get the mono 3.5mm, your board is fine if the stock exciters work after going back. Shit happens, we live and learn from testing things.
I have the regular version, was the B/W mod different in regards to gameplay? Looks cool.
Well got it working it just doesn't seem like it was don't have the hum between Stock mode and OTG mode and before just plugged everything thing in now have to play with connectors pull them in out ect sucks. Well you live and you learn. I did a cool mod lighted buttons you can use your 12v power supply from the solenoid upgrade to power lights run the lights daisy chained and ground same way its awesome mod to at games ledgens pinball..
Question that’s been on my mind….Is this equal to Buy Stuff Arcades haptics upgrade kit…..or better? Mainly the bass shaker? I do like the Buy Stuff Kit because it comes with the audio switch. What would be the better way to go? Both options are a difference of $9
Wouldn’t know, sorry. Consider install ease as well. My setup performs extremely well, no issues in over a year. Plug and play is easier but I haven’t seen or felt the BSA to make an informed decision.
@@JohnPauls I’ve got some downtime for 3 weeks so I’m finally pulling the trigger on the Cleveland Software solenoid kit and now the haptics upgrade!!🤘🏼
Do the amps you went with come with all the wires I need to hook this up?
No, wiring will be needed. Gauges recommended in video.
@@JohnPauls I finished the project and it’s now the highlight of my arcade!!! It’s literally night & day……INCREDIBLE!!! Haptics working together with the solenoids is just awesome!!!! Thanks for the inspiration and motivation!!!❤️👊🏼
I get a hum whenever in a menu screen with the same set up. Did you have this problem
Only when the amps are turned up too high. It can be eliminated, haven’t gotten around to it. They sell RCA ground loop noise isolators that reduce it.
@@JohnPauls I only have the bass shaker. I have the ALP cable wired to a stereo 3.5mm cable that is plugging into the Fosi aux port. I’m getting a hum from the bass shaker the moment I plug the 3.5 cable into the Fosi. Any suggestions? Or is this the hum you’ve referred to?
Yes, helps to have the Amp power plug on a separate power brick / outlet from the ALP. That’s ground loop feedback, can be eliminated but doesn’t bother me as I only experience it when there’s no signal input. By that time I’m shutting everything down anyway.
it sound good when you playing ALP tables but it dont sound as good in OTG mode like FX3,VPX
Listen to the most recent table recordings. I’ve adjusted the settings in VPX to pump out all the pinball sounds to the ALP and Music though the Receiver, Surround System. Haptics and feel are at 90% of the Zaccaria table feel and all of the tables sound amazing in VPX & FX3
@@JohnPauls oh ok that cool . and i was just saying that is all i wasn't sure it was the video why it didn't sound as good like ALP tables
@@JohnPauls WOW OMG so much better the sound it sounds awesome like it should thanks for them videos it help's a lot
You’re most welcome. Great observation, I appreciate the input. I’ll post a video of those settings soon. Makes a hell of a difference.
Audio settings video will be posted this afternoon. You’ll be able to clearly hear the difference this mod made. Thank you.
How about your PC build to run it?
www.powerspec.com/systems/system_specs.phtml?selection=G509
Prebuilt.
Question - where exactly are you using that mono Y anyway?
To split the audio signal for both amplifiers, is it needed - no, you can splice into the same signal direct. Just cleans up the installation having the single source split with the Y
@@JohnPauls awesome. They are a bitch to find.
Certainly are as of recent. Just tap into the same output. 2 on red, 2 on black, split from the original haptic output line. Soldering would make it an ideal joint, or those heat shrink solder tubes.
Remember, you just need a signal. That signal is being amplified. However you get that signal to your amp is your design. Just make sure it comes from that source.
@@JohnPauls I can get away with using the speaker wire to 3.5 and also a speaker wire to RCA for the other input correct? Just messier as you alluded to I'd assume...
How is anyone getting haptics through OTG? the firmware killed it. I'm pissed. Anyone?
I haven’t updated since it worked. Right after the numerical sequence firmware fuck up AtGames released. Been working since, I don’t need to update the table for anything AtGames provides.
@@JohnPauls so your firmware is working with OTG haptics? I'm so pissed that i made the fucked up mistake to update when haptics WERE WORKING!! What firmware are you running that OTG haptics "work"?
I believe it’s on 5.47, I’ll confirm in the morning. A couple zaccaria tables are glitchy and fx3 haptics still need to be amplified - more so than vpx but I don’t see any reason to update, especially with the ever growing list of known issues caused by their firmware updates. But hey, they care about their customers right?! Another NOD with extended warranty periods but only for the people of our choosing…. Make that make sense. If Apple tried that lol.
@@JohnPauls I'm so mad at myself for updating when I KNEW it was working. So pissed. Let me know and then I"ll have to search to see if ANYone has that firmware to share. There's a great Reddit page but it has 5.59 which doesn't have the haptics showing in the pinball table options...so I'm confused by your 5.47...but I'll take what's there if I can find it.
Remember it’s not even a true haptic feedback, it’s sound being pumped to the shitty exciters wired in series, glued to a thin plastic board on the stock setup. Regardless, I’m getting signal to the amps for the exciters and bass shaker in OTG sourced from that same original exciter feed so in theory, if my OTG haptics weren’t functioning I’d have dead upgraded exciters and a bass shaker. They work and have worked since although sometimes the ALP will require a random reboot or windows forgets my audio mix settings to split the sounds between ALP and an external sound system.