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XP'sGarage
Registrace 24. 12. 2011
1/2 VW Build - Part 22 - Magneto Drive Coupler Fabrication
1/2 VW Build - Part 22 - Magneto Drive Coupler Fabrication
zhlédnutí: 555
Video
1/2 VW Build - Part 21 - Rocker Install and Valve Adjustment
zhlédnutí 293Před 4 hodinami
1/2 VW Build - Part 21 - Rocker Install and Valve Adjustment
1/2 VW Build - Part 20 - Cylinder and Head Installation
zhlédnutí 595Před dnem
1/2 VW Build - Part 20 - Cylinder and Head Installation
1/2 VW Build - Part 19.5 - Valvetrain is Done!
zhlédnutí 522Před dnem
1/2 VW Build - Part 19.5 - Valvetrain is Done!
ECS Transmission Brace Driveway Install C5 Corvette
zhlédnutí 253Před 21 dnem
ECS Transmission Brace Driveway Install C5 Corvette
Building a Free Spirits Style Intake for the XR1200 Harley Davidson
zhlédnutí 357Před 21 dnem
K&N Engineering Round Air Filter - RU9630
1/2 VW Build - Part 19.4 - Head Welding is Done
zhlédnutí 307Před měsícem
1/2 VW Build - Part 19.4 - Head Welding is Done
1/2 VW Build - Part 19.3 - Welding on the Intake Pipes
zhlédnutí 313Před měsícem
1/2 VW Build - Part 19.3 - Welding on the Intake Pipes
1/2 VW Build - Part 19.2 - Some Cylinder Head Welding
zhlédnutí 207Před měsícem
1/2 VW Build - Part 19.2 - Some Cylinder Head Welding
Kawasaki X2 - My Jetski Gets Some New Paint
zhlédnutí 421Před měsícem
Kawasaki X2 - My Jetski Gets Some New Paint
Does the Rocker Locker Help With Harley Valve Train Noise? I tried it on my XR1200
zhlédnutí 276Před měsícem
Does the Rocker Locker Help With Harley Valve Train Noise? I tried it on my XR1200
1/2 VW Build - Part 19.1 - Cutting Out Cylinder Head Parts
zhlédnutí 586Před 2 měsíci
1/2 VW Build - Part 19.1 - Cutting Out Cylinder Head Parts
1/2 VW Build - Part 19 - Cutting & Boring the Cylinder Heads
zhlédnutí 676Před 2 měsíci
1/2 VW Build - Part 19 - Cutting & Boring the Cylinder Heads
A New Storz Front Fender for the Harley Davidson XR1200
zhlédnutí 107Před 2 měsíci
A New Storz Front Fender for the Harley Davidson XR1200
1/2 VW Build - Part 18 - Installing the Engine Covers
zhlédnutí 998Před 3 měsíci
1/2 VW Build - Part 18 - Installing the Engine Covers
1/2 VW Build - Part 17 - Final Case Assembly....Twice!
zhlédnutí 786Před 3 měsíci
1/2 VW Build - Part 17 - Final Case Assembly....Twice!
1/2 VW Build - Part 16 - Oil Plugs, Prop Hub & Connecting Rods
zhlédnutí 590Před 3 měsíci
1/2 VW Build - Part 16 - Oil Plugs, Prop Hub & Connecting Rods
Harley Davidson XR1200 Gets a 17" Front Wheel Conversion
zhlédnutí 1,2KPřed 3 měsíci
Harley Davidson XR1200 Gets a 17" Front Wheel Conversion
The Old Honda XR250 Gets New DG Exhaust
zhlédnutí 492Před 4 měsíci
The Old Honda XR250 Gets New DG Exhaust
Dirt Bike Seat Cover Install - It Puts Up a Fight!
zhlédnutí 46Před 4 měsíci
Dirt Bike Seat Cover Install - It Puts Up a Fight!
C5 Corvette LS6 Rebuild - Pt 21 - It's Done & it Runs!
zhlédnutí 262Před 4 měsíci
C5 Corvette LS6 Rebuild - Pt 21 - It's Done & it Runs!
C5 Corvette LS6 Rebuild - Pt 20 - Power Steering Pump Repair
zhlédnutí 240Před 4 měsíci
C5 Corvette LS6 Rebuild - Pt 20 - Power Steering Pump Repair
C5 Corvette LS6 Rebuild - Pt 19 - Rear Cradle & Some Engine Parts
zhlédnutí 157Před 4 měsíci
C5 Corvette LS6 Rebuild - Pt 19 - Rear Cradle & Some Engine Parts
C5 Corvette LS6 Rebuild - Pt 18 - Clutch & Driveline
zhlédnutí 249Před 4 měsíci
C5 Corvette LS6 Rebuild - Pt 18 - Clutch & Driveline
C5 Corvette LS6 Rebuild - Pt 17 - Engine Install
zhlédnutí 214Před 4 měsíci
C5 Corvette LS6 Rebuild - Pt 17 - Engine Install
C5 Corvette LS6 Rebuild - Pt16 - Balancer Pulley, Valve Rockers & Sensors
zhlédnutí 163Před 4 měsíci
C5 Corvette LS6 Rebuild - Pt16 - Balancer Pulley, Valve Rockers & Sensors
C5 Corvette LS6 Rebuild - Pt15 - Head Install with ARP Studs
zhlédnutí 321Před 4 měsíci
C5 Corvette LS6 Rebuild - Pt15 - Head Install with ARP Studs
C5 Corvette LS6 Rebuild - Pt 14 -Headbolt Thread Repair
zhlédnutí 223Před 4 měsíci
C5 Corvette LS6 Rebuild - Pt 14 -Headbolt Thread Repair
C5 Corvette LS6 Rebuild - Things Go Sideways!!!
zhlédnutí 431Před 5 měsíci
C5 Corvette LS6 Rebuild - Things Go Sideways!!!
C5 Corvette LS6 Rebuild - Pt 13.1 - Head Cleaning and Prep Work
zhlédnutí 204Před 5 měsíci
C5 Corvette LS6 Rebuild - Pt 13.1 - Head Cleaning and Prep Work
Is it still for sale?
Yeah, I've still got it.
Grouse.
Love your bike I have one question. How is the headlight at nite? May be taking one cross country and am just curious based on your experience. Stay safe thanks.
I've got the aftermarket daymaker style LED light in it and it's really good. At least as good as the dual halogen headlights that the Buells had.
Any problems with it so far? Maintaining good flow and pressure?
No problems at all. I've got about 30 hours on the tractor since the install.
Thanks Waiting for the next Probably i will buy the plan and 1/2 Vw to save money . What do you think?
Depends on how much your time is worth. If I didn't enjoy building stuff I would probably just have bought one from Cassler and put in some overtime at work to pay for it.
Great explanation. Thanks!
How does the oil get into the pickup tube ? . wont the spacer block the end of the Tube ..
The end of the pickup tube extends through the spacer and then through the top of the filter screen. The spacer is wedged above the screen and keeps the end of the tube from ever bottoming out in the screen housing. That leaves a gap between the end of the tube and the bottom of the screen assembly for filtered oil to flow into the tube.
@@xpsgarage Ok. I see the ridge that stops the spacer going to the bottom now .. thanks ..
OK, I am conflicted on hunting down and getting a XR1200. As I view your vids, I have feelinging of envy, jealousy along with admiration and inspiration and some other feeling that I have yet to identify. I think its more than safe to say that you have put more into the machine then it took to aquire. I have dreamed for half of my life to get an XR750 and make it streetable. Being that this is both unobtainium and could be seen as a bastardisation of, or concidered as a neutering of significant historical icon, I have abandoned this. That being overly said, I truly appreciate a hobbie of this nature, after owning Norton and Triumps. I have this sick nature of waiting for something to fail so I can repair as needed. I have gotten pretty good at this to the point that my work has produced dependability. The joy and satisfaction of working on these things has been a big part of my life. But I must say, it frightens me a bit to realize that if I find one at a reasonable price, I will pull the trigger and drag it home and find myself having to open a youtube channel to help sussidize this addiction, so to speak. I can say this though, Thanks to you, I have a good guide.
Ive had good success doing the old "bread press." Just stuffing bread behind the pilot bearing, and tapping a bolt/rod thats just smaller than the inside of the bearing to compact the bread and push the bearing out. Gets a little messy but it works great
What is the adjustable twist handle just behind the control system?
Is this a major issue? Do I need to fix it ASAP or can I leave it and clear the code for now?
Just fix it when you can.
I'm a new owner of a 2003 Sportster. I notice until it gets to plane at higher speeds the boat is very anemic is that the cavitation?
If it's cavitating then the engine will rev high but you won't go anywhere fast. If it's just slow to get going you have other problems.
Hola amigo , tengo un 8N 1948 y no tengo la barra de 3 puntas , necesito detalle de las medidas para poder comprar uno , Largo y medida del ojo por donde pasa el perno, saludos
Awesome mod! I'm thinking of doing the same on my XR... I have one question though: If it rains heavy, doesn't it mess up the filter or runs poorly?
It shouldn't damage the filter but you might need to re-oil it. If you are riding in heavy rain it shouldn't be much different than having a K&N in the airbox where the water might affect performance. If the bike is just sitting out in a heavy rain then that could be a problem. There is a company that makes water resistant outerwears for the cone filters and they work great. I've used them on cars with low mounted K&N cone filters without issue. I plan to get one for the XR too just in case.
outerwears.com is the company I used before. The 20-1956 cover they have should fit the K&N I'm using.
Nice to know how that draft control works! Note: As the Plow dug in it would put pressure on the top leg of the 3-point hitch, compress the spring, and internally take power from the rear wheels. This was a major safety feature! The old John Deere A's had problems when hitting a rock or stump. It's quite easy to flip the tractor. John Deere came out with a hitching system that connected the plow to the underside of the tractor near the oil pan. If you hit a stump, it would pull down on the tractor. Thanks!
I've really enjoyed your videos. I first found your videos while researching fan replacement on my Ulysses. Then again looking at how to rotate the engine. Lastly I too entertained the idea of "XR1200 as updated replacement for my Buell with better parts availability", and found this video! Being at the Lake of the Ozarks helps as well, as I recognize some of the places you're riding! I currently have several Ulysses as well as Lightning Long project bike and Firebolt parts bike. I love the look of the white-over-blue Firebolt, but as you mention the riding ergos just aren't for me. Maybe 20 years ago, but at this time the Uly riding position fits my needs! Heck, even my VFR is beginning to feel like a Supersport. One of my Ulys is currently sitting with the engine removed as I needed to fix a broken stud, boogered rear plug threads, and replacing the intake gaskets while I'm there. So your lamentations regarding Buell maintenance are fresh in my mind! I must concede, rotating the engine wasn't the huge ordeal I expected. And fully removing it was only slightly more work. While not something I'd want to do on a monthly basis I don't think the engine rotation is too bad. I mention that because parts and maintenance are my biggest Buell gripes. Used parts are still plentiful (though can be pricey) on eBay. I'm learning the maintenance isn't necessarily "worse" than my Japanese-Bikes background...it's just different. It seems once they're sorted out the maintenance isn't too bad. I come from about 20 years of mostly Japanese bikes background. The occasional Italian, German or Austrian bike thrown in for good measure, but mostly Japanese. Like you, I never learned to appreciate the I4 engine. I've always been partial to the V4 engines (I've owned a dozen or more VFRs), Vtwins and singles. I've never tried a triple but I hear the Triumph 1050 is an engine I should try (and I like the looks of the Tiger 1050!). I agree that something about the air-cooled Harley lump is enchanting. It's different and it requires a different riding style. I've had to learn to surf the wave of torque vs revving for the HP. But I like it. I feel it very much suits the smooth, flowing riding style I try to have. The engine of the Buell provides a very relaxing riding experience while the frame and suspension can support as much aggression as you wish. It's a very interesting combination that I enjoy. I've been in contact with several people who have owned both XRs and Buells (XBs in particular). They've generally stated the same thing; the XR is a great day-trip bike, and almost as good as the Buell performance / capability wise. The Buell makes more power, weighs less, has a better suspension and more comfortable seat. It's my understanding that the parts situation isn't much better than the Buell, as the XR is roughly the same age with even fewer examples in the wild. I've even had one owner state the late Tuber Buells and the XR are roughly equivalent. I may have witnessed the XR you described at the Osage Beach Harley dealer last week (I was getting studs and gaskets for the Ulysses). Silver XR, Ohlins shocks, and a bunch of goodies added to it. Not as attractive as the Orange / Black XR, but still a great looking bike! I've heard people talk about a weird "knock-kneed" riding position require by the XR...knees close together due to the narrow tank, but fee splayed apart due to the engine / peg location. I could understand that description once I was looking at the XR in person. All in all I think I've decided to keep my Buells. I think they're a better fit for my desires, and probably not that much difference in parts availability. I'm with you though, the XR remains "the Harley I would ride".
That's cool that you are at Lake of the Ozarks. Do you ever go down to the hot summer nights cruise in? Parts availability Is probably about the same between the XR and XB. I've ran into several parts that were no longer available. I've also found stuff on the XR that were left over Buell parts. The clutch basket being one of them. I would definitely ride a Buell again but I couldn't do the SCG anymore. I rode my daughters last week and wondered how I fit on one. I've gotten used to the roominess of the XR. Someone recently had a Uly for sale at LOZ that had a knocking noise. It was cheap and I really considered getting it.
@@xpsgarage I've not been to HSN, but I probably should. The father of one of my co-workers was responsible for getting HSN up and running. I thought parts availability might be similar given the lack of sales of the XR1200, it's uniqueness in the Harley product range, and it's sales timeframe. If that's all accurate, I think I'd prefer to keep my Ulys. I think the XR1200 is a good looking bike, but the Uly REALLY speaks to me. The red Uly you mentioned is one of my Ulys (I have an orange '06, the red '07, orange '09 (the one apart right now), and a red '09 XT). I've pulled it off the marketplace. Silly enough, I don't like the blackout treatment on the XT and I want to swap the silver wheels/pegs from the red '07 onto the XT. It's still for sale but I'm thinking of just swapping the motor with a low mileage 2006 unit from a theft-recovery Lightning Long I have, tossing a full set of luggage on it and listing it again for a more market-value price. I haven't really decided, and "sell now discounted or sell later at market price" is pretty balanced in my head. I should probably re-list it just in case.
@@motoguy1I wondered if that was your Uly on marketplace. I was just looking at the pics again.
Hey i have a 1990 kawi 550 sx with 650 swap and a makuni carb and dry pipe mod that someone else did. Bought this on Facebook marketplace. I have had problems with the exhaust couple melting where the head pipe goes into the expansion section. I ran duel cooling on it in hope to solve this problem. But even though it doubled my ride time the coupler eventually still melted after about 15 mins. I will note that the person that did the dry pipe mod sealed that hole off completely. Is that always supposed to have some kind of water flowing through it? I have the exhaust pulled now should i drill a small port through the jb weld? With my ski head pipe set up it was able to use the stock bung that was provided to drill and tap. I get sizzle on the expansion chamber and also a little on the crank case. Is this normal? Any thoughts?
You definitely need to drill a small hole through the JB weld and let some water into the pipe. I'd say that's exactly why you are burning the coupler. A small amount of sizzle on the expansion chamber is normal but not the crankcase in my experience. Getting some water inside the head pipe will probably fix it though.
Did you ever check deck height? What compression ratio did you decide on?
Yes I did check it unfortunately I appear to have deleted the video. Deck height was .100" and after cleaning up the heads they measured 53cc. That should give a 7.8 to 1 compression ratio which should work great.
Excellent Jason, I'm using your advice on the battery box and air filter. . . I'm actually converting my distributor to a magnetic pickup instead of points . . . great advice ty . . . God Bless from Savannah, NY =)
Are you using a Pertronix pickup unit? I had good luck with them years ago on a VW but some of the tractor guys seem to have trouble. Let me know how it works out.
Working on a 1948 8N, ty brother
why would anyone want half a vw ?
1. Looks better on an Ultracruiser than the V twin. 2. Sounds better. 3. Direct drive. 4. I enjoy building things.
If you go on line look up ferguson jack i'm sure you could make a copy it lifts the whole back end. I used to change tractor tyres without taking the wheels off it's faster and much easier.
That is a cool way of lifting the tractor.
You used the 2 haves from 1 head. You should have used 1 half from 2 heads so the rocker pedestals would be offset the same.
The rocker pedestal has to be offset differently to fit on the case and it will be that way whether you cut one head or 2. I just wondered about the plan pictures and why they didn't cut the shafts differently.
I really learn from you and it gives me the confidence to try this stuff myself. Especially since you always include the "why".
I learned to drive in a '31 Model A Ford Pickup. Double clutching up or down was just how it was done. My Mom would grind first to second and my Dad would cringe. Dad taught me to never grind with a well timed double clutch up or down
My Dad had a '29 Chevy that I worked on a bunch when I was younger. Double clutching was the way to go.
I like your scoop! Do they make slightly larger ones that fit an 8N? Where did you get yours?
It has been very handy. All of the ones I've seen have been about this size. I found it on Facebook Marketplace. It was a guy about 50 miles from me that sold old farm implements and portable buildings.
I'm back with more questions! The "Jig" you mentioned. I was not able to understand the name you said. What is the name of the Jig supplier? Do you happen to know if there is a Jig for the Jubilee (even though it does not have that long arm you straightened)? Thanks so much. I do have the manual now thanks to you!
Here is a link to the jig. I've never seen anything like it for the Jubilee. www.just8ns.com/LG500-Years1939-52-Lift-Jig_p_2850.html
@XP'sGarage what needle/tip size were you using to spray plastidip out of the traditional paint gun?
I was using the 2.0
The small Fords that I drove as well as most other older small tractors could shift up to road gear on the fly just fine. If you're pulling a load like a full wagon, you would probably roll to a stop before you ever got all your double clutching upshift done anyways. Probably the trickiest were the John Deere hand clutchers, but those JD guys seemed to get by fine.
This tractor never would shift on the fly without grinding unless I double clutched it. You are right that if I was pulling a load I probably wouldn't have time to double clutch, but I never drive that fast with a load so it doesn't matter.
My granpa was the 2nd owner of a 2N ford, my uncle,s stepson has it now, me & my dad run massey ferguson & sum international (now case ih nh) , but a lil education on it, harry ferguson invented the 3point/draft control, & him & henry ford had a handshake agreement, they put the "ferguson system" on ford tractor,s, then later the son edsel took over, honored it, then he died, then henry took bAck over, then he died, then the grandson henry 2 took over & tried to put the screws to harry ferguson, but harry prevailed sumwut & he emerged with the "ferguson" company, but allowed ford to share his patent & continue with draft & lift , but harry continued as inventor & patent holder & his company, then later harry sold out to massey & harris, & the mAssey,s turned around & hired harry ferguson to run the company til he died, as harry didnt have any heir,s apperent, then later, massey & harris changed name to massey ferguson, then later massey bought the ag (oliver) part from gm , white, then the old allis family (not chalmers family, they stayed out after sale) & ex corporate executives from duetz, & massey ferguson, all 3 bought duetz & the old allis chalmers, so,s now, massey is part owner of duetz & allis & owner of white (oliver) & they still own themselves, agco is the group they formed, but harry ferguson did invent 3 point/draft, it was just originally installed & used on ford,s, that was not a ford exclusive, now you know the real story of the draft, & i know 1st hand the draft can get rarely out of wack & to calibrate it properly isnt easy, especially on the later bigv tractors like the 1100/1130 & 1105/1135 massey tractors, on those , you better hope it never gives trouble.
I really enjoy your vids ! Great help for my 1951 8N 🙂
I'm glad they are helpful!
Great explain.
So I watched the VATS video Thanks very helpful. I have a 99 FRC and need to go down the same path. Have you disabled the active handling? If so can you explain how as the parts to keep these systems alive have become discontinued.
I deleted the active handling and the ABS since they are actuated by the same pump. I removed the ABS pump completely and ran new brake lines straight to the wheel. I also added a manual proportioning valve in the rear brake line to make sure the rear didn't lock up first. That left the ABS and BRAKE lights in the dash on so I removed the bulbs from the instrument cluster. Pulled all the fuses that had to do with ABS and eventually pulled all the wiring. The only message I get after removing all this is "service vehicle soon" when I first start it and pushing the reset button makes that go away until the next start.
@@xpsgarage Did you remove the ebcm from the CAN buss or is the light on on the dash?
@@TomPeters-d4x I disconnected everything that hooked to the EBCM including the data line. I did have the lights on the dash but I just removed the bulbs. I didn't get any messages on the DIC about servicing the ABS or traction control.
Thanks for the help
Can u do a Overview on how u deleted the ABS System in your Corvette, I Have a 2001 Vette with ABS issues, repaired EBCM checked all grounds and wires and still no luck fixing the issue getting the c1242 Code Everytime i turn the Key On its very frustrating to say the least, Really headed the delete route now with Brake Bias adjusters on the rear more than likely !!!! Thanks
I deleted the active handling and the ABS since they are actuated by the same pump. I removed the ABS pump completely and ran new brake lines straight to the wheel. I also added a manual proportioning valve in the rear brake line to make sure the rear didn't lock up first. That left the ABS and BRAKE lights in the dash on so I removed the bulbs from the instrument cluster. Pulled all the fuses that had to do with ABS and eventually pulled all the wiring. The only message I get after removing all this is "service vehicle soon" when I first start it and pushing the reset button makes that go away until the next start.
I have a 1999 Seadoo sportster I bought it used 3 years ago it ran fine for 2yrs . Now it runs slow at full acceleration what should I start with to fix the problem also what should I do to completely maintain everything
Do the engines sound like they are coming up to full speed but the boat is just slow? If so start by checking the pumps for damage to the impellers or wear rings.
Best video I have seen on wiring a one wire alternator.
I grew up on small Fords among others. We had one 8N that had a stubby draw bar for pulling that was separate from the 3pt. The rest used a 3pt cross bar with a longer draw bar clevised on the cross bar. That package included 2 brace links that hung from the top link mount down to each end of the crossbar. I was told that the little lever shut off the 3pt so it wouldn't bend up the brace links. And that was the way we used it. And of course, the PTO also had to be engaged to use the 3pt.
How come you are tightening the studs to undu them?
LOL. Hadn't noticed that before but I was using the rear camera on the phone so stuff looks backwards.
Thank you so much. This was my problem
You are very welcome. I was hoping it would help some people out.
That ain’t bad at all
It's very handy.
nice Job...very well done!, best of both worlds, performs well and looks good. Thanks for posting the video
How about for your next mod…….how to test fuel pressure and clean the injectors 👍🚀
Is your bike not running or are you just curious?
@@xpsgarage XR now 13 years old and would rather test than guess how to do it , runs ok for its age…..a bit like myself. 👍🛸
mayflower tire machine?
Bought it off Ebay several years ago. There were several different tire machines with different names that all looked exactly the same.
@@xpsgarage I just bought the brand called Mayflower off from Amazon. I still have it in the box until I move into my new place. If yours is Mayflower how is it working for you?
@@narcissistinjurygiver2932 The ones from Amazon look just like mine. I bought the tire machine and balancer combo and they have been working flawlessly for years.
@@xpsgarage cool. I cant wait to try mine. thanks
Looks good brotha!
Excellent video!!
Thanks!
does the pto shaft have to be on
The hydraulics have to be engaged and the PTO runs whenever the hydraulics are on, so yes.
@@xpsgarage Another way is to say: the 3pt pump is on the PTO shaft, so yes
Is it the same actuator for both sides? As in same part number, just order 2 of the same part?
Yes, the left and right blend door actuators are the same part number.
Inherited my grandpa’s 1951 Ford 8N about a year ago - the tractor I learned to drive almost 50 years ago. I really enjoy your videos. Thank you sir !
I bet you've got some good memories of your grandpa and the tractor.
Great video man
Good Job I learned a lot. Thank You🍻😎👍