Working On The Ford 4000 - CAV Injection Pump Swap & Some Other Things
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- čas přidán 26. 07. 2024
- Howdy.
This is our Ford 4000 tractor that's got a newer generation 4000 engine on it.
The original engine blew up and since it wasn't worth fixing, we bought a newer generation engine from a tractor salvage junkyard and had someone replace it for us.
We noticed the injection pump was bad on this newer engine, so I took the other pump from the spare engine, installed it, and was pleased to see that it works like a charm. Prior to that, the engine wouldn't start without ether and it would randomly shut off, especially when it got warm. With the new CAV Pump, it starts up really fast, it doesn't even crank twice before it's all started up and ready to go.
Changed the oil in it, installed a new voltage regulator and managed to properly route and secure the wires.
Not a long time ago, I started up this new engine on a trailer in a stand alone setup.
Now, it's finally on the Ford and hoping it'll last for a long time.
Hope you like the video, and if you do, then you know what to do.
I appreciate it.
Time Stamps:
0:00 - Oil Change
2:23 - CAV Injection Pump Swap
9:52 - Wiring Management - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Yeah Dave !!! you've make a nice job for your Ford you've got Gold hands ! if you want my friend , you can make mécanic in my Golf !! Big like and see you later my friend , jojo !
Fordu a revenit 👍🤘
Gracias por mostrar tu trabajo.
Una pregunta.
No hay marcas de grados y de puesta a punto de la bomba?
O es la única posición que puede encajar la brida?
Like de la mine! ✌🏻❤️
Hi, thanks for the clip! I did as you showed, I mounted the pump to the tractor (Ford 3610, year 1982), but the tractor does not move :(
If I put some carburetor spray in the air filter, the tractor starts and everything is fine, that is, the pump works, but to start, the tractor fails to start. What did I do wrong?
Hello there.
I’ve had the same problem with the old pump where it wouldn’t start without spraying to the intake. Then it would run for a while and then shut itself off.
In my case, the pump wasn’t working properly, thus why I replaced it.
Regarding your issue, make sure the fuel lines aren’t obstructed, fittings are tightened on the pump (so there wouldn’t be any leaking fuel line), prime it until there’s no air locked inside the fuel system.
When changing the injection pump, it is vital that you do not move the timing gears. As shown in my video, you can make a mark on them gears, so as to not mess up the timing.
I’ve had a similar issue only to find that the plug beneath the fuel tank which delivers the fuel to the filters l, got clogged up and that’s what caused the problem.
If you have good fuel flow, no locked air and no leaks, then I suspect the injection pump or the return valve might cause the problem.
Dave.
@@Dave77 ok. thanks, so what can i do now? wher is the 'return valve' located?
@@Ariel1526 Maybe you’ll find this article useful: tractortechspecs.com/ford_4610_tractor_problems.html
Do you just put water in the radiator
Yes, I do. It’s been clogged up, so no coolant before I clean it properly.
@@Dave77 Please show how you clean the cooling system :)
What were the symptoms of the bad injection pump?
Well, other than no engine power, it would shut itself of repeatedly, did not idle right and would not start without spraying the intake.
The new pump works great.
@Dave77 got a 4100 that I'm leaning towards injection pump. Runs somewhat decent for about 45 minutes then starts missing and black/blueish smoke.