P0401 on the 6.7 Powerstroke
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- čas přidán 20. 03. 2015
- On this video I try to explain possible causes of the reoccuring P0401 code. Please let the video be your best instruction. Some questions I can't answer on video.
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It's nice to see someone actually repair a problem instead of throwing expensive parts at it. Another great job and video, Ron.
Your the best in the business! Very very very missed. RIP
Hi ron, your the Ford diesel go to guy.i am looking for some of the diagnosis and pid values that leads you into the directions you take when troubleshooting. I think some of the lean diagnostics you do are great. Thanks for your help. You have helped me out a lot.
Please do more 6.7 videos, good vid, thx!
Good video, to the point. Thanks!
Great video. Solved my problem.......
Excellent video!!!
I just deleted mine. Never had an issue after that
Great Video
Very informative. Did you take the upper intake off to remove EGR cooler housing and service coolers? What soap did you use to remove soot?
Like the 6.7 l its good to get tip on to fix it.
I wish you could of done the complete video of the removal could of help me a ton right now. Do I have to remove the whole cooler from the intake or can the cooler slide out once you remove the egr.
good information....
Ron, This inspired me to check up on the 2011 6.7 I just purchased. It has 130k on it and threw code 0401 2 weeks after I purchased it. When I pulled my EGR it looked exactly like the one in the video. Some simple water based degreaser, a straightened coat hanger, and a garden hose did the trick. Nicely done, mate.
+Pfister 1 How difficult is it to remove the EGR cooler? Also should I have replacement gaskets/seals on hand? Will Ford have them in stock? Thanks for the clarification
The gaskets were rubber rings embedded into the cylinder head. Didn't need a new set. They were not the "plate" type gaskets ford usually has. I would get a set of stubby swivel end wrenches from the clearance aisle somewhere, the "hooked bracket" for the turbo pressure sensor behind the EGR cooler has limited bolt access. Also, use extreme caution removing the exhaust plumbing bolts, I had one break off, luckily, there was just enough room to drill and tap with a cordless right angle drill. Follow any instructions from an aftermarket EGR delete system, recommend Sinister diesel's color instructions. Good luck. ~Pfister
Would a Power washer work, or just plug up the other end of the other cooler rad?
DieselTechRon Did you remove the EGR housing too or just the cooler core?
What if there is oil leaking from the hose where it says it may show up as an oil leak? Mines been leaking since 100 k and I was still on warranty the dealer told me it was normal?
good ol EGR, on LML duramax engines we see alot of by-pass valves...
This is awesome. Is it hard to get to ? Most shops take you for a ride. Thanks
So is there an actual recall for this or just a tsb? I know there was a recall for a reprogram on the scr system.
Hi, I have a 2011 f350 6.7 which keeps throwing code P0489 (EGR control circuit low). When I delete the code it just comes back in immediately. Truck runs and sound normal and for the life of me I can't figure out what is causing this code. Please help me look in right direction. Thanks!
Hey Ron, would love if you could show your removal process for the internal cooler. The WSM says to remove the upper intake and bla bla bla. other guys say they have success with removing the pcm and accessing the rear bolt through the created room. it looks as if you just pulled the EGR valve off the front and left the case sitting on the valve cover. were you able to pull the cooler tubes out with the case still on the valve cover?
thanks
Chris
I would remove the cooler housing, it has two o rings and gasket that should be replaced
Good info. but I have a couple of questions... How difficult is it to remove the EGR cooler? Also will Ford have the gaskets/seals in stock or will I need to order them? I have an 2011 F250 diesel, Lariat FX4 with 130k miles and engine code of P0401. Thanks for the help.
The EGR cooler is not too difficult to remove. You just need to disconnect several components. Once you do that the cooler itself slides out of the housing.
Why do they replace them when this works? Is it hard to get to? Thank you
Thank you for this wonderful video.
I have a 2012 f250 KR 6.7L. 113K Miles.
Check engine light on... EGR Cooler, gasket kit,and NOx sensor replacement are recommended by the Ford dealer.
I am debating on doing this repair or performing a complete delete of EGR, DPF and down pipe.
Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
Delete!!
Delete and MILD tune. Harsh tuning will ruin ur pocket book in the long run
Delete delete delete!!!! your truck will thank you... also CCV reroute to help you truck breath clean air and not the oil vapor dirty air stock truck is breathing... mid tuning is required so lights will not turn on but it’s well worth the price tag and time to do this...
Intresting, i usually only see a clogged egr cooler due to a reason though, normally a very small split in the cooler causing a carbon/coolant mixture to clog it up
Yes you're a 100% correct esp on the 6.0. I'm seeing these from excessive idle time. Not sufficient warm ups and fuel quality
DieselTechRon Is it best to replace coolers instead of servicing them ?
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I have a couple of questions. 1) My 6.7 was produced in 2010 for the 2011 model year and I had a complete engine failure due to the improper heat treatment of the glow plug. Ford replaced the engine under warranty with a factory reconditioned 6.7. It now has the metal oil pan and drain plug. Is the EGR cooler included with the factory reconditioned long block? 2) The Reductant heater just failed and Ford replaced it under warranty and flashed the PCM. If the PCM is flashed; is it with the latest settings/parameters so hopefully the EGR cooler doesn't get clogged?
You may already be aware by now, but Ron passed away about 5 years ago in a car accident....
I am looking at buying a 6.7 f350 XL bare bones model ... These 6.7 diesels appear to be a maintenance nightmare next to the 7.3 I have with 372,000 miles on it. I tow trailers and use the truck for dump utility on my property.
Is the 6.7 a total pile of electronic / emissions shit, or is the 2016 a good truck. I only see the new diesels getting more complicated and less worthy of buying. in General, will maintenance costs eat up any savings I have from better economy via a diesel?
thank you.
maintenance is pretty straight forward.Only common this a 7.3 and a 6.7 share is diesel. oil change every 5k fuel filters every 10K. Emission equipment is here to stay sadly. if your going to buy anything 08 and newer you will most likely have to do some sort of an emissions repair.These 6.7 have been very good.
I have the same issue on my 2012. I was told that the egr cooler and valve actually need to be replaced. Do you know if there is a way for me to tell before having to actually take it to the dealer? I might just try to clean it this weekend.
if the code comes back its most likely restricted.
+DieselTechRon is there some things you recommend to try at home before taking it in?
+jon hagood yes. You can try the ford fuel additive over multiple tanks of fuel. And hopefully the videos I make inspire or give you confidence to do it yourself. Otherwise I failed.
+DieselTechRon I will give it a try. I ordered this and will run it through. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NUAFH0 I will keep you posted once I get it resolved.
Well it has been a year now and no issues. I ran continue to run the cetane booster and it works fine.
How many miles on this truck?
Only 47,000 miles. The quality of fuel and idle time effects it
How bad those the egr cooler go bad on the 6.7.
Never had one actually be bad. Probably 5-6 clogged ones since 2011.
Mi are all messed up
Where is the crankshaft positioning sensor on a F250 Super Duty 2012 6.7 L engine
Gary Eberth rh rear of engine
God forgive you
why wouldn't you just delete that crap and be done with it
delete the emissions bullshit and be done with all of these headaches!!