1969 Camaro and 1971 Mustang Body Updates
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- čas přidán 23. 04. 2024
- I address more ejector pin marks on both the Revell 69 Camaro and the 71 Mustang, but this time I actually show you how to do it...
Punch sets are available from umm-usa.com
The DSPIAE circle cutter is available wherever you can find it?
Anyway, reach me at
franksmodelworks@gmail.com - Zábava
Everyone has to drink every time I call a mold line a panel line.
I’ve drank so much water I have taken 17 bathroom breaks just in this video! The content however, priceless and greatly appreciated.
Haha right! You could also call the mold lines parting lines. Just thought I would add to the confusion. 😉
Thanks for the tips Frank, I always watch the whole video for you bud.
Watched the whole thing. I'm now a modeling genius. Thanks Frank.
Thanks Nick!
I stuck with you Frank! 90 minutes of ejector pin marks summed up “just sand it” 🤣
I tried to show the most common options for rectifying them, and then demonstrate why just sanding them is my go to option. If I hadn’t, then I’d have people in the comments saying “You should have used CA”, “I use sheet styrene”, or “Why didn’t you use putty?”, and my replies would generally only be seen by the commenter, and not the audience. I figured I’d show it all, and try to make it entertaining, so that I get the most information out to the viewer.
I’m reasonably certain that someone will eventually come along and say they use the fiberglass pencils, because I mentioned them in the video, but didn’t demonstrate them (because I disliked it so much, I threw it out.)
We modelers are a special breed. We can be rather difficult to get through to…we can be rather set in our ways and resistant to methods that weren’t taught by FineScale Modeler Magazine in the 80’s. There are many among us who like to jump on perceived incomplete or incorrect information and and clarify or complete the information (which is fine with me, but most people only read their own comments on CZcams and few people will see the completed or corrected info.) But unfortunately there are also trolls who just want to mess with people, or show how smart THEY are. I prefer to ignore them rather than engage them, because a sure fire way to watch them go supernova is to pay them no mind.
Knowing that, I try to present the alternatives to a particular technique or methodology and state why it might not be the best for a particular application.
It takes time to do that, and I get that it seems long winded to blather on about it for 90 minutes. But a large chunk of that 90 minutes was also trying to figure out how far back the fender well issue goes back in the 69 Camaro, so that people know what they’re dealing with if they want to buy one…especially a hardtop issue from 2013 to now.
@@FranksModelWorksI stuck with you, I just thought it was funny 🤣 Thanks as always for sharing!
Frank loves me (I made it to the end) 😂 . Thanks for the video! It was a good distraction from me pulling my hair out from this Hasegawa kit on my bench, lol.
Everything in my videos from now on arr panel lines. Valve cover - panel line. Hood scoop - panel line. J/k 😂
Thanks Panel Line, I mean, Billy! Thanks Billy!
Hey Frank I watched the whole thing do I get a medal, just kidding I learn a lot from your videos and you are entertaining. Keep up the great videos hope my videos are 1/4 as entertaining as yours, I only have uploaded a few so far hopefully the more I do the more comfortable I become.
Still here Frank @ the end. Very informative. I hope it helps Joe also.
Thanks Ron!
Good video Frank! Thanks 😎👍
Isopropyl alcohol removes sharpie better than anything. Dog is the star of the show. I try to fill ejector pin holes with ca glue and activator then save smooth. It doesn't shrink under paint like tamiya lacquer putty does.
Longest model car video I ever watched the whole way through! Just don't tell me you love me anymore!!😂 all great information Frank. I've never removed injection release marks. Now because of you I have to try that also. Great you keep giving me more work to do lol! The fender well makes me nervous!
It gets worse, Joe…it’s also in the rear passenger fender well. But that looks easier to fix. I’m gonna start working on it tomorrow night and I’ll film it. I’ll keep you posted.
@@FranksModelWorks yep I didn't look at the rear yet. I see people are reporting it.
Wow your younger than me, I graduated high school in 85
Have a great build.
Thanks!
Sounds like you have your work cut out for you ❤😊
I must apologize. I feel I made you suffer by sanding all those ejector pin marks. I had nothing to do with the wheel openings on the Camaro. LOL. I think you should take a sniff of mineral spirits when you mix up panel and mold lines. Or is that the cause. Anyways your video was very informative, always look foward to the next. Thanks for sharing. P.S. I didn't realize the video was over an hour.
I didn’t realize it either!
It’s my fault. I had filmed sanding them on the Mustang after I puttied them, but formatted the memory card before transferring it to my computer. It was funny footage too…I was so disappointed.
The rear opening has the same issue at the front of the opening. This is on the SS 396 green on the box 2022 issue.
It looks like the rear opening is just in the trim, and might be easier to fix than the front…the front is into the fender a little.
It’s not going to be fun to fix. Especially the front.
It was a pleasure meeting you on Saturday!
Hey Frank. I notice that the back wheel well looks a bit deformed as well. The Splash primer, does that cause ghost lines?
Do you mean what looks like a bulge where the C pillar meets the character line over the wheel well on the Mustang?
Splash paints won’t cause ghost lines, but it WILL expose poorly cleaned mold lines.
@@FranksModelWorkson the Camaro. I notice a similar issue on the right back wheel well.
@@TerryWilsonModels…Yup.its there, but looks like it’s just the trim, and not in the panel. It’s into the fender up front.