How to Install Bathtub Spout, Solder on Adapter, Delta In2ition
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- čas přidán 9. 12. 2018
- Note, many people have told us since this video was uploaded, that they are much easier to install now and push all the way through. Tools used in this video:
🛒 Delta Nura In2ition Shower Kit see in this video: amzn.to/2QMorn8
🛒 Bernzomatic TS8000BZKC Premium Trigger-Start Torch Kit : amzn.to/2Bzj80K
If you just want to get the Delta Faucet 75584SN 5-Spray/Massage In2ition shower head:
🛒amzn.to/2ScwXZP
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How to Install a Bathtub Spout, Solder on Adapter, Delta In2ition
In this video we show you how to install a Delta bathtub spout, including how to install the confusing Delta bathtub spout adapter, by soldering the tub spout adapter onto the copper pipe. We call this a copper pipe sweat installation. Once you have your tub spout adapter soldered in place, the rest of this project is just securing on the new delta tub spout diverter.
Tub shower trim kit Delta
The problem with these Delta shower kit installation instructions is their tub spout install instructions don't jive with the way the sweat on adapter actually fits onto the copper pipe, so we made this bathroom plumbing DIY video to help you out, with video tub spout installation instructions. The Delta tub shower trim kit instructions don't match the tub spout adapter.
Install bathtub spout from Delta shower kit
If you are doing a bathroom tub spout repair, you would not likely need to solder on the tub spout adapter like we did in this Delta tub spout installation instructions video. This is for your tub spout installation Delta, but these tips work on many similar tub spout in shower replacement projects.
Keep in mind if you are just performing a tub spout replacement, then you probably won't have to solder on any adapters. Install bathtub spout and test water flow, make sure there is no tub spout leak.
Tub spout install
Don't forget to replace the O-Ring on the tip of the Delta bathtub spout adapter after sweat it to the copper pipe. The O-Ring is removed before soldering the tub spout adapter to the copper tube coming out of the wall, to protect the O-Ring, which would allow a tub spout leak if the O-Ring is damaged.
tub spout installation instructions
After watching this video, you'll now be an expert on how to install a tub spout with diverter. Installing bathtub spouts is now your specialty!
Bathtub spout repair kits
Most tub spout repair kits just contain the new tub spout, and usually with the diverter built into it. Then all you need to do when installing bathtub spouts is to just screw the new bathtub onto the adapter. You'll quickly find how easy installing tub spouts really is.
How to install a tub spout
We hope you enjoyed our tub spout installation Delta video for this tub spout repair kit. You are now prepared for installing bathtub spouts on your own.
Everyone loves this Delta In2ition shower head, and kit, that I have put this Delta shower kit into many projects over the years, and I even have 2 of these installed in my house. - Jak na to + styl
Tools used in this video:
Delta Nura In2ition Shower Kit: amzn.to/2QMorn8
Bernzomatic TS8000BZKC Premium Trigger-Start Torch Kit : amzn.to/2Bzj80K
If you just want to get the Delta Faucet 75584SN 5-Spray/Massage In2ition shower head: amzn.to/2ScwXZP
The previous owner simply pushed the copper pipe into the copper line in the wall, now after tiling the wall the pipe stick out too far. There is no access from the back side. What is the solution?
@@calvincunningham8353 You can cut the excess pipe off the end with a close quarters pipe cutting tool. Is this what yo need? You are trying to make the pipe shorter?
This little czcams.com/users/postUgkxVoi3B4CB6Oygq1-vo4OTL1M_M5JkrXif tub works perfect in our 6 x 6 shower and is easy to get in and out. Also easy to drain.
At least you will have it done now!
This video saved my life! Yes, the instructions for this unit are confusing, but this cleared it all up. And the demo was perfect.
Yes, that is why we made this demo.
This is one of the absolute best videos online for this Delta adapter. Clear cut, in-the-field quality real world instructions. Bravo to you Jeff. These things can be reeeeeallly tricky because the instructions suck. I always dry fit it, or side fit it and see how it really functions because 9 times out of 10, the instructions are not going to tell you the whole story. Some adapters for Delta are like the one in this video where they have an inner race inside the adapter body where the pipe will stop and butt up against it and that's where you make the solder joint. Other Delta tub adapters allow the pipe to slide right through to the face and you solder it at the face. Use your thinker when installing these. Superb job again.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked the video!
Perfect video! I bought this exact shower kit and the instructions for installing this adapter are not correct. Thanks for confirming this and giving great information.
Great to hear!
The tube is supposed to go all the way through. Even on your video, one can see that it almost does. I bet the tube just wasn't round or there was some burr at the end. It's been my experience that seemingly identical copper fittings might fit quite differently. Fixing roundness and/or using sandpaper usually fixes the problem.
We don't know how good your solder "joint" is. You pulled at it a couple of times, but, if it holds by a sliver of solder, few years of use might break it.
Our solder joint is good it wicked in the front of the joint
Just so everyone knows. This adapter does not have a stop on the inside. You need to have the copper go all the way though as the instructions state. I will take a little fineness but it will go in. Deburring will help.
Also delta admitted when we called in that they had several complaints on that model that their machining was too tight to fit around a pipe.
This was the best video on this install. I must have watched it 10 times. Gave me confidence to tackle this. I would say that my water line did run all the way through the adapter and then I cut it to length per instructions and mine looked just like the video. Who knows. But thank you so much
Awesome, glad it worked out for you D!
I just disassembled my 20 year old Delta regular basic "plumbers go to" spout. It is assembled exactly as your directions say The pipe does stick through.. There must have been a change over the years. Possibly your directions were for the wrong model. Nice of you to share!
We did get a Delta shower valve and tub spout that the spout was wrong, did not match instructions, called Delta they did not know what we had, and I had to go back to Home Depot and buy a generic tub spout for it work.
Thank u. I was stuck on this for months lol thank GOD for your vid🙏👍
No problem 👍
Instructions were horrible. Til I seen your vid.👍👍
I’m getting water coming from the back end of the spout! What did I do wrong? I am not flush the the wall - will that cause it@? I have the new adapter with the inner o ring and the fighting screew- so I don’t need to solder ? Help
Usually when you have water coming out of the back end of the spout, it is because the o-ring that was supposed to be on the front of the pipe when you insert the spout over the pipe, is not there or maybe it got moved or something. But that oh ring is very important because it keeps the water from coming back towards the wall. if you look at the instruction manual for when you buy your new tub spout, they usually tell you where to put the black O ring
Thanks for the video. Very helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
Would of never figured it out. Thanks
Thanku Sir, God Bless you .!!
Thank you so much!
I'm watching for the spout install instructions in your video. I have not read through all the comments, but I have to wonder if there was a revision made to the spout by Delta because my copper pipe passes all the way through as well as some others have stated.
When I called Delta, they said there was an issue, so maybe they fixed it.
Mines also
Found your video to install my delta tub spout. Great video. I found though with mine that after I used sanding cloth to clean up the copper pipe, the adapter did slide all the way onto the pipe where the pipe could go all the way through.
Great tip!
It’s very tight and you need to sand every micron of burring of the copper pipe but it absolutely goes all the way through that adapter. So if you put it up against what seems like a stop before you sand and work it over it’s gonna cockeyed most likely. You’ll see that the areas inside the adapter before it steps down in size is noticeably bigger than your copper tubing.
I have copier fittings that don't have that much trouble fitting onto copper pipes
Tube does go through the adapter on the Delta spout I purchased just like the instructions stated. Check before you cut off the pipe!
Yes the adapter is designed for the tube to go through, for many people the copper tube does go through the adapter and you cut off the excess. We cut the tube, we reamed the inside of the tube, we chamfired the outside of the tube, it still would not go through. Called Delta, they said they had received numerous complaints from other installers about this. The way we soldered this tube is correct, because it is the same way you solder it if the tube passes through it, because you only solder where they connect and the solder sucks into the channel via capillary action.
jeffostroff Jeff, listen to me. Where the pipe pushes through the adapter is where the diameter reduces for the proper clearance between the adapter and the pipe. This is where the adapter is supposed to be soldered. The adapter is loose in the back and tighter in the front by the o-ring, which is where the solder is drawn into. Trust me, I’m only trying to help you. You are making contact between the pipe and adapter, but not as much as you should be, because the design calls for the pipe to be inside of the reduced diameter portion of the adapter, not butting up against it, which is how it ended up on this install in your video. Take care and I hope you understand what I am trying to explain to you.
@@rrhistorian8828 I know what you're saying, but it simply would not go into the adapter. We have been monitoring it, and so far no problems. Is it an ideal connection? No. But the pipe does go all the way into the adapter up to the point of the stop, and we fluxed and got appropriate Capillary Action inside that area, so it is holding it real good on the pipe, even though you don't think it is, you're looking at it from an academic standpoint, we were boots on the ground and had at least a 1/2" deep capillary channel filled with solder. Believe me we tugged and tugged on it to test it before sliding the spout on. It's rock solid. We hope the next time we encounter one of these that Delta got their act together and we no longer have a bad one. Remember these adapters are made for Delta in China, known for horrible tolerances, and no amount of deburring or chamfiring on our part would get that pipe through there.
jeffostroff Amen to that, Jeff. It is extremely unfortunate that Delta went to China along with most of Moen. Even Grohe is starting with inferior quality faucets made outside of Germany. I long for the good ole days of quality made products.
I got super confused when I couldn't slip it all the way on like the instructions show. Thanks for the video
Yes this is exactly why we made this video So glad I was able to help you.
No need to calk the overflow.
Never use silicone for a finish if you don't have too.
It will look bad when mold grows and you cland clean it.
Use silocnized acrylic calk.
Cleans up with water as you apply it and is easier to clean it up next year.
I just used "lip install" you put the adapter on, which has an inner oring already, then just set screw it to the pipe. Then screw on the nozzle. Works fine
Thanks!
Can you please make a video on how to install the whole thing please I just bought the same one but the valve part I don’t know how to install
We missed out on that one, the plumber showed up to solder in the valve while I was away on an emergency that afternoon. It's very tricky so best to have a plumber do that part if you've never done it. I think they charged about $150 to do it, 90 minutes work.
Thank you bro ,good video
Thank you too for watching!
Well I don’t know if this video is dated or what but my brass fitting did NOT have an internal stop. As a result my calculations were off because The 1/2 copper pipe pushed right on through. Luckily my pipe was still long enough to solder and tighten the spout. My advise is be sure to check your fitting to see if it has a stop or not.
Brian, yes we filmed this video last November. We are just now starting to hear of others like yourself who found the the pipe correctly slide through. I do know that I had made Delta Customer care aware of the situation and they told me they heard of others with the same issue, so maybe they straightened it out.
Great tutorial thanks!
Glad to help and thanks for watching
The tolerance here is very close and mine did fit. The fit inside the larger diameter is very loose and I would not solder it like it’s done in the video. If mine didn’t fit, I’d carefully cut another piece of copper (don’t clamp down too hard on your pipe cutter when you cut it) and then if that didn’t work, I’d contact Delta. There’s really not much water pressure on this unless the diverter is to the shower and the shower head is turned off but if someone tried to lift themself (kid) by the spout it could break the soldered connection. Also, if you’ll notice, the O ring side has a bevel. It might be easier to push copper pipe through the brass fitting on the O ring side all the way to the elbow and then solder it to the elbow. You can cut more copper than you need and cut off the excess when you’ve slid the fitting where you want it when you’re ready to install the spout. Then cut off the excess. My two cents.
I just hope the next one has better tolerance, this was terrible, but at least it is still working up and holding.
This is what I have on my current pipe sticking out. Soldered on just like that. I need to now remove it because the new spout I picked out uses a different style install method. How do I remove this piece now that its soldered on?
Aaron, you have to heat up the tip of this device, wherever you see the solder connection, heat it up with a small torch and after about 30 seconds or so, twist it off with a pair of pliers or channelocks.
I had same problem at first, but after I fluxed it it slipped through that tight spot so I guess it just needed some lubrication. I then took it off and tried it again and couldn't get it to fit. Took me about 5 minutes to get it back on but it does fit with some type of lube and alot of finangeling. Good luck people 🤪
Yes they should never be that much trouble
On my Delta Shower Kit, I triple checked for an out of round copper tube, check for burrs and sanded the tube. Nothing worked. Then successfully completed per this video. I'm guessing Delta has a quality control issue and some adapters are out of spec.
That it what we assumed also, since others reported they had no problems. Called Delta, they said they got lots of complaints about this part and likely had a bad batch of them.
Would you happen to know where I can get a Bradley facet unit and plate for my home shower? Supposedly I need this for my shower and a Moen or any other will not work. They seem impossible to find!
Did you try the company directly? www.bradleycorp.com/product-category/showers
@@jeffostroff I will thank you!
Just a heads up, I thought the brass piece wouldn’t slide over the copper pipe in my tub too. But after cleaning up the burred edge with a file it slid right on. Other than that thank you for the excellent tips on install.
On ours, the problem keeping the pipe from going all the way through was the built in stop that is engineered into the center of the brass piece.
Yeah, my brass piece was identical to the one in the video with the “stop” built in. It’s such tight tolerance that the smallest lip from the pipe cutter on the copper was causing it to bottom out. As soon as I removed the burr from the copper it slid right on. Who knows maybe I just got lucky lol
That “stop” is where the inside diameter of the adapter decreases to create the correct clearance between the adapter and the 1/2” copper pipe. This area is where the solder is drawn into using capillary action. I’ve been installing these for 30 years and I guess the Chinese shit quality is showing now. Concerning the person you spoke to at Delta, they have NEVER installed one of these. You’d be better off asking someone at the supermarket for advice. What has happened to these companies? When we called years ago, you got someone who has been there, done that, nowadays, you get someone who has no plumbing experience at all and can’t help you. Customer service at Delta has become glorified parts order personnel at best. If it weren’t for the supply houses I deal with, I would have no recourse.
Hello! Thank you for sharing this video. I just purchased a Delta Spout and my water comes out just like yours in the video at 9:23. Is this normal for Delta products? How can I fix this to make the water flow more smoothly and not so rough. I have searched the internet and can't find anything. The plumber said that is was just how delta products are made, but I refuse to believe that.
Good question, I don't know. Could be the inside shape of the pipe, or the gate when you push knob down, maybe it is still slightly blocking the pipe and changing the water flow pattern.
If I only have 1.5 inches of pipe sticking out from finished surface is it okay to slide the adapter on all but a half inch so that the gasket reaches the smooth part of the inside of the faucet? If not the gasket hits in the threads on the inside of the faucet and does not create the seal
es you should be OK, look at 4:20 the green diagram shows you need from 1/4" to 1" from finished wall before the adapter needs to star to appear on the pipe. Then once in place, the water end of the pipe should be no more than 3 1/2" from the wall.
A plumber installed for me and soddered whatever, I didn't see. Now the spout is about .25 away from wall, not flush, and he has filled with caulk. This does not seem correct at all. Can you advise???
That seems wrong. Is this a licensed plumber or a handyman? The spout is supposed to be screwed in all the way until it tightens against the wall, the you apply silicone around it, leaving the bottom open from 4 o'clock to 8 o'clock. I hop they used silicone instead of caulk.
thanks for the video. How do you join the shower head arm to the copper pipe?
Daniel, it's sort of like Luke Skywalker getting that torpedo into that port in the trench on the Death Star. It's all done by feeling it. You first wrap the Teflon tape around the threads, then insert the shower head arm into opening all the way back and feel for it contacting the threaded opening, then tighten it down.
@@jeffostroff do you mean there is not soldering? just pressing it to the copper pipe?
@@DanieldelCastillo_DELCASDA If you are referring to the shower arm that comes out of the wall about 7' off the floor that 1 gets screwed in to the pipe that's in Inside the wall that you can't see but you have to feel for it.
I just installed this I did not have the stop but when I turn the shower head on I get that leak from behind the tub spout. O Ring does not look damaged, I tried teflon taping on the threads, tfe paste, tried a thicker O Ring but it was too thick for the spout to go over. Any suggestions for how to stop the leak would be greatly appreciated.
Is the distance from the wall correct for the length of the pipe? Is the spout nice and snug against the wall? If not, the length of pipe is not correct, and water is getting past the O-Ring. You might have a defective pull rod on the end of the spout.
I had the same issue!
Great video! The house I just purchased has this faucet. When I turn on the shower, a steady stream of water leaks out of the tiny hole underneath it (mentioned at 9:26, except yours doesn't leak!). How do I fix that? Thanks!
Melanie, if you have water coming down the pipe at the wall, there are 2 main causes. 1) Someone forgot to wrap Teflon tape around the copper pipe before they screwed on the tub spout. 2) Someone forgot to make sure the black O-ring is in place at the tip of the brass adapter where the tub spout screws on. Or, a bonus #3: that O-Ring might have worn down, allowing the water to run back to the wall. You'll see on the video at 7:00, I covered this and show you where the Teflon tape and the black O-ring are supposed to be. One other reason I just thought of Bonus #4 reason, if the installer cut the copper pipe too long out of the wall and the tub spout did not screw in all the way, so it was not water sealed, and water is leaking out. Let me know which one you find.
Thank you so much for the speedy response! When I initially took it off, there had been Teflon tape. I put more on (went around 2 times) but it was still leaky. Should I go around more than that?
The O-Ring is in place and appeared to be in good shape.
Regarding bonus reason #4, it seems like it is flush against the wall when screwed in.
@@qwertyer5 Don't need to go around more than 3 times with the tape. Something on that installation is not doing its job, and it's either the tape or the O-ring, since those are the points where it gets sealed. Maybe look at the female threads inside the tub spout. Are they cracked? Are they making full contact when screwed in? Try another tub spout if you have one even from another cheapie kit just to see, they should
all work the same as most require a certain distance range from the wall for the threads to work. So also, measure the distance from the finished tile wall to the tip of the threaded copper pipe and see if that is what the manufacturer requires.
I think I may have found the issue - the copper pipe extends beyond the adapter. Would cutting it off (as described in the instructions) possibly fix this? I took a picture but I don’t think I can post it here.
If you look at 4:18 into the video, you'll see that green drawing I overlaid on top of the video, that shows what your tolerances need to be. My copper pipe was exactly 2" off the tile wall as you'll see me mention several seconds later in the video. So, before soldering I dry fitted the brass part onto the copper pipe, and tried to determine if that was the correct protrusion length of the pipe from the wall, depending on where I will solder the brass connector. The green drawing I show there, it shows that your copper pipe can be up to 3 1/2" max off the wall, but also within that constraint, the rear threaded section must be within 1/4" to 1" off the wall. I had determined that 2" of copper pipe would do the trick for us, it keeps the pipe under the 3 1/2" limit from the wall, and also allows the rear threads to be between 1/4" and 1" off the wall. If you then look at 7:05, you'll see the side view, the brass part appears to have the rear threads at about 3/4" off the tile wall, satisfying that required measurement from the green drawing of 1/4" to 1" range off the tile wall.
Check the bag the spout was in for the correct copper instructions. The internal o-ring must be removed before inserting the copper pipe in the adapter.
That is where we got the instructions
@@jeffostroff I was just wondering because the instructions in the Owners Manual didn't state to remove the adapter's internal o-ring, only the external. We found the correct instructions on the plastic bag the spout was in.
I install Ashlyn tub and shower I didn’t soilder the tub spout And the tub and shower runs at the same time and we left the shower spout
Sound slike the tub spout is out too far and not doing a good enough job of closing off the tub pipe so the water is not diverting as much to the shower like it should be.
Thanks! I had to adapter turned backwards, 😂
Glad I could help!
We just had this installed in a new bathroom. Water pressure is very low and fault has water coming out when we turn the shower head on. Any idea what could cause this and how to get better water pressure in faucet and shower head?
Sounds like a problem in how the faucet was installed, and whether it was threaded on all the way so that the front of the pipe meets the gasket
There is no stop inside the adaptor. If you're trying to fit a cut pipe through and it won't clear that last little bit (and you don't see any burrs), you probably have a little lipping on the pipe caused by the pipe cutter. A few careful passes with some emory cloth did the trick for me.
I did a lot of deburring there on that pipe and chamfered it as well, nothing worked.
Jeff, how high do you typically put the spout and water controller above the tub?
I don't normally change what is there, but faucet is usually 12 to 18 inches above the rim of the tub. Tub spout is usually 4 inches above the rim of the tub. In a shower stall, the faucet is higher 48 inches off the floor.
@@jeffostroff ya I am doing a tub/shower combo. So spout around 4 inches above rim and faucet 12 to 18?
Can you show the range of the hot and cold knob please
too late, this was filmed a year ago.
Hi Jeff, what if the guy that installed this didn't cut the pipe and now the spout isn't flush against the wall. Is there a way to un-solder it?
Samantha, yes you can remove the tub spout, then try to figure out how much pipe you need to cut. then you apply torch heat to the pipe adapter and unsolder it, clean the end of the pipe where the solder is, and then cut down the pipe the leng that you need it to be shortened.
@@jeffostroff Thank you!!! Subscriber for life!
Hello Jeff
On my Delta Monitor 1400 Series Tub Spout Adapter, I have an O-ring on the outside AND on the inside (same side).
When installing the adapter, the pipe would ‘stop’ there and not be able to inserted fully.
I put lube on the inside O-ring and now it slips in.
I also have a set screw on the outside of my adapter.
My question(s) is this:
1. If I take the outside 0-ring off to solder the adapter, wouldn’t the heat damage the inside 0-ring?
2. When threading the tub spout onto the adapter, is the adapter supposed to go all the way into the faucet until it reaches that stopping lip on the inside of the faucet, or do I just leave the 1’’ space from the wall/threads of adapter, and hand tighten until it’s against the finished wall.
3. Is the outside 0-ring capable of sealing off the spout on the inside? I can’t imagine that because it seems that the 0-ring seal would be loose UNTIL I tighten the spout past the inside threads of the spout so the outside 0-ring reaches the inner chamber of the faucet, which seems a little smaller and smoother. If that is the case, wouldn’t I need to make sure I measure where I put that adapter on the pipe, ensuring that the 0-ring end reaches that inner chamber AND I can have the spout firmly against the wall?
WHEW! Lots of questions!
Thank you for the videos.
Look forward to your reply.
Craig
Craig, not sure about the inner O-Ring, I have not seen one there before. Best to pull up the instructions from Delta and see if they tell you to remove the ring. I can't imagine any O-ring being safe near torch heat. I try to set the distance of the adapter so that when the spout is threaded on, the spout tightens against the back wall. Again, the instructions should give you are drawing detailing how far the front edge of the adapter needs to be off the wall. The O-ring is really there to seal the adapter to the spout so water cant leave the adapter and crawl back toward the wall, then you have a drip down the wall. this is why it's critical to stay within the length range they tell you in the installation manual. Remember, they tell you the y need X amount of pipe out of the wall, the front edge of the adapter needs to be Y inches form the wall. So you have to know these numbers.
Thank you Jeff for your advice.
I’m reading through the instructions which look pretty much like yours, and there’s nothing mentioning that inner 0-ring.
I’m calling Delta.
Appreciate your advice and suggestions.
Keep up the good work!
@@craiganthony4617 Sounds like you had a slip fit adapter. That is made with an inner o ring and set screw and with that you do not solder it if you mount using that method. If you remove it you can mount the same as the video
N the instructions it says you can not use pex from the valve down to the spout is this correct or could you use pex with a 90 and then come out with copper with a shark bite 90 then copper out from the wall 2 inches thanks in advance
A bit late, but you cant use pex because its flexible and will not support the spout. also a sharkbite connector will not stop the pipe from roataing so it would be tought to screw the spout on.
Curt Swearengin Pex sucks.
Shark bite fittings are garbage and will erode internally based on how much (chloride I think it is) in some municipal water systems. If using them, DO NOT hide them in walls or cover them up. I've replace many of these fittings over the last 10 years due to leaks. Only use as a LAST resort. And yes, if you aren't anchoring the tubing from the valve with a wingback 90, don't use pex tubing off the spout.
The Copper Pipe fits through the collar just like in the directions, but not if the pipe has a lip on it.
We deburred th epipe and it still did not work. We looked at the roundoing of th epipe, still would not work. Delta told us they were getting calls from others with this issue too.
Can I use the existing valve in the wall or no
If you use the existing valve in the wall, you have to buy a new fauctet and trim kit made for that valve. and you might want to install a new cartridge that matches the old one. But if you want to use this Delta system shown in this video, you have to buy the valve that is made for it. This is why we prefer to buy it all as one kit as shown in this video, so you're gauranteed that you have the correct valve for the shower system.
Confused by directions - I can remove the external O ring as directed for soldering - but there is also an internal O ring that I would think will be destroyed by the solder heat. My adapter allows the copper pipe to pass completely through the spout, and it has a set screw to tighten against the copper pipe once it's in position. Is this a "solderless" adapter with outdated instructions?
The best thing to do is to look up and install video for your particular model if you have a set screw it would seem like there isn't any soldering involved
Thanks for the video. We bought this and are/were baffled as to how to install it.
I do wish you would have shown the cutting of the pipe and other details that this amateur needs to see.
Darned if I do, darned if I don't. Trolls start complaining when I add "too much detail" or make my videos "too long", or I "talk too much"
Is there another adapter that can be used that doesn't require soldering?
Yes, many aftermarket tub spouts have adapters that fit over the end of the copper pipe, then you thread the tub spout on the adapter. The adapters are usually plastic.
@@jeffostroff Thank you!
Well. Done! Delta directions regarding that soldering the copper are terrible!
Yes that is why Uploaded the video glad to help out
does the copper pipe have to be a certain width
Standard 1/2" copper
@@jeffostroff appreciate it
how did you take the o ring out from the inside
@@theserg8069 We gently removed that O ring by using a small flat head screw driver to get underneath it and then lift it up and out of the groove.
Sorry mates, the info in this video is incorrect. The brass adapter will indeed slip all the way over 1/2" copper(red or blue) as prescribed by Delta. If you are having trouble getting past what Jeff refers to as the "stop," you need to deburr your pipe end. Sweating the adapter on with just the tip of the pipe in contact will result in leaks and/or the tub spout may come completely off.
Sorry mates, Ryan is wrong. The adapter was designed by Delta for the tube to go through, for many people the copper tube does go through the adapter and you cut off the excess shown in the directions. We cut the tube, we reamed the inside of the tube, we chamfired the outside of the tube, and it still would not go through. Called Delta, they said they had received numerous complaints from other installers about this, and certain batches got out with flaws in it. They said the way we soldered this tube is correct, because it is the same way you solder it if the tube passes through it, because you only solder where the tube connects with the adapter and the solder sucks into the channel via capillary action.
I don’t recommend people do it this way follow the instructions. I did exactly as video states and leaks because there is a large gap to fill with solder. After reading comments it does slip through with flux as instructions say. Now I have to remove after cutting pipe too short.. more headaches.
Numerous other people also reported theirs would not go through no matter what
There's a way to do almost everything else in plumbing without solder - except this.
Well they do make PEX versions
We had our Delta tub faucet and shower head installed by a contractor a month ago. Today, I was cleaning the spout and discovered that it easily turns 90 degrees either way. What error was made in installation and what is the best way to fix the problem without creating a new problem? Nothing would surprise me as this contractor made several other costly mistakes. We have not noticed any leaks in this area (unlike other areas he worked on). We did insist that he install an access panel behind the shower plumbing (after he removed our old panel and drywalled over the area). Thank you for this video.
2 possibilities, 1) if the tub spout threads onto the pipe, then you just need to tighten it more against the wall, and when you get it nice and snug, apply silicone all around it except for the 6 o'clock position to allow any water that might leak from inside to escape out the bottom. 2) If the tub spout is set in place with a set screw on the bottom of the spout, find out what type of driver you need, and tighten it down nice and snug.
@@jeffostroff Thank you for the quick response. It threads onto the pipe just like your video. It can't be tightened a full revolution, so I probably just need to leave it and add silicone as you suggest. Will the silicone hold it into place? Is there a possible reason the plumber didn't apply silicone when he installed it?
@@lsackett7586 Was he a real plumber? A Licensed plumber? Either way I have seen both plumbers and non plumbers overlook this important aspect of water proofing your bathroom shower tile installation. Some are just stupid and don't know, others are too lazy to care.
@@jeffostroff We used a highly rated licensed contractor for a remodel and the plumber was one of their licensed subcontractors. Sadly, he made mistakes which the contractor had to compensate us for including a serious water leak, so this oversight isn’t surprising. Will the silicone hold the spout in place even if it isn't completely tight? Thanks again for your advice. Much appreciated!
@@lsackett7586 Yes, silicone is very strong. Lots of cabinet installers use beads of it along the ends of kitchen cabinets where they meet the wall, and they will support the cabinets even when the screws are pulled out.
It's crazy cuz all of you say that it don't slip all the way cuz mine did lol I guess I have the only one with no fabric defect
mine slipped through as well
Jeff, you either need to remove this video or put a BIG DISCLAIMER that the new fittings will fit all the way through, and as others have mentioned, perhaps a pipe was not perfectly round. My fitting (September 2021) fit all the way through. Thanks!
Thanks for the tip just added it
Please do NOT follow the advice in this video! Follow the instructions provide with the spout. You may have to dress the end of the copper tube.
Dress the end of the copper tube? No am,king any sense.
1) You didn't show how to remove the excess solder.
2) Apparently you don't know how irritating it is to have your video interrupted multiple times with your site advertising!
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Number one I didn't show how to remove any excess solder because there isn't supposed to be any excess solder lol. You are supposed to put enough solder that it doesn't run and drip or collect up. 2nd of all are you referring to the commercials that CZcams that puts on top of our videos? None of us has control over the commercials that CZcams sticks on videos. Do you call the TV stations and complain about the commercials on your favorite TV shows as well?
Nice double holes in wall for the spout, soon as I seen that got a thumbs down
not sure what you're talking about, double holes in the wall
After looking at this again, I can clearly see it did NOT hit the “stop”. When you put it on it slid about 1/8” onto the narrower opening at 4:05.
You should take this video down. You’re misrepresenting what happened.
Clearly you are blind not only did it hit the stop but we soldered the front of the adapter on to the front of the pipe where it hit the stop that period if it had not soldered it would not have worked. You need to take your comment down.
jeffostroff you jammed the copper pipe in a few time to show the tapered down portion and said it hit the stop. Then when you inserted the fitting at 4:05 it went past the “stop” and onto the fitting by about an 1/8”. That’s where you soldered it. It didn’t “hit the stop”. That’s my point. There was something wrong with your copper pipe. It was probably out of round.
jeffostroff and why do you automatically assume it was a faulty Delta product? Why couldn’t it be your faulty copper pipe?
I don’t work for Delta but I can almost guarantee you that something was wrong with your pipe. Copper is very soft and easy to crimp. Did you try in on another piece of copper? I would have contacted Delta and got a replacement before I did it your way.
jeffostroff what if someone is not able to get it on more than a 1/16” on the fitting? They solder it on and later someone diverts to the shower and turns off the shower head. All of a sudden you’ve got 60 or more psi on that spout. You should take this video down.
@@stevewithers3532 After numerous attempts to ream the pipe, and chamfir the pipe, and the pipe was perfectly shaped because I could insert copper fittings on the end of it, we concluded the Delta product was defective. The pipe was not defective, as you know, if the ipe is even a frog hair out of round, you'll never get a copper fitting to slide on that's how tight the tolerance is. Also, like I mentioned before, when I called Delta, they mentioned a number of complaints have come in about it too. With all these people plumbers calling in with complaints do you really think all those pipes are out of round? I have never found an out of round pipe after cutting and reaming properly. Why do you automatically assume it was all of us with this issue not knowing what were doing with the pipes? Why do you assume all these pipes all over the place are out of round? the odds just don't support your theory. I've cut many pipes over the years and sweated on fittings with no problems, so an out of round pipe is highly unlikely. Plus the fact that we used the adjustable wrench trick with the 3 point contact method to "round out the pipe in case it was out of round", and that had no effect either. In short, our pipes were not out of round.
Biggest mistake ever
Over 12 minutes? And irritating.
Lots of people found it useful. It's always the impatient people that don't want to take the time to learn something right who make all the mistakes. Then end up wasting more time watching more 12 minute videos.
@@jeffostroff If it works for some, great. I saw the same instructions in a video that lasted 1.5 minutes.
Thanku Sir, God Bless you .!!
Glad to help!