Video

Thanks, if you check my latest videos I do a somewhat MGS themed build 👍

Just don't use a computer

I could but what's the point, 3 motors, 3 batteries? BMX frames don't have a lot of room for things and that is just adding more components to try and fit 👍

Thanks for watching 🍻

Awesome 🍻 Hope your build goes well

I hope it works for you 🍻

Go for it! 🍻

You will need to stretch. BMX is 110mm dropouts, most kits are 135mm. Some front wheel kits are 110 but they are meant for the front wheel.

@@hightech-lowlife Okay, thanks for the advice, I love your videos!

@@Chucklodown14 No problem! Thank you. A 15mm stretch is very small that is a little over a half an inch, but remember that is split between each side, so really a 1/4in per side, it's very small.

@@hightech-lowlife Thanks for your help (:

@@Chucklodown14 💯🍻

Thanks man! I haven't stopped, maybe just an extended period of not posting 😂 been busy working on things that I will show you guys soon 🍻🍻

Thanks man 👍

It'll fit 👍

No problem!

This is the stock tank that came with the bike. 👍

Do you know if the mounting points for the tanks are the same for the 920 and 750 for ‘81

@@jeffbafaro2171 For the tank? Pretty sure it is the same.

Yes, but I would check with handheld scientific if they can confirm it will work with your specific controller. They are very DIY friendly, so in the even it didn't work, I believe they would refund you for the return even if you mess something up.

In their FAQ they actually say game controllers are not supported. I've been building a similar device for around a year and I've actually managed to have support for basic game controllers (no xbox and other controllers that require extra drivers though)

Yes, I have since sold this bike but I am certain it is still working. 👍

@@hightech-lowlife thx dude can;t wait to make one my self.

@@merlijntjetovenaar1004 Cool, I am making another carbon bike version soon. I will show it on this channel, it will have about 5x the power this one does.

​@@hightech-lowlife cool. would you recommend a torque arm for a 36v 350W motor? or is that not necessary

@@merlijntjetovenaar1004 If your frame is steel and the dropout thickness is sufficient then I personally wouldn't bother. If it is aluminum then I would. 350W is not a lot, just make sure your axle nuts are tight.

👍

Ok i got my answer at 14:00 😅

@@BLUE-uy3fb For ebikes, getting to 60mph is expensive, getting to 40 is pretty cheap. You have to pay a lot for that extra 20mph. Gas bikes also have a huge advantage for going fast as they are designed to do that for a long amount of time (freeway riding). If you run an ebike at highway speeds, even the production ev motorcycles like Zero Motorcycles your ev range drops considerably when going those speeds for any length of time. Same for EV cars going high speeds, towing, etc. EVs are better for slower, stop and go usage like city driving.

Thanks 🍻

Thanks 👍

That's awesome man, keep going you can figure it out! 👍

Not sure what you mean

🍻 Thanks man

It's a pretty easy mod

Did you run through the tests outlined in the video?

For hub motors If it's 1500W or less then whatever is cheap (voilamart, juaopay, etc). I will use NB Power for 3-6KW, and if it's more than that (10-20KW) I will use QS Motor.

Thanks man!

It works, but I wouldn't recommend it as my battery knowledge since this build has increased a ton. It's better to just make a single pack with a single BMS 👍

I've made multiple full suspension builds on my channel already 👍

May be possible if you gut a different keyboard for the transciever. Haven't seen any selectable ones available for DIY.

Thanks, it's a pretty nice setup 👍

Go with this one: www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802033522957.html

Thanks man!

My experience with bluetooth has been very good/consistent but YMMV. I have some new modules to test and one of them is 2.4, I will make an update on this video showing the new modules and comparing them 👍

@@hightech-lowlife That sounds great. I also like the idea of the 2.4 being plug and play vs. pairing.

@@pimplefacedprick2595 There are pros and cons to both, for 2.4 you need a USB plug for the dongle which isn't always handy depending on which device you're using.

@@hightech-lowlife I can agree with that...enter 2.4 - 5Ghz over wifi.

@@pimplefacedprick2595 Wired is still the best, least complicated, most reliable.

🐐Thanks man

You use the pedals with your feet, not your arms. 👍

@@hightech-lowlife do you know what a torque arm is

It could be done in a number of ways, but there are some boards with a mic input: www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806096589128.html

Thanks man!

Check for any obstructions that would prevent it from coming fully off. How much is it moving before it stops? Once the screws are out the only thing holding it on is friction, it's possible you just need to pull/pry harder.

If the connector in the controller is faulty then I don't think it would be possible for the rest of the tests to succeed, although I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "connector in the controller"?

@@hightech-lowlife hmm good point and what i meant was theres a connector in the controller that leads to the hall sensors

@@hightech-lowlife but yeah jeez i think ur right that the tests wouldn't succeed if the controller wasn't connected properly to the halls sensors

@@tbounds4812 This is true 👍What issue are you having?

@@hightech-lowlife error 19 on a ninebot g30 max scooter its related to incorrect hall sensor values from the motor

03-09 👍

@@hightech-lowlife any way we could buy the adapter file from you? I might reduce the thickness of metal used, but besides that it's solid.

@@dubbleA100 Are you looking for the template file for the laser cut parts, or the 3D model? I completely overbuilt this thing, and if I were going to do it again I would simplify it a lot. Not only for ease of building it, but also be cheaper and much lighter.

@@hightech-lowlife I'm not the best in 3d modeling, but the 3d model would work if the template file couldn't be used to upload to send cut send with a thinner material.

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They don't have to be much heavier, there are so many different ebike styles and sizes. I have a few that feel exactly the same as pedaling a non-powered bike 👍

1500W should be plenty of power to climb a hill, and you may want to pedal as well to assist. If you need to go 40MPH uphill then by all means spend the thousands to get yourself there 👍 Gas powered still makes more economical sense if you are needing to go very fast up steep hills.

@@hightech-lowlife won't you agree if someone wants an E bike that can go up to 40 MPH at that point they better buy a motorcycle helmet & not that stupid E bike Helmet ? I think going super fast on an E bike is very dangerous cause they shift speed so very fast & so suddenly that a car going at the same speed can't keep up with the agility of the e Bike. I lived in San Fran most E bikes in my opinion can't handle the hills on a daily bases & trying to use pedal assist is still very hard because those E bikes are so much heavier than a regular Bike so it takes more work to pedal even with the assist , & plus Bicycles /E bikes are not designed to go super fast at faster speeds.. unlike a a Harley that comes in at like 480 to 500 pounds; the physics of going super fast on a E bike is not supported ;the laws of physics will take out the rider .. more dangerous than riding a motorcycle at super higher speeds.. just my opinion..

Shouldn't be too hard, first just convert the IBM to USB (it's been done many times), then this will go from USB to BT 👍

Totally doable, 1500W should get you to 35MPH roughly 👍

Thanks so much man 👍