Never Do This When Reshafting Golf Clubs
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- čas přidán 7. 03. 2023
- This video talks about 4 things to avoid doing when reshafting or building golf clubs.
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I've messed around with club building/repair for many years. Your videos are, by far, the most informative and user friendly I've ever seen. I appreciate you putting this information out there.
That's because he shows every single step and walks through everything without skipping any steps. So refreshing.
i just did my first set of clubs and after ~10 rounds ended up having 2 failures on the range... I made the mistakes in this video🤡😳, thanks for your help I wish I found your channel sooner. I've got lots to learn but this channel is super helpful!
I agree with everything stated, especially not using fast drying epoxy. Slow drying epoxy is stronger which is another huge advantage.
AJ you are awesome dude. 👌 just starting my journey into club repairs and builds. I love these videos
You're right about the collared ferrules...callaway is notorious for using this with their newer woods...the fit well on dry tests, but they don't fit and always leave a gap once you try to insert epoxied shafts..I started epoxing the ferrule in then the shaft after the ferrule is cured
YES! Take your time... Don't rush it. Measure twice cut once. ESPECIALLY in todays market finding custom shafts are EXPENSIVE. And LABEL EVERYTHING!!! The clubheads on the face and back, the shafts, both top and bottom. Help me a lot on my first build.
Great stuff! I always enjoy your videos. Keep them coming.
Great instructional video, AJ! Thank you for sharing!
Thank you. Your reply was very much appreciated.
I was wondering about the collared ferrules. Never made sense that you couldn’t use a regular ferrule in a collared/stepped iron hosel. Great video to answer that. Thank you
Highly recommend the 24hr epoxy for any more than 1 club if it's your first time. I had 2 wedges and the epoxy was hardening by the time I got to the 2nd one while i was making sure the shaft was in place and lined up how I wanted. Had to rush to mix more and was unnecessary stress on a relatively easy job. Great info about the ferrule too
Great advice, thanks
Useful video thanks. Enlightening on the collared ferrule. Just double checking as per other comments here that this also applies to PXG irons as I have built several lately using their collared ferrules and it certainly ‘felt’/‘seemed’ like this was necessary - but I will defer to your expert judgement on this AJ?!
Thanks AJ, have you talked about pulling graphite shafts before? I'm always a little on edge when I do it and am looking for a sure fire method where I can't compromise the shaft integrity.
You definitely know what you are talking about, I’ve known this for years and have built my own clubs for years as a hobby. All trial and error as I didn’t know what I know now. Worked in a tool room many years ago and I think outside the box which helps with my mad thinking. All that matters is it works or it doesn’t. They try to make repairing clubs very difficult for a reason. Money.
Great video. How about doing one on replacing a LAB DF 2.1 shaft?
Thank you so much!!!
I completely agree that collared ferrules are worthless for adapting the shaft diameter to the hosel bore - but in my experience they do creep less than uncollared ones. The collar provides much more surface area to bond the ferrule to the hosel compared to the annulus at the end of an uncollared ferrule. As the shaft wiggles (as shown in your ferrule creep repair video), a collared ferrule has an extra force on it to resist the push-away, namely the clamping force that squeezes the collar between the hosel and one side of the shaft. It's not perfect or foolproof, but it helps. The epoxy bond between ferrule, shaft, and top of hosel is very poor because epoxy barely sticks to either the thermoplastic ferrule material or to the chrome on the un-abraded part of the shaft.
Excellent!
Shafting beads are only there to provide optimal spacing for the epoxy bond. When two surfaces are too close or too far apart, bond strength decreases. There's a distance sweet spot that is usually the diameter of the glass bead. That's why you only need a tiny bit-- just to make sure the mating surfaces have a bead's diameter between them on all sides
By the way, you're videos are amazing
I’ve had a set of Muzino JPX 921 Forged irons for a year and started playing around with other shafts in a couple of the clubs. The epoxy that Muzino used in the original build seems to have a very low breakdown temperature but when it re-hardens it’s very it difficult to clean / scrape the excess out of the hosel. Any idea what epoxy they use? It’s kind of white in color.
Thanks and enjoy your content.
Regarding tappered shafts and hosels like the modern Ping clubs. They come from the factory with a collared ferrel. When you reshaft are you saying you don't need the specific Ping stepped ferrel as a replacement???
Correct. I say not only that you don’t need them, but that they are actually worse to use vs using brass shims.
Hey there AJ - your videos are so educational!! Love them - you have fueled my passion to take re-gripping to the next level - I need to ask you where do you buy your club tools and accessories (ferrules etc.)? And are there any name brands that you like better than others? TYVM!!
Look up all golf club component shops and start your researching from there
@@craigf1032 I like Golfworks. High quality stuff at very fair prices.
Hi AJ... Interesting and informative video as always. Nice work! I have a question about shafts that I wonder about. I changed the grip on my clubs the other day and under the grip there was a code/ID. Since I am also possibly interested in exchanging a couple of shafts for equivalent ones, it was a good find.
As I understood it, it is the model code of the shaft. The code was TTSUIC 42 which I later understand belongs to the True Temper Multi-step lite family. The shaft has a different shaft name according to the sticker on the shaft and is a "re-branded" stock shaft from a DTC golf club manufacturer.
How sure can I be from the marking on the shaft that the shaft is probably a TT multi-step lite? In your experience, are the shafts marked with the family they belong to even if they are then customized from the manufacturer in some way according to the DTC club maker's own wishes?
By customized we are really only talking putting a different label on. OEMs aren't interested in having some custom shaft specially made for them, they are interested in cost and public perception. If they can get a popular shaft at a good price, they will advertise that. If they can't, then they put a new sticker on an existing shaft and make it their own. The major brands don't do this so much any more because people started figuring it out. DTC is still more of the Wild West so would not surprise me to see it there.
AJ, thanks for the great content. I’ve been changing grips, etc for years but recently purchased a shaft extractor. I pulled a TaylorMade adapter off a driver shaft and want to install a Callaway adapter. I noticed the shaft has a tip weight installed, can I install the new adapter with it in or will this create a “pressure” issue with the new adapter? Thanks again for the great content, very helpful.
It might. You just need to work the shaft in and continue rotating it until you release the pressure. Also want to check on it for the first hour or so as it dries to make sure pressure isn't forcing the shaft back up as it dries.
I owe my knowledge to AJ and pretty good now - lots of golf shop pros don’t have enough competence.
You are very good at what you do, but I wonder how many heads become loose or perhaps fly off when beginners try this out.
Love the videos. Is there any downside to doing an extra fine grit polish or even a brush finish to improve the appearance of clubs that are a little dinged up?
I don't think so.
@@EFGMC Thanks I often use an extra fine stainless steel brush on my Dremel to smooth the bounce surface of my irons.
What ferrule do I need for a project x LZ shaft to connect to a Vokey wedge
Is it true that the longer the set time the better the bond..?
PXG clubs do use a collared ferrule to "adapt" taper tip into the parallel hosel (along with another piece at the tip of the shaft). Only one that I see that needs something special.
Those adapters are terrible. I can not stress enough that people should avoid using them completely. Brass shim and your choice of ferrule will always be my recommendation.
@@EFGMC I find the collared ferrules give me a much better finished product , as well as you do not need to use as much epoxy in the hosel , creating weak points , too much epoxy is a very bad thing in the joint
This is the way (Mandelorean)
I suspect that collared hosels were introduced in part to prevent graphite shafts from contacting a sharp hosel edge under load, leading to shaft failure. While epoxy alone might do the job in a countersunk hosel, if you are installing a graphite shaft in a conventional hosel make sure you round the sharp inside edge before installation.
@EFGMC What do you think about the ferrules that come with driver adapters? Eg. Ping has a rubber ferrule they use along with their driver adapters that they claim reduces breakage of the shafts.
Useless and unnecessary. Any standard ferrule, or collared ferrule will do the same thing.
@@EFGMC Thanks for the reply. You've also said collared ferrules are trash. So I take that to mean a standard ferrule is perfectly fine for a driver adapter? What do you do reshafting for driver adapters?
@@leifer20 Collared ferrules are fine but not necessary. It's the bigger Ping and PXG ferrule adapters that I really don't like. Reshafting a driver you can use either on that fits and has the correct shape to it.
Hi AJ. I need to reshaft an older Ping G2 driver that has a .350 hosel but I can't find any wood shafts with that size tip. Would you recommend going with .335 shaft but adding a brass shim? Also, what size ferrule would you suggest? Appreciate any help. Thanks!
Yes, shim the .335 would be the simplest. You can still find some random .350 shafts floating around on different websites for really cheap but they are pretty sparse at this point being over 10 years old.
If you go with the .335 shaft, then just match up a .335 ferrules with it.
@@EFGMC Thanks so much for your advice!
A question for you. When you fit a golf shaft into a head you put epoxy on the shaft and into the hosel. As you push down to seat the shaft any excess epoxy goes up inside the shaft. However if you fit a tip weight the bottom of the shaft is now sealed. Where does the excess epoxy go as the tolerance between the shaft and hosel is very close and I don"t see this traveling up the shaft. Does this mean the shaft is not fully seated ?
Steel shaft weights have a vent hole so epoxy and pressure can go through that hole. Graphite shaft weights may or may not and might require a small channel cut into it to again allow for pressure and excess epoxy.
Have you made a video highlighting all the necessary items needed to put together your own set of irons? For example, shafting beads. Or, what you need if the hozel diameter is bigger than the shaft tip. Type of epoxy, etc. It would be cool to see a list. If you already made one can you point me to it?
I have a chance to get some Mizuno iron with dg s 300 small band (og) they are 1.5 in length over standard 2 upright if I cut off 1.5 in off butt end what will happen
They will get shorter and the SW will go down. Depending on what and when they were built they may be very heavy right now in which case that would be good, or if they are lighter, you might need to add some weight back to the heads.
I've messed around with club repair and re-shafting. It's been over ten years ago or so since I have done any clubs. My question are is there a different epoxy for steel and for graphite? or are both shaft epoxy the same? Thanks... There used to be a Black color epoxy for Graphite and a Clean Yellowee one for steel shafts.
Same epoxy can and should be used for either. Color options are purely color options, not material difference.
Thanks@@EFGMC
Nice work!!! In my country we don't have those glass beads. So in case to need some, may I replace it with a tiny bit of sand?
I am reshafting my 2021 p790 irons from s400 130g to NSPro zelos 84.7 g shafts. How do i workout the swng weight? Regards Brett
The weight drop by itself will lose you about 5 SWPs. Figure 10g extra weight per head if you want to match old SW. That said, never assume that a certain SW in one weight set up will be the best option in a different weight set up. You might find that the new set plays better 2 or 3 SWPs lighter.
Hi AJ, thank you for your reply. I am 64 next month and have lost a lot of weight and physical condition due to a heart condition known as,, sinus bradycardia or slow heart rate. I am finding the s400 shafts to be a bit heavy, hence the change. In Australia the cost of having anything done is overly expensive so I'm having a go at doing it myself and using you're videos as a guide along the way. Love you're channel mate.
Do you have a video you can point me to about porting wedges? I play half inch over dg s400 in vokeys but high SW is interfering with release in every other club. D8 in 60 degree that I want down to d5+. If I spend time practicing with 60 degree, the rest of the set is out of sync. Need to port it. Thanks.
I don't. I've actually never done it. I have drilled down through the hosel to pull weight out but that's it.
@@EFGMC How many grams can you get out of the hosel and would that effect length? Meaning if I took the shaft out - drilled the hosel then put the shaft back in, would it be shorter?
@@MichaelShinosky I've gotten around 4-5 at most depending on the model.You drill using a smaller size bit than the shaft diameter so the shaft position can't drop.
@@EFGMC Cool. Thanks for your help!
I have a question.Ive installed quite a few shafts.A problem I have alot is when I insert poxied shaft in to hosel pushing down it has pushback.Shafts wants to push back up and I'm sure it's because of air trapped when I insert the shaft.Most of the time I can get it to make that popping noise and it fits on in and stays.How do I fix this?
Are you using old shafts? You should have a vent hole in every shaft that allows for the pressure to escape. Only time it should become an issue is when using some graphite tip weight that plug the hole.
@EFGMC Yes,they are shafts from other clubs just changing heads on them so in the end they are sealed so I guess that's why.The tip of the shaft needs to be able to release air up shaft.
do i need to use shaft tip (besides getting the swing weight) no matter the weight to cover the shaft tip hole? what are the pros and cons
Don't understand your question.
Can you buy the brass shims on golf works
yes
i got my ping i230s reshafted and there is a gap in the ferrel. The shaft isnt moving but the gap is quite visible. Should i be concerned?
If they used the "Ping ferrule adapters" then it's really only a question of when this will happen. Usually they stay together but.
I just regripped a set of i500s and saw that at least half of the ferrule were creeping. Client just brought one back in today because the head fell off so it happens.
Do you happen to know if a .370 tip shaft will fit the Taylormade Stealth irons. Broke a club in anger the other day and bought a new shaft. Used the golfworks 60-90 min epoxy and club head fell off on simple practice swing. Did I buy the wrong tipped shaft?
The game improvement lines from both TM and Callaway use .370 hosels so that should have been right. Did the shaft have much wiggle in it when installed. I have yet to have anyone bring me any Stealth irons so I can't say, but some heads have a wider hosel that requires shimming even with the correct shaft size.
@@EFGMC seemed like a good fit. Gave it a decent pull with my hand and it didn’t move. Then when I got to the course and it came off the epoxy was wet like it hadn’t cured at all.
@@HBTFDawgs Usually this comes down to not mixing enough before applying but hard to say for sure.
How do you feel about the 5 minute epoxy vs. The 24-hour epoxy? I've always wondered if the five minutes stuff isn't as strong as the long setting stuff.
You are right, but the 5 minute golf epoxies are still strong enough for the job.
Strength of the 24h epoxy is usually around 4,000 psi. 5 min is usually 1800-2500. Anything over 2,000 should work without issue. The bigger problem I have heard but never experienced is if you leave the clubs in a very hot car, the 5min epoxy can transition from it's glass like state back to rubber state and the heads can move. 24h epoxy has a higher transition temp so it's not an issue.
@@EFGMC Thank you! This is very helpful info!
@@EFGMC you can get quick set [about 15 minutes] from 3m which have a tensile strength of over 5000 psi
AJ, I have a 35" toulon putter. Can it be cut down to 33s " ?
Yes
Of course. You may want to add some weight to the head after you cut it though depending on the feel you prefer.
So this seems a bit off to me. brand new ping i525 have collared ferrules. pull the shaft, put straight back in and it has wobble without the collared ferulle. ping didnt need a shim, why should i use a shim instead of the correct ferrule?
If you can rest the club with the shaft completely vertical, then the collared ferrule can still work as long as no pressure is put on the shaft. Different OEMs use different methods to get the shaft centered in the hosel base.
I would rather use a shim and have access to any ferrule I choose rather than be locked into the Ping or PXG specific ferrule. Not to mention they are expensive for what they are.
@@EFGMC The collared ferrules work better for at least three reasons.
1. They help keep the shaft centered with the hosel while the epoxy is curing.
2. The epoxy has more surface area on the ferrule to bond to which will help keep the ferrule from working its way up the shaft.
3. The collar on the ferrule cushions the shaft during impact, which is more applicable when used with graphite shafts. It reduces shaft breakage at the hosel by a large amount.
can i use jb weld epoxy? any difference to the golf specific epoxy?
JB Weld is essentially permanent. Can't hardly take the club apart without destruction.
Look at the bonding strength and look at the breakdown temp when comparing epoxies. As stated some epoxies are hard to break apart which can be good or bad.
Are all epoxies similar or are there high and low quality brands/kinds?
Different compositions will allow for different cure times, tensile strengths etc. You want something that gives you a long enough work time and cures to between 2500 and 4000.
Agreed 100%
The stressfull re-shaft session I ever had was using Gorilla Glue epoxy, away too fast setting.
I tend to use the gorilla epoxy for woods, simple to mix and quick setting, you just have to prep everything before going near the epoxy!
Hi, how deep should the graphite shaft go into the head ?
I iron head will usually have a bore depth of between 1 and 1.25 inches in general. Anything over 3/4 inch should be enough to hold the club together. With irons you want to make sure that all the clubs have the same bore depth. Sometimes when reshafting, some clubs will have more leftover epoxy in the bottom and shorten the hosel depth. Want to make sure you even them all out.
For the brass shim…wouldn’t you need to epoxy the shim to the shaft and then the shaft to the hossle?
You make sure to cover all the surfaces with a little epoxy so that means some epoxy on the shaft, slide on the shim and then a little more on the outside of the shim.
@@EFGMC I’m glad I watched your video. I almost ordered a collared ferrule for broken G430 shaft. Got shims instead. Now I just need a .355 regular ferrule?
@@connerm4850 Correct. Standard .355 with appropriate outer diameter.
I forgot to say I would never trust anyone to repair any golf club for me, even putting on a golf grip.
Great info but very time you say "collared ferule" i think Colin Farell.....
Yep, too many shafting beads will make the head of your 7iron fly right off!
I'm so glad I don't need Colin Farrell. 😂
Who else feels like they got shafted?
Good info…..BUT. I will default to actual manufacture every time. Collared ferrule work if you know what you are doing. These makers are a dime a dozen on you tube. Take with a grain of salt
Collared ferrules are made to simplify the assembly process of mass produced golf clubs by assembly workers. They are in no way better, usually worse, and much more likely to fail. Your choice if you want to go in that direction, but we don't more people replicating a bad process just because it's how the manufacturer does it.