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@Chris-ec9lc if you're referring to the oil feed passage, no. That hole is at top of bore far away from sealer.

@MARIOBERSANO-j9g the front elbow can be purchased from new holland dealers, or there is an aftermarket kit that has a bent pipe. The elbow at the rear on the manifold I don't think is available new, so you'd have to source a used one.

Kit is SRK401. You can buy it from numerous places online. Just have to Google it and find your favorite retailer.

@DagfinnVikse not sure on that model. If the lever is stuck I'd say something inside the top may be bound up.

@@chickenhousemechanic Ok, hmm it looks just like yours, is there somthing werry important we need to think about when we take of the top to have a look?

@@DagfinnVikse worn parts, bent parts, or corrosion. I've not had one of those covers off.

@@chickenhousemechanic Hi we have found the issue it was the HYDRAULIC LIFT QUADRANT SUPPORT that is stuck, and we need to order new parts where is the best place to buy them?

@DagfinnVikse new parts can probably be had from a new holland dealer. As for used look up Mike Smith implements on Facebook. He does a lot of ford tractor salvage.

@narcissistinjurygiver2932 depends on what parts are needed. Gaskets, springs, bearings, and seals are easy to come by and aren't too expensive. Hard parts such as gears, forks, rails, and shafts can be found new but aren't cheap. Used parts are readily available, but prices vary wildly.

@@chickenhousemechanic thanks I am watching you do the ford 5 spd now. I am looking to buy a ford 2000. any suggestions?

@narcissistinjurygiver2932 I don't have any personal experience with a 2000, but I'd make sure it runs good and strong in every gear, 3 point works, and check tire conditions. Rear tires can be more than the cost of the tractor. Check fluid levels and condition also. Make sure clutch doesn't slip and shifts without grinding.

Never thought about doing that.

Zinc plating or electroplating is what to search for. Some shops should do them. Back when I did the 861 I sent some parts out to be clear and yellow zinc plated. That was 14 years ago and they charged me their minimum prices which were $50 and $55 respectively.

Thank you. I'm glad videos help you rebuild your tractor. A lot of videos aren't very detailed, so when I set our to do these, I made sure to add as many details as I could.

I honestly have no idea. Don't know if there's a setting on CZcams that controls that or not.

I would look for a 2 bottom plow that is either a 12 or 14 inch spacing. There's many brands of good ones that parts can still be had for. A good one usually runs around $500 in my area. As for a cultivator, a simple single row works great. Bush hogs are a little tricky on 8ns. A 4 foot will be OK in high grass and a 5 foot in shorter grass will work but you'll want an over running clutch on your pto for either size. Prices can vary widely on bush hogs.

@@chickenhousemechanic thanks. any other attachments you recommend? i am still watching your vid

@narcissistinjurygiver2932 you'll want a disc harrow to smooth your field after you plow it. That's pretty much the basics. A rototiller is nice but would be a nightmare to run on an 8n.

@@chickenhousemechanic the reason i am looking at a 8n is because it is cheap, easy to fix, parts are cheap. Is there a better tractor that meets all those qualities that you can recommend?

@narcissistinjurygiver2932 the hundred series up through the thousand series are great tractors but they are more than an 8n for sure. An 8n will do most work needed for a small farm but if you ever get a chance to use a newer tractor you'll see the shirt comings of an 8n. Pretty much all I use the 8n for anymore is cultivating and pulling a trailer.

Yes. They were used on many cars and trucks back in the day. I actually got mine from Napa.

The tank to filter lines I made from 1/4" tubing. The hose from the filter to the pump came from New Holland. Part number 84252200.

Hard to say since those numbers aren't adding up. A diesel wasn't available in 1956. The engine number should be a B9NN-6015B to be a diesel engine. That would be an early 172ci engine vs the 6015J. The 2120 could be a serial number but if it's the model number than that would be a 2000 model tractor which puts it as a 1963 or 1964 but with the smaller 144ci diesel engine or 134ci gas engine.

No. Nothing else on the tractor hooks to the voltage regulator. Everything will hook to battery, junction block or ignition switch.

Most likely a broken or worn detent spring or bullet. 3rd and reverse is the top detent on the left side where the 3 flat head bolts are.

Better a clutch than a back.

Not sure of the code. It's the ford new holland blue available from new holland dealers. I think it's called empire blue though.

Part numbers are in video around minute 24. Ordered them from McMaster-Carr.

Let me see if I can answer these questions and comments. I did cut a lot of the plowing out because it does get boring however seeing it done a few times can help people see how it's done and what it should look like. As for using the tractors, that's what the video is about. There's plenty of videos out there of people planting potatoes by hand. I wanted to showcase the old equipment being used. The names of each implement is before each section. As for the cost today, I have no clue. Every piece in the video, with the exception of the hilling attachment, is older than me. My grandfather bought them all and I bought the 861 a couple years after he passed. I built the hilling attachment maybe 4 years ago. We bush hog the tops off the plants so they don't clog the middle buster when digging. Downside in the vide, and that yea, grass really fought me so grass was pulling the middle buster out of the ground. For turning the tractor aroun, it depends on what is being done as to whether I reverse and go beside the same row or skip rows. While laying off rows I have chain dragging to mark the next row so each row is done side by side. Hilling can be either way. I usually do 1st two side by side to check how the hiller is working. Bush hogging was done in circles. Hope this helps to clear up some things. And thanks for the comment.

No idea. I have seen a few old GE bulbs for sale on ebay but they're few and far.

New Holland dealer. 86534432 is the part number.

@@chickenhousemechanic thank you

You can get those parts off amazon or ebay. The pumps seem intimidating but they're really not. I have another video on rebuilding the pump since I had to take mine back apart, since I put the governor pivot shaft in backward, that's a little more detailed than this one. As for the veins, that's up to you. They're not too expensive. The wear tolerance on them is very small, so if you're having fueling issues it might be worth it.

I ended up having mine rebuilt since the guy came so highly recommended from a friend, and he included all new parts for (what I think) is a reasonable price. I got around to installing it this past weekend, but it won't fire, only white smoke. I feel like it's not advancing enough but I have the advance maxed out. Do you have any ideas on what I can do to fix it? I've verified everything is like your install video and matches factory specification but I can't help but feel I'm missing something. I did not remove it like you suggest in this video. Unfortunately, I forgot that step when I took it apart.

@fpstobi7728 if it's puffing smoke but not firing, and assuming the engine and air intake are in good working condition, the pump isn't timed correctly. If you followed all steps in the install video and it's not firing then the pump ins't timed properly internally.

I will call the rebuilder and talk to them then, thank you sir!

Yep. Should be a collar you have to slide down on bindex to get pin in.

Im installing a new bendix and cannot compress the collar by hand like you show in the video. my welding clamps are to big to fit in between the starter and the bendix. My carpentry clamps slip off. any ideas on how to compress a new bendix?

@kraylake12 can you put something smaller into the hole on one side and push the collar down and slide pin in from other? Those collars shouldn't be too hard to push down. They're not weak by any means but they shouldn't be so stiff you can't push it down.

Thank you. If yours is anything like mine it's smooth as butter shifting. Glad they were able to help you rebuild it.

Reminds me of my tractor and growing up on the farm still have that tractor !

Sizes I used are in video at 36:26. I had a heck of time getting mine to not leak. I had to clean paint off the pump at that spot and tighten the heck out of of the fitting. Pretty sure I still have the metric o-rings in it too.

Glad to hear you got some stuff fixed. I do not sell any parts though.

Not sure, but good possibility.

Do you have the link to McMaster Carr for the wrap you used?

@tjtharp2432 this is the item number for the tape. 76525A752