It's really cool having found someone who wants to share his knowlege without hitting you permanently with silly publicities.Keen to see next sequences of videos.Good man👍
I thought for about 15 minutes trying to get my transmission out of my 81 shovel head and then I decided to sit down and watch pacific Mike show me how to do it the right way as always. Thanks, Mike.
Thank you Mike. I'm old and your films remind me of what I have forgotten and even better, what I never knew. I will continue to refer to your presentations (along with my shop manuals) to keep my Panhead and Shovelhead on the road as long as I am able to ride them.
Thanks Mike, I would have really messed up without your guidance . My shovel head is progressing due to your wisdom and excellent posts. Best wishes Ian , West Sussex, UK.
Great tip with the shimming and leveling. Not covered in the manuals. I have to take out my 4-speed this winter, this series is a wealth of information.
Well Mike: I'm loving-it Loving-it Loving it; There is something really satisfying about building a bike from ground up. I love the enclosed shocks, Fat-boy wheels looking so shiny with that gloss black frame. Thank you.
Thank you. Read further. Those are not Fatboy wheels. Those are spun aluminum Centerlines, not cast. It's all in our videos. I changed the front wheel to a 21" spoke. Go to our homepage and click on "videos." There's a bunch on that Shovelhead. I bought it new.
I've recently seen a video where you mentioned hoping to get some sponsors for your chanell. I sure hope you do , you guys deserve it. But you know, I couldn't help but wish you guys could open up a school , maybe just a few month advanced course on these old beauties. Like you Mike, I've learned so much from some great guys along the way but you really have a nac about how you explain things as you work and it really instills confidence in those of us who follow your channel, ( I have a habit of reading everyone's comments on your videos). I also see that you respond to people's comments and questions and that says a lot about you. You have a passion for what you do and it shows. I share that same passion. My love affair began the year I was born when my Dad brought home yet another addition to the family. A 1961 FLH that is still my one true love. It belonged to his best friend who was unfortunately killed while walking down the street by a driver running from the law one late night in 79. His mother wanted my dad to have it so he bought it from her and the rest is family history. It's a spiritual experience looking through 40 years of pictures of me and my Dad's life with this trusty old machine. I've been riding that Panhead for 24 years now, ( 24 legal years I meant) ha ha. Actually I would follow my Dad on his new fat boy at the time since around twelve or thirteen. Damn my Pops must've been nuts. A bad old paratroopers knees is what led him to buy a new bike was the real reason he passed her down so soon. How lucky can one little sht be right. But keeping her on the road and have had some pretty good luck doing it so far. Lol. Sorry for being so long winded but I just wanted you to know that I love what you guys are doing and I hope yall all the success in the world. Thanks for the knowledge you've shared with us and God bless you brothers.
Wow! Don't you dare apologize for being "long winded." That's a great personal story. Thank you for telling all who read it. And, thank you for the kind words. We'll see how things develop here. They seem to be moving along. I'm really enjoying what I've always done and the interaction with nice people.
Thank you for sharing I have a 1980 FLT Shovelhead that I have been working on a little bit to try to deal with some oil leaks and I do believe that I need a new carburetor but everything else is good looking forward to your next video
Thank you. We do stuff as it comes up. The big difference with a "generator" type motor or "flatside," is the cam chest. All of the specs are in the service manual. Be very careful about removing the cam cover. Remove the pushrods. Remove the generstor. Remove all the cam cover screws. Use a hammer handle or piece of wood inserted into the generator hole and tap it to loosen the cover from the case. Now, carefully wiggle the cover until it slides off. No screwdriver prying! Don't want to damage it! Be very careful. Not easy, but well worth the effort. As soon as one needs doing, we'll do it.
Mike, what do you think of those rear 3/8-24 x 1-1/4 rear trans plate bolts? I'm mounting my tranny at the moment and I find that there isn't enough thread for safety anyway. I'm looking for 1-1/2" fine thread bolts, but as you know, fine thread is always difficult to find.
Find a better hardware store. You can order online from a number of hardware companies, but you may have to order a quantity. Most are pretty reasonable.
Mike there is a little main gear spacer key on the 1970 hd L shaped I'm not sure how it geos back in, the short side I put facing the the transmission inward and the long side in the main gear is that right the book picture is very hard to see
You got it. That long side into the gear. The short side into the notch on the spacer. Tap that short side with a punch and hammer lightly and it will seat and stay in the notch.
I just got my frame powder coated. The engine mounting surface on the frame is stripped of paint. Should I strip the paint on the trans mounting surface on the frame too (where the plate attaches to the frame).
Good idea. Everything should ground. Ever notice that the neutral switch only has one wire? That's because it grounds to the frame, which is grounded to the motor. The frame should grounded to the forks. It makes everything electrical much easier. I always run a wire from the frame to the forks. Just good planning.
Nice setup. Could you tell me about the front end. Im looking to replace the one on my basket case. I have a shovel sitting in a panhead swinarm frame with an ugly late model fx..i think. Thanks. From a subscriber.
Okay. I believe you're referring to my Shovelhead. There are several videos and picrures of it. Look through the "Videos" on our Channel. But, in case you don't find it in there clearly, I'm using a pair of early (67) FL tripple trees. The legs, including the tubes and lowers are late model (2000 and up) and the brake calipers are in the same year group. This also necessitated using a 1" axel and front hub, which required the use of late model (big center hole) 11 1/2" rotors. You asked for it. It's a lot of stuff to come up with. I ordered and used brand new complete leg assemblies, then changed the internals to my liking. I built the front wheel. I built my own electrical panel to go inside the nacelle. I was building the bike and got carried away. I do that.
Great Video as always. Is this a 6-Speed in a 4 speed case? I would love to install a 5 speed or speed in my 1977 shovelhead frame but using the 5 speed case (so I can run an open primary with electric start)
It's all available. What a six in a four really means is that it is a six speed created to fit in a four speed frame. Mine is a Baker Drivetrain six speed built for my shovel over twenty years ago. I love it.
Hey Mike, what do you use to seal the mounting studs on the bottom of HD 4 & 5 speed transmissions? I can't afford a Baker transmission that doesn't have "through holes" for the mounting studs :)
Yes. We used the Softail trans, primary, and starter. I don't remember whether we used the five speed trans plate. It was about a dozen years ago. I think we used the five speed plate. It was pretty cool.
Those front two bolts that hold the plate to the frame... is your plate threaded for those two holes? Mine has two "special" bolts (ground away on one side for a custom fit) that drop down from the top and the ground off bolt heads hit the front side of the transmission. Seems to be stopping me from getting all the adjustment forward... but if there is clearance between the bolt heads and the transmission case I am going to guess that I don't need the full adjustment there. It just seems that your frame and transmission has much more "wriggleing" room than mine does. Thanks again!
Hey Mike. Off topic, but maybe you could help me with a brake question. I have 2 bikes with an early 70's left side drum brake setup. One is on a 76 rame with a pan/shovel motor The other is on a 53 Pan frame. The brake on the 76 is decent for a drum, the one on the 53 is useless. I've tried everything I can think of. Deglazed, sanded, put the pads from the 76 onto the 53 and finally new pads. Still no brakes to speak of. If I adjust them where I have any brakes at all, the wheel just drags. I know I'm missing something but not sure what. Riding through OK City this weekend (downtown) and I'd like to have some front brake. Considering pulling the whole front and wheel off the 76. Hate to bother ya but any advise would be great!
These old brakes will never be as good as modern disc brakes, but they're not bad. When they were new, they were the best thing at the time. All shafts must be in good shape, with properly fitted bushings. Everything must be lubed properly. Shoes (lining) must be fitted to the drum, which should be in excellent shape. Adjustment must be "as per the book." Sorry, this is just old technology.
@@pacificmike9501 Mike it's been age's since I've seen or even thought about fitting the shoes to the drum, do you have a video on how we could do that at home? This is a terrific article. Thank you for sharing! 😎
That is a "Centerline" wheel. It came off of a 2003 Harley Davidson "Screamin Eagle Roadking." It was factory equipment supplied to Harley Davidson by Centerline. It is not a cast wheel. It is spun aluminum.
Mike, do you by chance know what size the 5th boot is ? Tried looking in the parts manual and can not find it listed anywhere. I am assuming it is a 3/8-24 but want to make sure. Mine is missing.
I believe it should be a 3/8 X 24. However, although the original insert was cast into the trans case, people still manage to damage them. Carefully put a 3/8 X 24 in there and "feel" it in place carefully. It may be okay. There is a reason the bolt is missing. Once you have it in place, tighten the trans studs a little at a time, going from the left side of the bike to the right side, finishing with the fifth bolt. You didn't say what the bike is. If it is an early, 1984-1985 Softail with a four speed, the bolt is usually missing and you'll have to remove the right shock to install it. Don't install a bolt that is too long or it will penetrate the bottom of the case when you tighten it.
Hey Mike going over a Panhead I just bought and found the mounting plate is broken just in front of the rear tire. Will I need to pull the primary and transmission to put in a new one? Hardtail frame 4 speed transmission.
Harley transmissions are awesome and years ago were used on lots of things. They're quite rugged. However, for building other machines than the ones they're intended for, they're just too expensive. And today, there are many kinds of efficient and relatively inexpensive types of drives. That's why an old guy who is "computer illiterate," has learned to use the internet.
Hey Mike, Hope the day finds you well and enjoying your projects. I've been scrolling through your videos looking for one that could answer a question fairly directly but I'm not finding what I think I'm looking for. Here's what I'm working with... In a nutshell, I'm wanting to swap transmissions from a 4 spd kicker to a 6 spd baker w/kicker on my '75 FXE. Is a complete tear down necessary for this type of swap?
I do show installing the transmission on my own Shovelhead. It is one of the first Baker six speeds for a Shovelhead that Baker made. I've run it for over fifteen years. Go to our CZcams Homepage and click on the word "videos." It just goes in place of the original trans. A little work here and there because is sticks out a ways on the right side. Exhaust pipes are an issue.
It looks like you found it. I showed it after replacing the frame on my Shovel. It's just got to do with whatever you've got. Again, clearing pipes, supporting the battery box, just little stuff here and there. Mine uses an electronic pickup for the speedometer. That's about all I remember. I love it.
@@pacificmike9501 thank you so much! If my exhaust is an issue it might be time for a change there, as well. I'll drop you a line if/when I get this thing up and at it!
Cool. There isn't an exhaust system I know of that will fit. With STD heads and the Baker 6speed, I took four pair of used exhaust pipes and a long piece of tubing and a pair of flanges, and my buddy Nathan made 'em from there. Look at pictures of my Shovelhead.
Hi Mike! I was hoping you could help me with something. I just installed a new Harley nose cone on my 92 FXSTC Evo. I installed a new Standard pick up plate. When changing them out I understand that I need to remove the original black plug and insert the three wires into it as the new pick up only comes with the connectors. Is there a trick to removing the pins from my old one? I don't want to make a mess out of it.. Can you or anyone guide me on this? Thanks, Ed
I believe the tools are shown in the service manual. However, any good tool supply or electronics shop should be able to fix you right up. Take the plug with you.
Mike.....Sure enough, the local computer repair shop hooked me up. He had seen that style plug before. All he did was squeeze the rubber plug between his thumb and index finger putting pressure around the whole circumference then he simply pulled each wire out easily. I kind felt like a dummy watching him do it so easily but.....it worked! My nose cone with new pickup plate went on today without a hitch. Thanks for your input pal!
There are so many ways to "lock" a bolt, and they're all good. And, the right hardware for the job sometimes becomes a matter of opinion. Usually, the way the manufacturer of the machine does it, is pretty good. The manufacturer has a tremendous liability and a competent engineering department.
It's really cool having found someone who wants to share his knowlege without hitting you permanently with silly publicities.Keen to see next sequences of videos.Good man👍
Thank you.
Another simply great video from a great person. Thank you again.
Just a guy, thank you. But, I'm really glad you enjoy these videos.
I thought for about 15 minutes trying to get my transmission out of my 81 shovel head and then I decided to sit down and watch pacific Mike show me how to do it the right way as always. Thanks, Mike.
Glad you enjoyed it.
Thank you Mike. I'm old and your films remind me of what I have forgotten and even better, what I never knew. I will continue to refer to your presentations (along with my shop manuals) to keep my Panhead and Shovelhead on the road as long as I am able to ride them.
Thank you, and let's try and make it for a long time to come.
Thanks Mike, I would have really messed up without your guidance . My shovel head is progressing due to your wisdom and excellent posts.
Best wishes Ian , West Sussex, UK.
Glad to help
Thank You.
Great tip with the shimming and leveling. Not covered in the manuals. I have to take out my 4-speed this winter, this series is a wealth of information.
Thank you. Glad this benefits you.
Well Mike: I'm loving-it Loving-it Loving it; There is something really satisfying about building a bike from ground up.
I love the enclosed shocks, Fat-boy wheels looking so shiny with that gloss black frame. Thank you.
Thank you. Read further. Those are not Fatboy wheels. Those are spun aluminum Centerlines, not cast. It's all in our videos. I changed the front wheel to a 21" spoke. Go to our homepage and click on "videos." There's a bunch on that Shovelhead. I bought it new.
I've recently seen a video where you mentioned hoping to get some sponsors for your chanell. I sure hope you do , you guys deserve it. But you know, I couldn't help but wish you guys could open up a school , maybe just a few month advanced course on these old beauties. Like you Mike, I've learned so much from some great guys along the way but you really have a nac about how you explain things as you work and it really instills confidence in those of us who follow your channel, ( I have a habit of reading everyone's comments on your videos). I also see that you respond to people's comments and questions and that says a lot about you. You have a passion for what you do and it shows. I share that same passion. My love affair began the year I was born when my Dad brought home yet another addition to the family. A 1961 FLH that is still my one true love. It belonged to his best friend who was unfortunately killed while walking down the street by a driver running from the law one late night in 79. His mother wanted my dad to have it so he bought it from her and the rest is family history. It's a spiritual experience looking through 40 years of pictures of me and my Dad's life with this trusty old machine. I've been riding that Panhead for 24 years now, ( 24 legal years I meant) ha ha. Actually I would follow my Dad on his new fat boy at the time since around twelve or thirteen. Damn my Pops must've been nuts. A bad old paratroopers knees is what led him to buy a new bike was the real reason he passed her down so soon. How lucky can one little sht be right. But keeping her on the road and have had some pretty good luck doing it so far. Lol. Sorry for being so long winded but I just wanted you to know that I love what you guys are doing and I hope yall all the success in the world. Thanks for the knowledge you've shared with us and God bless you brothers.
Wow! Don't you dare apologize for being "long winded." That's a great personal story. Thank you for telling all who read it. And, thank you for the kind words. We'll see how things develop here. They seem to be moving along. I'm really enjoying what I've always done and the interaction with nice people.
Thank you for sharing I have a 1980 FLT Shovelhead that I have been working on a little bit to try to deal with some oil leaks and I do believe that I need a new carburetor but everything else is good looking forward to your next video
Thank you, we'll be doing more stuff as it comes up.
Thanks for the videos, they are informative.
Thank you. Glad you enjoy them.
Mike, really good video. Well done!
Thank you very much!
Thank you Mike; I must say that spun rear wheel, does look the business.
Thank You. It really is quite a piece of equipment. And, I run it tubless for a "quick fix" on the road.
I like the disc brake on the rear with the round swingarm.
Thank You. I always thought it would be cool, but, I finally got around to it.
Bob Ross of motorcycles.
Thank you.
This guy should work for radio. What a voice. I’d do anything he told me.
Thank You.
nice, thanks!
Thank you. We're back at it and will be producing more soon.
Top bloke
Thank you.
Super helpfull!
Nice to hear. Thank you. Glad it was helpful to you.
Great teaching Mike. Do you have one (or more) videos on rebuilding a flatside bottom? I have a 67 I want to rebuild.
Thank you. We do stuff as it comes up. The big difference with a "generator" type motor or "flatside," is the cam chest. All of the specs are in the service manual. Be very careful about removing the cam cover. Remove the pushrods. Remove the generstor. Remove all the cam cover screws. Use a hammer handle or piece of wood inserted into the generator hole and tap it to loosen the cover from the case. Now, carefully wiggle the cover until it slides off. No screwdriver prying! Don't want to damage it! Be very careful. Not easy, but well worth the effort. As soon as one needs doing, we'll do it.
Mike, what do you think of those rear 3/8-24 x 1-1/4 rear trans plate bolts? I'm mounting my tranny at the moment and I find that there isn't enough thread for safety anyway. I'm looking for 1-1/2" fine thread bolts, but as you know, fine thread is always difficult to find.
Find a better hardware store. You can order online from a number of hardware companies, but you may have to order a quantity. Most are pretty reasonable.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks, Mike. I found a pack of 10 on Ebay. Now my trans wont get left in the middle of the road.
Mike there is a little main gear spacer key on the 1970 hd L shaped I'm not sure how it geos back in, the short side I put facing the the transmission inward and the long side in the main gear is that right the book picture is very hard to see
You got it. That long side into the gear. The short side into the notch on the spacer. Tap that short side with a punch and hammer lightly and it will seat and stay in the notch.
Hi Mike. Awsome videos. Are you aligning the shim with the front left hole so the frame bolt runs through?
Yes.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks Mike. Keep up the great work.
I just got my frame powder coated. The engine mounting surface on the frame is stripped of paint. Should I strip the paint on the trans mounting surface on the frame too (where the plate attaches to the frame).
Good idea. Everything should ground. Ever notice that the neutral switch only has one wire? That's because it grounds to the frame, which is grounded to the motor. The frame should grounded to the forks. It makes everything electrical much easier. I always run a wire from the frame to the forks. Just good planning.
Love these video's . Can the rear shock's on my 75 shovel be adjusted
Thank You. And yes, although I can't see them from here, I haven't seen any you couldn't adjust.
Seems like a good quick video. I'd love to see how in those old chrome covered rear shocks. Thanks!@@pacificmike9501
Nice setup. Could you tell me about the front end. Im looking to replace the one on my basket case. I have a shovel sitting in a panhead swinarm frame with an ugly late model fx..i think. Thanks. From a subscriber.
Okay. I believe you're referring to my Shovelhead. There are several videos and picrures of it. Look through the "Videos" on our Channel. But, in case you don't find it in there clearly, I'm using a pair of early (67) FL tripple trees. The legs, including the tubes and lowers are late model (2000 and up) and the brake calipers are in the same year group. This also necessitated using a 1" axel and front hub, which required the use of late model (big center hole) 11 1/2" rotors. You asked for it. It's a lot of stuff to come up with. I ordered and used brand new complete leg assemblies, then changed the internals to my liking. I built the front wheel. I built my own electrical panel to go inside the nacelle. I was building the bike and got carried away. I do that.
Great Video as always. Is this a 6-Speed in a 4 speed case?
I would love to install a 5 speed or speed in my 1977 shovelhead frame but using the 5 speed case (so I can run an open primary with electric start)
It's all available. What a six in a four really means is that it is a six speed created to fit in a four speed frame. Mine is a Baker Drivetrain six speed built for my shovel over twenty years ago. I love it.
@@pacificmike9501 what type of mounting plate did you use? Was there an offset?
Hey Mike, what do you use to seal the mounting studs on the bottom of HD 4 & 5 speed transmissions? I can't afford a Baker transmission that doesn't have "through holes" for the mounting studs :)
Liquid teflon works very well.
Hi Mike, have you ever put a softail 5 speed in a late model shovelhead? Can it be done? Thanks, love your vid's!
Yes. We used the Softail trans, primary, and starter. I don't remember whether we used the five speed trans plate. It was about a dozen years ago. I think we used the five speed plate. It was pretty cool.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks, I like the 5 speed idea better. A little more research and if nothing else I'll have a good collection of parts, lol.
Those front two bolts that hold the plate to the frame... is your plate threaded for those two holes? Mine has two "special" bolts (ground away on one side for a custom fit) that drop down from the top and the ground off bolt heads hit the front side of the transmission. Seems to be stopping me from getting all the adjustment forward... but if there is clearance between the bolt heads and the transmission case I am going to guess that I don't need the full adjustment there. It just seems that your frame and transmission has much more "wriggleing" room than mine does. Thanks again!
Kinda hard to judge from here. My frame is a 68.
@@pacificmike9501 mine is a 1973.
Hey Mike. Off topic, but maybe you could help me with a brake question.
I have 2 bikes with an early 70's left side drum brake setup.
One is on a 76 rame with a pan/shovel motor
The other is on a 53 Pan frame.
The brake on the 76 is decent for a drum, the one on the 53 is useless.
I've tried everything I can think of. Deglazed, sanded, put the pads from the 76 onto the 53 and finally new pads.
Still no brakes to speak of. If I adjust them where I have any brakes at all, the wheel just drags.
I know I'm missing something but not sure what.
Riding through OK City this weekend (downtown) and I'd like to have some front brake. Considering pulling the whole front and wheel off the 76.
Hate to bother ya but any advise would be great!
These old brakes will never be as good as modern disc brakes, but they're not bad. When they were new, they were the best thing at the time. All shafts must be in good shape, with properly fitted bushings. Everything must be lubed properly. Shoes (lining) must be fitted to the drum, which should be in excellent shape. Adjustment must be "as per the book." Sorry, this is just old technology.
@@pacificmike9501 Mike it's been age's since I've seen or even thought about fitting the shoes to the drum, do you have a video on how we could do that at home? This is a terrific article. Thank you for sharing! 😎
mike, the rear solid wheel in this video, who is the manufacturer of it? thanks
That is a "Centerline" wheel. It came off of a 2003 Harley Davidson "Screamin Eagle Roadking." It was factory equipment supplied to Harley Davidson by Centerline. It is not a cast wheel. It is spun aluminum.
Mike, do you by chance know what size the 5th boot is ? Tried looking in the parts manual and can not find it listed anywhere. I am assuming it is a 3/8-24 but want to make sure. Mine is missing.
I believe it should be a 3/8 X 24. However, although the original insert was cast into the trans case, people still manage to damage them. Carefully put a 3/8 X 24 in there and "feel" it in place carefully. It may be okay. There is a reason the bolt is missing. Once you have it in place, tighten the trans studs a little at a time, going from the left side of the bike to the right side, finishing with the fifth bolt. You didn't say what the bike is. If it is an early, 1984-1985 Softail with a four speed, the bolt is usually missing and you'll have to remove the right shock to install it. Don't install a bolt that is too long or it will penetrate the bottom of the case when you tighten it.
Is that swingarm from a factory fl, I own an 83 fxe and the swingarm is very different and square
That is a Big Twin 1958-1972 swingarm. I like them, so I did it. It took a lot of doing.
Hey Mike going over a Panhead I just bought and found the mounting plate is broken just in front of the rear tire. Will I need to pull the primary and transmission to put in a new one? Hardtail frame 4 speed transmission.
Sounds like fun to me. Not bad. Yep, you gotta pull it all.
@@pacificmike9501 thank you love your channel
Have you seen people adapt these transmissions to other engines, like a diesel gen, briggs v twin etc??
Harley transmissions are awesome and years ago were used on lots of things. They're quite rugged. However, for building other machines than the ones they're intended for, they're just too expensive. And today, there are many kinds of efficient and relatively inexpensive types of drives. That's why an old guy who is "computer illiterate," has learned to use the internet.
Hey Mike,
Hope the day finds you well and enjoying your projects.
I've been scrolling through your videos looking for one that could answer a question fairly directly but I'm not finding what I think I'm looking for.
Here's what I'm working with...
In a nutshell, I'm wanting to swap transmissions from a 4 spd kicker to a 6 spd baker w/kicker on my '75 FXE.
Is a complete tear down necessary for this type of swap?
I do show installing the transmission on my own Shovelhead. It is one of the first Baker six speeds for a Shovelhead that Baker made. I've run it for over fifteen years. Go to our CZcams Homepage and click on the word "videos." It just goes in place of the original trans. A little work here and there because is sticks out a ways on the right side. Exhaust pipes are an issue.
It looks like you found it. I showed it after replacing the frame on my Shovel. It's just got to do with whatever you've got. Again, clearing pipes, supporting the battery box, just little stuff here and there. Mine uses an electronic pickup for the speedometer. That's about all I remember. I love it.
@@pacificmike9501 thank you so much! If my exhaust is an issue it might be time for a change there, as well. I'll drop you a line if/when I get this thing up and at it!
Cool. There isn't an exhaust system I know of that will fit. With STD heads and the Baker 6speed, I took four pair of used exhaust pipes and a long piece of tubing and a pair of flanges, and my buddy Nathan made 'em from there. Look at pictures of my Shovelhead.
It's a beautiful bike, and that exhaust looks and sounds great!
Is your shovelhead with the six speed kick only?
Nope. It has a modern electric starter, a little better than its oiginal.
Hi Mike! I was hoping you could help me with something. I just installed a new Harley nose cone on my 92 FXSTC Evo. I installed a new Standard pick up plate. When changing them out I understand that I need to remove the original black plug and insert the three wires into it as the new pick up only comes with the connectors. Is there a trick to removing the pins from my old one? I don't want to make a mess out of it.. Can you or anyone guide me on this? Thanks, Ed
I believe the tools are shown in the service manual. However, any good tool supply or electronics shop should be able to fix you right up. Take the plug with you.
@@pacificmike9501 Mike......I thought about the electronics repair place also. I will go that route. Thanks!!
Mike.....Sure enough, the local computer repair shop hooked me up. He had seen that style plug before. All he did was squeeze the rubber plug between his thumb and index finger putting pressure around the whole circumference then he simply pulled each wire out easily. I kind felt like a dummy watching him do it so easily but.....it worked! My nose cone with new pickup plate went on today without a hitch. Thanks for your input pal!
...ever use bolts with cotter pins for safety?
There are so many ways to "lock" a bolt, and they're all good. And, the right hardware for the job sometimes becomes a matter of opinion. Usually, the way the manufacturer of the machine does it, is pretty good. The manufacturer has a tremendous liability and a competent engineering department.
Thanks for the reply.
I’m about to pull down a shovel chopper to repaint it for the first time and your vids are super helpful. Thanks mate