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It's not the battery cells being close together (or touching) cause thermal runaway per se... It is every individual battery cell that has deliberate design flaw to make negative and positive metal so close together, causing resistance and heat as more current flows through the cell. Watch this video, it will explain to you in detail -> czcams.com/video/zBRU20bE4Y8/video.htmlsi=owNTFd4s7Iz8mguA why it is so dangerous. Be sure to read the description or sticky comment in that video as well why the criminals do this to all battery cells in the general market and not for their own special high energy high output batteries.

Nice. God told me that you are riding an ebike with that battery... . . . You know you should get a scooter (5600w scooter size, as it has big enough deck inside and big motors to spare) and build large batteries. And later build another pack and use an external battery bag to mount on the steering column of the scooter and parallel them via cable plugs. You can then travel longer at least 60 miles and at 30 mph cruising speed. My current scooter is now equipped with total of 3 battery packs in parallel, the third one is installed inside the storage case in the bike trailer hooked up to my scooter. The range is now over 120 miles. The trouble to the world is coming soon where there will be no more gasoline and electricity supply.... as they come from underground run by the high-level criminals and they are gonna get all eliminated in the near future.

Reading scriptures is no good... The criminal bosses made that up to deceive people for their gains... Very few have good scriptures that is truth but most are no good... Hear from God directly. Bible books will lead you to death.

@@noobz5056 you must think much about what you say, because it undermines ,..the sacrifice, righteous and holy connection of the prophets to the Almighty, just like you would fine tune the radio to a specific station you want to hear, these prophets were finely tuned, and through great sorrow and tribulation, they did not have it easy, and it is to them the Almighty has revealed his will, to his Holy prophets as pure water, that later spread to other people, by much dedication in translating the scrolls to make it available to the world so that anyone who rejects and chooses to be ignorant of this would have no excuse on the day of judgment you can agree friend that, ignorance of state laws is no defense and it is therefore the same with the laws of the heavenly Kingdom Hebrews 9:27 And as it is appointed for men to die once, but after this the judgment,

If you got the throttle wires matched and phase wires matched and still get no throttle response then it's the controller not recognizing the battery correctly, likely the controller is expecting higher voltage and the battery doesn't meet that spec. The controller thinks the voltage is too low so it cuts off power... That's what happened to me turned out;

And look at Russia now. If Gorbachev had remained in power for a few more years, Russia wouldn't be a cautionary tale for the rest of the world, and there would be another 480K living Russian men. The Russia of yesteryear was formidable; the Russia of today is nothing but an empty husk. Ahhhhh, the good old days when Russia was relevant.

From what God told me recently the demon visualization devices got stolen by the international criminals that came to Russia underground to take over the operation that the Russian elites and their agencies including the military generals used to occupy and run. They were all killed, including the international criminals there in many deep underground locations. God told me that the nuclear explosions (they got nukes there too, including the red liquid reserves) happened there and fully flooded with magma. A lot of magma activities increasing around the world. And God told me that the blueprints for developing this device is gone and nobody left alive to reproduce this device as of now.

Glad to help 🙂

Another tip for anyone: If the plastic wrap is coming off near the + end, DO NOT put it in something (Vape) it will short and catch on fire VERY FAST and unless you take it out, it will explode. Be careful! :)

Thanks.🙂 You can get the batteries at bulk-battery.myshopify.com/collections/wholesale-21700-batteries Much cheaper than other google-referred places where they charge you arms and legs for them. *EDIT: AS OF APRIL 5, DO NOT ORDER ANY BATTERIES FROM THE SITE I LINKED ABOVE. The person running this store takes the orders but doesn't ship out.. The phone and email support has cut off. He was trying to steal our money.*

It's okay.. no offense taken.🙂

@@noobz5056 thanks, brother

For cross state long rides in a scooter you need tremendous amount of batteries because the batteries easily get exhausted (heat buildup) and lose efficiency meaning it loses charge faster. If you have many battery packs connected in parallel the stress is greatly reduced hence the efficiency of each cell maximizes.. It's much easier on the battery for long extensive rides. You could build 5 to 10 large battery packs (10 x 16s 6p) and mount on the bike trailer and run the battery wires to the scooter inside the deck. Make connectors so you can easily plug or unplug.. and charging all these battery packs takes same time or faster than charging a single battery pack with a standard 2A charger.. That's why making big battery packs is so much better.. I will make video on wiring the most efficient way to parallel connect multiple battery packs in the future.🙂

48V motor can handle 72V (84V full charge) without damaging so 60V is perfectly fine. You'll get more power from the bigger heavier motor 60V or 72V motor however. It's not good to mix-match battery brands and models when building a single battery pack but building multiple battery packs with different batteries and connect them in parallel (and series too) connection will not hurt anything.

And thanks for the comment 🙂

Sorry I don't know what you mean by bore caps can you please reiterate..

He means the black cap that says "use mineral oil only"

Oh ok I see what you mean now. No you don't need to remove that. You have to unscrew the bolt that secures the brake cable that connects to the brake caliper to fill hydraulic oil.. You have to use allen key wrench to unscrew that. But I say screw all this shit and just replace the brake with mechanical brake system because this DYISLAND brakes are junk and is very difficult to bleed proerly due to air trap..

Lol!

Btw, I think he needs to change his Brakes O ring. Thats why he needs to remove that cap

Thanks 🙂

Thanks..🙂

Thanks for the kind words!.. I am actually hoping to get a motor upgrade, 2800W 60V or 3500W 72V motor. Sounds like a great deal you got there. Can you please link me a link to that manufacturer? would like to take a look.:)

Hi, this should fit on your scooter -> www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804320008982.html?spm=a2g0n.productlist.0.0.468d2241XefdGr&browser_id=a2a2af93b9d34d9ea53162fd6d0f17ba&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=fumvhqzvyzicaawe18d6b606c1be9546ddfca8dcb4&gclid=&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%2184.49%2159.99%21%21%2184.49%2159.99%21%402101c80217069035056502780eac6b%2112000033660251885%21sea%21US%212511244616%21Z&algo_pvid=472a26d9-8b01-49de-b6fa-79548455324b

@noobz5056 thanks but this is not in English, any phone number to call someone to order? Also this 5600w only can go 37mph and I'm 220lbs, any help with this? Thanks a bunch 🙏

@DavidSanchez-cc7sq Try registering to create an account there and try logging in. It should display in english. You can get a lot of stuff cheap there.. As for speed the bottleneck is the factory battery (Samsung 29E). The controllers and the motors have to handle power but the battery has very low discharge rating... your speed depends on the battery output. You'll have to replace the battery pack with a different battery pack as they will produce higher output. Or you can build the battery pack yourself or I can build it for you with good batteries. Another problem is that your dual controllers are not safe for your motor when you run in dual motor as it has a tendency to cause motor to break (typically the motor in the front) so you will need to replace your controllers with an aftermarket single more powerful aftermarket controller (100A rated) to make it go much faster with the new battery.

@noobz5056 awesome , thank you very much for the info because I thought this would go faster since other scooters that have 1,000W dual or even 2,000W can go 35-40 with ease, so my first step would be to upgrade the battery then the front controller and that should be good or most likely both controllers strong 100A rated for this to go at least 50 since it would blow if I continue to ride it at 37mph daily right ? Thanks for all your help because my Storm can really move but don't like to ride it alot because it's heavy just going up 5 steps..lol

@DavidSanchez-cc7sq Yeah 35- 37 mph daily ride will be too much for your battery. As for the front motor it would not be advisable to run both of them at the same time because dual controllers have a tendency to damage one of the motors (it's a design flaw for many scooters). It's safer to run one big controller to power rear motor only.. If the battery is not a limiting factor even a 75A (Sinewave would be better) controller can get you much higher top speed. That should get you close to 60 mph with your body weight.:)

Ok God told me that you live in offgrid and you are in need of solar panel setup to charge your phone and power all other needs. Get at least one 24V panel or two. Each will cost a little over $200. Get a charge controller for the battery here -> www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805798227949.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa Get a 60V battery pack here -> www.amazon.com/Wroyeti-Electric-Extension-Connector-200-1800W/dp/B0BG5G6VW7/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=2TPGF3Z9QJL3N&keywords=60v+scooter+battery&qid=1706720715&sprefix=60v+scooter+battery%2Caps%2C197&sr=8-3&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.c3015c4a-46bb-44b9-81a4-dc28e6d374b3 Get an ebike controller to power USB devices here -> www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09FQ52163/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_10?smid=AA5PISMZNU1KS&psc=1 You also need Y split XT60 connector cables to power USB ports. And you need USB ports get them here -> www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804439558261.html?spm=a2g0n.order_detail.order_detail_item.2.41b6f19cTWfNQE&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa and get some 20 gauge wires to connect some wires and heatshrink. If you need help on wiring USB ports watch my videos about powering these devices. Let me know for more questions.🙂

Thank you..🙂 Yes not using BMS doesn't cause fire, short-circuiting can cause connector metals on the batteries can.

Do u know how to rewire ,hub motors 2000w ,I've try once and nothing happen lol. But I'm about to try my second attempted, ,hope u could maybe advise me as to where I'm going wrong briefly,or I'd love to see a video step by step.keep it up brother

I had a 48v 15ah was only a year old.so I've striped and checked out the battery pack wiring.no power,an not charging .so now I've dismantled batterys bit by bit, checked each one and the fully charged ,so yeH was THE BMS THAT FAILED.,THIS IS MY FIRST build copying what I've seen u do on utube,,thankyou

@user-no8fh6qp9d Do you have two controllers that came with the scooter?.. If that's the case make sure that those 3 phase cables (yellow, green, blue) from the motor are connected to the primary (master) controller and not the secondary controller that is bridged. That should get the motor going.

@user-no8fh6qp9d I am afraid it's not the bms that failed, it is your battery that gone bad from high current charging. Even if the cell is showing the voltage it will hold no charge when put to load.. You'll have to buy new cells.

Yes if you are building a 48V battery pack use a 48V(54.6V full charge) charger. If you have a 60V battery use a 60V charger. Don't use silver epoxy though cause it's fake silver. Just use nickel strip and spot weld..

Umm I've already done it in poxy,brother

I'm building what u where building on utube ,so um is that a 48v u where building or 60v.

Thanks for your help ,I love to see more videos of other areas bro ,I've been into electronics for 3 yes just learning from. Utube , every bit from every one helps .thankyou

@user-no8fh6qp9d Mine was a 60V battery build. I found out later that all these silver epoxies aren't real silver content. The epoxy turned yellow after some use, and will kill the battery cells. These epoxy would've been fine for 5V applications. Sorry for the misleading video.

Don't use silver epoxy as they are fake silver... I got scammed for usin that. You can't find real silver as the criminals underground collect the real stuff.

You don't need no stinkin' BMS...BMS won't balance charge, it's the batteries in a pack that will self-balance. BMS will attempt to discharge and recharge unnecessarily and take you longer time to fully charge. Just make sure that you don't overvolt charging your battery. For 60V battery charge at 67.2V. For a 48V battery charge at 54.6V and so forth. The BMS however will protect you from overvolting (not the same as overcharging), meaning don't use a 67.2V charger on a 48V battery. I buy batteries at bulk-battery.com and the price is better there.

I believe the lifepo4 charger charges at lower charging voltage as those batteries nominal voltage is 3.2V and not 3.6. You need to use a regular li-ion battery charger for the 36V battery pack.

Thanks for that infor,would it matter if i charge it through a BMS or would I still need a regular li-ion charger@@noobz5056

Don't need no stinkin bms or inline fuse nonsense. You need to stop reading textbook of nonsense the government teaches... When they tell you go kill yourself are you going to say "YES, I COMPLY BY ALL YOUR RULES CAUSE I WORSHIP YOU". Wake da fuck up.

Really

You are a long way behind. You are trying to school me something I already know. These are 30A discharge Samsung 40T cells. The culprit of the problem with the voltage drop is the fake silver content in the epoxy. The problem resolved as soon as I used the spotwelding with the nickel strips to ensure reliable electrical connection. And yes the higher number of parallel connections do give more stable power delivery even with cheap Chinese low discharge rate cells.

@@noobz5056Glad that you solved the problem. But still your video is misleading when you say, the higher the parallel connection is the better. While in theory, higher parallel connection will increase the capacity and thus the discharge rate, but that wasn't the problem as you have mentioned with your case. It's not just simply 'more' parallel connections. And please don't mislead inexperienced viewers with not using spot welders or BMS. Using a BMS by far safer to maintain discharge and charge of the battery pack. So your video failed in two ways: you show that you can do it your way without a spot welder, the results weren't successful and two: you said at the end of your video, more parallel connections would solve the voltage sag in your case, obviously, you've said it, it did not.

@@mansoora.7322 If the silver epoxy wasn't fake it would've worked fine on the battery build. The seller and the suppliers' bosses (high level criminals) lied by selling fake silver (and gold too) to the public and they keep the real content in their underground living. God told me that you need enough "physical" battery cells to reduce voltage dip/spike, regardless of the discharge rate of amps of the cells. If you don't have enough cells of parallel connections the voltage dip will be high even with high discharge rate and high capacity cells. Physical number of connections do matter. One of the reasons is due to limitations of the battery cells as they do not have linear power curve. The capacity may be plenty, but the voltage spike will still be high. And you don't need BMS, as long as you are not overvolting the battery pack during charging. They don't do the balance charging, the battery cells in a pack does the self-balancing not the BMS. And you don't need BMS to limit discharge rate, you use smaller controller to draw less amp, to keep the batteries within safe limit.

I think it was MG Chemical 8331D. It turns yellow goldish after a few days of use of a battery pack 60V system. God told me that I got scammed by this company.

@noobz5056 That's odd. Did you talk to the manufacturer? Your use case is pretty much what they indicate their product is intended for. When you removed the adhesive, did it seem intact other than the yellowing? It sounds like either the epoxy itself degraded or it delaminated from the substrate. I've never used the product, but I'm aware of it, and I considered using it for the same purpose. I would have chosen the same formulation too - the 8330 has a little better conductivity, but that's at the expense of strength, and if you're just bonding metal strips to batteries, the difference across a thin layer of adhesive is insignificant. Epoxy is somewhat sensitive to uv, but as far as I know, the yellowing it causes is just a cosmetic effect. What metal were you using on your strips? Silver & copper are commonly used together, though there is definitely a galvanic effect - you can make a battery from stacks of silver dimes and pennies. Does your battery get especially hot in operation? I'm assuming you let the epoxy cure for the required time. Did the loss of conductivity occur gradually, or was there a point where power dropped off really fast? With no known cause, and your use case being pretty much what the product was made for, I would definitely talk to the manufacturer. It *should* work, and it's kind of expensive to just eat the loss. I think they owe you an explanation, at least.

@@Zomby_Woof Yes the adhesive was intact but after a day or two use the voltages drop/fluctuate severely when I accelerate in my scooter. Even very gentle take-off causes severe voltage fluctuation, hence lose power. And then after less than a month of use the battery lost power completely. When I disassembled the battery pack I saw the adhesive turned yellow. When I put voltmeter stick on the yellowed adhesive it reads no voltage, but if I put the stick on the cell outside of the adhesive it reads voltage. This tells me that the adhesive deteriorates completely, making it non-conductive.. I tested this on both good name brand cells (Samsung 40T) and cheap Chinese cell pack builds with same result.. There was no high running temperature on the batteries either. I was using copper bars for connecting the cells.