Excellent video, You get to the point and provide good hands on technical info. My truck is currently at the dealer, and this is being covered under warranty. Unfortunately the EGR tube bolts broke and they were unsuccessful at drilling them out, so now waiting for Ford to approve an exhaust manifold replacement. Right or wrong, I’m just looking for the job to be done right. For those out there with this problem, my codes were P0401 and P2478. I have a 2011 with 100,00 miles, so Ford is covering it under Customer Satisfaction Program 21M04. Up to 11 years or 120,000 miles. My driving is a combination of shorter work trips and some medium duty highway towing.
Incredibly clear and accurate. Thank You. Those are Titanium bolts approx 3/16" and $11 each. If you break one down in the centre of the engine you are in for a world of work and expense. There are special kits with drills and Threaded bushings that must be used. DON'T even try without HEAT. #3 tip by the looks of it. Heat below the pipe flange. For those whose FOMOCO Diesel won't run check MAP sensor on very top of Plenum near firewall. On tiny bolt and it pulls out. Then try engine. I have cleaned them out of soot and they seem to run fine. Brake cleaner and drywall screw pulls the crap out!
Great video! As a certified technician myself of 29 years (good grief) and a college instructor I encourage all experienced and budding technicians to use all information available to them before repairs. Mitchel, direct hit, youtube and google images is nothing to be ashamed about. Especially when dealing with time consuming repairs on your clients expensive investments. I watched your video this morning before installing a cooler on my 2012 King Ranch. I have done them and lots of 6.0's before, but always nice to watch someone and maybe learn a trick or two. If the manufacturer can install a complex DEF system that is over engineered why can't they just throw some more parts on it and have an EGR injection cleaner as well! lol. One thing I can add to this video is if your 6.7 is stuck in DEF errors, forced idle and having trouble getting regens to complete a plugged core may be your issue even iff it isn't setting a P0401. Monitoring egr temp and Nox PID's can help you narrow this down!
I am having Def issue p207f no other codes everything related to the Def system is working properly flow test passes and I measured Def with a refractometer spot on, looked in the injector hole with a boroscope looks good. I was suspecting the egr so what would i see in the pids u mentioned that would flag the egr?
I did monitor the nox pid and started shutting off 1 injector at a time injectors 1-4 when I shut them off the nox raises 100 ppm or more when I shut off 5-8 the nox does not increase at all. I am at the end of my rope with this issue.
2015 F250 6.7. Engine light came on. Got the EGR insufficient flow code. Local dealer wants it dropped off for diagnosis. Said it could take a couple days to give me a price. Called a highly recommended independent shop. They said it would cost 950 to 1300. If everything came off without issue then it would be on the low end. Drop it off when I could and he would get started on it. I used to work on my own gas vehicles (shade tree mechanic). I Watched the video and decided that it is beyond me. Paid too much for the truck to take a chance. I will drop it off next week. Thanks for the Video.
Removing the EGR cooler is no joke. Spent a small fortune buying specialized tools. In retro, would have been better to take it to a mech and see if the mech will remove for- clean it yourself, and have mech put it back together to save $/time. Good vid, brother.
Good advice on the EGR pipe with those bolts that break. On top of heating I usually give some nice sharp taps to free up bolts. Every little step you take to ensure a smooth removal is key
Perfect video. Thanks for the part number links in the description! I'm truck shopping and looking at these trucks. Egr don't look bad to do, but beware the oil pan gasket.
Great informative vid. I was thinking about doing the cooler (I have a P0401 code) since I would be cleaning the valve.....but after watching your vid I think I'll take it to a garage.
I’ve been skeptical about buying a 6.7 bc of how hard it might be to work on. You make look easy. Having the egr in that location is nice vs at the bottom of the 6.0-6.4.
Thank you so much lol I'm a chrysler tech and one of these rolled in needing a cooler. Only thing is I have no idea how you put those o rings in I had to get a salesman with skinny arms to reach all the way in to put them in
Thank you for watching! Its not easy, thats the reason I also showed how to do it off the truck. Doing it on the truck is not for everyone. Glad you got it done!
3:20 What I did to remove bolts and keep from breaking the bolts is to spray penetrant fluid on all the bolts a week before I did the job. I sprayed every day until I had to remove them.
Excellent video! I'm considering buying an F350 with this engine and this part seems to be the major bogeyman. That looks like something I could do myself.
Just a note for those just now seeing this: the insert from a 2017 and newer will fit, and they have Much Bigger passages, so they don't tend to get clogged up as much. So when you replace the insert, Use one for a 2017 truck; the cooler housings are identical, and so the inserts will work, same for gaskets etc. The EGR valves are specific to the year model truck however, so those you have to replace in kind if you can't clean them.
Nice video! You are taking a pretty big risk by not pressure testing the reassembled cooler before putting it back in the truck. The test adapter is worth buying if you work on these trucks, as it only takes a tiny internal leak into the motor after a hot shutdown.
Nicely done, just went into idle only mode and P0401 & P207F are the codes I have, looking forward to what my diesel tech finds with my 2012 F250 with only 34,000 miles and lot's of cold weather idle time, suspecting my EGM cooler has plugged over the year even with the short mileages.
He found, malfunctioning EGR control valve, and likely a congested cooler when it's pulled apart along with malfunctioning reductant pump.... work in progress to get it fixed.
Really liked your video and honest open explanation. Very easy to follow along. Should you replace the EGR valve assembly at the same time as the cooler? Also, should I ask the shop who would do this service for all the old parts replaced? Including the gaskets and demand replacing the “O” rings in the rear of the cooler? Thanks for everything!
Hi Brian, replacing the valve isn’t always necessary but if you can afford it at the time it’s great insurance. If you trust the shop you shouldn’t need to ask for the old parts back. That being said if you are uneasy about it do not hesitate to ask. I would bake sure they are replacing the rear o-rings.
Excellent job nice of you to share your talents with us, For future filming maybe consider some protective blankets on the front grill area and fenders, Safety gloves and glasses.
Ya man no one does that who does this for a living. You wear cloths that don't scratch things and unless the engine is running safety glasses just get in the way and are not needed for this procedure. Our shops our rules.
I've been researching egr delete before starting the job,and found the pipe bolts you heated the worst part of the job. One guy i seen commented in a tread said he ran the truck before to get it hot and they came right out. I don't have a torch like yours, so i'm wondering go with that ?. Have you ever broken any off with also using some heat on them ?. Very well explained video of either way to change it out
I haven’t tried running the truck first. I have never broken one using heat but I broke a couple before I started using the heat. I have also read about running the truck first. Im just not sure if you can get it hot enough.
10:39 with the truck on the ground, & chock the front tires with good rubber chocks and then get a forklift or jack and some 4x4's and go to the rear and lift the rear and if you put some absorbant pads around the front housing & you can get a lot more fluid out.
Why does that first metal tube need to be removed from the exhaust manifold? It doesn't appear to be in the way if you remove the cooler core with the housing on the truck. Those bolts look prone to snapping off. I like your method of changing the o rings with the long pick and needle nose. I'd go one step further and look inside with an inspection camera to be sure they seated. Great video.
I have never tried to remove the cooler without taking that tube off. I don’t think it will clear without compromising the expansion joint on the tube. The bolts break very easy. There is a company that makes a kit to drill them out but it’s over $400.
@Roger Prodactor so your saying the metal tube from exhaust manifold can remain bolted to exhaust manifold (leaving bolts in place as to not breaking during removal) side while permitting cooler housing to be removed?
Thank you for the video!! When replacing the tubes without removing the whole assembly, how do you clean out all of the carbon? Does the carbon affect the new o-rings? And lastly, how do I set the new tube without being able to use gravity... wood and hammer? Thank you for your time.
I personally recommend spending the extra time and pulling the whole housing. I think if you have the extra time it is worth spending the extra time and not risking issues. Doing it without pulling the housing is more of a time crunch type of repair but not ideal.
Looks like your using high quality 1/4 universal sockets but I would advise wrapping them in 3m electrical tape. Broken tool pieces can find places to go that are less than ideal if you know what I mean.
Ive had the po401 code off and on for a year since shortly after I bought my used 2012 f350 tgat had 220k. Now the code and light dont go away. Ive watched your video like 7 times in the past trying to build my confidence to attempt this job. I found the cooler kit for $194 and have the abilities I think... I did the front hubs along with the tie rods and drag link also serpentine belt and pulleys on this truck myself last august in my driveway, but this egr cooler job intimidates me more than those did. I dont want to get stranded and we have a travel trailer we go camping with nlw this year I dont want to disable it for too long. Really dont want to fork out $1,000 for the job making $12 an hour running a firewood processor. I think id regret not attempting this myself. Any prefight pump up motivation or any new revelations is doing this job that you think I could use? Thanks man.
well done ! , wondering if you drilled a small hole in the upstream exhaust tube then manually opening the exhaust valve . get the engine up to operating temp ,and slowly shot some sea foam or water in through the small hole you drilled in the tube. in theory the water or sea foam could actually flash off the carbon inside the cooler .maybe not completely but enough to allow more exhaust flow through the cooler and eliminate the code. you could easily plug up the drilled hole with a brass screw or a tac from a mig welder .food for thought . my 6.7 has 200k and the code comes and goes .
hmm ? i think the problem with my idea is the temp of the cooler ,it would have to be above the boiling point, the temp of the exhaust gas is above 212 deg but its cooled down by the coolant flowing around it . you would have to get the whole egr cooler above 212 deg ,if you pinched off the coolant lines a tad to reduce coolant flow you should be able to get that cooler temp higher then 212. if you could the water hitting a 300 deg exhaust passages would turn to steam and flash off carbon and clear up some passages . im gonna try this just for fun im sure it may work .i just need to open it up a bit to kill my engine light.
very informative video but i have some querries about the EGR bypass valve. i will be thankful if you can answer below 2 questions. Thanks 1.) Firstly, i would like to know the position and structure and shape of the EGR bypass valve how does it look like. 2.) Secondly, when the EGR bypass valve is closed, then the exhasut gas is bypassed directly in to the manifold. my question is when it is bypassed, then is it possible that some amount of the gas slips through the gaps around bypass valve or slips in the cooler? Or does the gas goes back?
This video helped out tremendously. I bought a Dorman cooler because the design looked better. Turns out the replacement rings at the base of the cooler housing was leaking. I had to pull the entire assembly out of the truck to figure this out. Any tips on reinstalling these oblong o rings? I used a pick to push them in and may have damaged the rings in the process. Hoping to get them at a ford dealer tomorrow!
Thank you for this video. My truck just threw this code and I’m thinking I’m gonna have to do this myself. Is this something that is pretty expensive to have done at a dealership or local shop? Again Amazing video and very informative
@@thegrimreaper819 I had mine at the dealer to have the computer reflashed and they called and said it needs the egr cooler. They priced the job at $1400. Needless to say, I said I’ll come and get it. Lol. If I keep it, I think I’ll just delete!
Unfortunately just the normal flow of hot dirty exhaust gasses causes a build up on the relatively “cold” inside of the cooler and valve passages. There isn’t a lot you can do to prevent it besides deleting the EGR which won’t pass emissions.
POOR FORD DESIGN of the cooler insert. They fixed itm in the 2017 models and newer, the ports and passages are MUCH BIGGER. Lucky for us, the newer insert does fit in the older housing as the housings are the same from 2011 to at least 2019. The EGR valves however are NOT the same, they need to be the specific ones for your year truck.
@@claytonwhitman2611 Thanks , my 2012 has 106 k on it. I just got a letter from Ford stating they will cover it up to 2023 or 125 k if the check engine light comes on for P 401. I wish I could get it done before the light comes on cause it’s just a matter of time it will get blocked up .
Do you believe it is possible to remove the back cap of the egr cooler housing without removing the housing ? Just in case I have trouble seating the o-rings from the front . Great video. Thank you
Thanks for the great video! Never did one of these before but today went very smoothly, thanks for the tip on those exhaust bolts especially! Quick question: our Ford parts dealer sent us a bottle of the additive for orange coolant, along with jugs of the yellow motor craft stuff. Is the yellow the correct stuff to use now and Can this be mixed with the orange additive? Thanks!
Well done bro. I have a egr delete. I have to put back the egr/cooler back in soon. Is there a way to fake install it or just have it installed with the egr disabled? Thanks Bro...
fritzduval you can shut off EGR with programming. The other option that makes life a little easier if you have to keep going back and fourth is the block off plates that just remove the tube from the exhaust manifold to the cooler.
@@InTheShop I have the a SCT programmer putting the PCM in off road mode. If i remove the block off plates and install the EGR exhaust tubes, will it work just fine or o will have issues. Iam also putting the DPF pipe back on, just going to have it gutted out. Iam trying to get into car hauling and dont want DOT to fine me 10,000 lol
Hey why do I keep seeing guys just lift the cab off the chassis to pull all that off? What are your thoughts? Seams would be a lot of work but makes access to it all.
Easy access but this job can be done in a couple hours with the cab on. Pulling the cab, repairing this, and reinstalling the cab would easily take a good weekend for the do-it yourself.
I honestly feel your best bet is to pull the whole cooler and do it on the bench. It’s not easy to change the o-rings with the housing still on the truck and not really worth it unless you absolutely don’t want to pull that housing.
I do not have a brazing torch. I do have a standard propane torch (the kind where you screw on the tip Handle to the propane canister). Will this work, too?
@@InTheShop I zapped the bolts with Liquid Wrench over two days. I used my impact wrench on the lowest setting, and they came out. I was nervous, but I just tapped the impact, and I got really lucky, to be honest. LOL. Great video. Thank you.
The price can vary a lot depending on the condition of the truck and what your mechanic charges for parts/labor. Most diesel shops charge around $100 per hour +- and figure 5-6 hours labor.
with the newer DEF and DPF emissions parts on these trucks, (2019 f250 6.7powerstroke) , i don’t know much about diesel, How would these trucks do as a daily driver/short trip truck, (no deletes) no towing or hauling, 6 miles to work and 6 miles back home during the work week? and 30 to 40 miles on the highway on the weekends. i just want a big truck with a diesel engine. P.S i don’t care about the mpg.
Short trips are hard on these trucks. They really need to be driven to have the emissions equipment function properly. If you do frequent short trips the DPFs get plugged up fast
Tried to hit your link to the egr cooler gasket kit. But nothing shows up. Is there anyway you could send me the part number. 2011 f-350. Thanks. Great video
Why do all the exhaust gases go through the EGR cooler, when you have DPFs struggling to generate enough heat? Why can't a small amount just enough for the EGR valve be directed to the EGR cooler, and the rest to the emissions system? Also, is there any way to solve the issue of DPFs not getting hot enough? Seems to me like that's the last really annoying issue left.
Thanks for this great video! Other than the code is there a test using a bidirectional scan tool, i.e Autoenginuity or Forscan, which indicates the EGR is clogged?
My 2013 6.7 has 158k on it and the P0401 code shows up. Doesn't make sense because our fleet trucks of that year ran to 465k with no P0401 codes. Would mine be related to hauling weight like a fifth wheel trailer which caused excess carbon build up?
These trucks are very inconsistent on when they act up. I have seen some that clog the cooler every 60k and some that never do. I would definitely attribute it to driving style, loads that are towed, and also the length of each trip. There are a lot of variables that contribute to when EGR functions. I'm not at all surprised to see you needing one at 158,000. I am honestly amazed the trucks with 400k and up haven't needed one yet.
@@InTheShop my fleet trucks ran for 12 hour shifts on the interstate and idled a lot on traffic incidents, used 40 cetane fuel from every fuel station. One even had gasoline put in it twice. When we had them I made sure they were maintained due to hearing that guys in other regions of us not doing oil changes for 40k miles and blowing 15,000 dollar engines, and ours were serviced every 7500 miles and we used rotella 15-40 heavy-duty diesel oil. Now I'm not saying we never had issues with them, just no EGR cooler problems and all in all the 6.7 is a tough engine as it is with no aftermarket upgrades. Thank you
Great Video, I'm coming into a 2014 6.7 with 11000 on it. It's been in a garage for 3 years driven sporadically, any suggestions once I take ownership other than changing every filter and pretty much all the fluids?
Aside from fluids and filters mechanically you should be ok. The only other thing I like to check really well on anything that sits around is the tires and load test the batteries.
I am in the process of doing this with my 2012 f250, problem I am having is the egr cooler is hitting the fan shroud. I am not sure how you were able to get it around the shroud.
I know it’s been a while since this video but as mechanics jobs come more then once I personally have never done this specific job. How long does it take you or what is labor time by book? Or what you think?
I don’t know book time but if you are working steady pace it should take 3-4 hours if you have no snags. If you are doing it in your driveway with a couple beers expect the better part of a day.
It’s very possible that the valve is stuck open from carbon deposits. If you have enough time to wait for the parts I would pull the valve off and inspect it. While it’s off you will also be able to look at the cooler and see if it looks plugged. Once the valve is off it will be very obvious the condition of the cooler.
@@InTheShop Thank you for the help and quick response. Is it possible to clean either the valve or cooler? Or is it just better to replace it? And what are your thoughts on a full delete of the EGR system?
I havnt had any luck trying to clean the valves and the coolers would be almost impossible to clean. The passages are very small. If you disassembled it and cleaned you would likely be back in there in the near future.
I have a 2015 Ford F-250 with 120,000 miles. I just had a code pop up with p0402 and p0170. I am a technician for Lexus and Toyota. Is the egr in front of the cooler that you replaced in the above video. Any thing would help thanks for your time.
Excellent video, getting ready to do mine. Do you have an updated link to the gasket kit? The one on your video doesn’t appear to exists anymore. Thanks!
What is the typical out the door cost for replacing all parts involved with labor. Just a ball park figure. I was just quoted $3500.00 from the ford dealer I can't believe it since the parts are under $350.00. Thanks
Great video. I just replaced the cooler. My 2012 F350 ran great for about 100 miles, then the turbo seemed to just lose boost. Shut it down and fired back up and the turbo came back to life. Now I have a check engine light that is pulling the codes P0401 (again) and P132B. I've heard that is a turbo leak of some kind? Do you have any advice on how to fix this? I'm wondering if I made a mistake somewhere reinstalling the cooler maybe? Thanks!
Thanks Tyler, a few things could be possible with your truck. I would start by checking the MAP sensor that is mounted on the top of the plenum to see if it’s plugged. I would also use a quality Mass air flow cleaner and clean the MAF. Another thing to check is to make sure the adaptive tables are reset after checking and cleaning the sensors.
@@InTheShopThanks! I will try those as soon as I can. I've been scared to drive it and cause further damage. Hopefully I can solve this myself. Thanks again for the great EGR video. I would have never figured out what to do without that. My cooler looked just like the one in your video.
Ok. The map sensor and port were completely clogged. I cleaned that and the maf sensor with electrical cleaner and maf cleaner. Reconnected the batteries and when I turned the key to charge the glow plugs I heard a kind of thump or bang come from the engine compartment. The truck started a bit rough but then idled as normal. No check engine light but the yellow wrench light came on. The turbo boost is reading 35psi at idle. I turned the truck off and back on, boost is still at 35psi. Wrench light went off and check engine is back on. Drove it a quarter of a mile slowly and the boost stayed at 35psi. Now I'm pulled over wondering if I should go the 15 min drive to have the code read? Thanks for taking the time to help me!
Did you spray the cleaner down into the map port? If so it may have been ignited by the glow plugs and popped back through the intake manifold. It’s possible that damaged your MAP sensor. It sounds like the sensor is shorted.
I did, when it was completely clogged. I let it sit for 20-30 mins and vacuumed out the deposits before i started it. That would explain the bang though. I am picking up a new MAP tomorrow. Thanks again! I really appreciate your help and great videos
Excellent video, You get to the point and provide good hands on technical info. My truck is currently at the dealer, and this is being covered under warranty. Unfortunately the EGR tube bolts broke and they were unsuccessful at drilling them out, so now waiting for Ford to approve an exhaust manifold replacement. Right or wrong, I’m just looking for the job to be done right. For those out there with this problem, my codes were P0401 and P2478. I have a 2011 with 100,00 miles, so Ford is covering it under Customer Satisfaction Program 21M04. Up to 11 years or 120,000 miles. My driving is a combination of shorter work trips and some medium duty highway towing.
Incredibly clear and accurate. Thank You. Those are Titanium bolts approx 3/16" and $11 each. If you break one down in the centre of the engine you are in for a world of work and expense. There are special kits with drills and Threaded bushings that must be used.
DON'T even try without HEAT. #3 tip by the looks of it. Heat below the pipe flange.
For those whose FOMOCO Diesel won't run check MAP sensor on very top of Plenum near firewall. On tiny bolt and it pulls out.
Then try engine. I have cleaned them out of soot and they seem to run fine. Brake cleaner and drywall screw pulls the crap out!
Great video! As a certified technician myself of 29 years (good grief) and a college instructor I encourage all experienced and budding technicians to use all information available to them before repairs. Mitchel, direct hit, youtube and google images is nothing to be ashamed about. Especially when dealing with time consuming repairs on your clients expensive investments. I watched your video this morning before installing a cooler on my 2012 King Ranch. I have done them and lots of 6.0's before, but always nice to watch someone and maybe learn a trick or two. If the manufacturer can install a complex DEF system that is over engineered why can't they just throw some more parts on it and have an EGR injection cleaner as well! lol. One thing I can add to this video is if your 6.7 is stuck in DEF errors, forced idle and having trouble getting regens to complete a plugged core may be your issue even iff it isn't setting a P0401. Monitoring egr temp and Nox PID's can help you narrow this down!
I am having Def issue p207f no other codes everything related to the Def system is working properly flow test passes and I measured Def with a refractometer spot on, looked in the injector hole with a boroscope looks good. I was suspecting the egr so what would i see in the pids u mentioned that would flag the egr?
I did monitor the nox pid and started shutting off 1 injector at a time injectors 1-4 when I shut them off the nox raises 100 ppm or more when I shut off 5-8 the nox does not increase at all. I am at the end of my rope with this issue.
Would this problem stop it from starting. I have a 2017 Ford F-350 super duty 6.7
@@michaelbrown5117 check your MAP sensor. I was having this issue and my MAP sensor was completely plugged with carbon.
First time working on a 6.7 four hours later I wish I came across this video a lil earlier. Great video by the way. Thanks.
Thank you for watching. I wish it would have helped you sooner.
2015 F250 6.7. Engine light came on. Got the EGR insufficient flow code. Local dealer wants it dropped off for diagnosis. Said it could take a couple days to give me a price. Called a highly recommended independent shop. They said it would cost 950 to 1300. If everything came off without issue then it would be on the low end. Drop it off when I could and he would get started on it. I used to work on my own gas vehicles (shade tree mechanic). I Watched the video and decided that it is beyond me. Paid too much for the truck to take a chance. I will drop it off next week. Thanks for the Video.
Thank you for watching!
Removing the EGR cooler is no joke. Spent a small fortune buying specialized tools. In retro, would have been better to take it to a mech and see if the mech will remove for- clean it yourself, and have mech put it back together to save $/time. Good vid, brother.
Thanks for watching!
Fantastic video! Lightning, camera placement, and instructions. Well done 👍🏼
Good advice on the EGR pipe with those bolts that break. On top of heating I usually give some nice sharp taps to free up bolts. Every little step you take to ensure a smooth removal is key
John Kuchera
I was like, nah they won’t break, oh boy was I wrong.
Excellent video and great knowledge on the 6.7 diesel!! I sure wish you were working at my local repair shop you are worth your weight in Gold!!!!
Perfect video. Thanks for the part number links in the description!
I'm truck shopping and looking at these trucks. Egr don't look bad to do, but beware the oil pan gasket.
Watched it again. I'm confident I can do this. Thanks again for sharing. If I mess it up I will flat bed it to you. LoL
Haha you got this!
Great informative vid. I was thinking about doing the cooler (I have a P0401 code) since I would be cleaning the valve.....but after watching your vid I think I'll take it to a garage.
Thanks for watching Kevin.
Informative video. I would suggest covering up the plenum openings as well
Egr junk
Derek P thank you! Not a bad idea to cover the plenum.
Wow. Kudos man. This is the first video I’ve seen where those lower bolts came-out nicely.
Thanks Colin. With the right amount of heat they usually come out. If not I have another video that covers hw to repair them if they break.
In The Shop - I already watched that one too! Lol.
Thanks for the tip on those bolts it worked perfectly with the torch! Came right out!!!
Awesome! Thanks for watching.
Impressive not breaking those bolt off. Nicely done
Heat and patience. Thank you!
@@InTheShop sir you made that look like butter! Wow skill is truly shown here! Thank you fir that fantastic torch tip!!!
I'm here to replace the EGR tube from the exhaust to the cooler. Got it, Thanks. Great info
I’ve been skeptical about buying a 6.7 bc of how hard it might be to work on. You make look easy. Having the egr in that location is nice vs at the bottom of the 6.0-6.4.
They aren’t terrible to work on like some others.
Thank you so much lol I'm a chrysler tech and one of these rolled in needing a cooler. Only thing is I have no idea how you put those o rings in I had to get a salesman with skinny arms to reach all the way in to put them in
Thank you for watching! Its not easy, thats the reason I also showed how to do it off the truck. Doing it on the truck is not for everyone. Glad you got it done!
3:20 What I did to remove bolts and keep from breaking the bolts is to spray penetrant fluid on all the bolts a week before I did the job. I sprayed every day until I had to remove them.
Dam good video, bud. Very informative. No fluff, very instructive!
Excellent video! I'm considering buying an F350 with this engine and this part seems to be the major bogeyman. That looks like something I could do myself.
Thank you! It can be done at home for sure.
Just a note for those just now seeing this: the insert from a 2017 and newer will fit, and they have Much Bigger passages, so they don't tend to get clogged up as much. So when you replace the insert, Use one for a 2017 truck; the cooler housings are identical, and so the inserts will work, same for gaskets etc. The EGR valves are specific to the year model truck however, so those you have to replace in kind if you can't clean them.
Thanks for that Info!
Nice video! You are taking a pretty big risk by not pressure testing the reassembled cooler before putting it back in the truck. The test adapter is worth buying if you work on these trucks, as it only takes a tiny internal leak into the motor after a hot shutdown.
Nicely done, just went into idle only mode and P0401 & P207F are the codes I have, looking forward to what my diesel tech finds with my 2012 F250 with only 34,000 miles and lot's of cold weather idle time, suspecting my EGM cooler has plugged over the year even with the short mileages.
He found, malfunctioning EGR control valve, and likely a congested cooler when it's pulled apart along with malfunctioning reductant pump.... work in progress to get it fixed.
Really liked your video and honest open explanation. Very easy to follow along.
Should you replace the EGR valve assembly at the same time as the cooler?
Also, should I ask the shop who would do this service for all the old parts replaced?
Including the gaskets and demand replacing the “O” rings in the rear of the cooler?
Thanks for everything!
Hi Brian, replacing the valve isn’t always necessary but if you can afford it at the time it’s great insurance. If you trust the shop you shouldn’t need to ask for the old parts back. That being said if you are uneasy about it do not hesitate to ask. I would bake sure they are replacing the rear o-rings.
Excellent job nice of you to share your talents with us, For future filming maybe consider some protective blankets on the front grill area and fenders, Safety gloves and glasses.
Thank you!
Ya man no one does that who does this for a living. You wear cloths that don't scratch things and unless the engine is running safety glasses just get in the way and are not needed for this procedure. Our shops our rules.
I can’t wear gloves.
I've been researching egr delete before starting the job,and found the pipe bolts you heated the worst part of the job. One guy i seen commented in a tread said he ran the truck before to get it hot and they came right out. I don't have a torch like yours, so i'm wondering go with that ?. Have you ever broken any off with also using some heat on them ?. Very well explained video of either way to change it out
I haven’t tried running the truck first. I have never broken one using heat but I broke a couple before I started using the heat. I have also read about running the truck first. Im just not sure if you can get it hot enough.
I'll go try find a mini plumbers torch. Many thanks
10:39 with the truck on the ground, & chock the front tires with good rubber chocks and then get a forklift or jack and some 4x4's and go to the rear and lift the rear and if you put some absorbant pads around the front housing & you can get a lot more fluid out.
At 5:57, that has to be the best fuckin sound a mechanic likes to hear
Absolutely!
Why does that first metal tube need to be removed from the exhaust manifold? It doesn't appear to be in the way if you remove the cooler core with the housing on the truck. Those bolts look prone to snapping off. I like your method of changing the o rings with the long pick and needle nose. I'd go one step further and look inside with an inspection camera to be sure they seated. Great video.
I have never tried to remove the cooler without taking that tube off. I don’t think it will clear without compromising the expansion joint on the tube. The bolts break very easy. There is a company that makes a kit to drill them out but it’s over $400.
@Roger Prodactor so your saying the metal tube from exhaust manifold can remain bolted to exhaust manifold (leaving bolts in place as to not breaking during removal) side while permitting cooler housing to be removed?
I appreciate all the work you put into this video. Happy holidays to ya.
Thank you!
One question. Why would you need to use the additive if your replacing the coolant?
Thanks man , great video and great confidence builder for a nubie like me
Him; I don't think you can mess it up.
Me; *fucks it up*
Thank you for the video!!
When replacing the tubes without removing the whole assembly, how do you clean out all of the carbon? Does the carbon affect the new o-rings? And lastly, how do I set the new tube without being able to use gravity... wood and hammer?
Thank you for your time.
I personally recommend spending the extra time and pulling the whole housing. I think if you have the extra time it is worth spending the extra time and not risking issues. Doing it without pulling the housing is more of a time crunch type of repair but not ideal.
Very good tutorial loved it
Awesome video, very knowledgeable. Thank You. If you lived close you would have a job to do.
Thanks Danny
Looks like your using high quality 1/4 universal sockets but I would advise wrapping them in 3m electrical tape. Broken tool pieces can find places to go that are less than ideal if you know what I mean.
Ive had the po401 code off and on for a year since shortly after I bought my used 2012 f350 tgat had 220k. Now the code and light dont go away. Ive watched your video like 7 times in the past trying to build my confidence to attempt this job. I found the cooler kit for $194 and have the abilities I think... I did the front hubs along with the tie rods and drag link also serpentine belt and pulleys on this truck myself last august in my driveway, but this egr cooler job intimidates me more than those did. I dont want to get stranded and we have a travel trailer we go camping with nlw this year I dont want to disable it for too long. Really dont want to fork out $1,000 for the job making $12 an hour running a firewood processor. I think id regret not attempting this myself. Any prefight pump up motivation or any new revelations is doing this job that you think I could use? Thanks man.
Just take your time. The most difficult part is the bolts from the EGR to the manifold.
well done ! , wondering if you drilled a small hole in the upstream exhaust tube then manually opening the exhaust valve . get the engine up to operating temp ,and slowly shot some sea foam or water in through the small hole you drilled in the tube. in theory the water or sea foam could actually flash off the carbon inside the cooler .maybe not completely but enough to allow more exhaust flow through the cooler and eliminate the code. you could easily plug up the drilled hole with a brass screw or a tac from a mig welder .food for thought . my 6.7 has 200k and the code comes and goes .
Some people have tried flushing the cooler like that but I'm not sure that they have had any success
hmm ? i think the problem with my idea is the temp of the cooler ,it would have to be above the boiling point, the temp of the exhaust gas is above 212 deg but its cooled down by the coolant flowing around it . you would have to get the whole egr cooler above 212 deg ,if you pinched off the coolant lines a tad to reduce coolant flow you should be able to get that cooler temp higher then 212. if you could the water hitting a 300 deg exhaust passages would turn to steam and flash off carbon and clear up some passages . im gonna try this just for fun im sure it may work .i just need to open it up a bit to kill my engine light.
very informative video but i have some querries about the EGR bypass valve. i will be thankful if you can answer below 2 questions. Thanks
1.) Firstly, i would like to know the position and structure and shape of the EGR bypass valve how does it look like.
2.) Secondly, when the EGR bypass valve is closed, then the exhasut gas is bypassed directly in to the manifold. my question is when it is bypassed, then is it possible that some amount of the gas slips through the gaps around bypass valve or slips in the cooler? Or does the gas goes back?
You saved my ass today. My exhaust is hot enough to cook bacon...
Thanks so much for the video, very...very informative and helpful! 👍🤝💯🤛
Glad you liked it!
This video helped out tremendously. I bought a Dorman cooler because the design looked better. Turns out the replacement rings at the base of the cooler housing was leaking. I had to pull the entire assembly out of the truck to figure this out. Any tips on reinstalling these oblong o rings? I used a pick to push them in and may have damaged the rings in the process. Hoping to get them at a ford dealer tomorrow!
Anyone else out there looove that feeling at 6:00?
The best
Thank you. I'm sure I can accomplish this now. 👍
Thanks a lot your advice video
Thank you for this video. My truck just threw this code and I’m thinking I’m gonna have to do this myself. Is this something that is pretty expensive to have done at a dealership or local shop? Again Amazing video and very informative
Thanks Djay. It can be costly to pay a shop to do it for sure.
@@InTheShop how much?
@@thegrimreaper819 @in the Shop I also would be interested to know about how much? I have this repair in the very near future.
@@thegrimreaper819 I had mine at the dealer to have the computer reflashed and they called and said it needs the egr cooler. They priced the job at $1400. Needless to say, I said I’ll come and get it. Lol. If I keep it, I think I’ll just delete!
Great video
What causes the EGR to get blocked up and how can you prevent it ? Nice video
Unfortunately just the normal flow of hot dirty exhaust gasses causes a build up on the relatively “cold” inside of the cooler and valve passages. There isn’t a lot you can do to prevent it besides deleting the EGR which won’t pass emissions.
POOR FORD DESIGN of the cooler insert. They fixed itm in the 2017 models and newer, the ports and passages are MUCH BIGGER. Lucky for us, the newer insert does fit in the older housing as the housings are the same from 2011 to at least 2019. The EGR valves however are NOT the same, they need to be the specific ones for your year truck.
@@claytonwhitman2611
Thanks , my 2012 has 106 k on it. I just got a letter from Ford stating they will cover it up to 2023 or 125 k if the check engine light comes on for P 401. I wish I could get it done before the light comes on cause it’s just a matter of time it will get blocked up .
This is a very informative video. Thanks for sharing!
Very smart guy this video help me alot
hello i like Your video you explain everything perfectly now can I just wash that cooler really good and reuse it or do I have to purchase a new one
I have never seen anyone have luck trying to clean the EGR cooler. Replacement is required.
@@InTheShop thank you
Best thing to do is unplug the egr valve. Stop the exhaust leak into the air intake!
Great Video, very informative, thank you!!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks Kevin
Do you believe it is possible to remove the back cap of the egr cooler housing without removing the housing ? Just in case I have trouble seating the o-rings from the front . Great video. Thank you
Thanks for the great video! Never did one of these before but today went very smoothly, thanks for the tip on those exhaust bolts especially! Quick question: our Ford parts dealer sent us a bottle of the additive for orange coolant, along with jugs of the yellow motor craft stuff. Is the yellow the correct stuff to use now and Can this be mixed with the orange additive? Thanks!
Well done bro. I have a egr delete. I have to put back the egr/cooler back in soon. Is there a way to fake install it or just have it installed with the egr disabled? Thanks Bro...
fritzduval you can shut off EGR with programming. The other option that makes life a little easier if you have to keep going back and fourth is the block off plates that just remove the tube from the exhaust manifold to the cooler.
@@InTheShop I have the a SCT programmer putting the PCM in off road mode. If i remove the block off plates and install the EGR exhaust tubes, will it work just fine or o will have issues. Iam also putting the DPF pipe back on, just going to have it gutted out. Iam trying to get into car hauling and dont want DOT to fine me 10,000 lol
@@fritzduval It should work just fine doing it that way. I always suggest talking to whoever wrote the tunes to be sure though.
@@InTheShop Thank you Bro
Top notch video
Thank you!
Hey why do I keep seeing guys just lift the cab off the chassis to pull all that off? What are your thoughts? Seams would be a lot of work but makes access to it all.
Easy access but this job can be done in a couple hours with the cab on. Pulling the cab, repairing this, and reinstalling the cab would easily take a good weekend for the do-it yourself.
If you have a problem with the EGR valve are you going to have a problem starting your truck or not to start 6.7 thank you
Possible to make a sub-video someday of the o-ring replacement phase?
I honestly feel your best bet is to pull the whole cooler and do it on the bench. It’s not easy to change the o-rings with the housing still on the truck and not really worth it unless you absolutely don’t want to pull that housing.
@@InTheShop Love ya man...Keep em coming!
Very good tutorial
I am getting at P245a code on my 2015 F350 and am trying to troubleshoot it. Where should I start?
I would start by inspecting the wiring connector and wiring harness around the EGR bypass valve.
Big help. Thank you.
I have a 2011 after driving truck coolant Start spilling from small coolant reservoir hose what do you think is the problem
Could be a cracked intercooler
I do not have a brazing torch. I do have a standard propane torch (the kind where you screw on the tip Handle to the propane canister). Will this work, too?
@@MrJohn013 those usually will not produce enough heat
@@InTheShop I zapped the bolts with Liquid Wrench over two days. I used my impact wrench on the lowest setting, and they came out. I was nervous, but I just tapped the impact, and I got really lucky, to be honest. LOL. Great video. Thank you.
Great video. What can a customer expect to pay for this egr cooler replacement project?
The price can vary a lot depending on the condition of the truck and what your mechanic charges for parts/labor. Most diesel shops charge around $100 per hour +- and figure 5-6 hours labor.
What year model is this truck?
Did the 2016 models have this problem
Thank your brother for your help thank you
No problem! Glad it helped
with the newer DEF and DPF emissions parts on these trucks, (2019 f250 6.7powerstroke) , i don’t know much about diesel, How would these trucks do as a daily driver/short trip truck, (no deletes) no towing or hauling, 6 miles to work and 6 miles back home during the work week? and 30 to 40 miles on the highway on the weekends. i just want a big truck with a diesel engine. P.S i don’t care about the mpg.
Short trips are hard on these trucks. They really need to be driven to have the emissions equipment function properly. If you do frequent short trips the DPFs get plugged up fast
Tried to hit your link to the egr cooler gasket kit. But nothing shows up. Is there anyway you could send me the part number. 2011 f-350. Thanks. Great video
Hey Bill, It looks like the listing no longer exists on Amazon but here is the part number from Ford BC3Z-9P455-B
Why do all the exhaust gases go through the EGR cooler, when you have DPFs struggling to generate enough heat? Why can't a small amount just enough for the EGR valve be directed to the EGR cooler, and the rest to the emissions system? Also, is there any way to solve the issue of DPFs not getting hot enough? Seems to me like that's the last really annoying issue left.
It is only a portion of it that’s directed through the cooler. The rest goes through the turbo then out the exhaust.
Thanks for this great video! Other than the code is there a test using a bidirectional scan tool, i.e Autoenginuity or Forscan, which indicates the EGR is clogged?
Thanks you
wow great video !!! keep them coming great JOB !!!
My 2013 6.7 has 158k on it and the P0401 code shows up. Doesn't make sense because our fleet trucks of that year ran to 465k with no P0401 codes. Would mine be related to hauling weight like a fifth wheel trailer which caused excess carbon build up?
These trucks are very inconsistent on when they act up. I have seen some that clog the cooler every 60k and some that never do. I would definitely attribute it to driving style, loads that are towed, and also the length of each trip. There are a lot of variables that contribute to when EGR functions. I'm not at all surprised to see you needing one at 158,000. I am honestly amazed the trucks with 400k and up haven't needed one yet.
@@InTheShop my fleet trucks ran for 12 hour shifts on the interstate and idled a lot on traffic incidents, used 40 cetane fuel from every fuel station. One even had gasoline put in it twice. When we had them I made sure they were maintained due to hearing that guys in other regions of us not doing oil changes for 40k miles and blowing 15,000 dollar engines, and ours were serviced every 7500 miles and we used rotella 15-40 heavy-duty diesel oil. Now I'm not saying we never had issues with them, just no EGR cooler problems and all in all the 6.7 is a tough engine as it is with no aftermarket upgrades. Thank you
Very good video... thx for your advice.
Greets from Germany ;-)
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video. I have code 0402 on my 6.7 Ford 2012. Can I get some advice as to which part to change out? Thanks.
For that particular failure I start by changing the air filter and cleaning the mass air flow sensor
Great Video, I'm coming into a 2014 6.7 with 11000 on it. It's been in a garage for 3 years driven sporadically, any suggestions once I take ownership other than changing every filter and pretty much all the fluids?
Aside from fluids and filters mechanically you should be ok. The only other thing I like to check really well on anything that sits around is the tires and load test the batteries.
@@InTheShop Great have new batteries already!
I am in the process of doing this with my 2012 f250, problem I am having is the egr cooler is hitting the fan shroud. I am not sure how you were able to get it around the shroud.
How you feel about just deleteing the system? 2011 with 297791.5 miles
I know it’s been a while since this video but as mechanics jobs come more then once I personally have never done this specific job. How long does it take you or what is labor time by book? Or what you think?
I don’t know book time but if you are working steady pace it should take 3-4 hours if you have no snags. If you are doing it in your driveway with a couple beers expect the better part of a day.
Nathan, you wouldn't to have a part # for those o-ring gaskets would you? Just the o-rings alone without the complete gasket set. Thanks
I'm not sure if they are sold individually.
@@InTheShop Okay thanks... I think I may have found the part #: HC3Z-8527-A - Gonna check with local Ford dealer to see if this is correct. :)
@@InTheShop They do sell individually and the Part # is correct - I matched them up with the old one. I'm now ready for another stab at it.
Great video. Thank you.
Thank you!
P2457 Code is what I have on my 6.7 powerstroke. Should I inspect the EGR cooler when I see this error?
Cool video, what ur opinion on buy a 2014 f250 6.7. Off a diesel mechanic.
Pretty solid trucks as long ad they were taken care of.
I am getting a P042E code, EGR valve stuck in the open position? Could this be due to a clogged cooler as well?
It’s very possible that the valve is stuck open from carbon deposits. If you have enough time to wait for the parts I would pull the valve off and inspect it. While it’s off you will also be able to look at the cooler and see if it looks plugged. Once the valve is off it will be very obvious the condition of the cooler.
@@InTheShop Thank you for the help and quick response. Is it possible to clean either the valve or cooler? Or is it just better to replace it? And what are your thoughts on a full delete of the EGR system?
I havnt had any luck trying to clean the valves and the coolers would be almost impossible to clean. The passages are very small. If you disassembled it and cleaned you would likely be back in there in the near future.
Well explain thank you
No problem. Thank you!
I have a 2015 Ford F-250 with 120,000 miles. I just had a code pop up with p0402 and p0170. I am a technician for Lexus and Toyota. Is the egr in front of the cooler that you replaced in the above video. Any thing would help thanks for your time.
Where you located ? Maybe I'll just bring my truck to you when it's time 2016 6.7
Excellent video, getting ready to do mine. Do you have an updated link to the gasket kit? The one on your video doesn’t appear to exists anymore. Thanks!
Hey Eduardo! Thanks for watching. I will update the link tomorrow morning.
This link should work amzn.to/3i5ojd8
Awesome video! Thanks!
Thank you sir
Thank you!
Have you had any experience using the later 2017- current cooler in the 2011-2016?
I have not
What is the typical out the door cost for replacing all parts involved with labor. Just a ball park figure. I was just quoted $3500.00 from the ford dealer I can't believe it since the parts are under $350.00. Thanks
Great video. I just replaced the cooler. My 2012 F350 ran great for about 100 miles, then the turbo seemed to just lose boost. Shut it down and fired back up and the turbo came back to life. Now I have a check engine light that is pulling the codes P0401 (again) and P132B. I've heard that is a turbo leak of some kind? Do you have any advice on how to fix this? I'm wondering if I made a mistake somewhere reinstalling the cooler maybe? Thanks!
Thanks Tyler, a few things could be possible with your truck. I would start by checking the MAP sensor that is mounted on the top of the plenum to see if it’s plugged. I would also use a quality Mass air flow cleaner and clean the MAF. Another thing to check is to make sure the adaptive tables are reset after checking and cleaning the sensors.
@@InTheShopThanks! I will try those as soon as I can. I've been scared to drive it and cause further damage. Hopefully I can solve this myself. Thanks again for the great EGR video. I would have never figured out what to do without that. My cooler looked just like the one in your video.
Ok. The map sensor and port were completely clogged. I cleaned that and the maf sensor with electrical cleaner and maf cleaner. Reconnected the batteries and when I turned the key to charge the glow plugs I heard a kind of thump or bang come from the engine compartment. The truck started a bit rough but then idled as normal. No check engine light but the yellow wrench light came on. The turbo boost is reading 35psi at idle. I turned the truck off and back on, boost is still at 35psi. Wrench light went off and check engine is back on. Drove it a quarter of a mile slowly and the boost stayed at 35psi. Now I'm pulled over wondering if I should go the 15 min drive to have the code read? Thanks for taking the time to help me!
Did you spray the cleaner down into the map port? If so it may have been ignited by the glow plugs and popped back through the intake manifold. It’s possible that damaged your MAP sensor. It sounds like the sensor is shorted.
I did, when it was completely clogged. I let it sit for 20-30 mins and vacuumed out the deposits before i started it. That would explain the bang though. I am picking up a new MAP tomorrow. Thanks again! I really appreciate your help and great videos
Will plugged egr cooler cause smoking n oil consumption