Bleeding and tuning Diesel injection pump on Ford 172 diesel engine
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- čas přidán 23. 08. 2024
- How to bleed injection system on a 1958-1964 Ford Tractor as well as setting throttle controls.
Setting engine up to install injection pump:
• How to install an inje...
Rebuilding injection pump
• Rebuilding a Roosa Mas...
As you continue to release these excellent videos I am so excited to do this work on my 62 961D and 62 4000D utility. Following the book is one thing but seeing the process is so helpful. Thank you for making these. Your machine sounds and looks amazing!
Thank you. I agree, the service manual is great but actually seeing the work done makes it a whole lot easier to understand.
Thank you for the great video. . I went out on my Ford 600 tractor diesel and set that injection pump up just line you said and wow did it work . It had been idling around 1200 rpm’s. So I went thru the whole process from your video and it run’s great now . Thank you
Good to hear. Glad I was able to help you.
Great videos man. Really enjoy them. Working on a 841 d 1959 very similar. Had some trying times but coming together
Thank you. Yeah these things can test your nerves sometimes. I love my 861-D. I'm sure you'll love your's once it's finished.
There should be a bleed screw on the side of the injection pump that you need to open to get air out of the pump. That will speed the process greatly and save all that wear and tear on the starter.
Where is a bleeder screw? As far as I know there are no bleeder screws on this pump. Service manual doesn't mention one either.
@@chickenhousemechanic There isn’t one
@@ford9000puller that's what I was thinking. The later thousand series have them, at least on the simms pumps, but ive never seen one on the DB Roosa Msster pumps.
I’ve never seen or heard of one
No such thing on a Roosa Master, just crank and let the vent wire do its thing.
Simms on the other hand, has the bleed screws and an excess fuel button.
My 801 powermaster is getting diesel in the oil I am pretty sure it is a seal in the injection pump, which one do you think it could be?
Usually the umbrella seals are the culprit. Also check the injector leak off line under the valve cover. They can crack and leak diesel into the crankcase.
Where did you order your tank to filter and filter to pump fuel lines?
The tank to filter lines I made from 1/4" tubing. The hose from the filter to the pump came from New Holland. Part number 84252200.
Good job! Where did you find the rubber hose which connects the filter to the fuel injection pump? Thanks
It was from CNH. Part number is 311626. Updated part number is 84252200.
Did you end up timing this at 18 or 23 degrees? To move from 18 to 23 do you need to move the drive gear over one tooth or do you just spin the pump? Just started my rebuild 861 up for the first time and she smokes... smokes so bad.
Pretty sure I settled on 18. Seems like it didn't act right on 23 so I backed it down. To change timing you just have to spin the pump. Mine is still smoking pretty bad when cold but warmed up it doesn't smoke unless I rev it. Really think mine is oil blowby since the smoke is more blue than white.
@@chickenhousemechanic thanks. it was smoking so bad it was burning my eyes couldn't be in the garage lol. I'll fire it up again tonight and just check the timing and whatnot. These things seem to take a bit to get right!
@@tylerjezowski5633 yeah they take some finaggling to get right. I've tweaked on mine some since videos and gotten it better but it still runs different than my 861-D.
@@chickenhousemechanic what else have you tweaked? any other ideas as to why she's smoking so bad or what I should look for? similar to you i did the injectors and pump myself.
@@tylerjezowski5633 I mainly tweaked the throttle leakage so far. Havent messed with anything internally in the pump yet.
Got to be first
I changed the fuel filter on mine (same engine) and am having trouble starting again. Bled lines all the way to the head (injectors), any advice on how to start again?
If you have diesel all the way to the injectors after changing the filter it should fire off and run. Only issue I would think of would be possibly the wrong filter but it most likely wouldn't have bled if that was the case.
@@chickenhousemechanic Thank you for replying. Using a Napa 3165 but had an FF138 (Fleetguard) on before.
@@JohnSmith-fs4dx the napa 3165 is what I have on this 4000.
Really it takes me two hours most of the time to get it bleeding out to infection lines
Can you tell who sellss thzt rubber line to injector pump
I purchased that one from a New Holland dealer. They were still readily available when I purchased it.
Where did you get the fuel return line fittings
The 1/4" flare nuts are from dorman. The 1/8" compression fittings I got from napa. They should also have the flare nuts.
The punp turns c or cc
This pump spins counter clockwise as viewed from the drive end. Metal tag on pump should show CC or C on these pumps denoting which way they're built.
I don’t crank them that long and let starter cool for 15/30 minutes
No hurry to burn it up