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I subscribed just both 1953 jubilee. Leaking rear seal and need to replace brakes. Have u done vdo on this.

If you ever have the time, I would really like to see a Jubilee "How To" post hole digger with tips. What size auger are you using? I want to purchase a post hole digger for mine, but wanted to learn as much as I could before doing so.

Great to see you again! What symptom were you experiencing to make you think you need a valve adjustment? Thanks!

I need a project like this. Something that's 70-80 years old, needs everything drained, flushed, new wires, clean the carb, new lines. My 30 year old walk behind tiller is getting to be a pain in the @$$. Time to hitch up the trailer and go to the farm show.

A recording of baby chicks peeping is the ringtone on my smart phone :)

It was only a couple of models that Massey sold that they purchased from Moline and rebadged

I have seen that where some vehicles have the valve adjustment the same on both intake and exhaust, however on many engines the exhaust valve gap is greater because the exhaust heats up and extends the exhaust valve length, Of course this is particularly true,, valve setting when the engine is actually room temperature cold.

Holy cow! That tractor had a tiger in the tank.

jactor, it is nice to see a young man do a good job on this adjustment. tell me which tractor do you prefer, this ford, or the john deere as seen in the back gound. if that jd is a 40 or 420 it should have standard 3pt hitch, if it is an m, not so much. best wishes

Hello

Kinda strange that they were so tight because usually over time they wear a little so if they were gapped correctly the first time you’d think they would have been slightly looser and I could tell when you got your wrench on them they were tight so it’s not like the jam nuts were loose but I was told by someone and I can’t remember who but he said that he would rather hear the rockers tick a little and have the valve open all the way then have them to tight so that the valves don’t open all the way 😀🇨🇦

Heck with the "negative waves". Good video. I enjoyed it!

Acorn nut had to be loosened first!

IMPORTANT - IMPORTANT - IMPORTANT I have operated countless hours and had many experiences with the Ford 8N using several implements. The bush-hog is obviously the most dangerous. While with general improvements and maintenance, that bush-hog you bought will give you great service. My issues fall in two categories: #1. Tractor/Bush-Hog combination. The Ford 8N has a "non-live PTO". What does that mean ? It means when you connect the bush-hog, recognize that it spins a very heavy mass at high speed thereby generating enormous energy that can't be stopped like a flail mower. When you are mowing and push in the clutch, the energy remains in effect and is directly connected to the engines crankshaft. That means regardless if you apply the clutch, the power-train will continue until the energy is dissipated. Simply stated ... if you're mowing and come to a fence or building, the energy stored in the blades will push the tractor (and you) through the fence or building. REMEDY: Go to Tractor Supply and buy (not expensive) a "PTO over-running clutch adapter". This allows the bush-hog blades to continue spinning with no effect on the power-train. It can save your life. And yes ... when you let out the clutch the power-train and blades will become recoupled and continue mowing. #2. Blade Sharpening: Find a mentor that you trust to advise you. For me ... I would remove the blades and note the gash deviations for depth while holding the blades together. Draw a line from the blade tip back to the bevel to include the gash depth on both blades (treating them as one blade). Grind the edged portion flat (the same amount and same angle on both blades) to a point where the gashes are gone. When the blades match in shape, apply a grind to provide an edge, making sure to have the beveled edge the same on both blades. What you're doing here is creating a matched mass on both sides. Because the center hub is normally concentric, having the blades match in mass will give you the best chance of a balanced turning mass. Safe operating my friend.

Good job on the tilling. I love your old Ford Jubilee. I have a few old Ford tractors myself, including a '53 Jubilee.

Why not soak the leather piston ring in hydraulic fluid instead of water considering that is what it seals? Does it say to use water an not hydrofluid?

More questions from me I hope you will answer. I have the same tractor now. My PTO shaft had a troubled life. Its toast! I have a complete new shaft assembly with the larger size splines to make it more current. My PTO Lever is very, very stiff to operate. I can engage my PTO and it works (put the splines are toast so I can not use it as is), but disengagement takes a very hard pull and my lever just reaches 12:00 O'Clock position and does not cant towards the front of the tractor like it shows in the manual. My question: Can I remove the PTO lever/cover assembly like it shows yours removed in the beginning of this CZcams? I want to see in there to make sure I can get the old PTO shaft out and hopefully it isn't stuck or bent. It does not vibrate and spins correctly even though the splines are all bent (rear). I was hoping I could gain some advantage by removing the lever and cover assembly that could help me remove the old shaft assembly. Your thoughts and advice please?

So to fill the differential, you put the fluid in the transmission and it finds its way all the way back to the differential??

Do you have the PTO lever in the engaged or disengaged position when reinstalling the PTO shaft? I am doing mine tomorrow. Thanks!

Did you replace your Oil Pressure gauge? If so, where did you get it? I have the original one that came with my tractor, but the line is leaking really bad behind the Hydraulic pump (the oil pressure line).

The picture is spectacular!

Is the valve cover vent on your tractor clogged as that could cause over pressure of the crank case and the leaks you pointed out. I suspect you have already done the head gasket. But if not, two things often work: 1.) Just repeat the head torque sequence and add 5ftlb to the final torque, and 2.). "K-Seal". It is snake oil that works. I used on my Son's Mazda RX-8 Rotary Engine with blown internal coolant seals, and on my 1996 GMC 3/4 Ton 4x4 7.5 Liter, Suburban with 227,000.00 miles on it. The Mazda was blowing white smoke from water in the chambers and everyone said it was dead. It has 37,000.00 more miles on it now and has never had a problem. The Suburbans with 454/7.5 Liters tend to blow head or intake manifold gaskets over 170,000.0 miles. Mine started loosing water and smelled like coolant when parked. I was adding at least 2 quarts of water a day. I put in K-Seal and its been about 12,000.0 miles and I haven't added a drop of coolant since putting in the K-Seal. The stuff works!

I really enjoy watching you work and like that you are humble and don't try and make yourself out to be something your are not with clever edits and such. By keeping it real, it is much easier to learn from you. Thank you.

How many bolts per side does it take to remove the hood assembly like you did? I have not investigated mine. The previous owner told me I can pivot the assembly forward on the two bolts at the bottom of the grill that you removed. Is that true? Please pardon my dumb questions. I did not grow up with tractors or on a farm and my old Jubilee is the first tractor I ever owned (I'm 67 years old). I just got it running and now want to make the improvements and restorations you have as I have someone to follow. I have lived on 2 acres for the past 45 years and have maintained it with a John Deere 317 and just recently for fun purchased an outstanding John Deere 140 with all implements. So I know Garden Tractors, but nothing about real tractors or 3 points. I have another dumb question: What is the mason jar elbow extension that I see sometimes sticking out from where the air filter grill is on the left side of the hood? Why do some people have that on their tractor and others don't? What does it do? Thank you.

How did you remove the large lower bearing race from the base of the steering tube?

Who do you use for parts sources like for bearings and gaskets, O-Rings and how do you know how to get the correct sizes? Thanks!

The transmission on 9N,2N, and 8N use the same oil for trans, hydraulic, and rear end. 80-W90 gear oil.

What color and brand paint did you use for the Red Color?

Your tractor is super clean inside!

Looks like fun. I have an 8N and I remember when I was small that my grandad farmed with one too in the 50's.

To all you saying ton get a overrun clutch its not a 9n 2n or 8n tractor, the mower will not push this model tractor, also they make a special pin for that mower that fits where you got those cheap bolts, they're like 7/8"

You dont know how Hard its to re assamble the splited tractor on the grass, not on a solid ground, great job by the way!!

Nice job. I recently did the same. Just watched to see if I missed anything. I guess not. Thanks.

Most of us don't have a press.

Thanks for the video Sir. Its good to see the the steps to resolve a very annoying and common problem

JUST BOUGHT A FORD JUBILEE,, TO BRUSH HOG OUR LOWER FEILDS,, IT CAME WITH A DEUTZ ALLIS,, FIVE FT THREE BLADE ,,

Great job on the video, thanks bro

Great purchase best luck in the future.

So, our seal looks fine. But the lower plate loos like it's leaking. I have the bolts out, but the plate seems stuck? Any advice would be helpful, even knowing what to expect behind it!

My Jubilee is leaking on the left side, but my 8N was leaking on the right before I fixed it.

Nice video lets you know what you are getting into.

Poo video doesnt show when you putting everything together

I'm running a Ferguson TO 20 tractor and I want to get a brush hog. What is your HP rating and what's the width of your mower?

Love the smell of it when it first started cold 😊

Once had one and gear box was junk No parts

Dont listen the the morons, your doing a fine job, keep it up.

Great purchase, but you may want to invest in a air impact in the near future.

New Sub! Love to see honest people doing honest work to bring the old things back to life. That mower was run Hard but with the work you do with it, it'll last a lifetime. Try and get an inexpensive MIG welder - it will up your metalworking/fixit game to a whole new level! Keep up the great work!

Can you run a tap in the gear box holes and put in a next size up bolt?

If you wonder why most bush hogs are curved at the back corners you will find out when you are following a fence and come to a corner. I had a square Ford bush hog and got in a corner and almost got into the wire trying to get out.