When I have a bolt like the shift bolt I put a little piece of paper or a blade of grass in my socket and then push the bolt in trapping it in the socket tight enough to hold it in till I get the threads started. Helps to keep the frustration level down from dropping a bolt into never never land.
Thank you very much for the great information. I have a question on one of your videos for the water pump housing you applied (3M 847). Also do you feel the liquid gasket material is better than the one that came in the kit?. Thank you again
Brandon, I was wondering if you could tell me where you special ordered the gasket for the shift rod connector. I’ve been looking but haven’t had any luck. Thanks.
I'm sorry Brandon for the confusion of my question. In this video you used 3M 847 to seal the pump housing. Then in the video how to rebuild / reseal 9.5 hp lower unit you used permatex ultra black to seal the pump housing. And in that video you said if you don't use that stuff even though not called for in the manual oftentimes the pump won't pump. and I was wondering which product would be best.
Ok, here comes a crazy question, I wonder if you can help?! I have a 1956 QD-17, 10hp Seahorse and was riding it on the lake a few weeks back. We have a weedy bay, so the prop gets weedy on the way out. When I got to clear water, I slipped it into neutral and then into reverse, to try and work the weeds off the prop. Well, I probably changed gears too quickly through neutral. I heard some kind of 'uncoiling' noise, then the motor stalled. The gear shifter still works, and when it is in neutral, the prop spins freely. But, in either forward or reverse, the prop is frozen. The flywheel is always frozen. Any ideas?
maybe you did this and I didn't see it, but did you put gasket sealer when screwing on the lower unit? I'm not sure why the special order gasket for the shift rod cover plate is important, could you just use gasket maker? good video
Hey man I appreciate your videos! They are very helpful, but can you give me the exact link of those 3 gaskets you bought separate from the water pump kit?
I have a 1958 18 hp. SeaHorse she seems to slip outta gear @ top speed & rev’s up, if I back outta the throttle she does ok. Gear oil level is fine. Any idea why this happens?
Im using the shift handle, its like theshift handle doesnt push up or down far enough to engage it into gear. But. If i remove the handle and do it 'with out the factory stops' it will go into F, N, R.
@@TheBrianhmullins you need to adjust how much movement there is at the shifter handle. There is a screw that goes through part of the shifter handle that allows you to adjust how for the shifter travels.
Well, I was wondering why I did not have much water pumping out the outlet, and over time it develops heat on the lower unit. I opened, water pump was okay, but the drive shaft is almost frozen.
@BrandonsGarage One final question. The skeg looks like it was welded and I would like to replace it. Can I just replace the skeg? If so, any idea what the part number is? The parts manual just has a number for the whole assembly.
@BrandonsGarage Hey! I recently acquired a ‘62 10hp seahorse that I’m feeling a little intimidated by. I’ve been reading around and haven’t found much literature, and I’ve never touched boat motors before. Are you open to questions, and if so have somewhere I can message you?
How about another video on getting a driveshaft, a waterpipe and a shiftrod in place while holding the gearbox in one hand and a flashlight in the other and your third and forth hands trying to place the waterpipe and shiftrod. Two days and still working on it.
Put the gearcase in, ignoring all alighnment, just making sure the drive shaft and crank shaft are in the same position ready to be mated. Push the gearcase shift rod down, and move the shifter into forward. Then, youll only have to worry about the water tube. onece its in and you have some screw in, you can get some needle nose and start trying to get the shift rods aligned through the side hole
@@BrandonsGarage That's a bummer 😕. I like your videos man, you do a nice job. Sometimes I need to see a little more detail that maybe gets edited out but it's all good 👍
When I have a bolt like the shift bolt I put a little piece of paper or a blade of grass in my socket and then push the bolt in trapping it in the socket tight enough to hold it in till I get the threads started. Helps to keep the frustration level down from dropping a bolt into never never land.
Great video - so much info. I know this takes a lot of work - I watch all the commercials.
Thank you for your help 🙏 😊
Thank you very much for the great information. I have a question on one of your videos for the water pump housing you applied (3M 847). Also do you feel the liquid gasket material is better than the one that came in the kit?. Thank you again
In the kit only comes molly lube for the driveshaft splines. Everything else needs to be purchased separately.
Can you use the Johnson 0508235 Gasket sealing compound and the 3m 847
Brandon, I was wondering if you could tell me where you special ordered the gasket for the shift rod connector. I’ve been looking but haven’t had any luck. Thanks.
boats.net
easy peasy
very nice much like the 9.5 box
They all are.
Problem is, people new to the scene, don't know the process is the same for a 5.5, 7.7, 9.6, 10, or 15 hp.
(older ones anyway)
I'm sorry Brandon for the confusion of my question. In this video you used 3M 847 to seal the pump housing. Then in the video how to rebuild / reseal 9.5 hp lower unit you used permatex ultra black to seal the pump housing. And in that video you said if you don't use that stuff even though not called for in the manual oftentimes the pump won't pump. and I was wondering which product would be best.
3M 847 is the best stuff. It is a direct replacement for OMC Adhesive M
what is that for the collar piece that fits into the water pump housing and exhaust housing? what does it do??
I think it creates a seal between the exhaust gases and the cooling water.
Not all engines have this exactly, some use seals.
Ok, here comes a crazy question, I wonder if you can help?! I have a 1956 QD-17, 10hp Seahorse and was riding it on the lake a few weeks back. We have a weedy bay, so the prop gets weedy on the way out. When I got to clear water, I slipped it into neutral and then into reverse, to try and work the weeds off the prop. Well, I probably changed gears too quickly through neutral. I heard some kind of 'uncoiling' noise, then the motor stalled. The gear shifter still works, and when it is in neutral, the prop spins freely. But, in either forward or reverse, the prop is frozen. The flywheel is always frozen. Any ideas?
maybe you did this and I didn't see it, but did you put gasket sealer when screwing on the lower unit? I'm not sure why the special order gasket for the shift rod cover plate is important, could you just use gasket maker? good video
How did you remove the lower housing ? I see no bolts when lowering bottom housing as they show in other videos. I have a 1958 Johnson 7 1/2. Thanks.
For that engine, you have to remove the powerhead to get the shift rod disconnected.
Hey man I appreciate your videos! They are very helpful, but can you give me the exact link of those 3 gaskets you bought separate from the water pump kit?
What engine do you have, or, what is your model number? (Ill look them up)
@@BrandonsGarage it's the same exact one in your video 1958 johnson 10 hp
Where did the gasket go?
What are the names of the 3 o-rings that you had to order separately cause they don't come with the kit?
I have a 1958 18 hp. SeaHorse she seems to slip outta gear @ top speed & rev’s up, if I back outta the throttle she does ok. Gear oil level is fine. Any idea why this happens?
Worn clutch dog in the lower is the most common reason.
Hey Brandon. By chance do you know how to adjust the gear box shift lever? My seahorse level does not engage properly.
have a remote control on this motor? (steering wheel/controls by wheel)
Or are you using the shift handle and tiller steering?
Im using the shift handle, its like theshift handle doesnt push up or down far enough to engage it into gear. But. If i remove the handle and do it 'with out the factory stops' it will go into F, N, R.
@@TheBrianhmullins you need to adjust how much movement there is at the shifter handle. There is a screw that goes through part of the shifter handle that allows you to adjust how for the shifter travels.
Well, I was wondering why I did not have much water pumping out the outlet, and over time it develops heat on the lower unit. I opened, water pump was okay, but the drive shaft is almost frozen.
did you figure it out i have same issue
Brandon, I have a 1958 FD-11 18 hp. The water pump doesn't have a gasket. Do you put sealant compound on the metal plate?
Yes! Both sides
@BrandonsGarage One final question. The skeg looks like it was welded and I would like to replace it. Can I just replace the skeg? If so, any idea what the part number is? The parts manual just has a number for the whole assembly.
hello, can you please tell me where it is I can buy this pump, or kit,, cant seem to find it
You can buy them from your local Bombardier Recreational Products (BRP) dealer or marineengine.com
@BrandonsGarage Hey! I recently acquired a ‘62 10hp seahorse that I’m feeling a little intimidated by. I’ve been reading around and haven’t found much literature, and I’ve never touched boat motors before. Are you open to questions, and if so have somewhere I can message you?
How about another video on getting a driveshaft, a waterpipe and a shiftrod in place while holding the gearbox in one hand and a flashlight in the other and your third and forth hands trying to place the waterpipe and shiftrod. Two days and still working on it.
Put the gearcase in, ignoring all alighnment, just making sure the drive shaft and crank shaft are in the same position ready to be mated.
Push the gearcase shift rod down, and move the shifter into forward.
Then, youll only have to worry about the water tube.
onece its in and you have some screw in, you can get some needle nose and start trying to get the shift rods aligned through the side hole
yes i
like the old 9,5 ///18 20 //40 hp from the 60 s working on a 15 hp 77 model
well a 77 15 hp is much different
@@BrandonsGarage yes 9.9 an 15////// 74 to 80 same shape
prop pin 307949 yes ??????
at 11.22 done that plenty
This one guy swears up and down that you have to take the powerhead off but it was a 7.5. Is that true? Doesn't seem right
I believe you do for the 5.5 and 7.5 HP
@@BrandonsGarage That's a bummer 😕. I like your videos man, you do a nice job. Sometimes I need to see a little more detail that maybe gets edited out but it's all good 👍