Hey good to know thanks for trying it and posting. I found yor other video making this scooter battery and you do a good job speaking clear to understand. Better than the rest so more the better. I bought a 27 pound specialized 26" dual suspension mtn bike and trying to pick mid or hub motor. I want to build a battery to custom fit the triangle.. with known quality cells and a custom battery container looking good. Be my 1st ebike got a little money and time finally.. wanting to take off all day and explore all the paths, jumps etc here in Vegas and try to build quality to remain satisfied from day 1. I may purchase and use a smallr battery to hurry it up and hit the road and use it eventually use as a back up in backpack or cargo carrier. Good channel, Subscribed see you later.
FYI I recall a video on youtube where the OP was using an 80 watt Weller soldering iron to make QUICK solder joints on 18650's with a thin braided copper wire like what's used to de-solder joints. The trick was to only hold the tip to the battery just long enough for the solder to flow A couple or a few seconds was all it took for a solid connection to be made that didn't damage the cell. I don't remember if he specified a type or brand of solder that he recommended for this, but a lead/tin rosin core solder with a low melting temp of 360°F should be good for this...best of luck, subscribed, and thanks for your informative, well documented, excellent videos!!!
thanks for the update I was wondering how it was holding up. there are spot welders that use a car battery, maybe that would be an option for you... best wishes!
Thanks for the comment.. My solar panel system puts out 60V.. so the 12V battery pack would not work. I will have to get a battery-powered USB portable spot welder instead cause I can charge that at 5V with my e-bike controller..
I just remembered that I'm sure using JB Weld Professional would work it's a 2 part epoxy for metal. Sand mid rough, clean and join. I keep a large tubes handy and yea I'm sure it'll hold but give it a try let fully cure and Try to pull apart and let us know.
Exactly what product were you using? There are adhesives made for this purpose, but they aren't cheap, and its not helpful to post a video without specifying what you were using.
I think it was MG Chemical 8331D. It turns yellow goldish after a few days of use of a battery pack 60V system. God told me that I got scammed by this company.
@noobz5056 That's odd. Did you talk to the manufacturer? Your use case is pretty much what they indicate their product is intended for. When you removed the adhesive, did it seem intact other than the yellowing? It sounds like either the epoxy itself degraded or it delaminated from the substrate. I've never used the product, but I'm aware of it, and I considered using it for the same purpose. I would have chosen the same formulation too - the 8330 has a little better conductivity, but that's at the expense of strength, and if you're just bonding metal strips to batteries, the difference across a thin layer of adhesive is insignificant. Epoxy is somewhat sensitive to uv, but as far as I know, the yellowing it causes is just a cosmetic effect. What metal were you using on your strips? Silver & copper are commonly used together, though there is definitely a galvanic effect - you can make a battery from stacks of silver dimes and pennies. Does your battery get especially hot in operation? I'm assuming you let the epoxy cure for the required time. Did the loss of conductivity occur gradually, or was there a point where power dropped off really fast? With no known cause, and your use case being pretty much what the product was made for, I would definitely talk to the manufacturer. It *should* work, and it's kind of expensive to just eat the loss. I think they owe you an explanation, at least.
@@Zomby_Woof Yes the adhesive was intact but after a day or two use the voltages drop/fluctuate severely when I accelerate in my scooter. Even very gentle take-off causes severe voltage fluctuation, hence lose power. And then after less than a month of use the battery lost power completely. When I disassembled the battery pack I saw the adhesive turned yellow. When I put voltmeter stick on the yellowed adhesive it reads no voltage, but if I put the stick on the cell outside of the adhesive it reads voltage. This tells me that the adhesive deteriorates completely, making it non-conductive.. I tested this on both good name brand cells (Samsung 40T) and cheap Chinese cell pack builds with same result.. There was no high running temperature on the batteries either. I was using copper bars for connecting the cells.
Hey good to know thanks for trying it and posting. I found yor other video making this scooter battery and you do a good job speaking clear to understand. Better than the rest so more the better. I bought a 27 pound specialized 26" dual suspension mtn bike and trying to pick mid or hub motor. I want to build a battery to custom fit the triangle.. with known quality cells and a custom battery container looking good. Be my 1st ebike got a little money and time finally.. wanting to take off all day and explore all the paths, jumps etc here in Vegas and try to build quality to remain satisfied from day 1. I may purchase and use a smallr battery to hurry it up and hit the road and use it eventually use as a back up in backpack or cargo carrier. Good channel, Subscribed see you later.
FYI I recall a video on youtube where the OP was using an 80 watt Weller soldering iron to make QUICK solder joints on 18650's with a thin braided copper wire like what's used to de-solder joints. The trick was to only hold the tip to the battery just long enough for the solder to flow
A couple or a few seconds was all it took for a solid connection to be made that didn't damage the cell. I don't remember if he specified a type or brand of solder that he recommended for this, but a lead/tin rosin core solder with a low melting temp of 360°F should be good for this...best of luck, subscribed, and thanks for your informative, well documented, excellent videos!!!
thanks for the update I was wondering how it was holding up. there are spot welders that use a car battery, maybe that would be an option for you...
best wishes!
Thanks for the comment.. My solar panel system puts out 60V.. so the 12V battery pack would not work. I will have to get a battery-powered USB portable spot welder instead cause I can charge that at 5V with my e-bike controller..
@@noobz5056 i know people near us with spot welders!
I just remembered that I'm sure using JB Weld Professional would work it's a 2 part epoxy for metal. Sand mid rough, clean and join. I keep a large tubes handy and yea I'm sure it'll hold but give it a try let fully cure and Try to pull apart and let us know.
Exactly what product were you using?
There are adhesives made for this purpose, but they aren't cheap, and its not helpful to post a video without specifying what you were using.
I think it was MG Chemical 8331D. It turns yellow goldish after a few days of use of a battery pack 60V system. God told me that I got scammed by this company.
@noobz5056 That's odd. Did you talk to the manufacturer?
Your use case is pretty much what they indicate their product is intended for.
When you removed the adhesive, did it seem intact other than the yellowing?
It sounds like either the epoxy itself degraded or it delaminated from the substrate.
I've never used the product, but I'm aware of it, and I considered using it for the same purpose.
I would have chosen the same formulation too - the 8330 has a little better conductivity, but that's at the expense of strength, and if you're just bonding metal strips to batteries, the difference across a thin layer of adhesive is insignificant.
Epoxy is somewhat sensitive to uv, but as far as I know, the yellowing it causes is just a cosmetic effect.
What metal were you using on your strips?
Silver & copper are commonly used together, though there is definitely a galvanic effect - you can make a battery from stacks of silver dimes and pennies.
Does your battery get especially hot in operation?
I'm assuming you let the epoxy cure for the required time.
Did the loss of conductivity occur gradually, or was there a point where power dropped off really fast?
With no known cause, and your use case being pretty much what the product was made for, I would definitely talk to the manufacturer.
It *should* work, and it's kind of expensive to just eat the loss.
I think they owe you an explanation, at least.
@@Zomby_Woof Yes the adhesive was intact but after a day or two use the voltages drop/fluctuate severely when I accelerate in my scooter. Even very gentle take-off causes severe voltage fluctuation, hence lose power. And then after less than a month of use the battery lost power completely. When I disassembled the battery pack I saw the adhesive turned yellow. When I put voltmeter stick on the yellowed adhesive it reads no voltage, but if I put the stick on the cell outside of the adhesive it reads voltage. This tells me that the adhesive deteriorates completely, making it non-conductive.. I tested this on both good name brand cells (Samsung 40T) and cheap Chinese cell pack builds with same result.. There was no high running temperature on the batteries either. I was using copper bars for connecting the cells.