3 Ways to Prevent Your Engine from Blowing Up!
Vložit
- čas přidán 7. 06. 2024
- In this week's video we discuss the top 3 things that can mean the difference between a happy high performance engine and one that's blown up!
Guess what? We sell parts and MotoIQ merchandise! Now you can buy all the same aftermarket parts we use on our project cars and features from the brands we trust! Buying your aftermarket parts from us is the easiest way you can help help support our channel and make sure we can continue making content like this! Check it out at shopmotoiq.com!
LINKS:
BUY MotoIQ Merchandise: shopmotoiq.com/collections/ap...
SHOP for parts: shopmotoiq.com/
READ MORE on MotoIQ.com: www.motoiq.com/
FOLLOW US on Instagram: / motoiq
LIKE US on Facebook: / motoiq - Auta a dopravní prostředky
“Don’t overheat!” Amen to that. I’m tempted to install the largest oil and trans coolers but my engine only makes 185hp…..
Can't emphasize the fuel commentary enough. I always tell customers to put a little 100 octane in at the track as insurance on their pump gas cars. Whether its fuel starvation, hot temps, or some other unseen circumstance, a little extra octane is cheap insurance. Also, the effects of g-forces on fuel system performance. There are stock cars that will starve the fuel pump if you run them on race tires (Honda S2000 under 1/2 a tank for example). Recently had a customer with a 4-figure hp V8 setup. Didn't have issues for a long time until he made a full throttle acceleration pass on sticky tires with 1/8 of a tank of fuel in a stock fuel tank. The end result was ugly. First (and probably last) time he ever made a full hit on low fuel.
The above is true info from a true calibrator!
Fuel slosh around corners is annoying as hell. Even doing some pulls at a low tank has a risk on its own
Thanks for this comment man I’ll keep this in mind
Church is one of the best tuners I know and the local one we use almost exclusively.
A surge tank or hydromat fuel sock from Holly can help from g forces when in a long sweeping turn like some tracks have to keep fuel constantly feed the fuel without starvation.
I love Mike's low pulse matter of fact delivery.
If anything Upgrading your coolant system should be one of your fist mods. Relatively easy to do and basically no downsides.
Once again, Mike is dropping dimes. I feel like I can build engines for a living after watching his instructional videos. Keep ‘em’ coming Mike, so bummed you guys got rid of the B13.
As a subi owner I greatly appreciate this video
First thing I do when watching Mike’s video..is survey the cars in the background. They always have gems just chilling in back. Like that Em1 👍
I do that too Lol
I could (have?) listen to Mike talk about engines for hours. Great videos!
This man responds to mostly all the comments asking questions. Thats the nicest thing ive ever seen. I appreciate it being able to look at comments and learn more. Cooling def helps. I have a full size rad but only had space for one fan that fits half of it. This makes me want to look into a way to get another fan next to it
If you’re not experiencing cooling issues at low speeds or while idling, there’s no need for another rad fan. At higher speeds, the natural airflow far exceeds what a fan can provide. In fact, a fan can actually impede airflow at high speed.
@TranceFur yes sir. I was dealing with overheat conditions I stop and go traffic in the summer. I added another spal fan to the front of the radiator as a pusher that I have on its own switch and problem solved.
Couldn't agree more about finding good tuners.
I did business with one of the big ones for Chevy years back and he started telling me all kinds of things that didn't make sense. But with what little I did understand in the data logs I saw the engine pulling huge amounts of timing.
Turns out they were doing exactly that, pumping the boost, advancing the timing and damping the knock control system.
I ended up taking the hptuners license I paid for and doing it myself. It took years of reading and learning and more school to really start understanding things front to back. One thing I've learned is most companies just talk peak power... Rarely is that peak sustainable. The things that made my car faster were not at the peak of the power curve.... They are on both sides of it.
I didn't end up with their peak power numbers, but I did end up with a long lived engine that is incredibly fun to drive.
Damn Mike, you finally convinced me that oil temperature is important beyond just keeping oil pressure where you want it. I had never thought about the temperatures of the bearings. Thank you!
Can’t upvote this video enough, the absolute GOAT of engine knowledge! Thanks dad
Well explained. I put a 5 stage dry sump on my 1000+ HP 6-71 blown nitrous Chevy I6 292 in my 53 Chevy 3100. I think it was money well spent. Thank you for your time.
So much valueable information! Thank you MotoIq!
Amazing and very helpful content MK! 👏🏾 👏🏾👏🏾
I Freaking love this guy extremely informative and smiles the entire time!
Super practical and informative! Thank you!
wow, so many tips and lessons based on real life experiences. Thank you!!!
Thank you for another great video. I learned a lot.
Thanks for another great video!
Love you, mike!! Diamonds of knowledge. ❤🤙
Great video. Highly detailed with great info. 👍
Another great video from Mike & the MotoIQ team! Happy new year!
When Mike talks, I listen! Another super informative video!
Great information
Great tips!!
Great video, thank you! Heat, knock and oil for anyone that wants the TLDR version - but highly recommend listening to all the possible issues and solutions.
Thank you so much for these videos!! I blew my first engine. After these videos I’m confident I won’t make the same mistakes! 🤙🏽💯
Good 👍 ASS job Brudda ✌.
Thank 👍 you!
Excellent information well said .on my 2.1 stroker that uses e20 from time to time i change oil every 2000 miles at max with Motul oil . Some thing else also a good insurance is a good after market ecu . I always say good build motor with good brains and good tuner you sorted .
The most relaxing and informative voice in motorsport mechanics.
Fantastic info as always. 👍
Keep em coming mike
always watching this guy to learn a lot!
Wondered why my car wasnt making full power on corners bro your a treasure trove of information thank you very much
Golden video !
Also 13:21 installed colder plugs last year too
I’m a simple man. I see Mike. I click.
He's my favorite. I could listen to him talk all day. The man's also a genius.
Gayyyyy
Mike, YOU'RE AWESOME!!!!
I don't race anymore, but I still for drive for a living. I'm a motor courier in Colorado. I just wanted to say thank you for all the valuable information.
It's quite simple. Mike speaks and I listen!
Man love this guy calm energy, could be cursing me out for some reason but will sound the same way he's speaking now. Lol
Am new to your channel.....but I like the information your given out......I want to turbo my honda for a daily drive but I don't know where to start as in to bring it to am in south carolina Summerville to be precise
This is gold and money in our pocket for free. Thanks！
Well said man. Free knowledge is hard to come by, especially with actual evidence and astute observation on the side.
Learned the hard way with the fuel part of this video. Ran fine for Dyno pulls. Hit the dunes and after about 5 mins of pushing it hard a fuel injector died and leaned out a cylinder. Currently doing a rebuild 😊
Don’t set your hp goals too high on a build it wears out the motor faster.
Autopsy video sounds GREAT! I'm always most confused about what happened first when the big end of the rod is still on the crank without significant bearing damage, the piston is completely destroyed, and the beam of the rod is broken. In that case it's super hard for me to know if the rod bent first, thus breaking out the bottom of the piston via sideloading, or if the bottom of the piston basically pulled apart, thus letting the small end and wrist pin clang around in the bore until the rod gets bent and broken... Anything you can offer to assist with that sort of problem solving would be fantastic.
It kinda depends on what the parts look like. Could be detonation, exceeding the rods or pistons strength, could be sticking in the bore due to bad clearances, heat or detonation or a combination of those. Clogged injector causing all of the above if the other cylinders are fine
Great video. Just one thing to add, not all light ends in fuel "light off easier." We blend a lot of butane into fuel during the winter months, but its actually high in octane. Pentane is a little heavier but the octane qualities aren't nearly as good.
A very good informative video, definitely would like to see a autopsy of a blown motor.
Check out Humble Mechanic; he's done some teardowns of blown engines over the years.
"I Do Cars" as well
@@NotAMotoVlog @nickpappas4133 hundreds of engine teardowns
Love your videos, MIke! Now I know how to prevent the blowing up of my new motor, Lol!!
Over heated my Honda 2.3. Lower hose clamp broke. It shut off, no damage it seems.
Had good luck with synthetic valvoline, only got the synthetic high mileage as they were out of the regular Dino juice. Engine stopped burning oil. Guessing it cleaned the rings enough to start working properly.
Amsoil won project farm oil tests. I always questioned their marketing as oil is still black magic. But that made me see them in a different light to try them.
Dave from cryotune arvada Colorado he has tuned cars for pikes peak hill climb very nice guy my 05 legacy gt feels happy not just faster love mike on moto iq I learn so much
learnt so much
Just past the thermostat is good.
* me listening to this in my stock 2012 Mazda3 * WRITE THAT DOWN WRITE THAT DOWN
Mike reminds us of the ripple effect, over and over and over, LOL! The amount of info and great advice in this video is overwhelming. 29:00 It's why I trust him... Mike really knows how to squash the "urge to modify" in me, lol. Hats off to all the passionate car enthusiast at there that place the order for that large turbo kit or set of MT drag radials, hahaha. You are about to go down that rabbit hole! ;)
God this guy is good 😮.
Thanks for straight knowledge
I like this guy
I depend on good machining, assembly, well inspected or new parts, good oil and a rev limiter on my little 318
It’s very important to cover the basic of protecting an engine. As you said, cooling is the key. One good example from Subaru is EJ20R EJ20H EJ206 EJ208. It’s sequential twin turbo and the primary turbo is always boosting. The engine gets hot all the time and cause pings and spin the big end bearing. Especially cylinder number 4. Because it’s hot, oil goes much faster. That’s why so many EJ20 twin turbo died. But if you take care of cooling and fuel routing, you can make it much more reliable
I can listen to Mike talk about cars all day!
Consider doing a podcast? :)
Great video and information! I'm wondering what's your personal opinion on royal purple HPS? I broke the motor in on RP break in oil and used the HPS 5w30 ever since. Also, referring to your commentary on bearings, what's your opinion on King race Pmax bearings? I love your content always learning something new!
That is good oil, we use King as our first choice in bearings. If King is not available we use ACL
The man 💪🏼
Thank you so much for this informative video. I have a Whipple supercharged 2020 mustang GT (stock internals) running only on 660whp at 11psi and people have told me I’ve gone overboard spending on preventative measures (low temp thermostat, interchiller, engine and trans oil coolers, two oil separators). Next step is getting a bigger fuel system for e85. The car is used for 30-130mph roll races once per month at a local legal track. I change oil every 3000 miles and check fluid levels obsessive ly. I just don’t ever want to experience an engine failure.
Low tension rings have left the chat :'(
Racing radiator? Higher output water pump/oil pump with frequent oil changes etc tune has to be perfect and set for safety
@@tri00azerath so basically should upgrade rods and pistons/rings?
@@CoyoteAUS master tech buddy at Ford is seeing TONS of failed 5.0 rings, and some heads, on stock tune/street driving. They use really weak low tension rings to reduce friction for emissions. It's especially common on the 3rd gen 5.0s
@@tri00azerath mm, not good, thanks for the heads up. Hopefully lower temps that I’m running with helps prolong their use by date.
Thanks, for all the knowledge. I hope you have a wonderful new year, and hope for more content in the next year. Will you ever present any information on Fa20 platform or even an accusump and oil starvation..much appreciated
FA20 is coming.
@@motoiqDoes that also include the fa24? I know the gr86 guys are dealing with engine failures due to oil starvation.
@@thegirthquake8574 we have built a few stock FA24's for the 86 cup guys, but those engines have to remain stock as per the rules.
@@motoiq What have you found or done-- if anything-- regarding the oil sloshing/starvation issues? I've heard the cup cars have a 1+ quart overfill and a deeper pan.
No those engines are completely stock. No mods are allowed. We have just rebuilt them to stock spec using 100% stock parts.
Good afternoon, Sir. I like your videos very much, you are a very knowledgeable person with a great personality! I have a question about a 2002 Porsche 996. Can you recommend an aftermarket oil separator?
Porsche Motorsports makes an improved one.
Feels like "I do cars" and you could do a fun colab on an autopsy. As a gen 2 BRZ owner, I think I'll add an Accusump as part of my "insurance policy". Though I love less sticky tires, so I will likely not have the issues people speak of.
Thank you for sharing so much!
i would add the IAG pan baffle and pickup we talk about in some of our newer videos.
Totally hit it out the park with this one Mike. I would have recommended some better oils like your Redline or Schaeffer's and the like, and not parts store swill, unless it's a first start after a rebuild and the oil will be swapped out after a few minutes of running anyway. For me I found an oil cooler and swirl pot were key for track temps to keep engines happy but all these suggestions are great! Next upgrade for me is a fuel surge tank so I don't have to worry about keeping the tank above 1/2 for trackdays.
Love the content man 39:37
Please make a video about the 5MGE
Mike! I missed you can't believe I was sleeping on this channel.
can you do a 3sge build video, I really enjoyed your 4age one.
when we get one in here.
MotoIq and Mike, have you all done a segment on the L15C/B Civic yet? I'd like to see your technical perspective on the 11th Gen Civic or the 1.5L engine. Thank you for all the info over the last 3 decades.
I would like to but we haven't seen one yet.
Go Mike!!!
I always recommend quality parts even if they cost more. It is better then buying cheap and having an issue later down the line or upgrading a few years later and wasting hundreds to thousands of dollars and small upgrades when you plan on upgrading later down the line.
I have a JZA80 Supra with a 2JZGTE from a JZS161 in it. I am only running about 14psi through a gen 2 Precision 6262 making about 410-420rwhp on 98ron (Australian premium) My bottom end is stock, a weird thing is I have never had really any blow by and I have a catch can I have never had to empty in 6 years. I have put a endo cam into the intake manifold to have a look at the PCV outlet and there is very little oil trace. I know my PCV is good and have direct hoses from the cam covers. Should I be worried or is this a miracle engine?
Edit: I should add, I have lots of other mods however stock untouched ecu that has been fine with it and gets a flat 12.5AFR when it comes on boost from about 2.5k to redline. I also have a oil cooler with a Mocul sandwich plate that has a built in oil thermostat with bypass. I took it to a supra club dyno day and the tuner couldn't believe how well the factory ecu had it under control with the stock 440cc injectors.
What oil cooler brand is that seems meaty and i like it. Thanks
Koyo
Warning; I have see a lot of people START overheating after installing a too-thick radiator. It blocks too much flow and cools worse. A thin efficient radiator does more than you think. The thick radiator "upgrade" is not always an upgrade.
Check fluids and maintenance
Thanks for the wonderful video! I didn't know about the spark plug heat range. There is a myth I want you to debunk, my dad has a thing about putting certain spark plug brands in certain cars, for example when I wanted to get spark plugs for my Chevy (relatively modern early 00s vehicle) there were some Bosch ones I was looking at getting, but he swayed against that, and pushed me to get something that goes with GM motors like AC Delcos, as he had some horror stories from friends of his back in the 70s-80s of people putting foreign plugs in American cars. Is this perhaps due to having wrong heat range on the plugs? I want to figure out if this is just mythos or any other actual reason why he may think that, he's not inexperienced with cars either, he built and tuned many motors in his time back in the 70s-80s
I know the Bosch platinum plugs they used to sell with the electrode flush with the porcelain were junk.
Thanks for the response! So other than just avoiding bad plugs in general like the bosch ones you mentioned, is there any considerations as to what brand plugs to use with what brand motors, or is it just a myth
I would say myth except perhaps the steps of the heat ranges could match up with certain motors better.
@@motoiqnext video should be on spark plugs. How to read them, gaps, and heat ranges. Copper vs iridium vs platinum
Good idea!
Coolant additive helps alot to along with a new coolant change, i run coolant additive on my Honda mini and golf, makes things alot cooler
Can you tell what additive it is?
I was told by a shop once that disposing of coolant with those additives is exponentially more difficult. I've also read that 70/30 water/glycol is the most ideal coolant mix for hot temps and racing - 50/50 is just standard.
@@reubenmorris487 i am always using 70/30 on my cars for lower temps but I am hoping for another -5C.
Maybe Redline Water Wetter
Great info. What psi oil pressure is ok at idle and full throttle. I have a V3 sti and noticed that it has 15 psi at idle when hot. Would you say that's normal?
Yes that is ok.
Great thanks for the reply.
My c7z is a 19 manual with factory large oil cooler. I installed the lg cooling kit that moves the heat exchanger from in front of the radiator to the sides like a zr1. I installed an automatic radiator cause they're slightly bigger than the manual radiators. Factory the car did okay but I could over heat it pretty quick maybe 10 hard minutes of track. Now I can run in 100 plus and not over heat it.
The question is on my c7z my coolant temp gets to about 220 max maybe 225 but oil gets to 270 to 275 after say 2 flying laps at cota with ambient of 80. Fast pace like 2:17ish laps on street tires. Time Attack car so usually no more than 2 flyers. Do you think that okay for that car? Not a lot I can do to help oil temps. Factory oil cooler is big. It's the cooler that the auto trans cars use for the trans. I could direct air to it better but might hurt aero performance. Big splitter, big wing car. I think you know the car if this Mike that sees this comment. On my channel if not.
I use jdp Motorsports to tune my race car. Very smart and huge amount of success in racing with gm, ford, and dodge but specifically gm gen 5 lt and ls cars
I know that Vettes always run scary oil temps. I think that is why they sometimes have bearing problems. When we race LS motors we keep the oil temps below 250. You might consider running a windage tray and crank scraper as well as a different pan.
I think another implicit benefit of a pan is greater oil capacity so that it will absorb heat better. Remember that the most expensive pans from say Stefs or even some fancy ones from Moroso are a thick aluminum and/or finned aluminum. Compared to plastic or sheetmetal, the pan is thick aluminum and will carry heat away for you.
@motoiq windage tray and crank scraper with a dry sump? Stock lt4 bottom end hate to open it up. Any other options you can think of? I know adding power is going to make it worse
Is it the OEM two-stage dry sump? If so then I think it might help. Maybe adding a bigger motorsports-style tank with an AOS in the top? Even bigger oil cooler? Improve airflow to the cooler?
I run 10w-30 vr1 in my sti. Bought it modified...
Mike Sensei...
does backfire a detonation issue like the others you described?
Thanks
Backfiring is not detonation
ive blown one engine, it was summer 34celsius warm and pipe from my radiator broke and blew up minutes later after hitting rabbit. It was too late when i saw fluid temp skyrocket
Does the oem vvti 2jzgte bearings still have lead properties in them? Is it old enough where that wasnt in effect in japan?
I usually use king bearings, but I've had no issues with the gte yet. Good to know though.
I think those engines have older style better bearings, like you we use king bearings in them instead of OEM.
I agree with Synthetics usually being better but it’s more about the additive package of the oil some of the best race oils are made from mineral oil base stocks like VR1 Brad Penn and Driven
i always use all the safeties available on the ecu, rather miss a day at track than build a new engine
everyone pushing fuel pumps but they don't put a better electrical system in which i also seen ,guy ran 2 pumps and 2 secondary when the secondary pumps kicked in the charge voltage would drop to 11v
also don't discount a transmission and diff coolers always a must if you will be running high loads through the driveline
That is true about power to the pumps, I should have said something as that is a common issue too.
I had my built k20c1 predetonate from what I believe were NGK ruthenium spark plugs that the strap broke into the engine. It may not have been colder plugs. Maybe I should of stuck with one step colder iridium plugs.
yeah super common mistake
ruthenium ignites better but runs a lil hotter than iridium I think
Fully serious ruthenium plugs are a good design, just get the right heat range.
What do you think of the stock evo x oil coolers?
Not even close to good enough for track driving.
muchas gracias sus videos han sido muy útiles soy de costa Rica me a pasado 2 veces que miSR20 se a querido detonar por un tema de computadora no le tenia una programable sino que le usaba un chip Troyano a ora voy a empezar a usar una programable algún numero de Whatssap donde puede escribirles o llamar para ver posibles compras de productos gracias.
Will an accusump help with oil consumption where it add oil when it senses the oil level lowers every time you go wot?
No
Regarding fuel... is winter gas more prone to detonation compared to summer gas? Given that it vaporizes easier?
Yes
Engine autopsy sounds like a great idea, something I had to do for many years as 'service manager' when customers expected manufacturer to pick up the bill or manufacturers denied valid claims.
I'm not an engineer (couldn't do the math) and doubt you have experience of this but may find it interesting?
1974 ~77, Honda 250/360 motorcycle had a severe issue with oil feed to cam bearings leading to destroyed cylinder heads at sustained high rpm riding. (as little as 40miles at 70mph/8,000rpm- red-line 9,500 to 10,500 (from the handbook, 'do not operate at extended periods in red zone')
They were aware of the problem but most bikes made it out of warranty plus a totally new design was being prepared for 1978.
Anyway, long and short of it, around 1987 I figured out modification to oiling system and have since posted details on various vintage Honda sites.
The point I'm eventually getting to, full synthetic oil.
Running Shell Rotella full synthetic 5W/30 not only prevents any damage, rocker arms running direct on cam actually get polished into a better surface after as little as 2,000 miles (I have a friend with very little mechanical aptitude and even less mechanical sympathy who breaks stuff)
This is great! Is it possible to build a diesel engine viable for track use?
Yes, Early 90's BMW and Mercedes-Benz used turbo diesel engines
Yes, look up Darkside Developments here on CZcams. VW/Audi tdi guys with BMW diesel videos too.
Yes, look at Audi and the LMP cars!
Of course, but I don’t recommend it.
Black smoke racing has a Mercedes drift car with a lot of power.
At what pressure would you consider oil pressure to be Low or in risk.
Super loose rule of thumb is 10 psi for every 1000 rpm, most modern engines are regulated to run a little lower than that at high rpm. I would say you don't ever want to see lower than 30 for long when you are on it. If you see dips that low you gotta fix it.
What make is your straight edge that you used to check the head.
It's a machinist straight edge, many places sell these.
What is your experience with running light oils like 5w30 on the track or even lighter, and what is your experience with HKS engine oils.
I usually leave light oils with late model NA cars that are clearanced for them.
I run 5w30 on track and it’s fine, but my Miata engine is old AF lol
@@motoiqwhat about Honda turbos with their tight clearances? 10-30?
Anything with a turbo on the track I run 10w40 at least.
Are there any universals air oil seperators like the UAG one? And how would i locate an oil return line for it
You might have to weld a bung on your oil pan or something.
@@motoiq preciate ya
What about those friction modifiers or ceramic oil additives, can you prevent bearing failure with that if the oil pickup gets air for a second or two?
I think they can possibly help a little but not perform miracles.
older oils and some of Driven oils contain zinc for less friction so perhaps like moly they could help
@@jamesmedina2062 I agree
Hey Mike I know that you've worked on the toyota k series in the past from my past comment and I've been wondering what are your thoughts regarding the 7k engine. Can it be used to make a long rod 5k with a stock 5k crank? Can all 7k bellhousing be used with a w58 trans? What weak points you've found on the toyota k series and how high can I rev the engine reliably with solid lifters? Sorry for the lengthy questions searching info on this engine is kind of hard.
My opinion is don't bother with these engines.
@@motoiq Tbh I also would rather prefer a better engine, but the legality of engine swaps from where I'm from is still a grey area. Since the car I'm planning to swap is a ke20 comes with a 3k engine and other toyota k series engines are easy to find cheap here was hoping for it to pass as a stock block ke20 after the swap.
I mean you can pay 20k for a fully built 4K engine with all of the rare ex-TRD factory GT4 parts and it will make a whooping 140 whp on the dyno. It will be a sick 4K but that is kinda stupid for the amount of money. If you spent that on a 4AG it would be making over 220. The 4K is derived from an industrial forklift motor.
@@motoiq 7k engine+gearbox+carbs/efi that runs goes for around $700-900 (engine only and w58 would cost around $1500) meanwhile the 4age here only comes in a redtop+fwd gearbox this costs $1500 and would require me to convert it to rwd (a grey area imported 4age 20v and making it street legal would cost 4-6k). I'm not gonna make the K series as extreme as the TRD engines probably around lower 100 hp is good enough. TRD parts and kangaroo cams do show up from time to time online (people raced these engines here back then). I'm running 13 inch wheels so running too much power is also kind of sketchy with tiny brakes.
If 100 hp is your goal then some mild stuff is reasonable.