Fix your old crappy clutch with these simple cheap tips Ram jet Retainer www.denniskirk.com/twin-power... Big FIX bearing kit www.lowbrowcustoms.com/produc...
I've been doing all these things, for years, to get my clutch to act right. Ramjet Retainer, Big Fix, 5 stud clutch hub, cast aluminum pressure plate. But I've gone one step farther and got a diaphragm spring kit, as well. No grabbing at idle. Can always find neutral. Hooks up when you want it to. And the diaphragm spring makes the clutch pull lighter than the coil springs, but gives you better pressure.
Great video, thank you! Nice to see someone with some no BS advice on how to do it properly without trying to over-sell parts and work that isn`t required. I have been doing exactly what you say for the last 45 years and 98% of the time that`s all that needs to be done. Although at 72 I`m starting to be more selective as to who I let in the door. LOL Also want to comment on your style and delivery, you come across as a straight shooter without resorting to the all the macho sidewalk commando in your face BS. Thank you again!! Keep up the great work and advice. Looking forward to checking out some of your other vids, I`m sure I won`t be disappointed.
FOOT CLUTCH BABY! Those old chatter box clutchs were originaly set up with a mouse trap clutch cable. Hand clutch doesnt keep the correct fulcrum lever travel as the mousetrap does. Foot clutch has plenty of travel, hand clutch has less. So its a very very very fine line between slipping and not disengaging. Get good at adjusting your clutch and do it over n over n over again.
Don't forget about primary belt tension. A lot of people don't have enough slack in the belt, or are not running the proper length belt. When those belts heat up, they contract and can pull the the transmission forward, causing clutch walk as well. Some guys run the old offset squirrel cage with the ramjet and a 5 finger basket. They say the squirrel cage doesn't have the diagonal play in the bearings that the big fix has. At the end of the day, I guess it's what works best for your particular set up. Also, let the clutch warm up a bit as well. Great video! Just found the channel and am enjoying it. Keep up the good work.
A rubber band works to hold the rollers. When sliding the basket on it'll push it back. Just before the basket is all the way on grab a pair of needle nose and yank on the rubber band breaking it.
Good warning on don't over grease the needle bearings, I over greased mine the first time I put it together. With summer heat and engine heat the grease thinned and the lube contaminated the discs. Made the clutch slip. Well, I did have quite a bit of grease on the bearings... had to remove and clean the discs while away on a trip. I learned my lesson. I used a cofy can with solvent and tooth brush, dried and reassembled the clutch. Was held up for a day to do that. 1983 FLHT Shovel 5-speed. 5 finger basket.
This is good info, my shovel creeps and lurches , didnt know about the long roller bearings probably will swap to that. my clutch is roasted been living with it forever haha, with a springer makes for some interesting green lights on an uphill
In the old days we would measure the distance front the plate the spring sit on up to the bottom of the pressure plate. Then we would turn the nuts on top of the pressure plate to get the distance we wanted and also the pressure plate needed to be level
I was told on hdforums that the 52 long rollers squeeze out the grease too easily and cause premature wear... I got an 81 Sturgis with a grabby clutch, and an 83 FXDG (twin belt wide glide) . The wide glide has a stock clutch which behaves perfect. What is different between the two is the friction discs, so thats what I am going to try next. The 81 also has a clutch retainer, a brass one which I made myself. The 81 behaved perfect too, until I replaced the primary belt. The old belt was very loose, clutch was fine. The new belt is tight, clutch problems. Probably cause the belt pulls the basket crooked against sloppy rollers. But there is no belt adjustment possibility on my 81...
I’ve never had any problems with the long rollers. I’ve personally put around 20k on a set with the original grease I installed them with and had no visible wear on disassemble. As for the belt in the original primary I don’t know man. That’s really frustrating.
Guess how you figured this stuff out if you're my age. Pre- internet. You Used to have to earn your stripes, Like a mountain man surviving the winter or a cowboy on the trail.
you need to use way more grease that plastic retainer is to keep grease in you will burn up bearings and clutch basket quick with dry primary or open belt.been working on old iron for 40 years and did this many times.
I got the 5 an 52 clutch set up. Will that bearing retainer plate install work on the 5 finger hub too? Like just make sure all 3 letters land on 3 of the 5 studs. Or is there a different plate for the 5 finger?
Hi Cody great video I have a 42wla that has ball bearings and I’m upgrading to the rollers but mine doesn’t have the grooves to install that ramjet do the 3 retainer springs work ok? Any help would be appreciated, John
If it had the retainer springs on the fingers then they need to lock into something also. The c clips should be able to lock into whatever was holding the springs on.
When a put in the snap rings on the clutch hub, the hub and basket were far too tight for my liking, and i was unable to move them back and forth, does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks. I have a 82 FXRS. After sitting most of the year the clutch plates stuck. I pulled the pressure plate and cleaned the friction and steel plates and driction plates, put it back together and adjusted the clutch. Felt great. After sitting for a week it is stuck again. Maybe I didn't clean them properly? When I take it apart this time I will install a clutch retainer. Thanks for explaining how they work.
@@vicsponjr In that case, I take the friction discs to a flat concrete surface and rub them back and forth until you get a uniform new clutch surface. Do this on both sides of each friction disc and they will stay free. Over time small amounts of oil or grime build up on the plates and make them sticky.
@@codyschoppercorner5727 I tried cleaning them with break fluid. Didn’t try scuffing them or the steel plates. I also thought I read they should be soaked in a petroleum free solvent? Maybe it’s time to replace them if this doesn’t work.
I loke my old school Harleys but they do have a gooffy natchure to them..mine sat for a long time before I bought it..once I got ot running again it had to be polarized again why and there seems to be issues with the clutches why stuff like this just aggravates the the shit
I installed ram jet on My 67 FLH to fix the wobbles, put in A positions, but it ended up melted on the bottom of clutch hub, I don't know what to do about it any advices?
@@codyschoppercorner5727 I did, the A positions on the ram jet is the one who still has freeplay on the clutch basket, now I installed with original retainers and bike is sleeping very bad, when I release the clutch in the first gear bike only move few inches and stop feels like something stuck in my clutches
Still somethings very wrong here I had a Hoda cb 750 1971 I never had any issues .or covers removed ever just kept thr oil clean and drove it and it never leaked a drop of.oil ever I could pound the shit out of it or drive it easy didn't matter always brought me home
It's getting to the point now why even have a harley any more especially now the Harleys now are 50.percent Japanese ..buy a suzuki boulavard same thing but no.more maintenance and 5 time faster
Man this video was a big help. Building my 68 chop from scratch. Thanks again. Fire in 2 weeks
That’s awesome man. Glad I could help out in some way
Appreciate this. Building my 63 and needed assistance.
Great instruction helped me out a lot on my 73 shovel .
I've been doing all these things, for years, to get my clutch to act right. Ramjet Retainer, Big Fix, 5 stud clutch hub, cast aluminum pressure plate. But I've gone one step farther and got a diaphragm spring kit, as well. No grabbing at idle. Can always find neutral. Hooks up when you want it to. And the diaphragm spring makes the clutch pull lighter than the coil springs, but gives you better pressure.
Yeah those things are really cool
Great video, thank you!
Nice to see someone with some no BS advice on how to do it properly without trying to over-sell parts and work that isn`t required. I have been doing exactly what you say for the last 45 years and 98% of the time that`s all that needs to be done. Although at 72 I`m starting to be more selective as to who I let in the door. LOL
Also want to comment on your style and delivery, you come across as a straight shooter without resorting to the all the macho sidewalk commando in your face BS. Thank you again!!
Keep up the great work and advice. Looking forward to checking out some of your other vids, I`m sure I won`t be disappointed.
That means a lot to me, especially coming from someone that has been doing this longer then I’ve been alive. Thank you.
FOOT CLUTCH BABY! Those old chatter box clutchs were originaly set up with a mouse trap clutch cable. Hand clutch doesnt keep the correct fulcrum lever travel as the mousetrap does. Foot clutch has plenty of travel, hand clutch has less. So its a very very very fine line between slipping and not disengaging. Get good at adjusting your clutch and do it over n over n over again.
great video. now my clutch will run mint
The 5 finger set up is a little loose after a bit the 3 finger feels just right after a while. Great video
Hahaha
Great video, full of sound info. Just fitting same setup on my 75 shovelhead. Excellent work, keep em coming. Cheers
Don't forget about primary belt tension. A lot of people don't have enough slack in the belt, or are not running the proper length belt. When those belts heat up, they contract and can pull the the transmission forward, causing clutch walk as well. Some guys run the old offset squirrel cage with the ramjet and a 5 finger basket. They say the squirrel cage doesn't have the diagonal play in the bearings that the big fix has. At the end of the day, I guess it's what works best for your particular set up. Also, let the clutch warm up a bit as well. Great video! Just found the channel and am enjoying it. Keep up the good work.
Thanks man. Yeah I covered the belt adjustment in the video after this one I believe. The shimming and alignment video.
A rubber band works to hold the rollers. When sliding the basket on it'll push it back. Just before the basket is all the way on
grab a pair of needle nose and yank on the rubber band breaking it.
That actually sound like a great idea!!! Thanks for sharing man.
Good warning on don't over grease the needle bearings, I over greased mine the first time I put it together. With summer heat and engine heat the grease thinned and the lube contaminated the discs. Made the clutch slip. Well, I did have quite a bit of grease on the bearings... had to remove and clean the discs while away on a trip. I learned my lesson. I used a cofy can with solvent and tooth brush, dried and reassembled the clutch. Was held up for a day to do that. 1983 FLHT Shovel 5-speed. 5 finger basket.
I discover this channel . Very good technical video . I ll come back ! Hello from France .
Right on...thanks brotherman..
I have watched several of your videos this evening! Great content!! You are on to something! Prediction: This channel is going to BLOW UP!!
That would be awesome. Thanks!
Kia ora from New Zealand, lovin all your videos so far! Please keep them coming!
Also I use a free floating nylatron disc on the back of the hub removed the riveted standard part works well
as i continue to get through my winter build, your videos keep helping me out, thanks man
That’s awesome man. Comments like these are why i do them.
Great video brother. Picked up that kit and works great! Gracias!
That’s awesome. I love to hear it.
This is good info, my shovel creeps and lurches , didnt know about the long roller bearings probably will swap to that. my clutch is roasted been living with it forever haha, with a springer makes for some interesting green lights on an uphill
At least you won’t roll back hahaha
Good video and you nailed it I own pans shovels and a few ironhead and I have had many of them óver 40 years I will always love them for what they are
Glad you liked it. Thanks for the comment
This. Is. Good. Stuff. Cody. Knows. His. Stuff. I. Got. A. 78. Shovelhead. Chopper. Been. Riding. It. Along. Time!!!!
Great video and good information, thank you.
Keep em comin,, great Vid 👌☠️☠️👌
In the old days we would measure the distance front the plate the spring sit on up to the bottom of the pressure plate. Then we would turn the nuts on top of the pressure plate to get the distance we wanted and also the pressure plate needed to be level
Yep that’s the best way of doing it. As I said in the video this is just a starting point.
I subscribed was real repairs! Thank you ride free 🇺🇸
I was told on hdforums that the 52 long rollers squeeze out the grease too easily and cause premature wear... I got an 81 Sturgis with a grabby clutch, and an 83 FXDG (twin belt wide glide) . The wide glide has a stock clutch which behaves perfect. What is different between the two is the friction discs, so thats what I am going to try next. The 81 also has a clutch retainer, a brass one which I made myself. The 81 behaved perfect too, until I replaced the primary belt. The old belt was very loose, clutch was fine. The new belt is tight, clutch problems. Probably cause the belt pulls the basket crooked against sloppy rollers. But there is no belt adjustment possibility on my 81...
I’ve never had any problems with the long rollers. I’ve personally put around 20k on a set with the original grease I installed them with and had no visible wear on disassemble. As for the belt in the original primary I don’t know man. That’s really frustrating.
thank you. great video
I’m glad you liked it.
They do make that plastic plate for the five finger I have one
Guess how you figured this stuff out if you're my age. Pre- internet. You Used to have to earn your stripes, Like a mountain man surviving the winter or a cowboy on the trail.
Cool
you need to use way more grease that plastic retainer is to keep grease in you will burn up bearings and clutch basket quick with dry primary or open belt.been working on old iron for 40 years and did this many times.
🤘
Hey just found ya. Great video s, I got a harley 79 sporster, chopper built in Indiana. Was show bike never finished. I got it up n running.
That’s awesome. I love hearing stories like that. Did you document it at all?
No I'm not on that stuff
12 years old, autorama , Youngstown Ohio saw my first show bike chopper, only moter cycle I liked. I'm 56 now had a few years now.
👍👍👍👍
I got the 5 an 52 clutch set up. Will that bearing retainer plate install work on the 5 finger hub too? Like just make sure all 3 letters land on 3 of the 5 studs. Or is there a different plate for the 5 finger?
Hi Cody great video I have a 42wla that has ball bearings and I’m upgrading to the rollers but mine doesn’t have the grooves to install that ramjet do the 3 retainer springs work ok? Any help would be appreciated, John
If it had the retainer springs on the fingers then they need to lock into something also. The c clips should be able to lock into whatever was holding the springs on.
When a put in the snap rings on the clutch hub, the hub and basket were far too tight for my liking, and i was unable to move them back and forth, does anyone have any ideas?
If you are using the kit I have in the video there should be at least two different depth settings got the snap rings.
When I'm putting the long bearings in and spin the hub it binds up. Is that Something anyone has delt with?
Sometimes it will happen. They need align themselves.
Thanks. I have a 82 FXRS. After sitting most of the year the clutch plates stuck. I pulled the pressure plate and cleaned the friction and steel plates and driction plates, put it back together and adjusted the clutch. Felt great. After sitting for a week it is stuck again. Maybe I didn't clean them properly? When I take it apart this time I will install a clutch retainer. Thanks for explaining how they work.
Are you running a oil primary? Or dry?
@@codyschoppercorner5727 dry. Just the oil feed from the vent line and return back to pump
@@vicsponjr In that case, I take the friction discs to a flat concrete surface and rub them back and forth until you get a uniform new clutch surface. Do this on both sides of each friction disc and they will stay free. Over time small amounts of oil or grime build up on the plates and make them sticky.
@@codyschoppercorner5727 I tried cleaning them with break fluid. Didn’t try scuffing them or the steel plates. I also thought I read they should be soaked in a petroleum free solvent? Maybe it’s time to replace them if this doesn’t work.
@@vicsponjr yes you can soak them overnight in mineral spirits. I find the best way is to sand off that thin layer of burn clutch material and oil.
👍😎👍
Thanks for the video, however I do have a question. Did you use the 'disc's that came with the big fix AND the ram jet disc?
No, throw the thin plastic disc in the garbage. You don’t use it.
@@codyschoppercorner5727 ok cheers Cody.👍
What is The good clutch from Harley Davidson company or aftermarket 🤔
🤙🤙🤙
Hi from Northern Ireland,a 4 speed transmission rebuild how to would be great
Chuck’s cycles has a really good video on rebuilding a 4 speed
Wil this only work for a belt drive? I have a chain drive and was told the long bearings wouldn’t work with it.
The drive makes no difference. It will work with a chain. That’s how I’m running it on my panhead.
I loke my old school Harleys but they do have a gooffy natchure to them..mine sat for a long time before I bought it..once I got ot running again it had to be polarized again why and there seems to be issues with the clutches why stuff like this just aggravates the
the shit
I installed ram jet on My 67 FLH to fix the wobbles, put in A positions, but it ended up melted on the bottom of clutch hub, I don't know what to do about it any advices?
When you fit the retainer you want a small amount of free play still. If it’s too tight it will just ruin it.
@@codyschoppercorner5727 I did, the A positions on the ram jet is the one who still has freeplay on the clutch basket, now I installed with original retainers and bike is sleeping very bad, when I release the clutch in the first gear bike only move few inches and stop feels like something stuck in my clutches
Nothing about torquing down the hub nut, or using the locking tab washer....?
Hopefully if you are to this point of modifying your clutch, you can figure out how to torque a but and use that locking washer.
Still somethings very wrong here I had a Hoda cb 750 1971 I never had any issues .or covers removed ever just kept thr oil clean and drove it and it never leaked a drop of.oil ever I could pound the shit out of it or drive it easy didn't matter always brought me home
It just aggravates the shit out of harley riders should never have to remove your primary cove
It's getting to the point now why even have a harley any more especially now the Harleys now are 50.percent Japanese ..buy a suzuki boulavard same thing but no.more maintenance and 5 time faster
You may have found the wrong channel bud. You seem to be completely missing the point.