100 Series Land Cruiser/ LX470 CV axle replacement
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- čas přidán 8. 03. 2019
- OTRAMM is an independent Toyota, Lexus, and Subaru repair shop in Bealeton Virginia. Contact us today for your repair, maintenance, and modification needs. www.otramm.com
Today we're swapping out a CV axle shaft and drive flange on a 2000 Land Cruiser. This truck lost drive when the splines between the CV and the drive flange stripped. It had to have the center differential locked to move.
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Thank you so much for this video. It saves me $500 of labor.
Wish this video was out 2 years ago when I installed cv axles on my 99 LX...great video as always 👍🏾
Bro! This will be real useful for me here in the near future. Thanks for making the video- I'm not much of a mechanic, but with a guide, can get some stuff done. Thanks for being the guide.
Ryan, so much practical info here (As with all your videos)! Thanks for sharing your insight and methods. You save us so much time and frustration!
Thanks for this! Going to start on mine today once all the parts arrive. I just realized you were 38 miles from me though. had I known I would've likely just brought it to you, lol.
Brother...You're A Blessing. I'm doing this to my 98 next week, along with repacking bearings, new flanges, greasing driveshaft/ujoints.......help lordt
I didn't get in to the bearing packing in this one. The 80 Series knuckle video has bearing packing at the end and it's the same process. One of these days i'll get around to doing a video solely on wheel bearing replacement.
I just discovered I have a torn passenger side CV boot on my LX and low and behold this video pops up!
Many thanks for putting this video together, I am just about to set about the front lower balljoint replacement, this is a very clear version of procedure, saving grief, like not breaking steering rod balljoint. With you previous vid about swapping out AHC for old man eagle shocks, I managed to successfully remove my rear shocks, and will be replacing fronts along with this job. Top Man, thanks again
Those pesky lower ball joints had me too today ! Ended up cutting lower BJ off, as new one was ready to be fitted, seemed easiest way !
Ball joint separator wouldn't shift it, albeit a bit close to size limit of the tool, still, on we go . . .
Appreciate your video. I’m putting together my LX 470 and I had the splines lined up of my cv axle and differential, but it wasn’t going in. Then I watched your video and saw it needed a little force and then it popped right in. Thanks again.
So much rust. Watching from Kenya and forgot how rusty things can get up that way. Thanks for the great videos.
Great vid as always, your very informative, keep it up!
Well done. Thank you. Good presentation. Schmoo? 😂
Hoping I can do this in the Australian desert if necessary.
Awesome info! Thanks 🙏
Great video from some who cares about what they do too. Cheers.
Thank you I benefited you a lot
awesome video mate, really helpful to us part time/wannabe mechanics! haha cheers heaps
And now subscribed due to a competent video 👍😊
Yes fixing some elses desmadre yay. Precisely why you dont let just anyone work on your landcrusier lol. Always fun lol
Awesome video, thank you, just subscribed. Just waiting on new parts to arrive to do both sides on my 05', even though I had a fair idea on whats required, this video is perfect. P.S. That's one manky looking L/C underneath...do they salt your roads there? We don't here in New Zealand and with 300,000kms mine still looks like new compared to that! Haha.
We're just on the edge of where they salt. It gets worse the further North you go
I seem to be having similar problems as yours with removing the spindle on my 1998 Land Cruiser. I have removed the nuts from the upper and lower ball joints and jacked the thing up. That allowed the spindle to drop quite a bit, but I still need it to drop about another 1/4 inch to remove it from the lower ball joint. It is as if there is some sort of rubber gasket is in the upper hole and is preventing the bolt from the upper ball joint from moving at all. Any suggestions?
Thanks for the great video! It has been extremely helpful. I'm just trying to get all this stuff out of the way to remove the AC compressor!
Bob C
Your videos are the best 🤙🏼.. Can you do one for a steering rack replacement?
We don't do them very often. I'll film one if we get one in.
If I’m just replacing the axle to diff seal, can I just leave all the hub bits alone? Just take the caliper off, steering arm off, upper ball joint loose, pull the shaft and then access the seal? Let me know if I’m missing anything.
Love your videos, watched your TB/WP video when I did my last timing belt job. Production value 100%.
awesome, please do a vid on rebuilding a 40 series H41 transfer case.
We don't get the older t-cases in as often anymore but when one comes through I'll film it.
Thank You for the video, I am planning on rebooting mine soon and this helps. What CV axle did you use OEM ?
Yep, It's a Toyota axle. They seem to hold up better than the aftermarket ones.
Good video.. what is torque on those flange nuts?
Thx
Hey great video thanks very much. I had a torn outter CV that I recently filled with grease and mended up with high temp gasket maker for a temporary fix. Seems I was too late because I hear that awful clicking when the wheel is at full turn, so im going to have to replace the axel. My question about the video is do you need to replace the gear oil that spilled out? How do you do that and what kind of oil?
That oil came our of the front diff, so just fill the diff back up.
Thank you for making this video
Do you think the use of air and cordless impact wrench's are the reasons so many of the fastenings were stuffed?
Do you really need to abuse the CV assembly so much to get it off?
I'd like to say it's corrosion that made all the fasteners stuck, but I't probably the flat rate pay system making tech's go as fast as they can and not care. On the axle abuse, sometimes they pop out fairly easily. Other times they can be a nightmare to get popped free.
Hey Ryan awesome video! Do you have any recommendations for an aftermarket replacement CV axle for the Land Cruisers?
I don't. We generally use the factory ones. They seem to hold up the best.
Last week i just did work on a 100series. Customer had cvs that were leaking grease all over. But he thought the cvs were making noise. Turned out that his front wheel bearings were lose. Whom ever he took it to last time they redid the boots. So they failed to torque down the locking nutt assemblies correctly. Hopefully he comes back for the harrop elocker for the rear and a Dobinson bumper 😳
It's crazy how often we go in and the wheel bearings haven't been assembled correctly. The lock stars are missing or not bent quite often. Hopefully you get the extra work!!
@@OTRAMM thanks and yes hopefully. Out if curiosity i know every body tends to torque the wheel bearing assembly differently with different torque wrenches. I prefer the needle torque wrench i know its olds school but judt feels better to me. I do 43ftlbs 18ftlbs then 58ftlbs with turning the assembly Of course. Whats your preference?
@@Onward_Forward I learned to do them by feel and torque angle. It's not what's in the manual but it's always worked well for me. I think I show it in the 80 series knuckle video.
@@OTRAMMnice im always up for learning new techniques ill have to check it out sometime. You never know when you may have to use another way or technique.
when i bought my 100 i was hoping it would be just a larger version of my second gen 4runner. It is not, as seen here. With the Runner, you could simply undo the diff to CV flange bolts and turning the wheel a little bit toward center you could pull your CVs down the center. No ball joints or anything else. I am pretty disappointed with how small the and hard the front end is.
Do you have a link for that tripod flashlight you were using? Great vid btw.
Great video, I’ll be replacing mine soon since my boot is leaking and I’m hearing clicking noises when turning. Do the factory CV axels come pre greased or do you need to put grease in the boots? Thanks again
They come pregreased.
What kind of grease I can put inside cv boots? Also did you use any specific wheel bearing grease? Thanks for your great video.
I've never bothered to regrease the CVs. By the time we see them they're usually old enough to warrant replacement. Toyota likely has a special grease for them. I'm not sure what aftermarket grease would be correct. For the wheel bearings we just use disc brake rated wheel bearing grease.
Nothing better than working on a vehicle that someone else was messing around with and f'd it up.
Yeah, I was not a happy camper😁
Great Video! I have a clicking when I turn the steering wheel, but can’t hear it from outside of the vehicle near the axle themselves. Would that still be considered the CV axle needing to be replaced?
Thanks my man!
Without hearing it myself there's no way to tell. If the clicking changes with speed it's likely CV. If it changes by how fast you turn the wheel it's likely something in the column.
I want to thank you for the video on Timing Belt replacement for the LX 470.
While I was under the rig, I noticed my front right cv axle grease had come out the boot. What's should I do?
It's pretty normal for them to weep some at the clamps. If the boot is torn or it's leaking a ton I'd replace the assembly.
@@OTRAMM Boot is not torn. Thank you for the info. Have you done a rear bearing replacement for the 100 series?
I've done rear wheel bearings a few times. Haven't done a video though. That's one of the few jobs that's best left to a well equipped shop.
Definitely DIY *uckuo. Charge extra for silicone too.
I need to replace the front CV axle boots on 2007 Lexus LX470. Once I take out the axle, which end of the boots (outer or inner) do I remove 1st? Thanks in advance.
It shouldn't matter which end. It's been years since I've rebooted one. We usually replace them since the extra labor to clean and reboot comes close to the price of a new one.
I am busy with this jib, and just cant get the lower ball joint out. :( :(
Some of them can be a real challenge to get loose.
33:15 after the snap ring is installed should there be any play in the axle in the direction of the differential (plunging in and out)?
There will be a small amount of play where the axle snaps in. There will be a few inches worth of plunge in the inner axle joint.
where do you buy your parts? Interested in a front brake rotor, caliper and pads kit and new CV axles for my '06 LX 470
Most of our parts come from the local Toyota dealer.
how exactly did you get the lower ball joint loose? I've been trying to get mine off all day so I can press and replace the LBJ. did you just hit it harder from a different angle?
24 oz dead blow ball pien hammer.
Would this be the same process for replacing the lower ball joint? (Short of removing the CV axle)
Yep
12:45. so this thing is mostly in front drive? when does it go 4X4? only when diff lock is engaged?
It's full time 4 wheel drive. There's a differential in the transfer case.
Do you have to remove both the upper and lower ball joints as you did, or just the lower if it comes loose easily?
You may be able to snake it out doing just the lower but it's much easier to pop both and have the spindle out of the way.
@@OTRAMM Got it done this past weekend with your help, thanks. It definitely felt necessary to remove the upper.
What brand of digital torque wrenches? And who makes those long box end wrenches you’re using? Thanks!!
The digital torque wrenches are Snap On. The long box wrenches are Matco
OTRAMM thank you, Sir!
Having trouble getting my new CV to seat in the diff. Very tiny leak coming from the housing. Any tips on getting the axle to go farther in?
@@joemeador854 you can lightly tap the end of the axle with a mallet. It should click as it locks in to the snap ring groove. Did you change the seal. You may have nicked the seal causing a leak.
OTRAMM I did NOT do the seal. I’m going to break it back down within the next few days. Any tips on R and R on the seal?
i thought when inserting the cv that snap ring has tobe facing down or up? something to do with a gap in the snap ring
Nope, the splined coupler it goes in to has a chamfered lead the in to compress the ring. Orientation of the groove doesn't matter.
@@OTRAMM my new axles didn't come with the ring?
hard jobs
What is the OEM number for the part you are replacing?
I don't have it on hand. I just call my local dealer and order by VIN.
where can you get these parts? I need them OEM
We get them from our local Toyota dealer.
are you using some sort of lift? if so what is it?
Yes, it's a 2 post lift
Do you need an alignment after replacing the front CV axles?
Not usually since your removing tapered connections that self align. It wouldn't hurt to have jt checked though.
@@OTRAMM Awesome. Thanks.
What would cause that damage to happen while just driving down the highway?
The boots just wear out over time. They're getting flexed back and forth thousands of times a mile as you drive.
Did you have to loosen or adjust the wheel bearing at all? another video I watched he bent the tabs on the washers etc and had to tighten the wheel bearing back up
They must have been adjusting the wheel bearing while they were in there. There's no need to mess with it just changing the axle.
@@OTRAMM awesome! Thanks so much for the quick reply :) Do you think it’s necessary to remove the drive flange if you’re just pulling the hub off to do the CV?Or is the circlip the only thing holding it in?
@@mattwilkinson2012 no need to pull the flange, just the snap ring is holding it. It's worth checking the splines in the drive flange though. I've seen them wear out and strip.
I have clunk sound when I shift from R to D or D to R , do you know the reason?
Usually when we see that, it's either worn driveflanges up front or worn slip joints in the driveshafts
Newbie here. Where do I find the info about how much to torque each bolt? TIA
The factory service manual.
@@OTRAMM thank you!!
What Axles are you using?
Factory Toyota
Hey Ryan… any chance I could ask you a question about my 80 series? Would you respond and let me know how I could contact you? Many thanks…
otramm@otramm.com is the easiest way to get a hold of me. May take me a bit to respond though.
All I wanted to see was the part you skipped. Thanks
No problem