Thanks Mike I end up drilling my clutch plates out and putting a drag specialties aluminum pressure plate hooks really hard now you are a wise man and a living ledgend thanks again mate
Another awesome video mike, glad you added these steps to the previous clutch servicing video.. love your videos and I always get excited when you post new ones, keep em comin Sir 👍
Hello Mike. Greetings from Finland, europe. I´ve really enjoyed your videos. Just bought me shovelhead -82 that had some fault in the engine. One of the tappet roller and cam lobe was damaged. Your videos were really helpful besides the original H-D manual. Thank you and keep that good stuff coming.:)
Thank you. That's a common thing. I have to add something though. Be as thorough as possible in cleaning out the camchest. It's obviously time for a cam and lifters, at least new rollers on your lifters. Spend as much time as necessary with a magnet to remove any and all metal shavings. Replace the cam bearing. Have fun with your new project.
Thank you. The 40's were a long time ago. Technology is constantly gaining momentum and developing at a constantly faster rate of speed. It's also interesting how much of that old technology has survived.
Great Video Mike! My Ironhead isn't that old it's a 82 but it's old enough! The last of the ironheads! I prefer the old school stuff myself, over fuel injection! I'm just that way! Not just bikes cars also!
And houses, and schools, and stores, and culture. If we do the best we can, we keep old values alive, craftsmanship, quality, durability, appreciation, maintenance...
All the old suppliers used to carry them. And then, the aftermarket suppliers starrted producing complete replacement clutch hubs. It's really nice to have a new one.
I think that answers my question as to why my clutch is grabbing at take off from 1st gear; like I'm dumping it or something. Those clutch plates are a booger bear to get started onto the studs. Gonna break out the the drill bits now.
Hey Mike,, really good video this time,about the clutch,, I have an old 1972 ironhead,, my question is,, not about a clutch but oil tank. What is the minimum size of tank I can use? Meaning as far as capacity?
Good question. Now I'm gonna sound like an old Brother of mine, "It's IN THE BOOK!" Just joking, but, you should have heard him beller at me. I believe the original spec is 3 quarts. Look in the book. Remember, that oil not only lubricates but it carries heat out of your engine. Sometimes, building a chopper, you want a little oil tank. I get it. But with oil, more is better. Be sure , always, to leave enough room at the top of the tank for air coming in from the breather. That's it. Big twins were all 4 quarts up until Evos, which were also much cooler running engines.
Mike, I know this is a older video but the clutch hub on my 59 pan has deep groves in the fingers and I would like to replace them instead of scrapping the hub and buying a repro. They look to be pressed in and peened. Have you ever done this and would it be dumb to attempted the job myself? I'm a fair armature wrench but don't have a machine shop in my garage. Keep up the great videos Mike they're great!
It's the way it was done. I believe V-Twin stocks the fingers. Make sure your hub isn't cracked in the keyway. There used to be a Harley fixture available for repairing clutch hubs. I replace them.
Good stuff again.... The hub on my '76 FLH has to be replaced... it was just too far gone to save. I bought a new DRAG Specialties hub assembly and I need some help with the prep before I install it on the bike. I have seen videos that say I have to take the entire hub assembly apart and pack grease on the INSIDE of the shell bearing "band", and others that say to smear grease on TOP of the "band" and the bearings. I don't want to mess this up, so I am stuck as to what to do as I assume the hub out of the box is NOT pre lubed. Any advice on how to "Grease clutch shell bearing" would be great!! Thanx in advance.... TD
Thank you. I just put grease inside the "bearing retainer," then install each roller into the grease. If you let the retainer stand upright, with the rollers pointing straight up and down, they'll stick into the grease. Now, with the clutch hub sitting on the bench, with it's "fingers" pointing straight up, lift the bearing (shell, retainer, whatever), and slide it onto the hub. If a roller falls out while you're doing this, stop, stick it in place, and keep going. Now you can reinstall the rest of the hardware and you're ready to install the hub. That's the way I've always done it. Some things are difficult to put into words. I hope this helps.
Pacific Mike I wish I could! I don’t even have a motorcycle. In spite of that I like watching motorcycle repair videos. I’ll probably be buying one in the future. In the meantime I’m trying to learn as much as I can from people like you, who share his knowledge for free.
I always go back to your videos when I'm unsure about some things. thanks for all the info you put out .took clutches comp. Primary chain , etc to inspect. I noticed before pulling clutch hub out it moves forward and back about1 inch or 16th - 8th of a turn . been a about 5- 6 years I replaced hub but don't remember if it had that kind of movement Can you comment ?. Thank.you very much Sir. ✌
Well, you didn't say what the bike is. Assuming it's old and 4 speed with a dry clutch, are you saying the transmission mainshaft is rotating in gear? It's sliding in and out? Is the nut loose? I'm confused.
Sorry boss, its a 4 speed on a shovel .the movement is clockwise - counterclockwise when in gear. Don' t. know if its normal or if I need to pull inner primary and dig deeper
Hi Mike I’ve got a 1981 FLT the clutch is the same with the aluminium pressure plate the same but it’s a five stud it drags I measured it up but if you screw the push rod bolt right in the middle and turn the clutch it is knot level it drags on one side iv ordered new set of springs to see if it’s them if knot I will have to adjust it level with the nuts have you any thoughts on that I hope you get back to me I am in East of England cheers
Okay. First off, if you have an aluminum plate, be sure you allow for the depth of the springs into the holes. You have to figure the bottom of the springs to set for that 1 1/32 height. Look in the book, realize you have an aluminum plate and that it is much thicker than the original. Also, if you have to, you can set the springs uneven to compensate and make the clutch break evenly. I think you're committed. You'll get there.
Again thanks for the information and time filming. You mention replacing the the friction dick on the hub. Where would someone find one of the disks and rivets to do that? I am out of terms to try with Google.
Hi Mike I have isolated my 1983 fxr primary and run a cup of primary oil till it reaches the bottom of the clutch basket do I need to vent my inner primary thanks
No, but you'll have enough of a time keeping the oil in. If you're at the bottom of the clutch basket, you'll be getting oil in your clutch. I normally don't recommend this system on a dry clutch bike. The original system worked, but a lot of people don't like it. The later, wet primary, bikes were designed to hold a real volume of oil and run wet clutches.
Hi Mike. Really appreciate your videos. I am wondering where you get decent rivets? I repaired a clutch hub recently and got the rivets via the usual sources. But they look smaller and not as robust as the ones that are in another clutch hub that I have. So wondering if there's a size? Or a source where I can get one's close to what was used during manufacturer. I have a really decent rivet tool and I'm just looking for a quality rivets. Maybe I have them? I don't know. Thanks for your time
Maybe you are using brake rivets for clutch rivets. When you buy brake lining, it usually comes with rivets. Same with clutches. Other than that, I'd either try on line or an old hardware store. Have you tried V-Twin (Tedd Cycle)?
Thanks. I did find rivets and repaired the hub with a new friction disk. It seems to work fine I've put about 300 mi on the bike with a repaired part in it. I have two of these bikes and in comparing the rivets and original hub and the ones I was able to acquire, the original ones are much more robust. But I guess the 'meeker' nothing ones seem to work fine. More miles will tell. Thanks for your response
It's something I remember: Someone used to make a friction disc that just floated. It was made of a "high tech" material and wasn't even fastened to the hub. I think you'll be just fine.
With a proper fixture, it's easier, but, you can peen the ends of the fingers. I've seen people weld them. When it gets too "iffy," I replace the hub with a new one.
Hello mike im working on a 86 softail that sat for 12 years because the owner thought there was a knock in the engine. the case is full of oil and somebody filled more oil into the oil bag. im wondering what the best method to get oil out of the case is
This is not bad at all. Find the breather hose which comes out of the crankcase, inboard of the oil pump, and down low. Somewhere it dumps out into a canister or hopefully, the atmosphere. Point it at a drainpan. Remember, if there is oil in the oil tank, it will continue into the engine, if you crank it over. So, drain the oil tank. Now, spin the engine over and it should pump the oil out the breather hose. This is not difficult with the '86 motor because it is a "bottom breather" motor. Removing the spark plugs makes it a lot easier. Also, go easy on the starter. Don't run it more than a few seconds at a time.
Thanks for the quick response. I can't seem to find. Maybe you can answer question. When I took apart I did not see woodruff key when I took hub off. Could have lost but was very careful. Question is Woodruff key has to be used correct?
The studs are replaceable. The factory had a fixture for installing them. I've replaced them before. I don't mean to sound extravagant, but, if studs are going bad, the rest of the hub is probably a little questionable too. I generally replace the clutch hub with a new one.
Thanks Mike I end up drilling my clutch plates out and putting a drag specialties aluminum pressure plate hooks really hard now you are a wise man and a living ledgend thanks again mate
No, just an old guy who loves this stuff. Thank you.
Thank you for all your help give us
Glad you like it.
Good call on key way inspection, good attention to detail.
Thank You.
Another awesome video mike, glad you added these steps to the previous clutch servicing video.. love your videos and I always get excited when you post new ones, keep em comin Sir 👍
Thank you. I'm always concerned that I do something automatically, and forget to mention it. Comments help.
Hi Mike ! Greetings from Spain ! Thanks for all!!
Thank you. And, Greetings from the U.S!
Currently restoring a '58 sportster. This was exceedingly helpful info
Cool. I built a 58 Sportster for myself in 1969. I started with a $200.00 basket case.
Keep the vids coming Mike.
I like seem to hang with the older bikers in my area. Tons of knowledge from those fellas
Yes, learning goes on all our lives.
Hello Mike. Greetings from Finland, europe. I´ve really enjoyed your videos. Just bought me shovelhead -82 that had some fault in the engine. One of the tappet roller and cam lobe was damaged. Your videos were really helpful besides the original H-D manual. Thank you and keep that good stuff coming.:)
Thank you. That's a common thing. I have to add something though. Be as thorough as possible in cleaning out the camchest. It's obviously time for a cam and lifters, at least new rollers on your lifters. Spend as much time as necessary with a magnet to remove any and all metal shavings. Replace the cam bearing. Have fun with your new project.
I could watch you all day long but then I wouldn’t get any work done! Unbelievable amount of education
Thank You.
Great video on clutch. Much appreciated . Thank you for sharing .
Thank you.
Thanks Mike. That is helpful while I'm working on my '84 FXR.
Glad to help
Thanks Mike...timely vid. Did mine today....it was like new.
Cool.
1940’s? It’s interesting to see how technology has been improving over the years. Thanks for the video!
Thank you. The 40's were a long time ago. Technology is constantly gaining momentum and developing at a constantly faster rate of speed. It's also interesting how much of that old technology has survived.
Thanks again, Mike---well done!
Thank you.
Thanks man need more guys like you and my persistence lol
Hey, I just wish you a great New Year. We're all doing fine.
Just the info I was needing right now. ✌
Cool. That is always the hope.
Another cool video!
Thank you.
Thanks Mike!
Thank you.
Tenho uma harley WL 47 e uma FXE 1985. Tenho aprendido muito consigo. Obrigado Mike
Thank You, Manuel. Glad to help.
very impressed.. if u were closer i would bring my fleet in 4 u 2 c
Thank You.
I love that 36.
Good stuff, I have a 1945 wl thanks Mike
Cool. The clutch hub is a little different, but, same basic design and function.
I wish you would do a video like this on the clutch basket. Inspection and re-conditioning.
Not much to "recondition" there.
Great Video Mike! My Ironhead isn't that old it's a 82 but it's old enough! The last of the ironheads! I prefer the old school stuff myself, over fuel injection! I'm just that way! Not just bikes cars also!
And houses, and schools, and stores, and culture. If we do the best we can, we keep old values alive, craftsmanship, quality, durability, appreciation, maintenance...
Used to be a good source from Superior Cycles for replacement studs for the old hubs, done a far few of them. Still have somewhere LOL.
All the old suppliers used to carry them. And then, the aftermarket suppliers starrted producing complete replacement clutch hubs. It's really nice to have a new one.
Found a lot of the aftermarket hubs have soft studs unfortunately, real hit & miss with that. @@pacificmike9501
Been a long time since I found one I could complain about. Sounds like you've been around a while. We've seen a lot of products come and go.
@@pacificmike9501 Yeah been around a bit lol you've got more depth on the older iron but I know my shovels, respect partner.
I think that answers my question as to why my clutch is grabbing at take off from 1st gear; like I'm dumping it or something. Those clutch plates are a booger bear to get started onto the studs. Gonna break out the the drill bits now.
Don't over do it. 3/8 = 24/64. 24/64 + 1/64 = 25/64. I'm not trying to teach simple math, just making sure I'm being clear.
Also, sanding the fingers on the clutch hub makes the plates slide easier. If those fingers have deep grooves, buy a new hub.
@@pacificmike9501 The fingers are perfect. The friction disc's are just hard to get started.
Hey Mike,, really good video this time,about the clutch,, I have an old 1972 ironhead,, my question is,, not about a clutch but oil tank. What is the minimum size of tank I can use? Meaning as far as capacity?
Good question. Now I'm gonna sound like an old Brother of mine, "It's IN THE BOOK!" Just joking, but, you should have heard him beller at me. I believe the original spec is 3 quarts. Look in the book. Remember, that oil not only lubricates but it carries heat out of your engine. Sometimes, building a chopper, you want a little oil tank. I get it. But with oil, more is better. Be sure , always, to leave enough room at the top of the tank for air coming in from the breather. That's it. Big twins were all 4 quarts up until Evos, which were also much cooler running engines.
Thanks for these great videos. What type of grease would you recommend for that hub and how much?
Thanks again.
Plain old bearing grease and just enough, not too much. You just want to coat the roller bearings. Thank you.
Thank you
Mike, I know this is a older video but the clutch hub on my 59 pan has deep groves in the fingers and I would like to replace them instead of scrapping the hub and buying a repro. They look to be pressed in and peened. Have you ever done this and would it be dumb to attempted the job myself? I'm a fair armature wrench but don't have a machine shop in my garage. Keep up the great videos Mike they're great!
It's the way it was done. I believe V-Twin stocks the fingers. Make sure your hub isn't cracked in the keyway. There used to be a Harley fixture available for repairing clutch hubs. I replace them.
Good stuff again.... The hub on my '76 FLH has to be replaced... it was just too far gone to save. I bought a new DRAG Specialties hub assembly and I need some help with the prep before I install it on the bike. I have seen videos that say I have to take the entire hub assembly apart and pack grease on the INSIDE of the shell bearing "band", and others that say to smear grease on TOP of the "band" and the bearings. I don't want to mess this up, so I am stuck as to what to do as I assume the hub out of the box is NOT pre lubed. Any advice on how to "Grease clutch shell bearing" would be great!! Thanx in advance.... TD
Thank you. I just put grease inside the "bearing retainer," then install each roller into the grease. If you let the retainer stand upright, with the rollers pointing straight up and down, they'll stick into the grease. Now, with the clutch hub sitting on the bench, with it's "fingers" pointing straight up, lift the bearing (shell, retainer, whatever), and slide it onto the hub. If a roller falls out while you're doing this, stop, stick it in place, and keep going. Now you can reinstall the rest of the hardware and you're ready to install the hub. That's the way I've always done it. Some things are difficult to put into words. I hope this helps.
Have you thought about making a video about the electrical system on new injectors?
There's a lot of material there. Have you consulted your service manual?
Pacific Mike
I wish I could! I don’t even have a motorcycle. In spite of that I like watching motorcycle repair videos. I’ll probably be buying one in the future. In the meantime I’m trying to learn as much as I can from people like you, who share his knowledge for free.
When it's time, you'll do it.
I always go back to your videos when I'm unsure about some things. thanks for all the info you put out .took clutches comp. Primary chain , etc to inspect. I noticed before pulling clutch hub out it moves forward and back about1 inch or 16th - 8th of a turn . been a about 5- 6 years I replaced hub but don't remember if it had that kind of movement
Can you comment ?.
Thank.you very much Sir. ✌
Well, you didn't say what the bike is. Assuming it's old and 4 speed with a dry clutch, are you saying the transmission mainshaft is rotating in gear? It's sliding in and out? Is the nut loose? I'm confused.
Sorry boss, its a 4 speed on a shovel .the movement is clockwise - counterclockwise when in gear.
Don' t. know if its normal or if I need to pull inner primary and dig deeper
It's probably just the "gear lash." Try it in different gears and see if it varies. It should with the size of the teeth.
@@pacificmike9501 👍 tnks
Hi Mike I’ve got a 1981 FLT the clutch is the same with the aluminium pressure plate the same but it’s a five stud it drags I measured it up but if you screw the push rod bolt right in the middle and turn the clutch it is knot level it drags on one side iv ordered new set of springs to see if it’s them if knot I will have to adjust it level with the nuts have you any thoughts on that I hope you get back to me I am in East of England cheers
Okay. First off, if you have an aluminum plate, be sure you allow for the depth of the springs into the holes. You have to figure the bottom of the springs to set for that 1 1/32 height. Look in the book, realize you have an aluminum plate and that it is much thicker than the original. Also, if you have to, you can set the springs uneven to compensate and make the clutch break evenly. I think you're committed. You'll get there.
Again thanks for the information and time filming. You mention replacing the the friction dick on the hub. Where would someone find one of the disks and rivets to do that? I am out of terms to try with Google.
Any aftermarket Harley Shop should either have one or get it for you on their regular order. It was used for over fifty years.
should the fiber clutch plates be pre oiled on a shovelhead with a primary chain drip oiler system?
No. It is a "dry " clutch. Please buy a service manual.
Hi Mike I have isolated my 1983 fxr primary and run a cup of primary oil till it reaches the bottom of the clutch basket do I need to vent my inner primary thanks
No, but you'll have enough of a time keeping the oil in. If you're at the bottom of the clutch basket, you'll be getting oil in your clutch. I normally don't recommend this system on a dry clutch bike. The original system worked, but a lot of people don't like it. The later, wet primary, bikes were designed to hold a real volume of oil and run wet clutches.
Hi Mike. Really appreciate your videos. I am wondering where you get decent rivets? I repaired a clutch hub recently and got the rivets via the usual sources. But they look smaller and not as robust as the ones that are in another clutch hub that I have. So wondering if there's a size? Or a source where I can get one's close to what was used during manufacturer. I have a really decent rivet tool and I'm just looking for a quality rivets. Maybe I have them? I don't know. Thanks for your time
Maybe you are using brake rivets for clutch rivets. When you buy brake lining, it usually comes with rivets. Same with clutches. Other than that, I'd either try on line or an old hardware store. Have you tried V-Twin (Tedd Cycle)?
Thanks. I did find rivets and repaired the hub with a new friction disk. It seems to work fine I've put about 300 mi on the bike with a repaired part in it. I have two of these bikes and in comparing the rivets and original hub and the ones I was able to acquire, the original ones are much more robust. But I guess the 'meeker' nothing ones seem to work fine. More miles will tell. Thanks for your response
It's something I remember: Someone used to make a friction disc that just floated. It was made of a "high tech" material and wasn't even fastened to the hub. I think you'll be just fine.
Ah yes. The adventure of learning. Ty
If the fingers spin or are loose should the hub be replaced, or just run it, or junk it? Everything thing else is all good... no grooves or cracks.
With a proper fixture, it's easier, but, you can peen the ends of the fingers. I've seen people weld them. When it gets too "iffy," I replace the hub with a new one.
How easy should it slide onto the transmission shaft
Clean the shaft and the tapered hole in the hub with coarse scotchbrite. Make sure the woodruff key stays in place and slide the hub on.
Hello mike im working on a 86 softail that sat for 12 years because the owner thought there was a knock in the engine. the case is full of oil and somebody filled more oil into the oil bag. im wondering what the best method to get oil out of the case is
This is not bad at all. Find the breather hose which comes out of the crankcase, inboard of the oil pump, and down low. Somewhere it dumps out into a canister or hopefully, the atmosphere. Point it at a drainpan. Remember, if there is oil in the oil tank, it will continue into the engine, if you crank it over. So, drain the oil tank. Now, spin the engine over and it should pump the oil out the breather hose. This is not difficult with the '86 motor because it is a "bottom breather" motor. Removing the spark plugs makes it a lot easier. Also, go easy on the starter. Don't run it more than a few seconds at a time.
thanks a lot! appreciate what your doing with this channel@@pacificmike9501
You bet. Good luck.
Any videos on reinstalling the hub itself? Rebuilding 79 Shovelhead
I believe you'll find that under "playlists" on our CZcams Homepage.
Thanks for the quick response. I can't seem to find. Maybe you can answer question. When I took apart I did not see woodruff key when I took hub off. Could have lost but was very careful. Question is Woodruff key has to be used correct?
Yes. Regardless of who makes it, the o.e.m. HD part number is 37523-15.
I am currently working on a flat and cleaning up the clutch as instructed and found one of the threaded studs have some play… any fix for that?
The studs are replaceable. The factory had a fixture for installing them. I've replaced them before. I don't mean to sound extravagant, but, if studs are going bad, the rest of the hub is probably a little questionable too. I generally replace the clutch hub with a new one.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks for the feedback. I will probably replace the hub as some of the fingers have some pretty deep groves…
It will make you happy. Be sure the holes in the plates slide freely over the new studs.
Hit the bell. Lol
Sounds like a quiz show, huh? Oh well, thanx.