Watch this before fitting Poly Bushes.
Vložit
- čas přidán 9. 06. 2024
- If you have squeaking Polly bushes or are contemplating fitting Polly bushes then this video is a must watch.
You can contact me via email:
ricksgarage916@yahoo.com
Find me on Instagram:
@ricksgarage916 - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Listen to this man, he knows what he speaks of. Been doing this for years....
Plumber here , you can get slightly heavier PTFE Tape used for Gas fittings , it comes in the same container but is Yellow coloured . ! 🚙
The oxygen rated stuff?
This is the definitive tecnique. I've poly bushed my E46 and it works so well thanks Rick💪💪👍👍
3 years ago I replaced every single bushing, suspension & steering, on my daily driver Infiniti Qx4. I coated everything with white silicone brake grease. Even after occasional off-roading, I have not heard one squeak. 😉
Videos like this are golden nuggets of information. Great explanation of why not just how. 👍🏻
BRILLIANT!!!!!absolutely brilliant!!! Thank you from California!!!!
Great tip. I used Teflon before to make things slippery but I didn't think about using it on bushes. This is a good video to watch just before buying and installing poly bushes.
This is a very useful tip. I sometimes get a squeak from the poly bushes on the front GTA ARB but to be fair once regreased with copper grease they quieten down again. Will definitely apply the ptfe tape next time it's taken apart.
Especially with bushings that are a little loose because of improper manufacturing, this kind of system will help out a lot. I love attention to detail such as this.
should i do this also with rear subframe mounting bushings. Going with strongflex which is little bit cheaper so it might have more looser tolerances. My bushings are shot on my e46 330d on the subframe and rtab going with poly and replacing almost all bushings because i have to drop the whole rear subframe
Well explained and a great preventative. I will be doing this when I do my GTV 3.0 V6
Great idea im in process of changing bushes on my car found this video useful thanks rick keep up the great content..best wishes
Thanks very much Rick. I'll be doing my morris bushes in due course. Very helpful.
This is a God tier tip. Thanks for sharing!
I like the idea and the demonstration. I have superpro bushes on my discovery and they don’t squeak but if/when they do I will use this technique.
Thank you.
Perfektní práce a skvělý nápad
Every day you can learn something new, Thanks for that!
Great tip. Never heard of using Teflon tape for this, thx. Using for bushing replacements on 2000 Ford Ranger truck. Will use. Thx again
I will give this a try with some bushings I have for my Mazda, great looking technique, essentially free and makes good sense
Hi Rick, thank you for the tips. I have bought Powerflex bushes for the upper wishbone and ARB (Eibach) bushes for my 156. Tomorrow I will mount them and I will use your method. 🍀👍
The video came just in time for you then! Haha. Good luck 🤌🏼🇮🇹🍀
The bushes I’ve used are such a tight push fit that I needed a vice to press them in. Maybe they’ve improved.
I just want something that doesn’t rot in a year like all the new reproduction rubber bushes seem to.
Getting ready to do this on my LCAs so may give it a try. Thanks!
Very clever. Thank you!
Thanks for the tip. Going to go thru the car and do it! Awesome!
Great knowledge shared bro much appreciated
Excellent tip. Thanks!
brilliant, thank you Rick!
Thanx, just fitted poly bushes to the front ARB of my CLK. So lets see if it starts squeeking soon.
I will do the job again ur way if it does !!
Thank you for making this
Phenomenal Video!
for anyone thinking of going poly bushings super pro does some poly bush kits that both dont need servicing and a have a no squeak guarantee, they will replace any bushings within the 30 year warranty not 100% on it its on all their kits but for mx5's they'll do it (providing you are the original purchaser and have the invoice) if you are wanting to go poly especially for street use cant recommend them enough have met people at track days running them 10yrs+ without greasing or squeak if you can find a kit for your car from them super worth not having to worry about greasing every 5k, also suprisingly good with keeping nvh down especially for poly
Really good informative video
Great idea
Great DIY 👍👍
Great video and thank you for the tips your video reminds me of watching art attack when i was a kid 😂
Hi Rick, great vid as usual.
You can get PTFE bearing spray lubricant(dry film) at any half good bearing supplier. Personally I prefer silicone paste/grease but whatever works.
Thank you sir and thanks for the comments. Yes the PTFE spray does work great but only lasts for a short time before the bush starts squeaking again after a month or two. At least by the experience of some fellow car enthusiasts
Thank you very much sir
Another great video! Really need to attack my GTV at some point!
never had a bushing go in that easy, maybe tape will help? Let you know soon...
Brilliant!
Awesome advice I will try this I use another secret method. To various success
Thank You!!!!
Awesome vid Rick. I have a 2007 300C that I want to overhaul the suspension on. I have a question though,, why doesn't anyone add grease fitings anymore? Way back I had a 1992 Chev Lumina 2-door coupe that I got tired of having to disassemble my front brake calipers to regrease the sliders. I put on a lot of miles back then. Every second weekend I drove to get my daughter. 250 kms one way so that made it a 1000 km weekend twice per month. What can I say, I love my daughter. :}
Anyways, I installed grease fittings on the caliper housing to lube the sliders. Poked a hole in the rubber seals. Careful to inject the grease slowly.
Why isn't anyone installing grease fittings on these bushings so you don't have to take everything apart to re-grease the bushings? Used to get a GOF at the garage. Grease/Oil/Filters. No more, just a "OF" lol. Cheer mates from Canada.
Excellent!
Brilliant that 👏🏼
I'm installing a full kit for my c5 z06 atm and decided to drill/tap in zerk fittings for easy yearly greasing. The kit was so tight on its own there would be no way to do this for my particular car. I think being able to use a grease gun on them every year will do the trick.
Y'know, I've been dicking around with cars since I could hold a spanner and have never come across this! Genius! Might have saved the swearing involved in the front end of my 147! I've moved on to a giulietta now and up until 20 minutes ago I was 50/50 on poly bushing the rear end (a common issue!). I think I'm sold... Thanks mate!
Comments likes this are very rewarding. Much appreciated 👍🏼
@@_RicksGarage hope you're right boss, I've just done the whole back end of the giulietta (shocking job!) and took your advice on each and every one of them! Silence so far... 👍😊
@@egon2875 excellent! Congrats. Hopefully it’ll stand the test of time for you. Ideal timing to get the job done before the end of season too 👍🏼
Great tip, I will try this next time I use Polly
Who is Polly?
Your girlfriend?
Impressive, is this for a new install, used or both? Thanks, learned something here!👍
Timely video as I'm about to replace bushings on front and back sway bars of truck. Have you tried PTFE anti-seize compound?
I will try PTFE tape on one sway bar and PTFE anti-seize compound on the other and see how they get on.
any update on this?
Thx 👍
everyone needs to know about this
If this is a concern, epoxy the poly bush into the arm. This part is not supposed to move. But you can ptfe or lube the centre metal bush all you want . Thats the bit that is designed to slip.
When you say ‘centre metal bush’ are you referring to the ‘ inner metal sleeve’,? if so, it is not designed to move when torqued down. Reference video: czcams.com/video/8Ex0dGojHZI/video.html . if not, what part exactly do you mean?
He’s right the bush is not designed to spin in the arm, the bush is designed to pivot on the tube.
The grease is used on the tube as it’s slid into the bush.
love it nice 1
Brilliant
PTFE tape = Teflon tape for us Yanks.
Cheers mate!
It is more effective to start furthest from the leading edge and finish with it overlapping the leading edge, which prevents it rucking up when pressed into the orifice.
Excellent guide.
At 8:14 you mention a little overlap of ptfe tape on the stainless insert. I watched a video earlier where a guy in the U.S. gives a similar demonstration. He states no overlap on the stainless insert.
I have no good reason to doubt either of you, but can you see it from a viewers point of view? Which option should I go with? I think his concern is that it may bunch up. I would think bunching would be more likely to happen with an exposed edge. I kind of answered my own question there. 😂
The video is titled "How to Fix Polyurethane Bushing Squeak Permanently." The segment starts around the two minute mark.
It will be messy, but graphite power works wonders as a bushing lubricant.
Wish id seen this before mine were fitted a few months back.
Maybe a little project for the future 👍🏼
Could this method apply to rear leaf spring bushings? Thanks
Does this method work for the Rear Lower Control Arm Bush and Front Strut Top Mount Bush?
so what about the single one piece bushes like powerflex are now making?
Just refreshed rear suspension on mine and I’ve kept to oe bushes just put better quality springs and shocks on I’m happy with the ride and I’m happy to keep my bush standard !😂
Haha some say the best way. I’m getting rid of my Eibach Springs and returning to OEM
@@_RicksGarage good idea. The eibach springs on the V6 have never really been a favourite with many owners. Although only a drop of 20mm for the pro springs I think even this is too much for the v6 models. They do work better on the TS though. Either way if you return to standard that should solve any problems with the camber!
@dean Stanley hopefully you fitted the rose jointed bushes on the spring pan arms. These are available now from a few suppliers such as eb spares. These rose jointed bushes are the same as fitted to the V6 the JTS and the very last of the TS. They preserve the passive steering effect on the rear. I haven't had any problems though with the poly bushes on my Spider. The lateral dog leg arms are really good with poly bushes it's the spring pan arms that are crucial in this respect.
@@ds1868 you are absolutely correct. My days of driving undrivable cars and dodging potholes are behind me. I need the car to be useable for touring. Like you say, it should also fix my camber and stop scrubbing the rear arch liners too
@@_RicksGarage yes there should be no need to slot those holes in the upper wishbone arms Rick. Any adjustment to the rear can be kept to the toe which is easily adjusted with the two swivel rods. Would be interested to know the springs you will use. If you have a set of oe springs that's by far the best option. If a bit rusty they can be shot blasted and powder coated. The oe springs on the 916 are known to be very strong. I've never heard of one actually breaking. I know some people have used Suplex springs but not everyone completely happy with those. Still would be better than lowering with eibach.
Can you advise on any brand please . I am looking at poly bushings for Lexus is300
Has anyone used graphite powder? you can make your own basically sanding a pencil. Graphite is an excellent dry lubricant
Do you think this would be worth doing in rear axle bushes?
Rick gdje da nabavim polietilenske čahure imas li kakvu ideju mozda savjet .poz
You just use a heap of retaining compound on the outside and it locks the bush into the arm so it doesn't move and squeak
Hi Rick, there are many brands of Polyurethane bushes, Polybush is a brand, you currently have Powerflex-branded polyurethane bushes, so using the word Polybush is a little bit misleading.
BUT... Your Polyurethane bushes squeak because the grease / lubricant attracts dirt, this creates a grinding paste which wears away the bush - We manufacture our bushes to NOT use grease or lubricant and for the bush material the move, rather than the tube move within the bush. Powerflex have the tube move within the bushing, means you have a bearing (technically) and a bearing with no lubricant isn't ideal.
So, although using PTFE tape on the outside of the bushing/tube will absolutely work to take up the slack in the bush in the housing or the tube in the bush. It won't necessarily solve the problem long-term as the same thing can happen again, grease attracts dirt, dirt and rotation creates wear and so on.
Also if your bushings do indeed have a stainless tube, you should really protect against galvanic corrosion, between the stainless tube and the non-stainless bolt.
Cheers & Top video.
The problem is that you guys don't makes any bushes for more modern cars, not even a single product for BMW F chassis.
@@user-yb2tp4qf1r We make lots of bushes for modern cars, in fact our best-selling bush is for a Ford Fiesta - But you're right, we don't really make anything for BMW.
We don't really have an outlet for them hence why we don't.
Does the manufacturer recommend ptfe tape along with supplied grease? I doubt it. Not necessary in my opinion.
Hi, what about the black Powerflex ?
You used the black series? I get squeak lol will try your method see how I get on and report back
Using the tape is a great idea. As you said I have heard of people never having a noise issue using the tape. I think you could take it even a step further. For instance if using these on a sway bar, first treat the area of the bar that the bushing goes over with a Teflon spray or even a good ceramic coating and allow it to cure. Then apply a single layer of tape over that area along with grease. On the bushing wrap a single layer of tape around it and apply your grease and install it on the bar. I think this approach would keep them good for a long time especially if the car is not a daily driver.
Could you help me to find a supplier of steering and suspension bushings for a 1979 Datsun Laurel 200L the one with square headlights? Thanks in advance👍
Burnish tungsten disulfide into the bushing and especially the sleeve.
not heard that before well done with the fix , as a ex machanic that tells me the bushes are a ill fitting and move around in the housing ???????? if that`s the case how about glueing them in with no nail`s / sealent / epoxy resin . that should work just like the PTFE tape ?????
Poly bushed my 159 front took them all back off apart from roll bar and replaced with oe rubber.
Silicone spray made them worse lol.
Got fed up with people looking as my car squeaked by like an old bed mattress.
Perfect analogy 😂. Yes I know of many people who experienced the same issue with same outcome as yourself.
Hi Rick, did you cover how to remove old bushes before fitting poly bushes in the rear suspension in any of your earlier videos? If not any chance of just running through the steps? Obviously you can't show the steps but any pointers before I start this job myself? Thanks, Joe.
Hi Joe. I’m working on a questions and answers episode and I’ll include information about this job in that episode if that’s ok. It’ll be easier to explain 👍🏼
Also don't get why the purple bits were PTFE? I thought the metal pin is the only part that moves ? I may be wrong
Kudos on the shop. I would love to be as neat and complete in my shop. But I think you are creating a hybrid solution that is a lot of work where you could simply use the appropriate grease. Rather than having mechanical tape and very light grease what you want is a very tacky and waterproof grease, one that will stay put and not get squeezed out. The correct grease is not the kind usable in steel bearings. Again you need a very tacky one. Engineer Butler Boyd helped me as his customer with his engineered race shackles and poly bushings.
I actually installed one of those powerflex bushes on my shitbox two days ago. Mainly because it saved me the hassle of removing a drive shaft and refilling the gearbox just to replace an engine mount...
But I digress. The "grease" he is using is actually more akin to an assembly paste similar to what you're advising yourself. I'm not sure I'd even refer to it as grease given how thick and tacky it is.
I've got a big tub of a similar paste I use on my mountainbike. (Morgan Blue Aquaproof paste) I'm curious if it isn't simply the same stuff.
@@Ahapenootjes Yeah I'm not sure but I work on bicycles too. You can't have too many tools in your toolbox.
For my 71-73 Mustang many years back during the 90's I got from Pro Motorsports in Sandy Utah and the engineer there Boyd very nice Super Shackles for use with leaf springs, of course poly bushes with that compound.
Why don't the supplies mention this and what is their opinion on this i wonder
Where do you stand on freezing bushings before installation ? Should I be freezing rubber or polyurethane bushings before insulation? Is it best practice or a waste of time?
It can help if the pressing of the bushing are extremely tight, some control arm or trailing arm bushings are ridiculously low tolerance and borderline need to be machine pressed to fit, so in those cases, hell yeah
Thanks for the tip, I'm about to fit a full set of poly bushes to my car. But if I can give advise in return, flip your PTFE roll around. As you wrap it around the sleeve, the tape hangs from the side facing you, but if you flip it so it hangs on the back side, wrapping it in the same direction as you did will naturally keep tension on the tape, making it easier to handle.
It isn’t just poly bushes that squeak when worn. The standard rubber bushes do too. Always fit them with red rubber grease. It lasts 5 years plus easily.
Tried this method and it worked for about 80% of my bushings, but i've got a couple that are just TOO tight of a fit and they constantly bunch up the tape even with the twisting and tightly wound tape. Any one had luck finding a way around this?
In my opinion where the tape is just a no go because it's so tight,I would consider some kind of waterproof tacky grease or maybe even Graphite..
is that silicone grease?
Yes, it’s the kind you need.
Author fix would be turn the radio up , lol
you use the same emblem as a spanish car cannel lmao
One of the best video's on bushings: czcams.com/video/8Ex0dGojHZI/video.html These are custom but the same should apply. Shame we don't have old school grease nipples on modern cars.
I cant hear the squeaking over the V8 so it works out well 🤣
They should be greasable. It is that simple but manufactures are not supplying what should be. This is an OK work around.
It’s 25p. Cheap as chips.
Where’s your chippy? I need to know!
I think they give a harsh ride without enough noticeable benefit to many drivers.
I have never had a poly bush squeek. I just never fit any. Rubber only for me.
just a bit confused here, as i understand the Poly bush and whatever part its mounted into are supposed to be rigidly connected, the movement occurs between the poly bush and the steel insert which is clamped by whatever it attaches to. So does adding lubrication where you did initially not cause the bushing to potentially rotate in the wrong place?
Hi quality bushing are very unlikely to sqeek . Its 1/ the recipe of ingredients .2/ hardness Always buy the softest bushings called DURO. 3/ some brands come with graphite coating ...... NB poor bushing chemistry also causes old bushes to crumble . NB2 hard bushings wear steel away ... NB 3 PTFE food grease [will not damage bush] and dry sprays are also available
Per forza ti scricchiolano le boccole, non devi mettere il grasso tra la boccola e il braccio, devi metterlo solo tra la boccola ed il distanziale al centro. La boccola deve rimanere ferma rispetto al braccio, non deve muoversi. Solo il distanziale deve muoversi
Only a shaved bush is a good bush... just saying
Me watching this after i did one side...
Let's not forget than putting poly bushes on your car increases vibration and rattle.