Overheating? Tips to Make Your Car Run Cooler!
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- čas přidán 1. 06. 2024
- It's inevitable, once you start making more power and pushing your car beyond the limits of what the manufacturer intended you're going to generate more heat! If you don't manage it properly overheating your car can end your day and maybe your engine. In today's video we'll give you the best tips we've picked up over the years to manage that heat and keep your car cool!
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These are some of our tips for keeping the car cool.. What are yours?
I'm always in front so I never have an issue with getting max airflow to my radiator :-) LOL!
One other thing, a vacuum filler is a life saver. I have a Lotus Elise where there are numerous runs in the coolant system that trap air. Filling the system without it is a complete pain in the ass!
Electric water pump/assist pump
Mine is having a working fan clutch with a proper shroud
Turbulators prevent laminar flow and keep the liquid in turbulent flow. Turbulators are tuned to the cfm of the flow. Anything below the minimum cfm and the liquid will remain in laminar flow and the radiator will not cool as well.
Mike is the most genuine car enthusiast/tuner out there. Love these videos!
Great video Mike
Mike is the kinda guy you can talk with in any environment for hours and have a pleasant, no-B.S. experience.
This man spittin fax.
Mike always spittin fax.
Straight fax
For a few decades now
Always does
Lol sometimes but not really
Watching him talk, you can tell Mike truly loves cars.
This guy is so chill but he really knows his stuff.
I love the mention of electrolysis/ galvanic corrosion inside the engine. Mike, I swear if I ever have the money I'm going to send my 3SGE for you all to build. Love your content ❤
I remember walking into O’Reilley’s and asking for water wetter. Dude behind the counter didn’t even skip a beat and told me they didn’t carry that. I walked around the store and found it. Same dude ring me up and was like, “huh, I didn’t know we sold that.”
Walking performance-car-guy encyclopedia. What a legend this Mike dude.
When I heard Sacrificial Anode it was right their you know Mike Kojima knows something about chemical engineering, Pretty cool I love proven science and engineering.
Great advice. If I may offer advice not mentioned: A mechanical clutch fan. I had done all of the mentioned tips in this video and my time attack camaro with a stout 383 would always get too hot on track. I had a popular oem electric fan setup on it and rather than spend 500+ on an insane brushless electric I simply bought a stock mechanical fan with thermal clutch. I deliberately left it unshrouded so that vortex ring state would limit hp loss at high rpm. I also went to an underdrive crank pulley. I also was able to duct the "prop wash" out of the hood quite easily.
IMMEDIATELY solved my cooling issues and set new personal lap records.
Just imagine what even a 3 hp electric motor looks like in size and youll realize no electric fan can really pull much air because they simply don't have enough power to do so.
I saved 6 lbs off the front end of the car to boot.
Water wetter is AWESOME. I put it in my truck that I tow with. I was staying at 230F-240F consistently pulling a trailer up the mountains in Colorado. Then I did a cooling system flush and changed the radiator and added water wetter. Never get above 220F now.
Do a video on braking system setups 👍great videos btw
Good Idea!
I've tried to explain electrolysis to so many people in and out side of automotive instances, and people are like.....wut? So when I heard
"the aluminum acts like a sacrificial anode and....gets all messed up"
it reminds me of all the tiems I started to explain electrolysis and, in the moment, realize I am about to lose my audience and need to keep it simple.
love Mike's explanations including both the laymen and in depth explanation for important concepts
Spent forever trying to stop my turbo miata from getting hot on the highway and what fixed it was making an air dam/duct so no air could go around the radiator and intercooler. After like 10 minutes on the highway I would have to pull over and after I swapped it it keeps it cool enough the thermostat doesn’t have to open. I made it out of the same stuff people use for signs in their yard. Like those vote for this senator/ governor ones.
Cardboard is your best friend when doing home built fab projects on a budget!
Adding an under tray greatly improves radiator efficiency.
Because without one high pressure air builds up into engine bay from under.
And this can actually cause the radiator air flow to be so obstructed it actually reversed.
Look it up.
Don’t spend your fuel catching air in the front of the car.
Spend it spinning the tires.
You were probably missing your under tray.
This man must be protected at all costs!
I’ve seen bro in quite a few videos about different areas and a bunch of insightful tips… I’d definitely pay him whatever he wants to build a car for me…
Man that’s so good you mentioned cavitation.
My classic ford mk1 escort has a Kent 1600-1700(90tho over sized) that revs to 8000rmp. The cast aluminium coolant outlet on the head shows massive cavities in the alloy after only 1500km of hard driving.
To the point I had a smaller crank pulley made. The alternator doesn’t like 8k either, so hopefully that is better now to.
If we could harvest cavitations energy for say pre combustion chambers water injection charge, we might be onto something.🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼😎🍀😊😊
Most coolant flanges and block/head outlets benefit from porting.
Easier flow
Means less cavitation.
Great video. We are struggling with an LS in a 350z. We added a swirl pot (Merlin Motorsport - UK), lower thermostat (Summit racing 160), higher pressure cap (Moroso 23-25) and a vented hood. It might be our radiator, so that's next. We bought an expensive Flex-A-Lite (they quit making radiators recently) so we will probably go with a Koyorad next.
A 350z is one of the cars where an air lift is a must because the radiator is so low, we have to keep sucking for about 20 min, run the car and repeat a few times.
I love watching your videos Mike! Always so easy to digest and so informative! I'm an apprentice mechanic, not much money to pay for expensive stuff ups, so thank you for sharing your hard earned knowledge!
Yes, couldn't of said it better myself
Great stuff Mike. Thanks.
Great info Mike !
Awesome video! Thank you for all the great info! 🤙
Great info !
I freaking love this guy. TONS of knowledge.
Well Done!
Thank You.
Super informative as always love the channel❤️
Wonderful information. Thank you
Very informative video. Thank you for taking the time to make it for us.
These Moto iq videos are such a great informative resource 🙏🏼
Always the best advice from this man!
Thanks man. Lots of useful information and products I had no idea about. Appreciate it.
This is easily becoming my favorite channel
Thank you very much. We like your knowledge, skills, passion, and your smile.😊
Thanks for your time.
Great stuff! I didn’t know about the surge tank.
Thank you Mr. Treasure Trove! Love all your video's sir! The difference is in the detail for sure my man.
Great video! Very informative
What a great professional! Congratulations for all knowledge you have and thanks for sharing.
Well explained. Will apply these to my xr 6t. Thanks for info.
Thank you Mike.
great video great advice
Thanks for your service Mike been fallowing you since sr20forums
Thanks so much Mike! I'm a 60-something guy that's only got into tracking my car in recent years and every time I'm on the track I realize some modification I've made is not right, or not enough, and beside whatever I've done, I need more! So your vids are a great help. Thanks!!
I don't know why some people think every damn video is a product advertisement. You guys want me to just stand in front of an empty table with no visual aids all the time, get real, start your own channel...
hey there@@davconelectric , you sound like an arm chair wannabe "enthusiast." If you ever actually build a car for the track you'll realize there's a LOT of junk you can buy for your car. I appreciate that Mike gives some clues on quality products. If you wanna bitch and moan about product adverts, go ahead. But I'd asy your just a troll.
@@motoiq shots fired! You tell him buddy!
@@motoiqpoint taken
@@motoiq meanwhile i'm out here taking notes on what brands the real race cars use... that's like half of my research done right there! Thank you!!
omg i like this guy vids he is so calm and kind and honest and he knows what he talking about
Thanks so much for sharing all the valuable information that has always been kept secret we are so blessed nowdays. Always listen to your elders
The bleeder funnel with the lid works well with the liquid block test kits - All you need to do is cut approx 1" hole in that lid so the block test kit's tapered rubber bottom fits snuggly. Keep the coolant level in the tapered part of the funnel and use the block test kit as normal. I've gotten best results with this
Ooooh that’s a good idea!
Thanks!
It always sucks to lower the coolant level for the test and have the coolant level rise and spoil the test
Thank you sir!!
Mike could be talking about how to unroll toilet paper and it would sound intriguing 👏😅
A big hello from Australia , thank you so much for all your advise , will apply your recommendations onto my SR / 20 DET .
Most of the stuff on the table is going on an SR powered S13!
one of the best channel
thanks you very much.
Thanks 🙏
Thank you
Pretty cool facts
This is such a good video.
I really like Gates green belts. I use them for my tow vehicle and also my supercharged f150z
I like how the ford FE engines in the Fairlanes and Galxies had the radiator expansion tank bolted straight to the thermostat housing above the block. Zero chance of the heads running dry due to elevation changes. There were plenty of cars during the 80s when their was a push for lower bonnet lines for reduced drag and better fuel efficiency that suffered from overheating and engine damage if the coolant level got low due to having the radiator at or not much abovethe cylinder head height, a risk that the other 98% of the population who arent petrolheads and treated their car as a simple appliance to take them from A to B everyday and didnt keep on top of maintenance.
I just love mikes videos
Great stuff and explanations. 👍👍👍👍
Not selling/shilling snake oil or miracle products, birthed by the marketing departments.
Nice video and thanks for your hard work! I can't find a oil thermostat that goes past 180F? I would like to go a bit hotter? What do you think? Would that help with some issues using E85 and just have the oil last longer?
Thanks!
Good stuff as always Mike! What is your opinion on heat shrink hose clamps (Gates power grip etc)?
I heard they work well but have no actual experience with them.
Norma clamps is great!
Hi Mike.
Subscribed 👏😀
Great video, I overheated just seeing that global time attack car in the background 😜
Thanks lot
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️. Thx for the great info.
My eclipse probably needs a bleed. Temp guage only hits 1/4 fully warmed up at idle. Driving it goes to the 1/2 mark until stopped. Ill try jacking the front up, thankyou for the advice. Also iron block and aluminum head, thankyou for the heads up.
He is really good super smart
99 GC8 recreational car I use a racing tstat with stock radiator and stock radiator fans. I rewired my driver fan to a stand alone power switch and the passenger side fan activates like normal it turns on when Temps get 180d.
Get the Norma clamps with the integrated steel spring. It helps with thermal expansion and keep the pressure up.
Do you have a link for these?
@@louiC6Z NORMACLAMP® TORRO® that’s the name.
Big fan of certified OEM parts 🤔✊🏼
the g20 in the back 😍
Something overlooked: pressure and temperature gauges. It's pointless to put all these parts in without the feedback to help you determine what you need to resolve your cooling issues.
Great advice Mike! I use the same funnel. Do you have an opinion on Oetiker clamps? Thanks!
Supposed to be good but hard to service especially on a racecar.
Oetiker clamps are great. SeaDoo used them in the ‘90’s on the water hoses. The best part is that it gives good clamping pressure all the way around the clamping surface. Only downside that I see is that it is a one time use clamp.
Though, compared to worm gear clamp, the Oeticker clamp does not scratch your skin when working near it, or reaching beyond the clamp to access something else in the bilge, or engine bay in this case.
I hope you never stop making these types of videos, thank mr katt
One better than the bleeder funnel is using one of those vacuum fillers. That way I can do a leak down test then flip a valve and pretty much fill the entire coolant system from there. That a Koyo radiator and using a swirl pot and high pressure cap on the pot and I haven't had any more problems with my G overheating at trackdays. That and I put in the Z1 oil cooler and got rid of the stock oil cooler (warmer?) sandwich plate.
I totally agree with you and we use one at the shop for known difficult cars like the RSX and the Z. This funnel is something that's cheap and makes a huge difference and everyone should use one!
+1 for the vacuum fillers. The NC miata is A TOTAL PAIN to bleed. The bubbles come out when they want to, not a second sooner. I'd have to drive in 1st gear at 6000 rpm around the neighborhood to finally push everything through. (Including the funnel, raising the car, revving, holding at 5000 rpm, anything.) Vacuum fill works every time.
@@TurboHappyCarThat's just God's way of telling you to k swap it.
@@ebf1003 Heeellll nooo. 😂 I'm completely happy with my ford fusion sedan engine that makes 50 hp less. 😅 My buddy k-swapped his NB and it had so many problems I don't think he completed a track day.
This man is nothing short of GENIUS.
I believe every word he speaks as gospel.
Thank you for another great video. I live in Japan, what Japanese coolants would you recommend here?
Honestly I have no idea, we have not tested any Japanese specific coolants.
I want his voice as my ring tone "hey man you got a phone call"
Referring to "tucked" radiator setups with AN hoses on a dedicated track car -- Any pros/cons in cooling / coolant flow when converting from traditional rad hoses (Larger Hose I.D) to AN-hoses (Smaller Hose I.D) + fittings?
On high-powered race, track, and drift cars other than drag racers, we have had lots of problems with those setups.
Didnt know they had thermostats for the oil system thats awesome
Pro!!!😊
Is it better to use a 1.1psi in a semi modified car ( 4A carb with ported & polished head and lightened flywheel) with a spirited driving habit or just stick with stock spec of 0.9 psi? Loving your videos btw. Every vids are full of knowledge.
PSI or Bar? 1.1 is fine as long as the cooling system is in good shape with fresh parts just as stated in the video.
@@motoiq Sorry it's 1.1 kg/cm^2 (16psi). Noted on this. Thank you!
Hello, would you recommend a lower temp thermostat aswell? Thanks!
some times
Miata NA/NB water pumps from RockAuto tend to have the crimped metal impellers… oem Mazda uses the cast versions. Ask me how I know 😅😂
good to know
Would love to see a video for non-racers (ie: Outback, Forester, non-turbos cars). Say "mods" that might work...AOS, upgraded hoses, bushings, lubing certain parts, battery, etc
For non performance car generally Genuine OEM stock is the best.
@@motoiqthanks. Anyone ever install an AOS in a non-turbo car?
If it has blowby issues its not a bad idea.
👏👏👏💯💯💯&🎯
Thank you for this knowledge. I like the 95 Corolla back there!
very true…❤😊
This guys knowledge is straight up brain ASMR
What's your opinion on running an under driven crank pulley on the street? The ati for the sr20 is 11% under driven, and I have concerns about the other accessories not running well enough during normal street driving.
Works fine
Been using Koyo aluminum racing radiators for years but the Australian company PWR has a track version that tests to do a better job specifically made for the track. Got one for my fk8. It costs more but it’s proven on the track.
They are very good radiators.
He always look like he had strong bong rip b4 recording
I have a 350z, so the underdriven belt doesn't affect the water pump due to the water pump being chain driven off the crank. But I have lowered temps with hood vents, header wrap, upgraded radiator, and Z1 oil pan spacer for extra oil capacity. All the small changes make a big difference, think i'll look into a swirl pot now since the car is virtually impossible to bleed lol
Used a vacuum bleeder too. The 350 is really hard to get all the air out.
Do you happen to know where you got that Stance water pump pulley for the SR, I can't seem to find it from Enjuku.
I’m afraid to skip your videos and miss out on some cool info
What about oil coolers for naturally aspirated drift cars/ track cars?
Yes, every track specific car needs one
Great info here! I wonder what mods does the ae100 have🤔😂
stock beater