in this video I want to show you how mod cheap 72v 40ah battery into a powerful 72v 40ah battery, I hope you will enjoy this video and always be safe đ
I wonât lie, the soldering tip incident at the end of the video made me laugh đ Thanks for posting this video brother. I really like your content and your no BS reviews/ tutorials.
Awesome video good technical advice i feel, keep these videos coming they really help me be brave enough to tackle my DIY build even though im technically inclined , watching you alter energy sources on this level is very inspiring.
It you get a Bluetooth bms on those batteries then you and or your customers can monitor there cell balance and help keep that battery living longer .. I found some new bms on Amazon and there cheep enough plus have everything we need so testing 2 right now and as far as I can see there perfect for our use.
Rate you for what u do to ur build man. I wish I done electrics years ago these ebikes then would be a doddle. Like I showed you on Facebook an ANT BMS would be a wikid upgrade to that battery. Good stuff đ
Yeah I would love to have that bms my wife just recently landed a good job to take up the slack so now I'll be able to grab one for me and my kids bike
Jeez bro you probably save $1000 with that battery mod which took 10 hours where we gona earn 100 bucks a hour!! I salute you man you know your stuff I Will probably watch this video 10 times and attempt my battery mod when i get the same battery.only downside in uk is our taxes and vat on imports but still a saving.
I found a link to a 0-5v (non-hall) thumb throttle e-brake specifically for your Sabvoton controller. You may already have one but if its hall sensor (0.8v-4.2v) itâs possible it wont work because there is no calibration for it like the throttle has. So a hall sensor 0.8v e-brake might create a fault as soon as you turn on the controller. But if you have a 0-5v thumb throttle it should work. When you set ebrake throttle, it no longer activates regen from the brake lever, but you will be able ro set max regen higher because you will have variable regen. I assume throttle release regen will still stay the same and ebrake throttle will just add to that. I can say without ever using it that its best suited to those who want more interaction, more control, more aggressive regen. But for passive ride the the basic two stage from mild throttle release and moderate brake activated regen is going to be more casual. If can only be set to ebrake throttle from the PC app, and must have the right version, which is available from Siaecosys. Iâll post the Aliexpress link below because its going to be hiding in the spam folder. Lol
This feature gave me the idea of a rear brake hydraulic lever with the first 30-50% travel being creating a 0-5v signal and then the hydraulic kicks in which should only need 10% travel to lock the rear wheel. This would integrate the Regen smoothly into the natural braking. And it would also contain the normal brake sensor to active the brake light in cases where only the rear brake is used. My Votol doesnât support that throttle e brake and since its for my girlfriend to ride I think I wouldnât use it. But if i had a beast mode ebike for myself I would definitely want that.
I checked the aliexpress specifications and it says their thumb throttle is actually a 0.8-4.2v hall sensor type and that it can e used for throttle e-brake. So now Iâm wondering whats the difference in behavior between the two types of throttle. The 4.2 is not really a problem because you can just set regen amps higher but im wonder how it trims the 0.8v off the bottom. Or does it do nothing until 0.8v and the 0-5v throttle has deadband. Or does it share calibration settings with the throttle and if you use hall sensor throttle you need hall sensor ebrake. I went through all this with my Votol because the manufacturer doesnât tell you how to program it in depth.
What BMS a do these chinese aliE triangle batteries originally come with? And what thickness nicklestrip?what you done here to draw 200a amazes me brođ
You bought that battery and it's that quality đ€ I wouldn't be happy I always build my own battery packs I never bought one. Even my first pack I made look a bit better. And I used homemade tools made out of scrap I still use them. Are you sure the cells are 100% of original. If they fake you're probably have problems after 6-months. One of the worst thing you can do is put a soldering iron on the cells. Heat will Kill the cells live capacity you'll be losing charging Cycles. It's best to solder the wires on the strips and then spot weld onto the cells. Or use a very hot solder iron & flux and be in and out in 3 to 4 seconds without heat transferring to the cells. Any more than 4 seconds you will kill them. You can't get a shock from a 72v battery pack. it was probably something sharp sticking out.
I know that was one my first mistake I did get shocked, and yes I do want to build my own battery pack also and get me a good spot welder, it's just a lot neater, it's been a while since I bought it and it's been doing good but I was pissed was it had a 60a bms in it , like WTF?! But thank you for the good info tho
For less than $700 delivered, with battery bag and charger, its hard to beat, especially for those who donât have the equipment needed to assemble a battery. Its sold as a 4000w battery and if its 20s11p itâs probably 33-37 AH. If they would send me the kit unassembled I could have arranged the cells properly so each brick has proper tabbing to the next brick. You can see the top row they put all the cells in a line with a single layer tabbing across 22 cells, so that point in the middle got hot even at 60a and acted like a fuse after the BMS bypass. I also like being able to choose my own BMS when making a battery. I have the ANT right now but the JK is so cheap now I would probably use it next time just for the fact it can active balance 20x faster than my ANT can passive balance. My battery cost about $400 to build a LiFePO4 32650 20s6p. Cells say 6ah, but actually they are 5.5ah, and give a usable 5ah the way i use them. So i have 30ah when charged to 3.48v and discharged to 3.0v. The ANT does a good job at coulomb counting which is the only way to go with these cells. My battery is completely assembled without any soldering or welding, just screws and nuts. So if it gets a problem i just take it apart, find the bad cells, rearrange cells from my highest and lowest capacity bricks, and put it back together.
@@imho7250 now that nice no soldering or welding, I know it's a lot easier to find a bad cell and replace it with no hassle đ and the ant bms I want one
@@E-bikeguy , the first build was 20s5p using square cell holders and and pre-drilled copper tabbing for the parallel busses and double row for the series/parallel busses. It only took at hour to assemble the pieces. But to jump to 6p I needed hexagonal cell holders which nobody makes for some reason, so i used 3mm thick polycarbonate sheets to make the cell holders. That was a nightmare and took three orders of polycarbonate sheet to get it done acceptably well. But now i can take it apart fast is needed and put it back together fast. You can see it in the video
this is aknow issue... if you not want to change battery layout, then try pure copper strip...but why not build it like a surron battery i mean connect the seriel to parralel connection in the way the P group batts are ALL connected... not just one spot where the A draw cant handle ? ??
Nice breakdown. I'm going to do the shunt mod on the controller and see if that's enough. If not I'm going to buy one of these cheap batteries and just spot weld nickel plates to double them up. I think 3000watts is enough for me.
Good idea, on The controller I brought a cheap battery too and I just did in my battery videos what you going to do but I don't have a spot welder yet lol
@@E-bikeguy What I meant was I already have a 2000watt bike with 52v. I'm going to do the shunt mod and if that's fun enough I'll be good, but if it's slow and won't do wheelies in going to gst a whole new kit. But like you said I'm not spending 1500 for a battery especially when theres a way to modify them and make cheap ones much better.
@@hank_Reardon yeah that's the info I'm trying to put out there, you don't always have to buy a expensive battery and that you can make a cheap battery better
I knew all them guys blowing past me standing still was on ebikes they always got fruit juice on and dressed like a BMX teamster đ im passed out under a shade tree
@17:30 I can attest to that. Lol. Even when i was spot welding my 48v battery and lay my sweaty arm across it you can feel it. And since its DC and not AC it feels different. Like getting stung by a jellyfish. And my 60v battery will also sting a but if you pick it up bare. Im sure your 72v battery charged to 84v volt will definitely sting. The sting wont kill you but it might make you drop a conductor on those busses and then the party really gets started. Lol
@@E-bikeguy i have a comment with link to a 30 second video of my battery build that got caught in spam guard, waiting for you to approve it somehow in CZcams settings. Lol
Problem with cheap batteries and some more expensive batteries from China is they cheap out and use nickel coated steel to connect batteries, not good. I like your work around using 14g copper wire. I had bought 72v 21700 LG 4800 mAH battery pac thinking they would use pure nickle strips but they proved me wrong. Always ask seller if they use pure nickle.
I seen a video on batteries they make in NYC bike shops they solder wire to batteries only, no nickel strips. People say these batteries catch on fire when charging allot of times . I don't know that though. I bet if you hook that 72 volt battery to the drill it will do something. LOL
Man I'm thinking starting on my 29 Mongoose mt bike frame its steel so first tools u mentioned was welder and grinder Got a lot of #12 g laying around from wiring houses
I just threw up a bunch of CZcams shorts to show you what I have going on with my bikes and battery. First time making videos. I think I'll set up a different channel after this.
hey I just bought this battery and a 2000 watt hub motor. I think I got the same kit as you for the motor. Any other advice you have for me besides what you have in your video? Also, did the the battery come with a BMS? Or is that something you added?
@@E-bikeguy hey thanks for the reply! I appreciate it! My rig has 340 amp hours at 48 volts nominal. That is 16,000 watt hours! Basically I could run three houses for a day if the sun stopped. I only have 1,500 of solar but i hardly use the 5-7 hours of energy i get from that. Anyway do you think I will need to modify this battery to make it useful? Or does it work as intended for leisure travel?
Yes they works too I'm going to upgrade to some qs8 connector and put a 200a braker down by the bottom bracket so I don't have to unplug the connector all the time plus if something happens the braker will trip
If you want to go all out, get the 200a controller the 150a is a powerful controller also but I'll say the 200a hey next week I'm going to do a official speed test on the bike my buddy is going to ride we going to record the speed with the phone app did 72 so far so we going to see if it can go faster.
If i buy The Same battery but 30ah version, you think The bms is 60a as they say, or can it Be like 40 or 50.. and If i buy The 3000w 72v, 100a Max, 50 or 60a continous controller would it overheat like yours did. Sure i can lower The amps by programming If needed but i think The battery should handle it without modding The nicklestrips, especially If the specs Are as they say 60a continous 100a max
No you good it should have the same bms it it as mine but any controller under 60a is ok, so the reason mine overheated is because I was drawing way more amps for the nickel strips, they were too weak to handle the current, but it's a good battery had no problem with the cells in it tho
can u put a link to the battery you bought? my bike only 48v and does 32 mph with a bafang drive but its got a 20 mph locked controller for throttle... been looking into upgrades for that and im looking for a high ah second battery i can fit on it. wish it didn't have a stock proprietary battery so it would be easier to upgrade voltage
Hi Sully. The Bafang motor can use up to a 52 volt battery with the stock controller. You would need not upgrade the controller to a BAC 855 or a phaserunner in order to run 72 volts (CZcams the high voltage channel, lots of how to videos there on the BBSHD). Happy modding:)
I would HIGHLY recommend you use corrugated plastic board to better envelope that battery. You know the board they use for political signs they put in the grass. I usually grab a dozen every voting season, great building material. I'm building a led system out of that board to enclose my ebike triangle area to hide the battery and be all festive.
This was hard to watch, I know it's a fairly old video but a lil advice, cover anything your not working on & invest in a spot welder it will make things so much easier & you'll be able to build batteries for your needs & for almost 50% less than buying.
Hi friend, i ran into my first obstacle and not sure if i need to send my kit back to MQCON , i noticed that the Sabvoton hall sensor connecting plug does not match up with the hall sensor plug of my hub motor, their plug is big and the one from my hub motor is small, any suggestions, i hope i dont have to send the kit back :(
@@E-bikeguy how do i get an adapter i dont know who might supply it, plus im worried because i have a 2000 watt hub and this controller says its sine wave im not sure if my hub is sine wave compatible or not, the label on my old controller says its a controller for brushless motor, the Sabvoton label says its a brushless motor sine-wave controller, im so confused at this point.
@@E-bikeguy ok from the photo it seems I need type 2 adapter I will try to order it right away, many thanks đ for you assistance on this rebuild Iâm hoping to gain lots of knowledge from this experience and your guidance đ€
Nice camera work, not. I'm really surprised this battery hasn't burst into flames. J.S. I would not suggest ever using a soldering iron on a battery cell. A battery is only as good as the cells you use.
In order to produce 14000 watts with a 72v battery you have to have a 200 amp controller and that's insane. That's a catastrophe waiting to happen with equipment like that, J.S. be very careful. Make sure you post the photos and videos when this goes up in flames. When you burn your house down you will start building them right and you will see why it's good to spend the money on good equipment.
Cutting board sheets work great as covers for batteries and used ones at local Goodwill are cheap
Nice info I'll have to take notes when I watch the whole thing!
I wonât lie, the soldering tip incident at the end of the video made me laugh đ
Thanks for posting this video brother. I really like your content and your no BS reviews/ tutorials.
No problem yes don't really like the music of or hyper lapse stuff, just don't learn nothing from it.
Awesome video good technical advice i feel, keep these videos coming they really help me be brave enough to tackle my DIY build even though im technically inclined , watching you alter energy sources on this level is very inspiring.
Thank you đ it always a pleasure đ
It you get a Bluetooth bms on those batteries then you and or your customers can monitor there cell balance and help keep that battery living longer .. I found some new bms on Amazon and there cheep enough plus have everything we need so testing 2 right now and as far as I can see there perfect for our use.
I have smart bms for them cheap packs but not mine I have now
I've never even heard of this idea before. Beefing up the nickel stripping with copper wire. Another great idea I got from your channel.
Yes and it works great never had a problem!!!đŻ
Nice battery class from professor ebike you have lots of very intelligent info thanks
No problem its nice to show yall the problems and modifications that I did so you can feed a lil bit of knowledge đ
Rate you for what u do to ur build man.
I wish I done electrics years ago these ebikes then would be a doddle.
Like I showed you on Facebook an ANT BMS would be a wikid upgrade to that battery.
Good stuff đ
Yeah I would love to have that bms my wife just recently landed a good job to take up the slack so now I'll be able to grab one for me and my kids bike
@@E-bikeguy your wife needs to be a chef judging by your dinner that you put up last week man đđ Looked beyond bangingđ
What you say!!!! Man it's was indeed banging. Not always we have something like that lol
Jeez bro you probably save $1000 with that battery mod which took 10 hours where we gona earn 100 bucks a hour!! I salute you man you know your stuff I Will probably watch this video 10 times and attempt my battery mod when i get the same battery.only downside in uk is our taxes and vat on imports but still a saving.
Yeah every since I did that modifications to the battery, it's been really reliable.
I found a link to a 0-5v (non-hall) thumb throttle e-brake specifically for your Sabvoton controller. You may already have one but if its hall sensor (0.8v-4.2v) itâs possible it wont work because there is no calibration for it like the throttle has. So a hall sensor 0.8v e-brake might create a fault as soon as you turn on the controller. But if you have a 0-5v thumb throttle it should work.
When you set ebrake throttle, it no longer activates regen from the brake lever, but you will be able ro set max regen higher because you will have variable regen. I assume throttle release regen will still stay the same and ebrake throttle will just add to that.
I can say without ever using it that its best suited to those who want more interaction, more control, more aggressive regen. But for passive ride the the basic two stage from mild throttle release and moderate brake activated regen is going to be more casual.
If can only be set to ebrake throttle from the PC app, and must have the right version, which is available from Siaecosys.
Iâll post the Aliexpress link below because its going to be hiding in the spam folder. Lol
This feature gave me the idea of a rear brake hydraulic lever with the first 30-50% travel being creating a 0-5v signal and then the hydraulic kicks in which should only need 10% travel to lock the rear wheel. This would integrate the Regen smoothly into the natural braking.
And it would also contain the normal brake sensor to active the brake light in cases where only the rear brake is used.
My Votol doesnât support that throttle e brake and since its for my girlfriend to ride I think I wouldnât use it. But if i had a beast mode ebike for myself I would definitely want that.
I checked the aliexpress specifications and it says their thumb throttle is actually a 0.8-4.2v hall sensor type and that it can e used for throttle e-brake. So now Iâm wondering whats the difference in behavior between the two types of throttle.
The 4.2 is not really a problem because you can just set regen amps higher but im wonder how it trims the 0.8v off the bottom. Or does it do nothing until 0.8v and the 0-5v throttle has deadband. Or does it share calibration settings with the throttle and if you use hall sensor throttle you need hall sensor ebrake.
I went through all this with my Votol because the manufacturer doesnât tell you how to program it in depth.
Yes that would be a nice for ebrake function
Yes same here with the sabvoton controller, no real details on how to really get the best results from it.
What BMS a do these chinese aliE triangle batteries originally come with? And what thickness nicklestrip?what you done here to draw 200a amazes me brođ
They come with a 60a bms and have really thin nickel strips, so I put a solid copper wire on top to pull above 200a
đđ„đđżđŻ
You bought that battery and it's that quality đ€
I wouldn't be happy
I always build my own battery packs I never bought one.
Even my first pack I made look a bit better.
And I used homemade tools made out of scrap
I still use them.
Are you sure the cells are 100% of original.
If they fake you're probably have problems after 6-months.
One of the worst thing you can do is put a soldering iron on the cells.
Heat will Kill the cells live capacity
you'll be losing charging Cycles.
It's best to solder the wires on the strips and then spot weld onto the cells.
Or use a very hot solder iron & flux and be in and out in 3 to 4 seconds without heat transferring to the cells.
Any more than 4 seconds you will kill them.
You can't get a shock from a 72v battery pack.
it was probably something sharp sticking out.
I know that was one my first mistake I did get shocked, and yes I do want to build my own battery pack also and get me a good spot welder, it's just a lot neater, it's been a while since I bought it and it's been doing good but I was pissed was it had a 60a bms in it , like WTF?! But thank you for the good info tho
For less than $700 delivered, with battery bag and charger, its hard to beat, especially for those who donât have the equipment needed to assemble a battery. Its sold as a 4000w battery and if its 20s11p itâs probably 33-37 AH.
If they would send me the kit unassembled I could have arranged the cells properly so each brick has proper tabbing to the next brick. You can see the top row they put all the cells in a line with a single layer tabbing across 22 cells, so that point in the middle got hot even at 60a and acted like a fuse after the BMS bypass.
I also like being able to choose my own BMS when making a battery. I have the ANT right now but the JK is so cheap now I would probably use it next time just for the fact it can active balance 20x faster than my ANT can passive balance.
My battery cost about $400 to build a LiFePO4 32650 20s6p. Cells say 6ah, but actually they are 5.5ah, and give a usable 5ah the way i use them. So i have 30ah when charged to 3.48v and discharged to 3.0v. The ANT does a good job at coulomb counting which is the only way to go with these cells.
My battery is completely assembled without any soldering or welding, just screws and nuts. So if it gets a problem i just take it apart, find the bad cells, rearrange cells from my highest and lowest capacity bricks, and put it back together.
@@imho7250 now that nice no soldering or welding, I know it's a lot easier to find a bad cell and replace it with no hassle đ and the ant bms I want one
@@E-bikeguy , the first build was 20s5p using square cell holders and and pre-drilled copper tabbing for the parallel busses and double row for the series/parallel busses. It only took at hour to assemble the pieces. But to jump to 6p I needed hexagonal cell holders which nobody makes for some reason, so i used 3mm thick polycarbonate sheets to make the cell holders. That was a nightmare and took three orders of polycarbonate sheet to get it done acceptably well. But now i can take it apart fast is needed and put it back together fast.
You can see it in the video
Dang I need to see it too
this is aknow issue... if you not want to change battery layout, then try pure copper strip...but why not build it like a surron battery i mean connect the seriel to parralel connection in the way the P group batts are ALL connected... not just one spot where the A draw cant handle ? ??
That's my next move on nickel plated copper
Nice breakdown. I'm going to do the shunt mod on the controller and see if that's enough. If not I'm going to buy one of these cheap batteries and just spot weld nickel plates to double them up. I think 3000watts is enough for me.
Good idea, on The controller I brought a cheap battery too and I just did in my battery videos what you going to do but I don't have a spot welder yet lol
@@E-bikeguy
What I meant was I already have a 2000watt bike with 52v. I'm going to do the shunt mod and if that's fun enough I'll be good, but if it's slow and won't do wheelies in going to gst a whole new kit.
But like you said I'm not spending 1500 for a battery especially when theres a way to modify them and make cheap ones much better.
Also I did see a video where a guy fixed a battery and the dead cell was the one with soldering on it.
@@hank_Reardon yeah that's the info I'm trying to put out there, you don't always have to buy a expensive battery and that you can make a cheap battery better
I know right sometimes people just be tripping for nothing đ
I knew all them guys blowing past me standing still was on ebikes they always got fruit juice on and dressed like a BMX teamster đ im passed out under a shade tree
@17:30 I can attest to that. Lol. Even when i was spot welding my 48v battery and lay my sweaty arm across it you can feel it. And since its DC and not AC it feels different. Like getting stung by a jellyfish. And my 60v battery will also sting a but if you pick it up bare. Im sure your 72v battery charged to 84v volt will definitely sting.
The sting wont kill you but it might make you drop a conductor on those busses and then the party really gets started. Lol
Lol yeah I didn't know could get shocked by that battery but I definitely did and it do feels different from AC charge đ
@@E-bikeguy , this is my Lego battery build. No welding, no soldering: czcams.com/video/Jn1VsP58Adw/video.html
@@E-bikeguy i have a comment with link to a 30 second video of my battery build that got caught in spam guard, waiting for you to approve it somehow in CZcams settings. Lol
Ok ill try to find it
Let me try on the computer I can find settings for comments
Problem with cheap batteries and some more expensive batteries from China is they cheap out and use nickel coated steel to connect batteries, not good. I like your work around using 14g copper wire. I had bought 72v 21700 LG 4800 mAH battery pac thinking they would use pure nickle strips but they proved me wrong. Always ask seller if they use pure nickle.
Correct. That is why I put copper over the nickel strips
I seen a video on batteries they make in NYC bike shops they solder wire to batteries only, no nickel strips. People say these batteries catch on fire when charging allot of times . I don't know that though. I bet if you hook that 72 volt battery to the drill it will do something. LOL
đ€Łđ€Łđ€Łđ€Ł you right , that drill might go to outer space lol
solder irons used to make stain glass can be much hotter
I'm actually looking for something like that
Man I'm thinking starting on my 29 Mongoose mt bike frame its steel so first tools u mentioned was welder and grinder
Got a lot of #12 g laying around from wiring houses
Heck yeah lol sorry for the late reply I have the flu
My bad ,hope u rest up .
@lancesudberry209 I'm in the bad, my body hurts
@@E-bikeguy be up on your vitamins it's getting hard to find good nutrition in local stores.
I just threw up a bunch of CZcams shorts to show you what I have going on with my bikes and battery. First time making videos. I think I'll set up a different channel after this.
Ok ill try to go and see them
hey I just bought this battery and a 2000 watt hub motor. I think I got the same kit as you for the motor. Any other advice you have for me besides what you have in your video?
Also, did the the battery come with a BMS? Or is that something you added?
Not really once you modify it like I did it can output 150a continuous and add either xt90 or qs8 connector for your discharge side
@@E-bikeguy hey thanks for the reply! I appreciate it! My rig has 340 amp hours at 48 volts nominal. That is 16,000 watt hours! Basically I could run three houses for a day if the sun stopped. I only have 1,500 of solar but i hardly use the 5-7 hours of energy i get from that.
Anyway do you think I will need to modify this battery to make it useful?
Or does it work as intended for leisure travel?
@TwZlr. anything under 80amps you will be fine
@@E-bikeguy cool thanks, I don't need to go any faster than 30mph
@@TwZlr. lol ok đ
Hey brother when working u have to unplug the bms right the batteries is activated
Ok well I do know if the bms do go in protection mode I have to unplug it then plug in back in to reset it
Looks good... I'm going to replace my connectors with anti spark plugs
Yes they works too I'm going to upgrade to some qs8 connector and put a 200a braker down by the bottom bracket so I don't have to unplug the connector all the time plus if something happens the braker will trip
@@E-bikeguy can you make a video of you doing that?
Oh yes I will do one of me installing it and all.
Thomas, it's a work of f ing art man!! gman305
Thank you đŻ đ that's the old one I modified work pretty good but needed more power lol
I like it đȘđż keep up the good work
I definitely will, much loveđ
If I get one of those batteries from AliExpress 72v 40a will I have to do what you did
Only if you pair it with a high power controller but any controller under 80 amps of current draw you is good to go no modification needed
@@E-bikeguy what controller do you recommend 150 or 200 sabvoton
If you want to go all out, get the 200a controller the 150a is a powerful controller also but I'll say the 200a hey next week I'm going to do a official speed test on the bike my buddy is going to ride we going to record the speed with the phone app did 72 so far so we going to see if it can go faster.
If i buy The Same battery but 30ah version, you think The bms is 60a as they say, or can it Be like 40 or 50.. and If i buy The 3000w 72v, 100a Max, 50 or 60a continous controller would it overheat like yours did. Sure i can lower The amps by programming If needed but i think The battery should handle it without modding The nicklestrips, especially If the specs Are as they say 60a continous 100a max
No you good it should have the same bms it it as mine but any controller under 60a is ok, so the reason mine overheated is because I was drawing way more amps for the nickel strips, they were too weak to handle the current, but it's a good battery had no problem with the cells in it tho
@@E-bikeguy okey, thanks :)
No problem
can u put a link to the battery you bought? my bike only 48v and does 32 mph with a bafang drive but its got a 20 mph locked controller for throttle... been looking into upgrades for that and im looking for a high ah second battery i can fit on it. wish it didn't have a stock proprietary battery so it would be easier to upgrade voltage
Ok ill send it over
US $328.30 30%OFF | 72V 40AH Triangle Bag Scooter Electric bicycle lithium battery 2000W 3000W 72V Battery Pack
a.aliexpress.com/_ms6i6qY
Hi Sully. The Bafang motor can use up to a 52 volt battery with the stock controller. You would need not upgrade the controller to a BAC 855 or a phaserunner in order to run 72 volts (CZcams the high voltage channel, lots of how to videos there on the BBSHD). Happy modding:)
@@E-bikeguy the 40 ah battery is $598.
@@erpringle yes it is
You should never have drinks around your work area that could be fatal
Heck yeah, thanks for the info đ
I would HIGHLY recommend you use corrugated plastic board to better envelope that battery. You know the board they use for political signs they put in the grass. I usually grab a dozen every voting season, great building material. I'm building a led system out of that board to enclose my ebike triangle area to hide the battery and be all festive.
Thank you much appreciated. I'm doing a new battery with molicel ill do that then
Lol love the video but battery work over an area rug in the living room is crazy. Please be careful
Yeah it is dangerous đł and have to have a steady hand and patience to do a job like this.
This was hard to watch, I know it's a fairly old video but a lil advice, cover anything your not working on & invest in a spot welder it will make things so much easier & you'll be able to build batteries for your needs & for almost 50% less than buying.
No. You good, always good information I'm still learning đ
Hi blue, is there a way I can communicate with you?
Email me at theebikeguy08@gmail.com
A good trick is get some plastic sheet cutting board from Walmart and place it on either side of the top of the battery so you don't get shocked
Yes lol it got me a few times .
Hi friend, i ran into my first obstacle and not sure if i need to send my kit back to MQCON , i noticed that the Sabvoton hall sensor connecting plug does not match up with the hall sensor plug of my hub motor, their plug is big and the one from my hub motor is small, any suggestions, i hope i dont have to send the kit back :(
Oh ok you need a hall adapter
@@E-bikeguy how do i get an adapter i dont know who might supply it, plus im worried because i have a 2000 watt hub and this controller says its sine wave im not sure if my hub is sine wave compatible or not, the label on my old controller says its a controller for brushless motor, the Sabvoton label says its a brushless motor sine-wave controller, im so confused at this point.
Yes it's compatible, it's the controller that makes the motor quite and smooth power delivery ill send you a link
US $12.99 | Ebike Motor Hall Connector Adapter, Hub Motor Hall Adapt Connector
a.aliexpress.com/_mLpgbni
@@E-bikeguy ok from the photo it seems I need type 2 adapter I will try to order it right away, many thanks đ for you assistance on this rebuild Iâm hoping to gain lots of knowledge from this experience and your guidance đ€
Do you know how to build a 25000 W battery
What the voltage you looking for
@@E-bikeguy Because I wanna build a 3 Wheeler e-BIKE PEBL..... I wanted to be fast and long distance travel bike Next summerđ
@@LEON9623 oh yeah đ that will be a epic bike too,
I live in Cleveland Ohio
summertime been in Florida for legal Land one week đ
cant see when u were soldering
I know, I'm sorry I thought I had the camera good but no, I'll make another video on that battery.
Nice camera work, not. I'm really surprised this battery hasn't burst into flames. J.S. I would not suggest ever using a soldering iron on a battery cell. A battery is only as good as the cells you use.
I agree with that. you get what you pay for but as of now no flames, no problems đ đ
Wait... You're doing 70+ on a bike designed to go like 22??? Not safe at all!
Yes I'm do but all the time
In order to produce 14000 watts with a 72v battery you have to have a 200 amp controller and that's insane. That's a catastrophe waiting to happen with equipment like that, J.S. be very careful. Make sure you post the photos and videos when this goes up in flames. When you burn your house down you will start building them right and you will see why it's good to spend the money on good equipment.
No problem and yes I do have a 200a controller delivering all the juice to the wheels đ I definitely keep you posted.