MOST IMPORTANT GOLF CLUB BUILDING REPAIR TOOL
Vložit
- čas přidán 15. 06. 2024
- This maybe the most important tool to have in your shop when building and repairing golf clubs, and too many people don't know about them. I show you why and how to use Brass Shims for club assembly.
- Sport
Great tips as always
You are the best! Thanks AJ.
Excellent tip
There's always something new to learn when I visit this channel.
Thanks AJ
Great video, 👍🏻 watching it all come together and how the shims come into play.
I think that at some point I may have to, but until I do resharft some golf clubs, your channel is my education.
Very, very helpful tip
Excellent Video, just about to build some pxg irons with different ferrules... Was very helpful
Really appreciate all of your help!!! I have been watching a lot of your videos recently!! I have been around the game my whole life and my mother was a golf professional so I have had the opportunity to learn from her and many others general club repair. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge and wisdom!! Your videos and explanations are fantastic!!
Thank you. I appreciate the support!
Exactly the situation I have. With the ferrule brand I’m buying. Same shaft, only in doing with the 101T. This answered my question completely.
Agree 100%…centering ferrules can be a nightmare…shims are great to ensure a tight fit…thanks!!!!💪🏼👍🏻
This is the knowledge I've been looking for on the ping centering ferrules, I didn't want to be stuck with that just black ferrule. I have some Osaka blue ferrules from bbfco coming that will look great.
I've been a subscriber for several months and must say that you do an excellent job of conveying interesting information! I enjoyed seeing that Club Scout freq meter on your workbench. I have one with the torque measuring attachment that I used all the time until I gave up clubmaking a few years ago. It's not a sleekly designed piece of equipment but it definitely works well!
You could pay more for expensive, sleek packaging but this one does all it needs to do. Thanks for the support!
Thank you! It worked out well. Can you do a video on using fishing line as a centering option over brass inserts. Or the sheet rock tape? I can’t get it to stop riding up. There isn’t any info online
Thanks for this video. Bought some pxg ferrules and didn't work well at all.
AJ, thank you for all the lessons! Listening to you has given me the confidence to reshaft my first set of old cobra irons. The process is quite satisfying. I also don’t feel bad if I mess up a cheap set irons. I don’t think there is much that would ruin the heads if I take it slow and steady.
Love to hear that, and you're doing it the right way starting with a cheaper set to learn on.
Good morning A J. Great stuff. Where can I find more information about these Lakomo heads. Looking forward to when you do analysis on these heads. Thanks and keep up the good work.
takomogolf.com is where I'd start. Hoping to do a build and review soon.
Interesting what you said about Callaways. I had a rogue 5w break the shaft off right at the hosel. When I dressed the tip to rebuild it had so much room. Had to end up cutting 1 or 2 of the legs off the shim to get it in the hosel but it's worked great.
Word of warning on graphite shafts, be careful when trying out the fit, the shim can polish the raw graphite a little. Not sure if it would make a difference but not worth finding out!
Yeah, pretty much any Cally bonded hosel wood will need a shim.
I have loads of brass shims in my workshop, and use them often. What I find interesting in using a taper tip shaft in a parallel hosel, ive always tried to match the hosel fitting up with the shaft. This opens up a few more doors. Thank you.
I used to do the same but have now decided that constant weight is always better so if I can install a set of constant weights, I will choose that. Of course you can find some constant weight .370 sets, but options are limited.
@@EFGMC agreed, thanks for your help.
Hey AJ what a brilliant video this is exactly what im going to do with my Pings.. quick question though do you still add glass beading to the apoxy mix? Many thanks, Rob
I have gotten to where I always add a little to my mix. I never use more than 5% beads to epoxy but no issues if you want to use both.
Hi AJ. Great content as usual. Really enjoy watching. Those heads , to me , look like they are designed based on Bridgestone j40 heads I am reshafting said irons 5- pw with graphite I have got some graphite shafte extensions as my shafts are all 7 iron length. Would it work if I add these to two shafts and cut down to suit for 5 and 6 iron. Or have I wasted my money.
Personally I only like to use extensions up to about 1 1/4 inches, so you should be fine extending 1/2 and 1 inch for the 6 and 5.
There's no real rule for this, it's just my preference of how much extension I want under the lead hand. But again your case should be fine.
Thanks AJ. 👍
Thank you , appreciate the videos. A quick question, changing graphite shafts between 2 driving irons. One has .355 and the other .370 diameter. Attaching the brass shim to the .355 to fit the .370 graphite shaft will not affect the structure or performance in anyway? thanks
No issues
Hello and thank you so much for these videos! Have learned so much, changed shafts in my wedges using your method and (hopefully) it has worked out very well ! Now, over to a bit more complicated process as you had a video on. My PXG irons. Bought a new set of Nippon shafts which are .335 TP. There are quite a bit of different information (conflicting as well) about the PXG hosel. Do you know the acutal size ? The reason for asking is that i'm sure I get the right ferrules hosel - .335. And as you have said, don't really want to use those black cheap looking Ping ferrules.
From this video and the Ping reshafting video I seen that the brass shims are the way to go anyways, and the process seems easy enough. Way easier than the colared ferrel which every store say it a must buy.. Starting off the project this week, do you have any tips for me regarding this? Never done a proper reshafting before. Thank you so much for all you easy to follow videos on the topic ! Greatings from Norway!
I always reshaft PXG with .355 taper shafts and end up using the biggest brass shim I have, it's rated .370 to .400 although those numbers really don't matter. The great thing about brass shims are how malleable they are so you can get them to fit in varied applications.
My best tips are
1) make sure all the surfaces are prepped and clean
2) make sure all contact surfaces have epoxy on them
3) use 24h epoxy so you have all the time you need for the process and don't feel rushed
4) PXG can have very deep hosels. Don't feel like you need to insert the shaft all the way into the bottom of hosel. 1 1/4 inch is more than enough, then just make sure all the clubs have the same insertion depth.
AJ, please consider building some New Level clubs. They are clubsmith friendly as they sell heads only and have great forged iron heads. I am not an ambassador, just strong on their products.
Noted. Might send them a message at some point soon.
Any considerations for swing weight when adding shims? I usually use them taped on with the hosel when dry swing weighting. Also, what do you do when tapered tip shafts and tapered hosels are still loose. Still use shims but trim them or centering beads?
The shims only weight about 1 gram each so not much influence and since you are presumably using them in all the clubs the overall SW of the set will remain the same, and that's the important part.
If the heads are loose I will either use different shim sizes or drywall mesh tape. Centering beads shouldn't be used for overly loose fits.
Hi Mobile' I'm fitting pullout .335's into .350 bore Callaways (fws and drivers)...will I have to use those 'troublesome' centering ferrules ? - I guess brass shims are out of the question for Bore Thrus. Golfworks said the ferrule adapters work fine with no issues, but I can't stand the look of the ferrules either.
They made a .335 to .350 adapter for those back in the day. Not sure they exist anymore. Could try the brass and see what happens. Just make sure no one is standing close by just in case. 😅
I’m just about to re-shaft a set of PXG’s and just purchased a set of brass shims. Great content although I’m guessing you’ve made that look easier than it actually is. 🤞
PXG is really very straight forward when using brass shims. They are 100x better than trying to use the specialized PXG adapters.
@@EFGMCwhich size shims did u buy for pxg?
@@wbubbles5960 .370-.400 shims. The biggest ones. Remember if they are tight, you can trim some of the legs off them to adjust the size.
@@EFGMC massive thank you. Ps your vids have given me the confidence to try a bunch of modifications out. So far they’ve all worked out 👍
Great club-building knowledge as always, thanks.
Besides the constant weight feature by using tapered shafts to fit parallel hosel, is there any other benefit for doing so？ Also, while shim can fill the gap, wouldn't such make the club to play softer because the shaft tip is smaller than it is supposed to be？
Thanks！
Weight is most important. Having constant weight vs descending weight is much preferred.
You also in theory have less work to do during install b/c you only butt trim in most cases.
Flex doesn't change based on taper vs parallel, at least not enough for any golfer to worry about. I will always vote taper constant weight vs parallel blanks. There are a few brands that make .370 parallel constant weight sets (Nippon, some PX), but they are harder to find.
@@EFGMC Thanks 😊 a lot for your further inputs, much appreciated.
One question though, you mentioned that there are some .370 parallel-tip constant weight shafts available. Does it mean that such shafts would weigh the same AFTER the required tip- and butt- trimmed？！
Do Aerotech's Steelfiber parallel shafts have the "constant weight" feature after tip- and butt-trimmed？ Or, only models with ascending mass/ weight can provide the constant weight after trimming? Thank you!
@@wilsonhung8654 The .370 constant weight shafts are not blanks (aka 41 inch raw shafts). They are sold as individual length shafts that match up with a specific head, just like taper shafts. You would treat them just like a taper tip shaft and only butt trim.
@@EFGMC Wow, that's very special. Thank you for the information again!
Desperate for an answer. I am installing a .335 graphite shaft into a Ping K15 three wood with a .35 hosel. Purchased two brass shims, but with one shim the shaft still has too much play. Did a dry run with two shims, and the fit is perfect. Before I glue, is it ok to install the shaft with two shims? Cannot find an answer to this anywhere. My prep of the hosel and shaft is perfect, and am ready to glue pending an answer. Love all your tutorials. Very easy to follow. Greetings from down under. Peter and Pam.
I've never tried using two shims at once so I can't say what will happen with the epoxy bond. They do make at least 3 different sizes of shims including a much thicker one.
You could also use drywall mesh tape and 1 shim as another option. Tape wrapped one or two layers think around bottom inch of shaft. Epoxy over that, then shim over that with a bit more epoxy to coat the shim legs.
I have used this method with a couple random clubs and to my knowledge they stayed together.
In either case I would use max strength 24 hour epoxy for the best chance of success.
@@EFGMC Many thanks AJ. I will give the double shim thingy a go. The club is old and if it fails I’m not too fussed. Can always pull the shaft and re-do. Am using the Brampton 20/20 long cure epoxy. Down the track, I will post an update on how it performed for anyone interested. Love your videos. Full of good stuff. Regards, Peter.
Further to the double shim in my k15 three wood….all good. Played comp today and no issues with the new shaft using 2 shims. On assembly, made sure all contacting surfaces were keyed (roughened) with wet-and-dry, including both shims, hosel and shaft tip. Used the Brampton long cure epoxy and covered all surfaces, including each inner/outer shim surface. Used a .350 ferrule on the .335 shaft and everything fitted perfectly. Peter.
Hi AJ, if I don't have the solvent you use, what can I use as a substitute?
Mineral spirits is the best option.
How well do they work if using a tip weight?
How much space do they take?
Less shaft in hosel when you add a weight and a shim.
If you have a shim and a steel shaft tip weight you probably have 1/16 of an inch shorter depth from it. Not enough to worry about especially if they are used throughout a set of irons so it's a uniform change.
I can not think of anything bad to say about them. By far the best option for the task.
I have a TM M2 iron apart. 0.370 with centering ferrule. With the ferrule off, it still wobbles. Shaft measures 0.365-0.370. Installing 0.355T shafts and have brass shims on order. Concerned it might not be enough. What other options available? Double up on brass shims? Ping oversized ferrule?
Shims come in a few different sizes so one of them should work. Drywall mesh tape is also an option and I will on occasion use both mesh tape and brass shim. I never use multiple brass shims though.
Lovely. Can you tell me what i need to build clubs myself? Like machines, equipment etc etc. Or where to order? Thanks in advance
Check out some of my other build videos. I would start with these 2. First one shows how to build without any specialized tools. Second one is a more traditional build with more power equipment. End result is the same, just depends how much time vs money you want to invest.
czcams.com/video/rwKquntylmM/video.html
czcams.com/video/htouThdUbBY/video.html
@@EFGMC thank you so much. I learned a lot from you. Time to reward you for that. 👍🏻🙏🏻
Should I put brass shim on .355 taper tip going into callaway apex pro?
Callaway often needs some sort of shim to get a good fit. I use brass shims or modified brass shims on them.
Did you aline the shaft centre line and face before the apoxy set
Shafts were installed logo down.
What size of bbf ferrules did you use? .355 or .370? Im wanting to change my pxgs with some px lzs but will a .355 ferrule sit flush with the pxg head?
I think all the plastic ones are .355 and only the aluminum ones are .370
The .355 fit nicely on PXG (just did a set yesterday) and require minimal turning to get the size perfect.
Hi, do you have any recommendations of where to buy used or new golf club making tools? I’m on a tight budget and looking to start my own shop. Thanks!! -thegolfguy
Ebay, online community marketplaces, and if you find a golf retailer or course going out of business, can sometimes buy equipment from them.
@@EFGMC awesome, thanks professor!
And when re-using a graphite shaft that already has a tip weight glued into it.... Do you need to remove this tip weight to allow for air to pass through the shaft before reshafting into new head? Thanks
Either remove it or drill a small vent hole through it to allow for pressure release. Unless the fit is quite loose (which is never what you want), that pressure build up will cause issues without a way to escape.
@@EFGMC you're the best!!
May I ask, what is the glass container called you use to hold acetone? Thank you.
It's a small candle stick holder. The hole holds about a quarter oz of liquid and it's glass so the acetone doesn't dissolve it.
@@EFGMC That is perfect for that. It looks like it was made for it.
I'm going to reshaft my Takomo 101's with KBS Tour Lite Stiff shafts, do you think I'll need to use shims?
If you are using .355 tip shafts then you will need the shims.
@@EFGMC Thanks so much for the quick reply.I love your channel, subscribed!
How about some tips on removing them when replacing a shaft. I found one in my last shaft swap, it was a pain to get out.
Need to pull them right when you pull the shaft so the epoxy is still rubbery. Usually will use the edge of a utility knife and scrap them off. Just be careful not to cut into shaft when dealing with graphite.
@@EFGMC mine was stuck inside the club & didn’t come out with the shaft.
@@BombproofCraftsman Drill out. If epoxy is warm, it will usually come out easily. Use something in the 1/4 to 3/8 bit size. Irons are really easy, just drill to the base of hosel. Woods you need to be a bit more careful. Needle nose pliers also help.
What do you do if the head is tapered and the shaft is a parallel tip and too big to go into the head ...
Thanks
If the shaft is steel, then you need to ream out the head to .370
If the shaft is graphite, you can sand down the tip to .355
@@EFGMC thank you
Is using these for .355 graphite iron shafts for .370 hosels ok? Or would you not recommend that?
Yes, perfectly fine.
Will it be easy to remove the shaft?
No different from pulling any other shaft. Shim usually comes out still attached to the shaft with graphite, steel shafts it usually stays in the hosel and you pull it out with pliers.
The question I have is regarding the club build. I notice you didn’t use a tip weight. Did the all the club components equal the right swing weight? How often is a tip weight needed when building club if you’re trying to get just the standard swing weight.
I didn't show it but this particular set needed additional weight in 2 of the 7 heads and they were the 9 and PW. That is pretty good as I will often have at least 3 that need adjusting. Just depends on the set. Sometimes none need any help.
Thank you for the additional information. These videos really help us hobbyist that are just getting into club building.
... is there an extra long brass shim that fits snug with bore thrus maybe ? I could just grind off the bottom, like....
What heads are you using?
@@EFGMC Callaway GBB II woods 3,5,7 (2002)
Gotta have steel for woods and they don't come in 350 tips.
...very few woods back then ever did.
and the stock ferrules on those looked hideous like the plastic adapters do, so there wouldn't be much aesthetic loss there :)
Can you use these shims on a 350 adapter going on a 335 tip
You should be able to find that size shim.
No epoxy into the head?
I always put epoxy in the heads also. I like a small amount of epoxy on all surfaces that will be bonded; hosel, shim, and shaft tip.
The shims that PXG sells are so much better to let you no
I don't use them either. Have found the same issues and design flaws with them. Not surprising since they are all old Ping engineers over there.
Keep it up"Nice.!!! This channel desperately needs P-R-O-M-O-S-M!
Nerd alert 😉