Very interesting thank you for this video! Im thinking of getting this valve to install. So you install this valve prior to going into your pressure tank or after?
Does an Electronic Pump Controller work the same way? I was looking at making the changes you suggest when I found a PumpWave pump controller by Global Water Solutions that looks even easier to install.
Oh the electronic controllers, which are called VFD's or variable speed drives are much easier to install. If you don't mind paying way too much, being out of water often, and having to pay a lot more to replace that controller every 1-2 years then they are great. Those electronic controllers or VFD's are made to get as much of your money as possible, now and in the future. The inexpensive CSV system can last and make the pump last 30-40 years without any maintenance or expense. See why they want you to get one of those electronic controllers instead?
CSV-I don't know if this would be a good choice for me. I just replaced a 26 year old Amtrol 202, with a beautiful but pricey Wel-X-trol X1 system: WX-251 ( it's 62gallon). It has a nifty electronic switch and all the plumbing is topside. It can be set up to 85psi cut-off, and up to 55psi of differential. My well is 110', water is static at 60', pump is placed at 80' / 4" .5hp/10gpm. Amtrol says the electronic switch can also operate at a minimum 10psi differential, offering similar performance to a CF/VSD set up--allegedly. Now the question is; since I've just tripled my tank drawdown by a factor of 3x, would using your system be of any additional benefit? I would like to have continuous 70psi available. Is my large tank superfluous, of no benefit? Even if it's not a good fit for me, I appreciate your innovation. Blessings to you!
The WX202 20 gallon size tank only holds 5 gallons of water. The 60 gallon WX251 only holds 15 gallons. And that is with 20 PSI between on and off. Using 10 PSI between on and off cuts the tank draw down in half, which is why you need twice as large a tank. This is no were similar to how a CSV or a VFD works, but lets Amtrol sell twice as large a tank as normal, which is there goal in getting twice as much of your money. You can still add a CSV1A to the WeelX1 system as it is just a regular pressure tank and pressure switch system. The CSV will give you steady constant pressure while using water where the WellX1 will not. BTW we have electronic switches that will do exactly the same as the WX1, but we discontinued selling them because of the same kinds of failures as you are going to see with the WX1. However, our ESP15-99 switches we are selling for only 30 bucks.
Hi, I really appreciate you doing this kind of video. I have a problem with my well pump system. I just got a new well drilled with a submersible pump and a new 4.5 Pressure tank, pressure switch and Cycle Stop Valve installed . The water pressure build up to 60psi and cut off fine, but when a valve is open the pressure drains quickly down to zero and shut off the pump. I tried everything to no avail. Is there anything wrong with my system? Unfortunately, it is out of the country and no one has any idea of how it works. Would you happen to know what could be causing the pump to shutdown when a valve is opened?
Hello. Thanks for sharing your brilliant video. Question for you; with a Franklin submersible pump, can I install a pressure tank, a CSV with the pressure valve, pressure switch, water softener, water conditioner PLUS a booster pump? I guess my main question is that is it necessary to install both a pressure tank and a booster pump, especially if i have a mid-size irrigation? Thank you.
Yes to everything except the booster pump. You should be able to turn up the CSV1A and pressure switch on the well pump enough to make up for losses in the water filter and softener. You probably just need to use a 50/70 switch instead of a 40/60. Then most irrigation tees off before the filter and softener as raw water usually works fine for plants.
Replacing VFD type controllers like the CU301 is exactly what the CSV was designed to do and has been doing since 1993. Here is a link to a diagram of how to change out the CU301 with a Cycle Stop Valve and a regular pressure switch, which will be much more reliable and longer lasting. cyclestopvalves.com/pages/vfd-repair-kit
I have my ell water coming into the barn where the pump and tank, with all water filtration system is as well. There is a line that runs to my house. Can I add this cycle valve and tank to the point where the water enters my home? Will it maintain steady water pressure at my faucets, toilet, etc...? I have low water pressure especially when pump at barn kicks in to send pressure up to 60-70. Thanks, any help, advice will be greatly appreciated.
You don't need another tank. Just install the CSV1A before the pressure tank/pressure switch that you have. A smaller tank would let you see the strong constant pressure from the CSV much quicker. With the big tank you have to wait for the tank to drain from 70 all the way down to 50 before the pump starts. Then the CSV will deliver strong constant 60-65 PSI for as long as you are using water. This will seem like so much stronger pressure that you will no longer even need soap in the shower. Lol! With a smaller tank the the pump is on and the pressure strong and constant before you even get the temp adjusted.
@@cyclestopvalves8380 thanks, I believe I will go ahead and install the whole package with tank, etc...to replace existing tank....and add to my existing jet pump....it all goes before jet pump?
Isn't running the pump constantly bad also and using more electricity? I understand it is running at that constant while the house is using water, but that could be hours at a time. This is what I gather with this.
NO! Pumps are made to run 24/7/365. I have one that hasn't turned off since 1999. Hours, days, even years of running are much better for the pump than cycling on and off at any rate. And yes, if the house is using water continuously for hours, the CSV will make the pump run for hours. But again, that is good for the pump. Another counter intuitive thing about pumps is the amps drop when the flow is restricted with a valve. So, even though the CSV makes the pump run longer, it is drawing somewhat lower amps and doesn't add anything noticeable to the electric bill.
Seems I have seen this too late :( Just installed a trickle system to fill a 300G holding tank then boosted out that tank but psi is still erratic - how would the csv work in this setup or would the costly trickle addition have to be removed? thanks
The CSV would go on the booster pump before the pressure tank and pressure switch, which would give you constant pressure instead of "erratic" pressure. How you fill the 300G storage tank makes no difference.
Is this the same system as a VFD constant pressure system? The controllers for VFD systems are expensive and only last around 10 years. Standard well controllers last 15 to 20 years and are much less expensive.
You are exactly right that VFD systems are expensive and don't last very long. 15-20 years is probably about right for the standard pressure tank type system. However, adding a CSV to the standard pressure tank type system can make it last 20-30 years instead. Cycling on/off is what shortens the pump systems life and a Cycle Stop Valve stops the cycling and makes things last longer. A CSV does not vary the pump speed like a VFD. But the CSV reduces amps and delivers constant pressure like a VFD, without all the complications and expense that goes with varying the pumps speed.
Even though you may have a 25 GPM pump, the CSV will let you use any flow rate down to 1 GPM without cycling the pump to death. So, If your well only makes say 10 GPM, then only turn on 10 GPM worth of sprinklers, and the CSV will make your 25 GPM pump act like a 10 GPM pump, so you don't pump the well dry or destroy the pump by cycling.
Where would you install a filter in this setup? I am using my CSV for irrigation. When I install the filter between the CSV and the switch/tank I get much lower operating pressure.
And you will get even less pressure as the filter gets more dirty. You will usually loose maybe 10 PSI going through a filter. You can make up for that by increasing the pressure setting of the pressure switch and CSV. Instead of 40/60 with a CSV setting of 50, use a 50/70 pressure switch setting with the CSV at 60. You can also put the filter before the CSV so you don't lose pressure, but you have to make sure the filter is rated for maybe 150 PSI that could be on that side of the CSV. Have to check the max pressure the pump can build to know how much pressure it will put on the filter.
Cycle Stop Valves Thank you! You guys have such great customer service. I have a Netafim 1 1/2" which is rated for 140psi. I am going to try plumbing it up again this weekend. My CSV is the red and white one which isn't adjustable.
So the pump runs continually....even when I am at work all day, and this somehow makes the pump last longer? By running 100% of the time, instead of 10% of the time?
You water comes from the well and pump, not the pressure tank. Even a huge 80 gallon pressure tank only holds 20 gallons of water. Your water is stored in the well, not the pressure tank. All a pressure tank is for is to keep the pump from cycling on/off too much and when you have a Cycle Stop Valve to do that for you, a large pressure tank is not needed or useful.
It is just the way pumps work. Completely counter intuitive, but that is how they work. I made this video trying to show how/why the amps drop when flow is restricted. czcams.com/video/3GABhLLtjas/video.html
Here is a link to a customer who recently installed CSV's on a two well pump system. media.rivet.works/53bc5194743f425d97e9bf7213b88743.jpeg "Cycle stop valves allow the two well system to work together, from small to large water supply demands, to maintain a constant flow of pressure. Well #1 is a half horse power pump with a one inch pipe coming from the pump to the Cycle Stop Valve. It is activated when a small amount of water is being used. The valve CSV1A is set to 55 psi, and the pressure switch is set to 40/60. Well #2 has a one horse power pump with an inch and a quarter pipe coming from the pump to the Cycle Stop Valve. Well #2 is activated upon larger water demands. The valve CSV1A on well 2 is set to 45 psi, and the pressure switch is set to 35/55. Air pressure in both tanks is set to 33 psi. The system has been operating well according to the design." There is nothing unusual about the wiring. They are wired like a normal one pump system. But to make two pump systems work together you need to stagger the pressure settings like pump #1 at 50/70 and pump #2 at 40/60.
If your pump works while you use your water in the house. Then why do you have to buy a tank ? Since all your the pressure will be equally delivered at your house water pipes.
The 4.5 gallon size tank keeps the pump from coming on until you have used 1.2 gallons of water. Ice maker, brush your teeth, wash your hands, the pump doesn't come on. Use something long term like a shower, washing machine, etc, and the CSV keeps the pump running and supplies exactly the right amount of water, tank is bypassed. The tank is also a mechanical timer. The CSV fills the tank at 1 GPM, the tank holds 1 Gallon, so it takes from 30 seconds to 1 minute to fill the tank, depending on how you set the switch. If you don't use water for this time the pump goes off. If you use water again within a minute or so, the pump never went off, and no extra cycle.
I am thinking of buying this but need some clarification first. So I have submersible well pump pumping water thru a 1" poly line supplying water to my pressure tank for my home water faucets. This poly line runs into a check valve before it reaches the pressure switch of the tank. I want to tee off this main line to run a very long length (>200ft)of 1"poly out to frost free yard hydrants. I have been convinced that i need to tee off the main line BEFORE it reaches the tank because I have been told that a tee-off AFTER the tank will rob this long yard hydrant line of the necessary pressure it needs. I'm not sure if this is true, but it is difficult to find out, because the well pump only turns on/off according to the tank's pressure switch, so the pressure gauge between the well and the tank only gives me readings when it turns on. When there is no water in the tank and it needs to refill and i close the valve on the house side of the tank, i get a brief reading of 220 PSI of water rushing from the pump to the tank, then it regulates down to 50psi briefly then clicks off to 0 psi when pressure switch turns it off and tank is filled. So this tells me that if I were to have water constantly flowing from the pump to my yard hydrants, i would have a maximum of 220 PSI , which would diminish over distance/friction, but is still too high for a yard hydrant to handle. So in this case I would install a pressure reducing valve between the tee-off point and the hydrant, right? Most of these PRV's adjust the pressure between 30 and 75 PSI. ***BUT THE QUESTION REMAINS- HOW DO I RIG THIS SETUP SO THAT MY WELL PUMP IS PUMPING WATER ACCORDING TO THE DEMAND OF MY YARD HYDRANTS??? IS THE CHECK VALVE BETWEEN THE WELL LINE TEE-OFF AND THE TANK PREVENTING ME FROM GETTING PRESSURE TO MY TEE-OFF HYDRANT LINE? If the well pump is controlled by the tank's pressure switch according to what my home faucets are doing, then the demand of my yard hydrant has *NO* control over when the pump will turn on, right? WOULD INSTALLING THIS CSV VALVE BE A SOLUTION TO THIS PROBLEM?
Yes. Installing a CSV will make the amount the pump is producing match the amount you are using at the hydrant or anywhere. It doesn't matter where you put the hydrant except for pipe size. If you put it after some small pipe, you will get small flow. If the line all the way to the hydrant is large enough, it can be a long ways from (before or after) the pressure tank. The check valve needs to be removed as that is what is causing the water hammer 220 PSI spike. The pressure before the tank should be the same 40 to 60 as after the tank. But the check valve is a place for the water coming from the pump to crash into, and it causes a tremendous pressure spike on pump start. Most likely the CSV1A will need to go in the same place where you remove the check valve, so that works out well. :)
@@cyclestopvalves8380 another question(s): I am aware the CSV should be placed close to the pressure switch and also before it. Now if I tee off my well pump main line to my yard hydrant line before the pressure switch (and I also remove the check valve that is just before the pressure switch) should I place the CSV before the tee or after the tee? I know that sounds like a dumb question but I want to make sure I do it right.
@@tomstegeman4344 The pressure switch and tank need to be close together. The CSV can be a long ways from the tank/switch. The CSV needs to be before any tees or hydrants. Like you can put the CSV at the well and tee of as many times as you want on the line going to the house where the tank and switch are located.
@@cyclestopvalves8380 ok that makes sense. I dont mean to bug you, but I just want to make sure this works- So if I install the CSV, here is the chronological order of flow, for the fittings i would have, starting from the well pump: 560ft deep Jacuzzi Hurricane 3/4 HP 5GPM 6.8Amp submersible pump w/ internal Flomatic check valve >>> +/- 100 1" poly line from well to celler >>> pressure gauge (not related to tank pressure gauge) >>> ball valve >>> CSV valve >>> Tee (tees off to yard hydrant, hundreds of feet away) >>> pressure switch & typical ank tee assembly. All these fittings including the CSV would be within 3 feet of the tank with the setup I have. The tee to hydrants would go as follows: tee >>> check valve >>> ball valve >>> drain spigot (in case I need to drain the yard hydrant line) >>> Filter/Screen >>> PRV (pressure reducing valve, which maybe I dont even need??) >>> pressure gauge (to monitor pressure after the PRV) >>> 300+ ft of 1" poly line to hydrants. If this is too hairy, maybe I can send you diagram thru email or something.
There have been Smart Tees, Smart tanks, and even Smart pumps, But I never heard of a smart head? But it is smart to use a Cycle Stop Valve if you want your pump to last a long time and deliver really strong constant pressure to the showers.
💯💯
Thank you so much. I really needed clarification.
Thank you very educative
Great information! Would this be okay on a lifestyle block with the same pump supplying irragation to a paddock?
After the CSV the line tees off to the pressure tank, and it can also tee off to irrigation, paddock, sprinklers, or anywhere water is needed.
Very interesting thank you for this video! Im thinking of getting this valve to install. So you install this valve prior to going into your pressure tank or after?
The CSv goes before the pressure tank/pressure switch, and before any water lines or hydrants that tee off.
Before the tank
You are 👍
Does an Electronic Pump Controller work the same way? I was looking at making the changes you suggest when I found a PumpWave pump controller by Global Water Solutions that looks even easier to install.
Oh the electronic controllers, which are called VFD's or variable speed drives are much easier to install. If you don't mind paying way too much, being out of water often, and having to pay a lot more to replace that controller every 1-2 years then they are great. Those electronic controllers or VFD's are made to get as much of your money as possible, now and in the future. The inexpensive CSV system can last and make the pump last 30-40 years without any maintenance or expense. See why they want you to get one of those electronic controllers instead?
CSV-I don't know if this would be a good choice for me. I just replaced a 26 year old Amtrol 202, with a beautiful but pricey Wel-X-trol X1 system: WX-251 ( it's 62gallon). It has a nifty electronic switch and all the plumbing is topside. It can be set up to 85psi cut-off, and up to 55psi of differential. My well is 110', water is static at 60', pump is placed at 80' / 4" .5hp/10gpm. Amtrol says the electronic switch can also operate at a minimum 10psi differential, offering similar performance to a CF/VSD set up--allegedly. Now the question is; since I've just tripled my tank drawdown by a factor of 3x, would using your system be of any additional benefit? I would like to have continuous 70psi available. Is my large tank superfluous, of no benefit? Even if it's not a good fit for me, I appreciate your innovation. Blessings to you!
The WX202 20 gallon size tank only holds 5 gallons of water. The 60 gallon WX251 only holds 15 gallons. And that is with 20 PSI between on and off. Using 10 PSI between on and off cuts the tank draw down in half, which is why you need twice as large a tank. This is no were similar to how a CSV or a VFD works, but lets Amtrol sell twice as large a tank as normal, which is there goal in getting twice as much of your money. You can still add a CSV1A to the WeelX1 system as it is just a regular pressure tank and pressure switch system. The CSV will give you steady constant pressure while using water where the WellX1 will not. BTW we have electronic switches that will do exactly the same as the WX1, but we discontinued selling them because of the same kinds of failures as you are going to see with the WX1. However, our ESP15-99 switches we are selling for only 30 bucks.
Hi,
I really appreciate you doing this kind of video. I have a problem with my well pump system.
I just got a new well drilled with a submersible pump and a new 4.5 Pressure tank, pressure switch and Cycle Stop Valve installed .
The water pressure build up to 60psi and cut off fine, but when a valve is open the pressure drains quickly down to zero and shut off the pump.
I tried everything to no avail. Is there anything wrong with my system? Unfortunately, it is out of the country and no one has any idea of how it works.
Would you happen to know what could be causing the pump to shutdown when a valve is opened?
Hello. Thanks for sharing your brilliant video. Question for you; with a Franklin submersible pump, can I install a pressure tank, a CSV with the pressure valve, pressure switch, water softener, water conditioner PLUS a booster pump? I guess my main question is that is it necessary to install both a pressure tank and a booster pump, especially if i have a mid-size irrigation? Thank you.
Yes to everything except the booster pump. You should be able to turn up the CSV1A and pressure switch on the well pump enough to make up for losses in the water filter and softener. You probably just need to use a 50/70 switch instead of a 40/60. Then most irrigation tees off before the filter and softener as raw water usually works fine for plants.
@@cyclestopvalves8380
Alright, I get it now. Thanks a million! 👍
May I use this valve to replace de grundfos CU301 control pressure unit?
Replacing VFD type controllers like the CU301 is exactly what the CSV was designed to do and has been doing since 1993. Here is a link to a diagram of how to change out the CU301 with a Cycle Stop Valve and a regular pressure switch, which will be much more reliable and longer lasting. cyclestopvalves.com/pages/vfd-repair-kit
I have my ell water coming into the barn where the pump and tank, with all water filtration system is as well. There is a line that runs to my house. Can I add this cycle valve and tank to the point where the water enters my home? Will it maintain steady water pressure at my faucets, toilet, etc...? I have low water pressure especially when pump at barn kicks in to send pressure up to 60-70. Thanks, any help, advice will be greatly appreciated.
You don't need another tank. Just install the CSV1A before the pressure tank/pressure switch that you have. A smaller tank would let you see the strong constant pressure from the CSV much quicker. With the big tank you have to wait for the tank to drain from 70 all the way down to 50 before the pump starts. Then the CSV will deliver strong constant 60-65 PSI for as long as you are using water. This will seem like so much stronger pressure that you will no longer even need soap in the shower. Lol! With a smaller tank the the pump is on and the pressure strong and constant before you even get the temp adjusted.
@@cyclestopvalves8380 thanks, I believe I will go ahead and install the whole package with tank, etc...to replace existing tank....and add to my existing jet pump....it all goes before jet pump?
The PK125 Pside-Kick
@@ME-lf1wl The PK1A would be best with that pump, and all of the PK1A goes AFTER the jet pump.
@@cyclestopvalves8380 thank you! I will go purchase thePK1A...not the
PK125 Pside-Kick Pressure Tank Kit. Thanks again. Will give feedback...
Isn't running the pump constantly bad also and using more electricity? I understand it is running at that constant while the house is using water, but that could be hours at a time. This is what I gather with this.
NO! Pumps are made to run 24/7/365. I have one that hasn't turned off since 1999. Hours, days, even years of running are much better for the pump than cycling on and off at any rate. And yes, if the house is using water continuously for hours, the CSV will make the pump run for hours. But again, that is good for the pump. Another counter intuitive thing about pumps is the amps drop when the flow is restricted with a valve. So, even though the CSV makes the pump run longer, it is drawing somewhat lower amps and doesn't add anything noticeable to the electric bill.
Do you consider best efficient point pump
Yep! See this video. vimeo.com/248374685
Seems I have seen this too late :( Just installed a trickle system to fill a 300G holding tank then boosted out that tank but psi is still erratic - how would the csv work in this setup or would the costly trickle addition have to be removed? thanks
The CSV would go on the booster pump before the pressure tank and pressure switch, which would give you constant pressure instead of "erratic" pressure. How you fill the 300G storage tank makes no difference.
@@cyclestopvalves8380 thank you - would the CSV125-1 be ok in this case?
@@eattca738 Which CSV depends on what size pump and where the CSV is installed.
Can I install rhe same system but with a water tank instead of a well?
Sure. The CSV works on well pumps as well as booster pump drawing from a well, a river, a lake, a tank, or a city water line
Is this the same system as a VFD constant pressure system? The controllers for VFD systems are expensive and only last around 10 years. Standard well controllers last 15 to 20 years and are much less expensive.
No. The drive is a single phase. Single phase drives last much longer than vfd
You are exactly right that VFD systems are expensive and don't last very long. 15-20 years is probably about right for the standard pressure tank type system. However, adding a CSV to the standard pressure tank type system can make it last 20-30 years instead. Cycling on/off is what shortens the pump systems life and a Cycle Stop Valve stops the cycling and makes things last longer. A CSV does not vary the pump speed like a VFD. But the CSV reduces amps and delivers constant pressure like a VFD, without all the complications and expense that goes with varying the pumps speed.
Also what if you have a well that can't sustain a 25GPM?
Even though you may have a 25 GPM pump, the CSV will let you use any flow rate down to 1 GPM without cycling the pump to death. So, If your well only makes say 10 GPM, then only turn on 10 GPM worth of sprinklers, and the CSV will make your 25 GPM pump act like a 10 GPM pump, so you don't pump the well dry or destroy the pump by cycling.
Where would you install a filter in this setup? I am using my CSV for irrigation. When I install the filter between the CSV and the switch/tank I get much lower operating pressure.
And you will get even less pressure as the filter gets more dirty. You will usually loose maybe 10 PSI going through a filter. You can make up for that by increasing the pressure setting of the pressure switch and CSV. Instead of 40/60 with a CSV setting of 50, use a 50/70 pressure switch setting with the CSV at 60. You can also put the filter before the CSV so you don't lose pressure, but you have to make sure the filter is rated for maybe 150 PSI that could be on that side of the CSV. Have to check the max pressure the pump can build to know how much pressure it will put on the filter.
Cycle Stop Valves Thank you! You guys have such great customer service. I have a Netafim 1 1/2" which is rated for 140psi. I am going to try plumbing it up again this weekend. My CSV is the red and white one which isn't adjustable.
@@marcaronio to help with pressure drop due to the filter, install two filters in parallel.
So the pump runs continually....even when I am at work all day, and this somehow makes the pump last longer? By running 100% of the time, instead of 10% of the time?
No. No. And no. Watch the video about how a pressure tank works and try again.
I would add watch more than this video to understand the benefits of the CSV.
But how much water is in the well? Don't you need a bigger tank to store water? Wouldn't this drain the well quickly?
You water comes from the well and pump, not the pressure tank. Even a huge 80 gallon pressure tank only holds 20 gallons of water. Your water is stored in the well, not the pressure tank. All a pressure tank is for is to keep the pump from cycling on/off too much and when you have a Cycle Stop Valve to do that for you, a large pressure tank is not needed or useful.
How in the world are you drawing less amps when you are putting back pressure on the pump? Would someone please explain this.
It is just the way pumps work. Completely counter intuitive, but that is how they work. I made this video trying to show how/why the amps drop when flow is restricted. czcams.com/video/3GABhLLtjas/video.html
I need automatically control two water pump pressure switch wiring diagram please.
Here is a link to a customer who recently installed CSV's on a two well pump system. media.rivet.works/53bc5194743f425d97e9bf7213b88743.jpeg
"Cycle stop valves allow the two well system to work together, from small to large water supply demands, to maintain a constant flow of pressure. Well #1 is a half horse power pump with a one inch pipe coming from the pump to the Cycle Stop Valve. It is activated when a small amount of water is being used. The valve CSV1A is set to 55 psi, and the pressure switch is set to 40/60. Well #2 has a one horse power pump with an inch and a quarter pipe coming from the pump to the Cycle Stop Valve. Well #2 is activated upon larger water demands. The valve CSV1A on well 2 is set to 45 psi, and the pressure switch is set to 35/55. Air pressure in both tanks is set to 33 psi. The system has been operating well according to the design."
There is nothing unusual about the wiring. They are wired like a normal one pump system. But to make two pump systems work together you need to stagger the pressure settings like pump #1 at 50/70 and pump #2 at 40/60.
If your pump works while you use your water in the house. Then why do you have to buy a tank ? Since all your the pressure will be equally delivered at your house water pipes.
The 4.5 gallon size tank keeps the pump from coming on until you have used 1.2 gallons of water. Ice maker, brush your teeth, wash your hands, the pump doesn't come on. Use something long term like a shower, washing machine, etc, and the CSV keeps the pump running and supplies exactly the right amount of water, tank is bypassed. The tank is also a mechanical timer. The CSV fills the tank at 1 GPM, the tank holds 1 Gallon, so it takes from 30 seconds to 1 minute to fill the tank, depending on how you set the switch. If you don't use water for this time the pump goes off. If you use water again within a minute or so, the pump never went off, and no extra cycle.
@@cyclestopvalves8380 Yeah i just realized it. Thanks for the reply anyway..
I am thinking of buying this but need some clarification first. So I have submersible well pump pumping water thru a 1" poly line supplying water to my pressure tank for my home water faucets. This poly line runs into a check valve before it reaches the pressure switch of the tank. I want to tee off this main line to run a very long length (>200ft)of 1"poly out to frost free yard hydrants. I have been convinced that i need to tee off the main line BEFORE it reaches the tank because I have been told that a tee-off AFTER the tank will rob this long yard hydrant line of the necessary pressure it needs. I'm not sure if this is true, but it is difficult to find out, because the well pump only turns on/off according to the tank's pressure switch, so the pressure gauge between the well and the tank only gives me readings when it turns on. When there is no water in the tank and it needs to refill and i close the valve on the house side of the tank, i get a brief reading of 220 PSI of water rushing from the pump to the tank, then it regulates down to 50psi briefly then clicks off to 0 psi when pressure switch turns it off and tank is filled. So this tells me that if I were to have water constantly flowing from the pump to my yard hydrants, i would have a maximum of 220 PSI , which would diminish over distance/friction, but is still too high for a yard hydrant to handle. So in this case I would install a pressure reducing valve between the tee-off point and the hydrant, right? Most of these PRV's adjust the pressure between 30 and 75 PSI. ***BUT THE QUESTION REMAINS- HOW DO I RIG THIS SETUP SO THAT MY WELL PUMP IS PUMPING WATER ACCORDING TO THE DEMAND OF MY YARD HYDRANTS??? IS THE CHECK VALVE BETWEEN THE WELL LINE TEE-OFF AND THE TANK PREVENTING ME FROM GETTING PRESSURE TO MY TEE-OFF HYDRANT LINE? If the well pump is controlled by the tank's pressure switch according to what my home faucets are doing, then the demand of my yard hydrant has *NO* control over when the pump will turn on, right? WOULD INSTALLING THIS CSV VALVE BE A SOLUTION TO THIS PROBLEM?
Yes. Installing a CSV will make the amount the pump is producing match the amount you are using at the hydrant or anywhere. It doesn't matter where you put the hydrant except for pipe size. If you put it after some small pipe, you will get small flow. If the line all the way to the hydrant is large enough, it can be a long ways from (before or after) the pressure tank. The check valve needs to be removed as that is what is causing the water hammer 220 PSI spike. The pressure before the tank should be the same 40 to 60 as after the tank. But the check valve is a place for the water coming from the pump to crash into, and it causes a tremendous pressure spike on pump start. Most likely the CSV1A will need to go in the same place where you remove the check valve, so that works out well. :)
@@cyclestopvalves8380 ok thank you for the detailed explanation. I will probably buy one. Sounds like my only option.
@@cyclestopvalves8380 another question(s):
I am aware the CSV should be placed close to the pressure switch and also before it. Now if I tee off my well pump main line to my yard hydrant line before the pressure switch (and I also remove the check valve that is just before the pressure switch) should I place the CSV before the tee or after the tee? I know that sounds like a dumb question but I want to make sure I do it right.
@@tomstegeman4344 The pressure switch and tank need to be close together. The CSV can be a long ways from the tank/switch. The CSV needs to be before any tees or hydrants. Like you can put the CSV at the well and tee of as many times as you want on the line going to the house where the tank and switch are located.
@@cyclestopvalves8380 ok that makes sense. I dont mean to bug you, but I just want to make sure this works- So if I install the CSV, here is the chronological order of flow, for the fittings i would have, starting from the well pump: 560ft deep Jacuzzi Hurricane 3/4 HP 5GPM 6.8Amp submersible pump w/ internal Flomatic check valve >>> +/- 100 1" poly line from well to celler >>> pressure gauge (not related to tank pressure gauge) >>> ball valve >>> CSV valve >>> Tee (tees off to yard hydrant, hundreds of feet away) >>> pressure switch & typical ank tee assembly. All these fittings including the CSV would be within 3 feet of the tank with the setup I have. The tee to hydrants would go as follows: tee >>> check valve >>> ball valve >>> drain spigot (in case I need to drain the yard hydrant line) >>> Filter/Screen >>> PRV (pressure reducing valve, which maybe I dont even need??) >>> pressure gauge (to monitor pressure after the PRV) >>> 300+ ft of 1" poly line to hydrants. If this is too hairy, maybe I can send you diagram thru email or something.
Is this what they call a smart head???
There have been Smart Tees, Smart tanks, and even Smart pumps, But I never heard of a smart head? But it is smart to use a Cycle Stop Valve if you want your pump to last a long time and deliver really strong constant pressure to the showers.