WangChung My thought too. It‘s so great that Mazda uses double wishbone suspension and it was cringing for me to hear criticism because of that. Never had a easier to work on car than my NA. So many 17mm bolts
A proper budget set up would be non adjustable suspension from koni or Bilstein with stiffer springs and a slightly stiffer front bar with a more track focused pad and some dot 4 fluid teamed up with r spec 205 tyres. The stock 15” rims are pretty light already. Tyres are the best performance mod u can make on an mx5
@@doctorlobsteroctopus It was an issue on both NA and NB. Both of mine had those same flimsy front sway bar brackets that are barely stiff enough for a stock bar.
@@Angel-HC the problem then becomes the front frame rails cracking due to the extra pressure the blocks push onto the rails. Maybe it's just because my Miata is rusting but that is what has happened to me. I think the big metal mounts that need to be welded on is the correct solution.
Hi Guys, love your content and keep up the good work! Few comments about the Miata chassis you might want to know: -Suspension travel is limited and these Fortune Auto coilovers do not have extendend top mounts, I would suggest to not lower the car too much or you will be riding on the bump stops all the time. Not lowering it too much also prevents bump steer and damage when a guest has an off. Not lowering it too much also helps with getting proper alignment as the stock alignment bolts do not have a massive adjustability range -You do not need a lot of sway bar in the rear, you would like to keep both rear tires planted. I would suggest you start with the softest setting in the rear and you might regret bending the stock one in the future. Some of the Honda handling tricks do not apply to this chassis due to differences in weight distribution, different driven wheels and different suspension design, keep that in mind. -Tyre setup: the Miata is well balanced, use a square tyre setup -Front sway bar mounts are very weak. You can buy reinforcement blocks to prevent the mounts from tearing off the chassis -With the sport brakes you probably want to upgrade your 7/8" master cylinder to a 15/16" master cylinder (this can be found on any NB miata from 01-05) -The shifter on the 5 speed has its own oil separate from the gearbox oil. You might want to check the shifter cup, oil and boots as part of the service you did on the previous episode.
For a budget build, you probably would've found the original smaller brakes would hold up quite well provided you feed them some quality pads. They are very capable despite their size. That is of course until you start adding more power to the Miata, at which point, yes an upgrade is a necessary item.
I am not trying to knock on the FA coils but afaik they manufactured in Taiwan, so probably in the same production line as BC Racings. As are MeisterR and many other coilovers. Obviously they put some extra R&D into their coilovers but the technology for the valving will be more or less the same. And after some googling I realised the FA's 510 are 2k USD. For that amount of money you can get a set of XIDA or FM FOX coilovers, which are regarded as the best Miata coilovers money can buy safe some big bucks Penske etc.
They've used FA on all their builds.@@RICKster859 But I agree with you, if they had partnerships with 949racing or Flyin' Miata, then you already know they'd be running those! I will say though that the FA 510 series looks like a damper that far exceeds BC Racing's 0 to 1900$ price bracket in quality. The dampening spring rate sweep of the 510 series damper (digressive) is of better quality for the price. They go a little bit into details on explaining the piston design is what allows it for them. But nonetheless, imo I'd rather see either extended top hats on the rears or helper springs on both F & R in order to really consider them more as a purchase. I understand that the price you're paying for with coilovers is really going towards the quality of the dampers received. But if they only had thrown in those extra things to the package, then I could be certain they were really dedicating R&D to the Miata chassis rather than just a 510 series for a wide range of cars. I'm sure they're good coilovers but you'll want to atleast add the extended top hats in the rear if you're running low heights. For 2k$, It would be a good value if they included the dampers they come with plus an extended top hat in the rear at least, and probably helper springs for front and rear. Then they'd be very competitive in the market for decently educated miata track day enthusiasts. =) Especially with some more details of dedication to R&D on the Miata chassis specifically. Them stating that they did this or that and made sure the rear has a longer stroke compared to other coilovers on the market + what I said earlier is really all that is needed to be said and I'd be more interested in them personally.
Me: Budget build, replace broken/faulty parts with right ones. Speed Academy: Budget build, spend $12,973.45 in "Budget parts" coil overs and big brake kit, full exhaust, intake, big radiator, lightweight wheels, all bushings,...
yossi774 you don’t need all that to last out a track day, all you need is brake pads, rotors, and some really good brake fluid. Racing a car stock is some of the most fun I’ve ever had
At a track like TMP, I honestly don't think you guys would have ever found the stock brakes inadequate. But, those StopTech rotors and sport calipers sure are sexy, and more braking is never a bad thing. As far as sway bars, it seems to be a preference thing with these cars. I have the 16mm Racing Beat rear (soft setting) on mine with their tubular front bar and she loves to rotate. I like a looser rear and more planted front so it's fine for me, but others that have driven my car at autox think it's twitchy. But I also have fairly soft springs so the sway bars interact with the car differently. A really popular setup is a large front bar and the 14mm bar from the Mazdaspeed Miata. I think that Eibach bar on the stiffest setting might surprise you with the tail happiness. But, at least you have some adjustment to dial that in. Looking forward to the next one. -Colorado Miata Guy
Hi guys, the base adjustment on a coil over isn't actually for setting your ride height, it's for setting the height you car hits it's bump stops. Ideally so that none of you suspensions or wheels hit anything. Ps your show is great, keep up the good work.
I would be very very surprised if those pads aren't enough at TMP with R comps and stock BP power. You might find you pick up the inside rear on corner exit and unlock the torsen with that much rear sway. You'll need to adjust the rear calipers often for best pedal feel and especially after a track day. When it feels like you need to re bleed them them they need adjustment and the parking brake slack will amplify that.
@@speedacademy you can't get a good adjustment until the pads are bedded in. I've actually used the hand brake as a bias adjustment on track. If there was 4 clicks of nothing on the park cable I would leave it on the 3rd click. There are two schools of adjustment, one is to adjust them like a drum brake. Turned in where you can't turn the rotor with the hand brake off by hand and the back off to a very slight drag. This always gave the best pedal feel imo but wouldn't maintain itself for long. I feel like it gave even application right to left but gave unequal park brake application when being a hooligan...during closed course events obviously. The other is to pull the hand brake 2/3rds up and adjust them until they just get like 10mm bolt snug and release the park brake. #rambletron
Those rear e brake adjusters are odd indeed..I thought I was supposed to be rotating it out, didn't realize it was splined so I destroyed all the splines..LOL. Cars coming together nicely, can't wait to see how she do!
When you took that wheel off the Miata I thought it was a bare wheel hub at first😂 I know it’s a small light car and all but holy $h!t those brakes were tiny!
I've been looking to upgrade my brakes on my NB1 as well. Can you guys post the exact parts used (rotors, calipers, pads)? Or do you post build details on your website? Thanks!
Looking good! That car is going to be on the tail-happy side for sure with that rear bar. I can't wait to see you guys turn some laps. I'm hoping to get lucky enough to be invited to the challenge!
As others have said, ARB mounts RB blocks are a must. Good choice on the spring rates :) Btw, rear swaybar on stiffest is pretty bad, rear lacks in droop and that makes it even worse. I've raised the rear a little more instead, after putting my FM bar back to softest.
What about the supposedly improved brake pedal feeling? That much larger calipers are gonna drink a whole lot more fluid, I would expect a much longer and less sporty pedal feel (although maybe more precise)
Can't wait to start seeing people do laps in this car! Something to think about, depending on the coilover spring rates you might want to soften the rear swaybar. I had the eibach swaybar kit on my Miata at TMP with Tein Flex coilovers. The rear bar was so stiff that it was lifting the inside rear wheel through bumpy corners and the torsen was acting as an open diff since the one wheel was in the air. I went back to the stock bar and it fixed the issue. Try different settings if possible 👍
What about angle? If you add angle via cut knuckles plan on not using that front swat bar. At that point you NEED 0 offset wheels and you'll still rub on the control arm.
another big upgrade for brake pedal feel on the miata, is making sure you have the biggest possible brake master. if the one on your stock car is not the same size as the one on the sport brake equipped cars.. swap it :)
@@lb9gta307 Cause its WAY faster on track, about 1s. Everything is better really, drop the pressures and profit. Definitely no stretch on 7s btw, its a balloon. On 8s, 205s are exactly flush. Thats what you want, its how most racecars and supercars are set-up from factory.
@@WilliamLevesqueineX lmao I have 205s on 7" wheels on my daily right now. There's definitly some stretch. The manufacturer put 225s on those wheels. I also have 8" wheels on my other car with 245s (factory wheel with factory tire size) which is essentially square.
I wonder how long it will take them to figure out why Mazda put such a small sway bar on the rear. It’s because they knew what they were doing. Most people leave the stock one on or remove it entirely. You don’t want a stiff away bar on the back of these NB’s. Also, if they removed the a-arm bolt, they could have removed the old struts much easier instead of taking the whole suspension apart.
Your gonna regret losing that stock tear bar lol must of ya that track a Miata either run no rear or the stock rear with a even larger front sway bar then that specially with that much rear spring .. from what I can tell your rear is way too stiff spec Miatas run 12.5k front and 7.1k rear
Lots of guys have the MSM rear bar. I have fairly soft springs from Flyin Miata, but my Racing Beat 16mm bar on soft setting feels fine. Probably going to be different with higher spring rates, but I think that bar on it's softest setting will give a nice balance to the car. And if not they can always order an MSM one. Stock or no rear bar sounds like more rear grip than I want to have with a stock engine car.
Spec Miatas arent really an example to follow specifically. 800/500 rates are good, thats what baseline XIDAs have. I'd probably run a little stiffer than that still if my shocks were up to it (600/400 with Koni Sports atm). Depends on your ARBs setup too, tyres, aero, etc.
I can guarantee no one fast is raising their engine. The oil pan is above the subframe with the stock mounts. I run the BFW 1/2" drop mounts and the pan is level with the subframe. My front pinch weld height is 4.25" and I sleep like a baby.
Love your channel. I also met your buddy ken at an autcross event.(super cool guy!) And he was co driving a Miata also . Maybe see you guys at a autcross event with this car ?
Perhaps this ship has sailed, but those calipers aren't painted from the factory, so they'll turn rusty in only a few days - at least, the Centric calipers that I have for my NA did that
What do you guys think of drilled rotors?? On my turbo galant vr4 I have cracked one and I'm not sure if it's worth trying a drilled rotor or just sticking to slotted..... stop tech is one of my options tho!
Does the mazda master cylimder need to be swapped out for the sport one? Or ha e you found them to be the same? I did an se tiburon brakes, five lug swap, and ss lines on my ela tea gt back in the day and found pedal travel to be very off. I should have picked up the tiburon master to go with it.
You do not need larger brakes on a Miata. Not unless you are going for serious horsepower. With larger brakes, you are making the car slower by adding unnecessary weigh. Brake less, keep momentum up.
@@TheZohanLohan Thanks. I was going to go with an OEM 14mm Integra rear sway bar because the x brace stiffens up the rear quite a bit but everyone I've talked to says to still go with a thicker rear sway bar so I probably will.
Have you finished yet? What's taking so long? Come on guys. I've seen pestilent pygmies work faster. ;-) Great project can't wait for the next episode. Greetings from the land of fun and sun, without the fun. Australia (where everything is banned).
@@speedacademy What I posted would be a budget build you can race. Koni with springs is still around $800 just for parts. Coilovers also put you into another class of racing - not exactly a "budget" build. If I was going to go coilover it would be Ohlins hands down. They have been proven and around since 1976.
You should have just disconnected the front upper control arm. That makes the suspension install waaay easier. No messing with the balljoints.
WangChung My thought too. It‘s so great that Mazda uses double wishbone suspension and it was cringing for me to hear criticism because of that.
Never had a easier to work on car than my NA. So many 17mm bolts
Yes, all you have to do is remove the "long bolt" (inner) from the upper control arm and the shock practically falls out.
A proper budget set up would be non adjustable suspension from koni or Bilstein with stiffer springs and a slightly stiffer front bar with a more track focused pad and some dot 4 fluid teamed up with r spec 205 tyres. The stock 15” rims are pretty light already. Tyres are the best performance mod u can make on an mx5
Agreed. Flyin miata offers a koni/springs/sway bar package that works great and saves about $500 vs. the coilovers used here.
Better stiffen up the front sway bar mounts. They will crack with thicker swaybars.
I second this. Racing Beat makes a great sway bar block kit.
I thought that was only an NA issue.
@@doctorlobsteroctopus It was an issue on both NA and NB. Both of mine had those same flimsy front sway bar brackets that are barely stiff enough for a stock bar.
+1, I run the RB blocks.
@@Angel-HC the problem then becomes the front frame rails cracking due to the extra pressure the blocks push onto the rails. Maybe it's just because my Miata is rusting but that is what has happened to me. I think the big metal mounts that need to be welded on is the correct solution.
Make Linus, Lew and Dave2D your first racers. They are tech youtubers in Canada.
We’ll look em up
oh that would be hilarious to see Linus drive around a track
#makelinusdrive
YES you mean Linus from lions tech tips right?! That would be EPIC, I wonder if he can drive stick though
his little pink civic is a 5 speed @alaric
If the new wheels aren't 15's, we riot!
Hi Guys, love your content and keep up the good work!
Few comments about the Miata chassis you might want to know:
-Suspension travel is limited and these Fortune Auto coilovers do not have extendend top mounts, I would suggest to not lower the car too much or you will be riding on the bump stops all the time. Not lowering it too much also prevents bump steer and damage when a guest has an off. Not lowering it too much also helps with getting proper alignment as the stock alignment bolts do not have a massive adjustability range
-You do not need a lot of sway bar in the rear, you would like to keep both rear tires planted. I would suggest you start with the softest setting in the rear and you might regret bending the stock one in the future. Some of the Honda handling tricks do not apply to this chassis due to differences in weight distribution, different driven wheels and different suspension design, keep that in mind.
-Tyre setup: the Miata is well balanced, use a square tyre setup
-Front sway bar mounts are very weak. You can buy reinforcement blocks to prevent the mounts from tearing off the chassis
-With the sport brakes you probably want to upgrade your 7/8" master cylinder to a 15/16" master cylinder (this can be found on any NB miata from 01-05)
-The shifter on the 5 speed has its own oil separate from the gearbox oil. You might want to check the shifter cup, oil and boots as part of the service you did on the previous episode.
you gotta find someone with a super Canadian accent to say "a CZcams Star In A Reasonably-Priced Car..."
OMGGG i miss top gear
rich DEBOSS for sure! thing is he wouldn't fit LOL
For a budget build, you probably would've found the original smaller brakes would hold up quite well provided you feed them some quality pads. They are very capable despite their size. That is of course until you start adding more power to the Miata, at which point, yes an upgrade is a necessary item.
Love your channel! I have a miata after a few months of watching your content
@@silversixxx Awesome to hear, thank you :-)
budget build with a 2000$USD coilover kit? i dont call this budget...
@@roha2317 Koni yellow + Ground Control kit IS a race budget build suspension
All relative, but I agree
$20k is A budget.
@@Apekxor Or DIY bilsteins
Next episode, We search the junkyard for a stock Miata rear sway bar because that's what works best .🤣🤣🤣
Or just remove the sway bar all together
It is still great to have stiff rear sway bar for oversteer
Getting the deboss guys would be cool.
Theyre on the list!
Those Fortune Auto shocks looks and sounds better put together than the BC ones. 👀
I am not trying to knock on the FA coils but afaik they manufactured in Taiwan, so probably in the same production line as BC Racings. As are MeisterR and many other coilovers. Obviously they put some extra R&D into their coilovers but the technology for the valving will be more or less the same. And after some googling I realised the FA's 510 are 2k USD. For that amount of money you can get a set of XIDA or FM FOX coilovers, which are regarded as the best Miata coilovers money can buy safe some big bucks Penske etc.
They've used FA on all their builds.@@RICKster859 But I agree with you, if they had partnerships with 949racing or Flyin' Miata, then you already know they'd be running those!
I will say though that the FA 510 series looks like a damper that far exceeds BC Racing's 0 to 1900$ price bracket in quality. The dampening spring rate sweep of the 510 series damper (digressive) is of better quality for the price. They go a little bit into details on explaining the piston design is what allows it for them. But nonetheless, imo I'd rather see either extended top hats on the rears or helper springs on both F & R in order to really consider them more as a purchase.
I understand that the price you're paying for with coilovers is really going towards the quality of the dampers received. But if they only had thrown in those extra things to the package, then I could be certain they were really dedicating R&D to the Miata chassis rather than just a 510 series for a wide range of cars. I'm sure they're good coilovers but you'll want to atleast add the extended top hats in the rear if you're running low heights.
For 2k$, It would be a good value if they included the dampers they come with plus an extended top hat in the rear at least, and probably helper springs for front and rear. Then they'd be very competitive in the market for decently educated miata track day enthusiasts. =) Especially with some more details of dedication to R&D on the Miata chassis specifically. Them stating that they did this or that and made sure the rear has a longer stroke compared to other coilovers on the market + what I said earlier is really all that is needed to be said and I'd be more interested in them personally.
Me: Budget build, replace broken/faulty parts with right ones.
Speed Academy: Budget build, spend $12,973.45 in "Budget parts" coil overs and big brake kit, full exhaust, intake, big radiator, lightweight wheels, all bushings,...
It's a track car so it should last more than two laps
yossi774 you don’t need all that to last out a track day, all you need is brake pads, rotors, and some really good brake fluid. Racing a car stock is some of the most fun I’ve ever had
Long bolt method for miata for front suspension
At a track like TMP, I honestly don't think you guys would have ever found the stock brakes inadequate. But, those StopTech rotors and sport calipers sure are sexy, and more braking is never a bad thing.
As far as sway bars, it seems to be a preference thing with these cars. I have the 16mm Racing Beat rear (soft setting) on mine with their tubular front bar and she loves to rotate. I like a looser rear and more planted front so it's fine for me, but others that have driven my car at autox think it's twitchy. But I also have fairly soft springs so the sway bars interact with the car differently. A really popular setup is a large front bar and the 14mm bar from the Mazdaspeed Miata. I think that Eibach bar on the stiffest setting might surprise you with the tail happiness. But, at least you have some adjustment to dial that in. Looking forward to the next one.
-Colorado Miata Guy
Hi guys, the base adjustment on a coil over isn't actually for setting your ride height, it's for setting the height you car hits it's bump stops. Ideally so that none of you suspensions or wheels hit anything.
Ps your show is great, keep up the good work.
I would be very very surprised if those pads aren't enough at TMP with R comps and stock BP power.
You might find you pick up the inside rear on corner exit and unlock the torsen with that much rear sway.
You'll need to adjust the rear calipers often for best pedal feel and especially after a track day. When it feels like you need to re bleed them them they need adjustment and the parking brake slack will amplify that.
Good pointer on the adjustment. Currently the parking brake does nothing.
@@speedacademy you can't get a good adjustment until the pads are bedded in. I've actually used the hand brake as a bias adjustment on track. If there was 4 clicks of nothing on the park cable I would leave it on the 3rd click.
There are two schools of adjustment, one is to adjust them like a drum brake. Turned in where you can't turn the rotor with the hand brake off by hand and the back off to a very slight drag. This always gave the best pedal feel imo but wouldn't maintain itself for long. I feel like it gave even application right to left but gave unequal park brake application when being a hooligan...during closed course events obviously.
The other is to pull the hand brake 2/3rds up and adjust them until they just get like 10mm bolt snug and release the park brake.
#rambletron
I want to drive it!
It would be cool to see a spec e30 driver put a lap down
Ben Freedman I agree
Why aren't you guys doing the energy suspension bushing kit??? Those coilovers and sway bars with stock bushings makes no sense
They'll get a little time out of the rubber bushings. Then it'll be like driving on ice lol
For that front suspension......next time google "the long bolt method". Much easier.
The bolt was SO rusted it wouldnt come out!
@@speedacademy, that's a shame. It's a really easy way to change out the front suspension. Have fun with the build!
Those rear e brake adjusters are odd indeed..I thought I was supposed to be rotating it out, didn't realize it was splined so I destroyed all the splines..LOL. Cars coming together nicely, can't wait to see how she do!
Yeah, Rhett and Link would be great guests for this.
Easy now with the budget...
@ 2k coilovers... Budget??
@ well aren't you a disillusioned wanker.
Why "maximum over-steer"? What's the purpose of this car?
If you put spring compressors on the stock shocks you can lift them up high enough to not have to drop the lower A arm
Can you guys do a video on alignment and ride height?
Gonna guess the wheels before the reveal - Konig? Maybe Freeform 15"; the silver ones would look pretty clean
agreed!
ps: nice FiST :)
Still my favorite channel. Also, classic response of 'The answer is always Miata'
When you took that wheel off the Miata I thought it was a bare wheel hub at first😂 I know it’s a small light car and all but holy $h!t those brakes were tiny!
Hope u guys can get this baby under 2000lbs, and maybe a turbo can fit into the budget hmm?
For the amount they have already spent in this 'budget' build I'm sure they can afford a turbo kit
I've been looking to upgrade my brakes on my NB1 as well. Can you guys post the exact parts used (rotors, calipers, pads)? Or do you post build details on your website? Thanks!
Looking good! That car is going to be on the tail-happy side for sure with that rear bar. I can't wait to see you guys turn some laps. I'm hoping to get lucky enough to be invited to the challenge!
Awesome to see this Miata! Like! Will be watching all the videos in the series here from Vancouver BC :)
Just noticed those old wheels are the same setup a friend had on his Fit. Same size and everything, just need to be powder coated white.
As others have said, ARB mounts RB blocks are a must. Good choice on the spring rates :)
Btw, rear swaybar on stiffest is pretty bad, rear lacks in droop and that makes it even worse. I've raised the rear a little more instead, after putting my FM bar back to softest.
You guys have a lot of insight to come up with the concept for this video.
What about the supposedly improved brake pedal feeling? That much larger calipers are gonna drink a whole lot more fluid, I would expect a much longer and less sporty pedal feel (although maybe more precise)
Can't wait to start seeing people do laps in this car! Something to think about, depending on the coilover spring rates you might want to soften the rear swaybar. I had the eibach swaybar kit on my Miata at TMP with Tein Flex coilovers. The rear bar was so stiff that it was lifting the inside rear wheel through bumpy corners and the torsen was acting as an open diff since the one wheel was in the air. I went back to the stock bar and it fixed the issue. Try different settings if possible 👍
Thanks for the heads up.
What rtosoccerplayer said.
What about angle? If you add angle via cut knuckles plan on not using that front swat bar. At that point you NEED 0 offset wheels and you'll still rub on the control arm.
another big upgrade for brake pedal feel on the miata, is making sure you have the biggest possible brake master. if the one on your stock car is not the same size as the one on the sport brake equipped cars.. swap it :)
The mods you do in an episode are what I can do in a year 😂
Need to replace those wheels ASAP!
Salut! Did I ear a bit of french there? Yes sir. Love the wrenching you guys do. Question: why are you removing the backplates?
I hope you guys are going to run a 15x8 rim 205 50 15? Proper miata fitment
agreed! previous owner put 225's on my NA and it took a damn turbo to be able to cut those grippybois loose
An 8" wheel just seems exessive for a 205. They have a slight stretch on a 7". Why bother with the extra rotating mass?
@@lb9gta307 Cause its WAY faster on track, about 1s. Everything is better really, drop the pressures and profit.
Definitely no stretch on 7s btw, its a balloon. On 8s, 205s are exactly flush. Thats what you want, its how most racecars and supercars are set-up from factory.
@@WilliamLevesqueineX lmao I have 205s on 7" wheels on my daily right now. There's definitly some stretch. The manufacturer put 225s on those wheels. I also have 8" wheels on my other car with 245s (factory wheel with factory tire size) which is essentially square.
@@lb9gta307 Are we talking Miata (i.e. 15s) or something else ? Cause if so you're wrong :P
I guess you will be fitting a roll bar? Looking forward to more updates.
My budget < Speed Academy budget 😁
Great stuff guys! Can't wait to see the wheels and tires!
I see a Miata, I upvote.
I wonder how long it will take them to figure out why Mazda put such a small sway bar on the rear. It’s because they knew what they were doing. Most people leave the stock one on or remove it entirely. You don’t want a stiff away bar on the back of these NB’s. Also, if they removed the a-arm bolt, they could have removed the old struts much easier instead of taking the whole suspension apart.
im just waiting for a civic vs miata track day when this car is done
Your gonna regret losing that stock tear bar lol must of ya that track a Miata either run no rear or the stock rear with a even larger front sway bar then that specially with that much rear spring .. from what I can tell your rear is way too stiff spec Miatas run 12.5k front and 7.1k rear
Lots of guys have the MSM rear bar. I have fairly soft springs from Flyin Miata, but my Racing Beat 16mm bar on soft setting feels fine. Probably going to be different with higher spring rates, but I think that bar on it's softest setting will give a nice balance to the car. And if not they can always order an MSM one. Stock or no rear bar sounds like more rear grip than I want to have with a stock engine car.
Spec Miatas arent really an example to follow specifically.
800/500 rates are good, thats what baseline XIDAs have. I'd probably run a little stiffer than that still if my shocks were up to it (600/400 with Koni Sports atm). Depends on your ARBs setup too, tyres, aero, etc.
my gen 6 510 was bought a few months before they rolled out with the gen 7, sad story
Watch that oil pan! The 1.8 oil pan sits very low, Miata guys usually put shims to raise the engine slightly when they slam one
I can guarantee no one fast is raising their engine.
The oil pan is above the subframe with the stock mounts. I run the BFW 1/2" drop mounts and the pan is level with the subframe.
My front pinch weld height is 4.25" and I sleep like a baby.
Love your channel. I also met your buddy ken at an autcross event.(super cool guy!) And he was co driving a Miata also . Maybe see you guys at a autcross event with this car ?
What's the budget?
Perhaps this ship has sailed, but those calipers aren't painted from the factory, so they'll turn rusty in only a few days - at least, the Centric calipers that I have for my NA did that
I came because I read budget in the title but then I clicked on the first link and saw that the clovers are $2,000
Hi guys, I can't your mention of e-manuals online discount code. Please share again
Can't wait to rip some laps in this thing!! Patreon in a reasonably priced race car!
Yes! Excited to have you drive it.
Wow that rear end is going to be all over the place.
What do you guys think of drilled rotors?? On my turbo galant vr4 I have cracked one and I'm not sure if it's worth trying a drilled rotor or just sticking to slotted..... stop tech is one of my options tho!
Those Eibach anti-roll bars look really great. love that color lol. BTW won't you guys do the alignment before the first track test?
If your not going to use your old junk. Get out the zip wheel and cut the springs. But my Tein fronts in ... in 45 minutes. Super easy
Liking those coil overs and brakes, Pse. moar abandoned STI 🤣🤙
I just hope you cleaned the hub faces before the new rotors went on
Would love to go there to drive the miata! Too bad I am 11.000km away.
Tourism Board of Canada should pay you guys
good stuff!! can't wait to see where this goes
You loosened the lower ball joint and those alignment LCA bolts when you can simply remove the one long UCA bolt and be done with it...
but you can just undo the front upper control arm on the body side and bend and pry the entire suspension assembly down to remove the front strut lol
When are you guys going to install the revel coilovers?
What song is at 0:16? For the intro?
Wait, would a softer setting at the rear give you move oversteer when a larger is mounted in the front?
Stiffer rear always makes a car more tail happy. Some of the FWD Honda folks run no front sway bar to get the rear end to rotate easier.
Does the mazda master cylimder need to be swapped out for the sport one? Or ha e you found them to be the same?
I did an se tiburon brakes, five lug swap, and ss lines on my ela tea gt back in the day and found pedal travel to be very off. I should have picked up the tiburon master to go with it.
We’re going to find out! If we need to swap it we will
No energy suspension bushings?
The stiffer you make the suspension, the more you expose the Miata wet noodle chassis.
Be Careful!
"fixing" one of the better balanced cars.
Is there a part list available?
Which is it? Tweety bird or Big Bird yellow? I need to know the right paint code for my paint on horsepower application!! 😱
LOL We’re still trying to figure it out!
Throw an LS in it guys!!
Hate it or love it. GGG G-unit!
MIATAAAAAAA
Anti Roll Noodle. Makes me think I need to change my NA's roll bar
That height will look better w 15”
Nice!!
You do not need larger brakes on a Miata. Not unless you are going for serious horsepower. With larger brakes, you are making the car slower by adding unnecessary weigh. Brake less, keep momentum up.
Nice. Subbed!
Long bolt method would have been much easier
What are good sway bar sizes for an ek hatch? I have a rear x brace, front 3 point strut bar, and 10k f/6k r springs.
I ran 8k/6k springs
Progress 22mm rear
Civic si 22mm front
Works great
@@TheZohanLohan Thanks. I was going to go with an OEM 14mm Integra rear sway bar because the x brace stiffens up the rear quite a bit but everyone I've talked to says to still go with a thicker rear sway bar so I probably will.
Aren't those rotors on backwards?
7:20 there's an R sticker there on the rotor. Same thing at 11:28 for the rear.
@@Patrick94GSR Yea you're right thats weird, usually the vanes match the slotting
Bring The Straight Pipes in to drive it
brake hoses not lines
Can't wait to see this miata rippin' tec!
I wouldn’t really consider this a budget build
Have you finished yet? What's taking so long? Come on guys. I've seen pestilent pygmies work faster. ;-) Great project can't wait for the next episode. Greetings from the land of fun and sun, without the fun. Australia (where everything is banned).
I prefer Ling Long to Nangkang.....quality tyres....haha
I miss the s2000 :(
9:11
6:09. - comme ça
let me guess, the tires are gonna be Nankang's
Coilovers - needs rebuilding constantly. Waste of cash. Koni yellows and spring swap would be the best option for a street ride.
This is a track car...
@@speedacademy What I posted would be a budget build you can race. Koni with springs is still around $800 just for parts. Coilovers also put you into another class of racing - not exactly a "budget" build. If I was going to go coilover it would be Ohlins hands down. They have been proven and around since 1976.