Appreciate watching you. I bought 2 batteries with a complex bms that has extra safety wires, so i bought 2 48v bms(s) that look just like your bms in this video just 13s
🤣🤣🤣 I know it looks like a bunch of mess I was like wow as I wrapped it up it looks way better that spot welder came in handy. I can see how confusing it gets lol
E, you really tech savvy minded. Not sure if ya work but he'll a jobs in electrical field , even with them new e bike shops. They can use folks like ya. Schooling too is only 6 month cert program depending on the State you live in. Mass openings for them Emergency Techs of them power outages of disasters like the flooding in mid west and ya area. You got skills on the tech E. Go farther...
You should look in to manufacturacting plants that you can buy in bulk, for like the shrink wrap ie, get a role et. Hook yourself up with a chinese manuf. They'll sell you single cells in bulk for like 0.20cents a cell ..
Here's a tip. Those thin balance wires can be difficult to apply solder to. You can use flux paste to tin the balance wires. Also, if you apply flux to the nickel strips the solder will adhere to the strip better and faster, which will minimize the amount of time that the cells are exposed to heat. Heat can damage the cells if they get too hot.
im trying to replace my bms but it never came with a spot for the on off switch as i dont see anything. do u know how to wire this up? my old one had a wire coming right out of the bms and this one i was told was compatbile. it also has an extra pin in the harness... first time messing with bms trying to save my bike been down for weeks
I just finished checking my 13s5p lithium-ion battery with “DUMB” BMS to see if it was balanced and the test failed. I made a video showing what happens when the BMS closes the charge port before it reaches full pack voltage and begins top balancing maintenance. Then I opened the pack up and found the high brick that was tripping it and manually bleed it at 2a with my hobby charger for an hour. And also pumped up one brick that was below 4.20v. The second video shows how the charger/BMS are supposed to work together and achieve the balance maintenance after the light turns green. Its critical that the battery is really fully charged even down to 0.01a amp so that when the charger is unplugged the high bricks bleed, not just subside from a surge of 2a charging. And all this hassle can be avoided with a SMART BMS. But i don’t know the cheapest bluetooth BMS that will let you do everything needed from an app. Normally they starts at about $40. But once you have one you will never again trust a basic BMS on a high power battery.
@@E-bikeguy, unfortunately I don’t know how to do video editing but probably with just the video you can see whats going on with just the charger LED and the multimeter reading. Even though you cant “see” the port close, you can know the only thing that can cause a sudden jump in voltage and green light in this test is the BMS port closing. The second video shows with the charger off, the voltage stays within 0.1v of peak, so the BMS port must be staying open. Then plugging in the charger the voltage goes to 54.8v and will stay there until unplugged. The balancing is so slow that It would take a 12 hr time lapse to see any change. Unfortunately without smart BMS the only way to see if its getting more in balance or further out of balance is to open the battery and check with multimeter. I think you left your BMS balance lead connection where you can have a window to probe it and then put tape back over it. That’s probably the best solution as long as water can’t easily get in.
Yes I did that when I didn't have a bms installed I made some windows in the battery to check each series pack voltage, it was all over the place in voltage, so now I installed the bms and the series pack is now very close to each other in voltage but with a smart bms you can monitor the voltage without even checking the pack manually
@@E-bikeguy , yes, my LiFePO4 battery is sitting in the living room idle while the bike frame is getting powder coated but i can just pick up my phone and check it and know if i need to charge it up and let the BMS do a fresh top balance on it. It also has real SOC, which is very important for LiFePO4 but also nice to stabilize Li-ion SOC because it counts electrons leaving the battery not just a voltage gauge. For those who trust voltage for SOC more than Coulomb counting, the ANT BMS lets you choose to voltages from a lookup table you fill out on settings and when the current is zero for 60 seconds the SOC will reset to the value control to voltage, but any time you are driving it just ises the coulomb counter so the SOC stays very smooth and prevents, not sagging snd surging as you accelerate or regen.
Thanks I tried getting new batteries for my bike but after connection I tried to avoid the bms but when I plug in the indicators show low voltage what do you think maybe the problem
No problem, so when you bypass a bms on your battery, that maybe your nickel strips is probably bunt so you might want to open up the battery and inspect all the connections on your battery
Man I do need your help. I got my 2000 watt bike all put together and I got power to the throttle but when I twist it nothing happens I checked all the wiring all matching colors I don't have the brake cut offs hooked up nor do I have the pedal assist. Do you have any ideas? I would give you my phone number if needed to figure out this issue.
Nice battery bro I’m building a battery to mine uses 26650 capable of doing 120a bursts and individually the battery itself is capable of putting out 250a max continuously and 600amps burst for a few seconds I’m still in the process of ordering copper bus bars capable of handling 650amps that will be soldered onto the battery and this battery is being used on my high power ebike project it might be a little overkill tho😂😂 24s5p A123m1b
Hey better be safe than sorry , even tho it might be overkill at least you know you battery is up to the task, the battery is doing amazing and with a bms installed it don't have to check each series pack voltage, now it has way more range on it too. But your battery is on another level 😯
@@E-bikeguy lol thanks I’ve been working really hard on it Oh and there was only one design flaw when building it and that was how big it is it’s 24inches long witch means I can’t fit it into the bike frame but it does fit in my 29in long backpack what I’ll have to do tho is wrap the battery in some thick bubble wrap so that if I ever fell it wouldn’t totally break my battery and hopefully it’ll just absorb the impact 😅big design flaw on my part rookie battery builder mistake 😅but hopefully this is a workaround what do you think?
We all make mistakes but at the end it will be well worth it cause we learn from them lol but I think it will be a good set up not too big tho, so how much do it weigh? If you do fall it will be protected good in some wrap too I would like to see your battery build.
@@E-bikeguy kinda unsure on how much it weighs but I estimate at roughly around 40lbs oh and something cool about the cells that I’m using is that it states that it can be charged at 10amps with a charge time of only 12minutes witch I think is insane I’m going with the 3a charger because the 10amp one is 100$😭 but using the 3a will only take 1 hour witch isn’t bad either the bms that I’m gonna be using on it is a Daly bms 100amp continuously and can do 350amp bursts fully programmable to and expensive 😭😭
Thinking about it more that wouldn't be a very good BMS if it did that.sharibg a connection your bms would shut the charge off when it reaches full........also cutting out your ability to discharge it and same exact problem in reverse when u drain it too low it becomes unable to charge. So you are def mistaken sharing C- to discharge and charge
I think in the case the bms only has a b- and a c- it would be just a charging board+ no protection from over discharge and the negative is meant to draw directly from the battery. I got one of those once ordering a BMS off amazon
30a BMS so you bypassed the BMS to the controller but let the charger go through the BMS so it can block charging when any brick reaches 4.25ish volts.
@@E-bikeguy, oh, interesting. I wonder what it will trip at if its not hard coded at 30a. I know most have inrush current allowance for initial charging of the capacitors when you plug in a controller and short circuit protection that allows a high current for 10 milliseconds. It will be interesting to see how long it can run at 2000w, 3000w, 4000w with the 80a controller. It should handle 2000w continuously but 3000w it should not like that for more than 30 seconds. But if it can last 30 seconds that’s probably more than the 1000w motor will like.
You have negative than #1 at bottom on that pack flip it over to top put #2 on positive side by main negative flip it back over to bottom #3 goes to next pack
Nice work Ebikeguy I really enjoy your video's Bro. You make wiring up a bms to a battery pack look so very easy 🙂
Thank you, the more I do it the better I get, I've learned a lot since I started this channel
Yo, thanks for that, you were right, by the end of the vid it was easy to understand.
A methodical approach made it clear ..
Appreciate watching you. I bought 2 batteries with a complex bms that has extra safety wires, so i bought 2 48v bms(s) that look just like your bms in this video just 13s
Man you handled that spaghetti like a Sicilian!
🤣🤣🤣 I know it looks like a bunch of mess I was like wow as I wrapped it up it looks way better that spot welder came in handy. I can see how confusing it gets lol
I really enjoyed your battery build 😊
Thank you 😊 so much
Very good pack man,I think I could build my battery, I trow it away 2 battery packs ,I should use it to make a bigger pack.
Yes that's what I did I started off with 48v now its 60v
E, you really tech savvy minded. Not sure if ya work but he'll a jobs in electrical field , even with them new e bike shops. They can use folks like ya. Schooling too is only 6 month cert program depending on the State you live in. Mass openings for them Emergency Techs of them power outages of disasters like the flooding in mid west and ya area. You got skills on the tech E. Go farther...
I would like that too
You should look in to manufacturacting plants that you can buy in bulk, for like the shrink wrap ie, get a role et.
Hook yourself up with a chinese manuf. They'll sell you single cells in bulk for like 0.20cents a cell ..
Here's a tip. Those thin balance wires can be difficult to apply solder to. You can use flux paste to tin the balance wires. Also, if you apply flux to the nickel strips the solder will adhere to the strip better and faster, which will minimize the amount of time that the cells are exposed to heat. Heat can damage the cells if they get too hot.
Thank you I have flux too, I'll definitely try that.
Yeah, I mentioned it as it helped me as I was having issues myself. Love your videos!@@E-bikeguy
im trying to replace my bms but it never came with a spot for the on off switch as i dont see anything. do u know how to wire this up? my old one had a wire coming right out of the bms and this one i was told was compatbile. it also has an extra pin in the harness... first time messing with bms trying to save my bike been down for weeks
What bms do you have?
I just finished checking my 13s5p lithium-ion battery with “DUMB” BMS to see if it was balanced and the test failed. I made a video showing what happens when the BMS closes the charge port before it reaches full pack voltage and begins top balancing maintenance.
Then I opened the pack up and found the high brick that was tripping it and manually bleed it at 2a with my hobby charger for an hour. And also pumped up one brick that was below 4.20v.
The second video shows how the charger/BMS are supposed to work together and achieve the balance maintenance after the light turns green. Its critical that the battery is really fully charged even down to 0.01a amp so that when the charger is unplugged the high bricks bleed, not just subside from a surge of 2a charging.
And all this hassle can be avoided with a SMART BMS. But i don’t know the cheapest bluetooth BMS that will let you do everything needed from an app. Normally they starts at about $40. But once you have one you will never again trust a basic BMS on a high power battery.
That's very good information ill check out the video in a few definitely might learn something here
@@E-bikeguy, unfortunately I don’t know how to do video editing but probably with just the video you can see whats going on with just the charger LED and the multimeter reading. Even though you cant “see” the port close, you can know the only thing that can cause a sudden jump in voltage and green light in this test is the BMS port closing.
The second video shows with the charger off, the voltage stays within 0.1v of peak, so the BMS port must be staying open. Then plugging in the charger the voltage goes to 54.8v and will stay there until unplugged.
The balancing is so slow that It would take a 12 hr time lapse to see any change. Unfortunately without smart BMS the only way to see if its getting more in balance or further out of balance is to open the battery and check with multimeter. I think you left your BMS balance lead connection where you can have a window to probe it and then put tape back over it. That’s probably the best solution as long as water can’t easily get in.
Yes I did that when I didn't have a bms installed I made some windows in the battery to check each series pack voltage, it was all over the place in voltage, so now I installed the bms and the series pack is now very close to each other in voltage but with a smart bms you can monitor the voltage without even checking the pack manually
@@E-bikeguy , yes, my LiFePO4 battery is sitting in the living room idle while the bike frame is getting powder coated but i can just pick up my phone and check it and know if i need to charge it up and let the BMS do a fresh top balance on it.
It also has real SOC, which is very important for LiFePO4 but also nice to stabilize Li-ion SOC because it counts electrons leaving the battery not just a voltage gauge. For those who trust voltage for SOC more than Coulomb counting, the ANT BMS lets you choose to voltages from a lookup table you fill out on settings and when the current is zero for 60 seconds the SOC will reset to the value control to voltage, but any time you are driving it just ises the coulomb counter so the SOC stays very smooth and prevents, not sagging snd surging as you accelerate or regen.
I like that very much
Can i know what bms u using? Can we mix a big bms like 80a or 100a? Teach us more about bms
@@mrcoco3562 I'll do one later in a video
Thanks I tried getting new batteries for my bike but after connection I tried to avoid the bms but when I plug in the indicators show low voltage what do you think maybe the problem
No problem, so when you bypass a bms on your battery, that maybe your nickel strips is probably bunt so you might want to open up the battery and inspect all the connections on your battery
When I open the battery pack everything is fine check your email I sent you something
Man I do need your help. I got my 2000 watt bike all put together and I got power to the throttle but when I twist it nothing happens I checked all the wiring all matching colors I don't have the brake cut offs hooked up nor do I have the pedal assist. Do you have any ideas? I would give you my phone number if needed to figure out this issue.
Ok email me at jakoie08@gmail.com
@@E-bikeguy I sent you an email with my phone number let me know if you get it or not
I didn't know you can mix cells?
Yes but they all must have the same capacity
Nice battery bro I’m building a battery to mine uses 26650 capable of doing 120a bursts and individually the battery itself is capable of putting out 250a max continuously and 600amps burst for a few seconds I’m still in the process of ordering copper bus bars capable of handling 650amps that will be soldered onto the battery and this battery is being used on my high power ebike project it might be a little overkill tho😂😂 24s5p A123m1b
Hey better be safe than sorry , even tho it might be overkill at least you know you battery is up to the task, the battery is doing amazing and with a bms installed it don't have to check each series pack voltage, now it has way more range on it too. But your battery is on another level 😯
@@E-bikeguy lol thanks I’ve been working really hard on it Oh and there was only one design flaw when building it and that was how big it is it’s 24inches long witch means I can’t fit it into the bike frame but it does fit in my 29in long backpack what I’ll have to do tho is wrap the battery in some thick bubble wrap so that if I ever fell it wouldn’t totally break my battery and hopefully it’ll just absorb the impact 😅big design flaw on my part rookie battery builder mistake 😅but hopefully this is a workaround what do you think?
We all make mistakes but at the end it will be well worth it cause we learn from them lol but I think it will be a good set up not too big tho, so how much do it weigh? If you do fall it will be protected good in some wrap too I would like to see your battery build.
@@E-bikeguy kinda unsure on how much it weighs but I estimate at roughly around 40lbs oh and something cool about the cells that I’m using is that it states that it can be charged at 10amps with a charge time of only 12minutes witch I think is insane I’m going with the 3a charger because the 10amp one is 100$😭 but using the 3a will only take 1 hour witch isn’t bad either the bms that I’m gonna be using on it is a Daly bms 100amp continuously and can do 350amp bursts fully programmable to and expensive 😭😭
Never had a BMS with C- for both discharge and charge. All the ones I've dealt with have a P- for discharge
Thinking about it more that wouldn't be a very good BMS if it did that.sharibg a connection your bms would shut the charge off when it reaches full........also cutting out your ability to discharge it and same exact problem in reverse when u drain it too low it becomes unable to charge. So you are def mistaken sharing C- to discharge and charge
Correct, yeah the one I had for my son's ebike c- and p- is on the same terminal left side and B- is in the right
I did had problems to where it just shut the bike down. So I replaced it with a bigger bms
@@E-bikeguy I just don't see how c- and p- could be on the same terminal it just wouldn't work
I think in the case the bms only has a b- and a c- it would be just a charging board+ no protection from over discharge and the negative is meant to draw directly from the battery. I got one of those once ordering a BMS off amazon
30a BMS so you bypassed the BMS to the controller but let the charger go through the BMS so it can block charging when any brick reaches 4.25ish volts.
No it's not bypass at all, it description says on this bms can discharge 3x the rated current before it goes into protection mode so about 90a
@@E-bikeguy, oh, interesting. I wonder what it will trip at if its not hard coded at 30a. I know most have inrush current allowance for initial charging of the capacitors when you plug in a controller and short circuit protection that allows a high current for 10 milliseconds.
It will be interesting to see how long it can run at 2000w, 3000w, 4000w with the 80a controller. It should handle 2000w continuously but 3000w it should not like that for more than 30 seconds. But if it can last 30 seconds that’s probably more than the 1000w motor will like.
@@imho7250 we definitely going to see on Wednesday that's when the new controller arrives
So a 30a bms can run how high controller??
@mrcoco3562 no. Maybe a 45a controller
Why did u flip the battery on connection three
You have negative than #1 at bottom on that pack flip it over to top put #2 on positive side by main negative flip it back over to bottom #3 goes to next pack
Be careful with that 80a controller at only 5p that's 16amps per cell sheesh
Thank you, well we had one before till someone stole the bike and crashed it
Too late for me😲
Sorry about that I wish I could have push this out earlier 😕
you must bank on those batteries when you order them wow