Making PolyBushes at Home - using 2-part Polyurethane and 3D printed moulds!
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- čas přidán 28. 05. 2024
- Marvel as I tighten up the handling on my Mini by making Polyurethane Bushes at home using 3D printed moulds.
I look at the current items, design the moulds in 3D, mix up the casting urethane, pour, release, fit and then test the new items...
I used 2-part Casting Polyurethane in Shore A 85 harness... perfect for a fast road setup.... here's a link - I GET NOTHING! :)
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2648014212... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I did the same thing you did with the molds the first time I did something similar to this.
Change your mold to have a pinhole on the bottom. And then cover it with tape before you pour.
When you're all done with your parts, pull the tape off and push the compressed air hose against the hole and you'll pop your part out.
Now that is a good idea! I was kinda fixated with my hickory shafted “persuader”!
That’s a great tip! I was thinking I’d make the mold thinner so it’s easier to smash(!) or submerge in hot water to soften the Mold but this air idea sounds much more elegant! 👍🏻
You could also print the mold in PVA and then just dissolve it in water when you're ready to release your part.
Having just ventured into this myself, I tried the Pin-hole method with little success and had a >50% demoulding success. Instead I introduced a 4mm Hole into the model on the base of the mold, tapped and used a pointed M5 Grub Screw with the point protruding into the bottom of the mould. With this i have a 100% Success rate with demolding.
Awesome suggestion!
Nobody makes anything but rubber bushings for the lower control arm to strut assembly on my project car, and now I'm casting my own poly bushings thanks to your video. Thank you!
Man, you your channel is like an oasis in the middle of the desert. Respect for your all efforts. Greetings from Turkey ✌️
Cheers buddy! Glad you enjoyed it! 👍
Not related to this, but I'm installing an speeduino on my car, and one of the first videos I've saw was yours, so thank you for that. And for the bushings, I'm pretty sure knowing how to make them will be useful eventually.
It’s all just stuff for the future… it not particularly ground breaking but being able to whip these up quick can make life a lot easier….
Best of luck with the Speedy, enjoy it, nothing beats that 1st start feeling! 👍
@@MakingforMotorsport It's all your fault! I was putting off my next project due to the cost of the required ECU (everything else being relatively cheap). Then your video turned up in my feed and everything changed, and I've now got a sea fox UA4C.
Not content with ruining my life once, you then started 3d printing manifolds, which opened up more in my project. Now I've got an Ender 3 and am planning on using polycast to print a manifold and then lost mould cast it. (Although I am really struggling with Fusion, so it may be some way away)
@@benyarlett7878 😬 guilty as charged! 😂, love it that your gonna cast your own manifold! (That’s nothing to do with me - I haven’t done that…. Yet!)
Watch this space for a video on modelling… I’ll show you what I did… I might not be right, but it worked for me 👍
I thought about this speeduino option on my 1955 VW Beetle, rather than going twin carbs, then adding a turbo, with a discs all round conversion.
@@MakingforMotorsport yes please. I cried floods of tears as I watched how easily you made the bush, then the mould. Even sped up, I'd still only have half of a 2d shape in the time you took to make yours. I've even tried making stl files from sketchup, which I can work, but they just don't print properly.
Nice video! Try using a dissolvable filament such as PVA for your molds. This would also allow you to have complex geometries that could not be demolded with mechanical methods.
You sure can drive that thing ! Good job on the mounts , anything is better then broken
I cannot believe I just found this channel... The content is outstanding, fantastic topics. I run a company that does basically exactly what you do on this channel, but for motorcycles. We develop and produce tuning parts (mostly air intake related) with 3D printing and Polyurethane molding.
Cheers bud… still early days for the channel! Sounds good you doing this for a business! Hope business is good! 👍
You are the Neil Buchanan of my adult life thank you. Am loving this channel 👍
That’s simultaneously the strangest comment and the finest compliment I have ever received…. Thank you!
Now I’m off to watch Art Attack!
Got to make some engine mounts and probably some suspension bushes too. This is of interest.
Great work as usual
Glad you’ve enjoyed it…. Just another little technique to put in the memory banks… 👍
@@MakingforMotorsport if you do end up tpu printing bushes that would be an interesting comparison. I've got a BMG clone extruder coming for my ender 3 to make it direct drive, so tpu will be something I can print
Haha… what are the chances literally sitting next to my printer with a little BMG clone ready to go on it sitting on my desk! 😂🤷♂️
@@MakingforMotorsport mine is in transit so you can be the tester for me! Gotta love the number of upgrades available and the ability for the printer to prints its own upgrades
nice footage at the end, cool car!
I really enjoy your vids and the commitment to doing it for fun. I hope you learn a ton and have fun doing it. I always look forward to your videos and I almost want a project of my own to wrench on. Cheers!
Cheers John, I’ve already got a project and I just want another! 😂
Nice job! I'll try myself, thanks for all the infos😊
Nice! For doing prototypes like this i recommend 3 part PU kits. You will get a diffrent hardness depending on the mixing ratio.
Very cool. Seeing how the ideas of making blends with hot rodding is exciting.
Cheers bud, I like the mix of ideas and being able to do more ourselves….
Your channel is amazing. It's something I've been looking for! I love DIY, motorsport and enegineering. Keep up your work!!!
Thanks Alex! DiY with a dollop of science, alittle knowledge and plenty of enthusiasm… 👍
Thank you. I will be trying this as my car (an MV-1) is no longer in production.
Nice. I'm old school and would have bought a new one and pulled a silicon mold of that. I was going to ask a few questions but other folk have already do it so I'm sorted. Great series by the way....
Cheers! I always miss out a few critical details, I might need to pin a comment or two to the top! 😂
You can't give away all your secretes. I totally got what you were doing, It's nice to how other people would go about solving problems. Your obviously very comfortable using computer stuff, and that's the way you resolved your situation. I've been watching AF Mini build his R1 Mini.... again just another way to resolve a situation.
Great idea! I never thought to 3d print molds. In the past I've bought bushings and then made silicone molds of the parts. You can get a few pulls from them but I like the idea of just making some on demand when needed and not having to worry about 2nd or greater generation parts and variations.
I have cast engine mounts in this PU before and had to make a metal mould and had to worry about release agent etc etc…
This way is slightly wasteful but it’s so simple and easy (and I’m lazy soo….. 👍)
great stuff as always
Cheers bud 👍. More coming soon!
Another great video! Can't wait for more
Another one being filmed now!
Awesome, didn't know that was possible. Now I have another great use for my printer!! Thanks for sharing.
There is nothing they can’t do! 👍
Great idea, I like the lost PLA casting as well for metals. I plan to use the printer for gage cluster, HVAC controls, etc. Keep up the great info! Cheers from Oklahoma!
Lost PLA is on my to-do list definitely....
Excellent!!
have your like sir, cheers from Argentina!
Cheers bud, thanks for the 👍 and the Malbec 🍷🍷🍷
@@MakingforMotorsport hahaha! Try the Malbec Septima gran reserva 10 barricas, you will thank me later!
Cheers man! Keep the videos commin'
Great content. I’m watching all of the videos. I’ll be making my own poly bushings for my Alpine soon. Thank you
Alpine? A1xx or GTA???
@@MakingforMotorsport none of the above. The real Alpine. The Rootes one 😂
@@alexgrassi320 wow!! Would not have guessed… (I thought they were all Tigers! 😬🤦♂️😂)
@@MakingforMotorsport I can’t afford a Tiger. Im on a tight budget. That’s why I love your channel
Hey mate. Thanks for opening my eyes to home made polyurethane bushes! I was able to find polyurethane resin at my local fx supplies store and make a set for a custom gearbox mount. Legend!
It's been great to see your experience with prints under the hood too. I've always wondered that.
Keep up the channel its great 👍
A success story, love it! Hope they last well for you, nice work! 👍
Keep your eyes on the channel, plenty of good stuff coming!
Nice work mate, I'll definitely find something that i absolutely have to build a custom bush for now!, nice safety beer placement also
Cheers Colin… you never want to risk dehydration in the workshop… that might be dangerous! 😂
Looking forward to your next video, I need some V6 goodness…
@@MakingforMotorsport the V6 has landed, stay tuned
Next time when your making parts try to use pva relise agent. Its poly vinly alcohol that can be washed with water. I use it in moulds when making fiberglass parts, its super easy for demolding...
Great to see a new video.
Cheers bud! I had a bit of a holiday, and then work…. and then kids! 😫. Good to be back tho… plenty in the pipeline 👍
Thumbs up thanks, more so for the product link, been looking to make my own for ages but could never tell what product I needed !
No problem, it’s just what I’ve used, there might be better or cheaper (but I could t find them 😂)
@@MakingforMotorsport I sent you an email btw.....you might find interesting :)
See it and responded 👍
This seems really interesting and i would love to try it myself.
One thing that comes to mind would be to smooth out the surface of the mould to avoid any mechanical bond happening in the print layers, also, maybe making the moulds in two separate parts having the outer walls being independent from the bottom and the inner cylinder although the compressed air idea i read somewhere in this comment section is probably more effective than the two piece design
Yeah, I’ve moulded engine mounts before and basically did all of the above, a metal mould with release agent etc… but there is something quite liberating about disregarding all of that and just smashing them up!!! (Although it might Engineer some weak points next time 😂)
This is fantastic! A very cool use of 3D printers for budget motorsport. I believe this is an area to watch as 3D printers are criminally under utilised. It'll be very interesting to see what people come up with in the future
That is the good thing about being lazy, I am always looking for ways to make life easier and the 3D printer always helps! 👍
@@MakingforMotorsport Not only does it make your life easier, it often will end up cheaper. I was wondering if in something like an MX5 you could use the carbon fibre filament with 100% infill to make bushings for the subframes.
surprised you didn't give yourself a little bit of draft angle on those. Thanks for the video, I hope your channel grows as I really enjoy the content!
Cheers Ryan. I didn’t bother thinking about release at all because I knew the 3D printed surface texture would still be a mechanical lock… hence smashy smashy! As an educational video I should’ve done more on it…. 🙈
You could use elastomer to make repeatable use moulds and start selling it!
Those bushings looked good. You talked about a draft but I didn't see any. Don't worry about the draft and instead optimize your bushing shape. That mold is going into the garbage either way. Maybe a small arbor press would be faster than cutting them out. It's probably layer lines locking it in the mold, a light sand would take care of that. But all and all the end product looks good, costs much less than a commercial product and offers infinite customization. This is what I wanted the future to be.
Hi there, glad you’re enjoying the videos 👍 I didn’t put any draft on as knew these where going to be destroyed as the layer lines were fighting me, the part is just too small to spend time prepping, although a few people has suggested Vaseline to fill the layer lines which is worth a go. 👍
@@MakingforMotorsport Awesome, make a bunch more!
Release agent on molds. Looks great.
With these layer lines I don’t think it’d stand much chance! 👍 thanks for watching!
Great work! To be honest, this took a different turn than I thought it would. A buddy of mine got some "poly bushings" for his Toyota Starlet earlier this year, and they were 100% 3D printed, probably from TPU or similar. I could tell they were printed from the visual layer lines and print lines on the first and last layer. I figured you were gonna do the same, and watched to see what filament you used. But...I might actually prefer this method.
I have heard that when printed solid the TPU does work well and I have got some to try, but I need to mod my printer first… and that’s a whole other video!😂
For some reason I wouldnt trust 3d printed bushes, plus yeah you'd need to either buy them, or have a printer capable of printing exotic filaments
I 3D print TPU bushes but not for suspension parts, just used for holding power steering pipes. I don’t think fully printed suspension bushes would be a good idea due to layer bonding. Yes TPU does bond well but it’s not 100% guaranteed to have a perfect bond.
I thought the same, that they'd be printed out of TPU. I think it would be worth a try. If a person has a direct drive printer and a high flow hotend (Sidewinder X1 for example) along with a large nozzle they could print a working bushing in a couple of hours at most. If I had a track car project I'd give it a try as I print a lot of TPU.
You legend! Thanks for sharing!
Cheers bud, glad you enjoyed it 👍
I did the same to get some axle sleeves. But as an additional step we put the mould on a lathe first and sanded down the surface to get rid of the fdm typical surface steps
That’s a good shout to be fair… I will have to some engine steadies and OD fit will be more important for that… I’ll give it a go! 👍
With most two-part epoxies, silicones and urethanes, you can increase the pot life by cooling the components in the fridge before pouring. Conversely, you can speed up the cure time by warming the finished part. Better living through chemistry!
I f£&king love science!
Good video 👍 I usually fill the mould with dry rice and then draw a line on my pot. Then just fill it to that level. I'm not good at calculating volume but you've definitely helped me understand from your video.
I made some rear shock bushes for my car and although it was a very good outcome. After a few months one of them fell apart. I need to invest into a pressure pot to push all the bubbles out of the resin for it to hold up better. Even pouring slowly gave me bubbles with a 2 part mould. I hope yours hold up just fine, should do because it's only a small part 👍
It’s another damn good point, degassing is something that industrially is done but rarely is done in a home shop. I wish I’d cut one in half now to see if I had included air… hmmm maybe another video needed 🤔
@@MakingforMotorsport beauty of your part is it's easy to make. Doesn't look too labour intensive to switch them out. I'd like to make rear axle bushes next but that definitely needs pressure when curing
Oh yeah, it’s definitely low risk for me! Subframe bushes however are alittle more involved 😬😂
You're a legend mate ☺️ thank you
Cheers buddy! 👍glad you’re enjoying it!
Definitely need to do this for my 405,
405?? Peugeot 405??? Peugeot 405 GTi???? Peugeot 405 GTi Mi16????? 🙏
Great video, been meaning to try this for years! If you use pla for the mould, you could probably soften it with a heat gun without damaging the bush!
Yeah.... but smashy smashy!!! 😁😁😁🔨
@@MakingforMotorsport good point!
I've been making 3D printed molds for my Autobianchi A112 engine mounts. Next time you should try to add some mold release compound to the mold and a draft angle to the design. It will be much easier to remove it from the mold. It makes it reusable too. Great video
Yeh, I did exactly the same when I made engine mounts for the vauxhall engine conversion, and in retrospect I should’ve done that here as it would’ve made a better video, but truth is I couldn’t be bothered so I went with the smashy smashy release agent instead… 😂🔨.
@@MakingforMotorsport What about squeezing the final product in your vice? Would that have cracked the mold. leaving you to peal the plastic off, like peeling a hard boiled egg.
What 3d printer and app you use?
Use spokes to hold the center part and place the mold on some monster clay that you extrude through a pasta roller for an even surface. I used to make Packard Dashboard Plastic for the 1939 and 1940 cars Really fun stuff. Thanks for the videos
Great tip!
Found this by coincidence, Nice Video, cheers !
No problem… it’s a good kitt
Nice video! Next time try to make split molds and some release agent
Seen as finding Polyurethane bushings for something like my 2000 Daihatsu Cuore is so difficult, I reckon I'll try this over the coming summer for engine mounts and other parts alike.
Give it a go mate! Definitely worth it…
Just a thought but maybe try using a pva for printing the moulds which you can just devolve in water as I am sure you know already. Obviously it's more expensive than pla but maybe worth it. It will certainly be less of a issue getting the parts out the mould .... love the channel 👌
if the outside diameter is not to critical id put a draft angle on the bushing to help it release better, and maybe some mold release if it doesn't mess up the polyurethane
Yeah, I didn’t just to keep it simple but I should’ve put a draft just for demonstration in the video…
My thoughts on your mold, might have been able to make the outer shell thinner, and turned it sideways in the vise and used the vise to crack it.
Great work well done.
Cheers buddy! Yeah, doing it again that’s exactly what I’d do with these bushes…
If you had 0.5degree draught you could possibly have used a air compressor gun to blow it out.
The other thing is just 3d print the bushing in TPU. Tu85a or something.
What about using mold release? Nice job especially what you did on CAD!
Amazing job man 👌🏻 You should allso tell us price difference to show us if it's worth it 😂 but defenitely amaznig, how You can take theoretical skills and make practical solutions, I love it.
Maybe next time while creating the mold. Include a handle to easily remove it out using the vice or other tools. Great stuff🤙🏽
There are a few things I could do to improve demoulding… ‘cus the ballpeen really didn’t work 😂
Great job! A tip I used for mines is to use 2 cylinders, and align them the best I could do they were concentric, and on the bottom a piece of cardboard anf plastiline to use a a sealant on the outside, worked well!
A question I asked you long ago mate, have you figured out a cheap way to install a WB O2 sensor and controller for the speeduino? Or are you running an off the shelf one, or a narrowband one? Cheers!
I am running an Innovate LC2 so off the shelf, I have bought a bare board type Wideband controller to test back to back with the Innovate, but that gonna be a test for next year as the engine is about to come out for the winter.
You could have used wate disolveable filament for easy peeling.
I have never tried the PVA filaments… might give ‘em a go…
Perhaps a "draft" angle in the mold would aid in releasing, so good to listen to proper engineering speak
A draft angle would be helpful, but, and I think I said this in the video but maybe not, the layer lines on the 3D print will likely give a mechanical lock anyway, so I resigned myself early on to just smashing them up!
Great video! Could you have put the moulds and bushing in hot water to soften the plastic?
Unsure if the bushing would be ok with this?
It’s a good idea and for some materials it’d work, but I used ABS which has about the same temp resistance as the polyurethane. They’d both survive the water but it wouldn’t change much… smashy smashy has it for me! 😂🔨
@@MakingforMotorsport haha yea I enjoyed the smashing!
Great idea tho and another thing to use the ender 3 for!
Good channel mate
Very nice idea, going to have a go at this for sure. How strong does it bond to the PLA? Would a release agent help? How do you clean them up? Freeze and then sand?
I used ABS (my cheap hot end doesn’t like PLA) and the PU doesn’t bond at all so you don’t need to worry about a chemical barrier and by destroying the mould it makes life easy….
I wasn’t worried about surface finish but certainly you could acetone smooth if you’re using ABS or sand with PLA, but all of that felt like lots too much effort 😂
@@MakingforMotorsport ah sorry mate I meant freeze the poly bush and then either turn it or sand the bits off!
Try putting a thin layer of Vaseline in the moulds as a release agent. I find its thick enough to fill in the layer lines in the printed mould and also a lot cheaper than other urethane release agents.
That’s a good idea… I’ll try the Vaseline trick next time… but I do like the smashy smashy 🤔👍
That's really impressive. Do you have a suggestion on the ideal printer to get I'm completely new to this. I've used autocad but that is all.
Cheers bud! As it happens the next video (nearly ready) has a run down of the printer I use which handles all the higher spec stuff aswell…
And I am gonna be talking about the 3D modelling very soon so 2D autoCad is a great start! 👍
Since the polyurethane is just poured in at room temperature and not under any additional pressure, maybe you can adjust the mold design to have 8 vertical notches along the outer circumference like on the crust of a pizza pie after being sliced, and a ridge along the circumference of the bottom face, so that when you apply some pressure in the vice the mold just breaks at those points.
Absolutely that would help, if/when do this again I will either setup to properly remove the part (better surface finish and draft angles etc) or engineer in some weak points… that said it really didnt take very long and everyone enjoys a good smashy smash…
A thinner outside wall on the mould may make it easier to peel off. It only needs enough to maintain shape really
Oh yes… next time absolutely!
good
I've been considering doing this for the bushings on my home built mid engine buggy. I'm using a VW 07k N/A 5 cylinder and Boxster 5 speed transaxle. I don't really want to be bothered trying to find bushings I can use or building it around easy to find off the shelf ones. Why not make them instead?
That sounds like proper monster.... It gives you more freedom when designing to know you don't have to worry about whether you can buy things for not.... well I could've bought these but you know what I mean...
Did you need to allow for any shrinkage during the curing process?
Hi, there are also some preparation surface additives to help you take off the parts of the mold. I have been thinking into doing this bushings for sale ¿Did you calculate the cost of each one? Best regards and thanks for sharing
Bought for a load of money powerflex bushes, they don't even bother removing the original mini logos from the moulds they made them from or from the final product, was quite disappointing to see, but guess, it doesn't bother others as much lol
I've tried to make an engine mount on my alfa Romeo 159 by reusing an old engine mount. First I dissolve old rubber with phosphoric acid 80%. Painfully slow process. Then filled it up with Polyurethane A60. To stop pu spiling away I made bottom from cardboard - when installed in car vibrations in the car was worse compared to worn out engine mount.
After a month of adaptation, I order an OEM engine mounts. My design might be succeeded if tried imitate (empty spaces) structure which were in old engine mount.
I know of people filling up the spaces in a OEM mount with PU to stiffen them up… I think to keep NVH down there is a lot of work that goes into them by the manufacturer…
@@MakingforMotorsport I've tried filling gaps with PU on other engine mount but the results were the same. Having only weekend not so much time left for R&D when project car also is daily car :D
You should be able to remove those bushings from the molds pretty easily at 40C to 45C if its PLA. All of my PLA stuff turns to goo in a car on a sunny day.
Unfortunately its ABS... was expecting it to be easier, I may make some concessions to the smash up (demould) in the future!
Great vid, How did you learn to do cad? I know there are videos, but there are soo many that the information is over abundance and different video to video.thanks
Cheers bud, glad you enjoyed it 👍. I learnt 2D CAD at Uni (I did Mech Eng) but 3D modelling I taught myself ages ago, before even the days of CZcams tutorials…
I will be doing a detailed 3D modelling at exactly my process, which probably isn’t the “right” way of doing it but it gets the job done! 😀
@@MakingforMotorsport yeah you have me interested in making an itb set up for my k20 swap Mgb,that I’m working on now. But I’m going to have to start learning on how to do it. As I already own a 3d printer I have been put putting around with for a little while.
Interesting vid! Did you do a cost analysis? Was it actually cheaper to DIY over shop bought?
Hmm… didn’t crunch the numbers, but sitting here, the PU is about £40/kg and I used 100g for 6 bushes, so that’s roughly £0.66 per bush, the ABS used for the moulds is £14/kg and I used I think 15g/mould so that’s £0.21 so that’s £0.81/bush.
Mini spares sells a car set (4 bushes) for £4.20 vs £3.64… so cheaper… and that doesn’t count the £5 postage I need to buy them aswell!
@@MakingforMotorsport So about a bag of crisps cheaper, and more fun too!👍 Does your Ender 3 print ABS ok? Mines starts off ok, but then seems to clog the nozzle every time. 😢
I have no problems with ABS, just warping on the larger, thinner prints.
@@MakingforMotorsport the opnly thing I can print in abs is a scale model of spaghetti!!😂
Would it be easier if you were to print the moulds with a hole down the centre? That way you could run a drill down the guts and precisely remove the print material
It might be, it wasn't too tricky to be honest, but I thought it was going to be easier than it was😂
I really like what you are doing, but I would be hesitant to use self-made at higher speeds at critical parts. So i think you have to be aware at the stresses of the pieces. For example, engine mounts or inserts are fine, but self-made wishbone bushes, i am afraid, haha :D. A year into it, how have they held up?
How come you didnt use some mould release spray first? They sell it on mfbfibreglass where you got the resin from (i used the fc8000 polyeurethane kit)
I have some, but I was fairly sure that I would get a mechanical lock from the layer lines so I thought just f?&k it and smash ‘em up 🤷♂️
I am thinking of making suspension bushings for my sons atv out of nylon or abs, any suggestion?
Depends what you want to do, both of those materials offer very little compliance, and (afaik) aren’t castable at home as the PU is here, they are more likely injection moulded. Why not PU?
Nice! Do you know/can estimate whereabouts these are on shore hardness?
85A… I should’ve made a bigger deal of that in the video! 🙈
@@MakingforMotorsport thanks!
Have you considered 3D printing bushings from tpu?
I printed some spring seats for the rear suspension to test it out from 58D/100A tpu material. It worked ok but its obvious that its not oem. So casting could make them look more proper for the road officials ;)
Where u bought the polyurethane 2 part solution?
👍2 the moon!!
Cheers bud!
I'd go with thinner walls, easier to destroy. Maybe print the molds in TPU
I know! For all the life of my i thought it’d be easier 😂. I think TPU and air removal truck might be the job…
What 3D Modeling (Design) Software Are you using?
I am using Fusion360. It’s not the best software out there but it is has everything I need and it’s freeeeeee!
Hello! Have you ever tried using ninjaflex as a filament in the printer and perhaps printing the bush out directly? would make for interesting content!
I’ve not tried it but it’s definitely on the list… and I do have some Shore 85A TPU waiting to go… 🤔
if you put weak point in your print
makes it easier to demould
Yeah… I wasn’t thinking that far ahead! 😂
Looks like i'll be buying a 3d printer
What software?
Finding bushes for older cars that don't have a cult following is getting harder all the time. We couldn't find front control arm bushes for one of our projects and had to pull some used ones from a junkyard car. This would have been a much better option, of course, home 3d printers were years away, but we have one now.
I wonder if compressed air would pop em out. I know you say pennies, but iv been without a job for too long, so ill save pennies when i can.
Sucks to hear that man, hope you get back in a job you like soon! 👍
The compressed air trick does work some of the time on normal reusable moulds but I think with the 3D prints and the layer lines it’s always gonna be tricky
@@MakingforMotorsport Thanks. In 2 days im finished with 2 out of 6 month course leading to becoming a certified welder. Its not all bad having little money, iv learn to see value in reuse or repurpose junk or stuff people give away. Last week i collected a large aluminum sign that will be perfect to turn into custom door cards or maybe even a custom dashboard.
@@myshopmyrules.3017 good man, love that your getting the full welders certs, you can send over some tips! 👍
I have a garage full of old 40x40 box that was guard rail and is now my work bench and toolbox trolley… not material goes in the trash near me!
Looks like I need to take a class or two on fusion 360
Well I have one of those planned for a week or two… 👍
Interesting, how much did you pay for the polyurethane mix and pigment?
About £20 for 500g so that’s easily make 35 of these bushes. It’s not a hell of a lot cheaper than buying but it’s definitely more fun 👍
@@MakingforMotorsport You sure save money compared to not being able to buy any bushings for some more complex ones... Like motor mount bushings.
Absolutely, it’s cheap for these simple ones… another good use is for filling in the holes on OEM engine mounts, often there is lots air around the rubber and just by pouring in this stuff to the gaps stiffens it up nicely 👍
I find skate board wheels turned to size are better. And come in many sizes and hardness
Why not fill the cup with 3 moulds of water. Mark a level on the cup. Fill with 3 more moulds of water and mark a level and then add your pigment. That would give you a little bit over.
Great idea!
Love your efforts, but wouldn’t it be good to vacuum chamber the mix?
Also I love your efforts breaking apart the mould’s. 😂😂
You could design the mould to be strong but break easy when a flathead screwdriver is inserted and twisted.😑😑😑
Yeah… these could be improved and vacuum would improve them but there weren’t that many air bubbles in there as I cut one apart to check (which I really should have filmed 🤦♂️)
Did the same with some failing engine mounts on my old Starlet and used exactly the same resin. Make sure you choose a sensible shore rating for the application, powerflex have some charts matching their various coloured bushing to shore ratings so definitely worth a look there too. Great video!
I chose an 85a PU which translates well to the Powerflex fast road, I think only their “black” series is harder… to be honest, it’s likely that these will be replaced with Rose Joints at some point so the harder the better 😂
@@MakingforMotorsport Oh yeah you made the right choice for the suspension bushes but 85a on engine mounts will rattle your teeth out ahaha
I would have scrapped the poly bushes and used rose joints
Yeah I thought about it, but I needed something that got the car out in and I didn’t have time to get into chopping the subframe about (engine out etc), but they are definitely on the to do list!
i couldnt buy bushings for my car like a normal person, just printed them with tpu.. have been running ~13k km's now
I’d hate to be a normal person! 😂.
I have a reel of 85a tpu ready as a direct comparison… just wanna get my printer direct drive first…. But sounds like it’s a winner 👍
@@MakingforMotorsport im totally abnormal, but actually there are no poly bushes available for the car, soi had to make them or browse universal sizes. im using a Polish filament, 98sha i think it was
98A? Nice 👍. You won’t be complaining about it being sloppy with those in! Great that they are standing up to the application even in that hardness.
Wouldn't it have been easier to just print it as TPU and then anneal it, instead of casting it?
Maybe… but that was gonna be another video! 😂
I'm like "great, I need some new bushes and mine are really expensive, this could be handy"
Then you're like "just pull out your 3d printer....."
Sorry dude! I have used metal moulds for these in the past and instead of the 3D printer I would just stick’em on the lathe! Or weld them up…
Alternatively you can use a soft rubber to cast a mould off an original.
I would almost guarantee if you get a 3D printer you won’t regret it, especially if you can get your head around the modelling…
@@MakingforMotorsport the first video of this I watched ages ago was "make a mold on the lathe...."
I don't have one of those either!
I'll just buy bushes like a chump....
It’s a tough decision, but having things like a welder, lathe, 3D printer etc are long term money savers, just not in the short term… (my TIG was £750 so I could weld Aluminium 😳🙈😫)
@@MakingforMotorsport I bought a good welder and have an old MIG with an argon cylinder and Teflon liner that does pretty good aluminium welding. I'd like to tig bit don't have the time to practice. I've done a bit but really need a pulse and pedal and large cup and short tungsten and lots of time!
I'd love a lathe. I've been looking at the small lathe/mill machines since really all I'll be doing is motor mounts and small joints and little parts so I really don't need anything huge and cumbersome.
But $1500 is money that could have the car on track instead of a lathe that will stall the project in the short term.
One day maybe.
If I ever get another shed I'll buy an old full size lathe. I don't need huge amounts of precision.
@@1one3_Racing yeah, it’s always a trade off. For the last few years time has been my problem so i have made sure I have everything…. Still need a mill and a belt grinder tho…. And maybe a tube bender… oooh and I’d love a plasma cutting table… 😂😂 it never stops 🤷♂️😫
ive actually crapped myself watching this
Crapped yourself… in a good way? 🙈
@@MakingforMotorsport yes! this is some next level at home work! im going to make some "breast cancer pink" bushing for my miata
Why didn't he just print the bushing in TPU?
my thots. i own some tpu and i was looking for a video about it. amazon says the tpu is type: 95a
Thermoplastic is terrible for strut rod bushings. On my project car, they only lasted a few months before falling apart with just ordinary street driving. Poly is the way to go...
@@daileydriven gotcha. Thx for the heads-up from someone who's tried it
I’ve done some similar sandwich bushes in TPU for my BMW. Printed solid. They are holding so far to some “enthusiastic” driving 😂🤞
@@MakingforMotorsport hey let us know if it keeps holding up. Cool stuff