Chinese tubular control A-arms.
Vložit
- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
- Giving a purchaser warning about loose bushings on these Chinese A-Arms. I think it is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that the aluminum sleeve of the bushing does not spin! In this particular video I'm installing these on my 57 Chevy, and using Gorilla Glue to set the bushings in place in hopes of tightening them up for proper operation. I will update with a review in months to come. So far as I have seen after letting the glue cure, the aluminum sleeve does NOT spin, and the plastic bushing works as intended
Thanks for the review. I need to replace ball joints and bushings on my Impala so have been considering going with the tubular control arms and doing it in one…. May go coilovers as well.
At this time i have 20,000 miles on my tubular a-arms, with those "junk" ball joints... and they still seem good
I have bought a set of uper control arm over Seas and are to short.
I have a 70 monte carlo I bought the same upper and lower Tubular arms I have the passenger side in lower Tubular arms in I can't get the driver side in need some advice
Did you notice any height difference in the car's stance vs. the stock arms? Lowering the car vs stock height.
Difficult to say with total certainty... because I installed coil Springs that I assumed were a good choice and later figured out They were much too stiff and 1" Longer than stock Lenth. After triming them with stock A arms the height was closer to what I'd consider slightly high. When installing the new tabular arms, I tried to correct the height by trimming about ¾inch more on a 2nd cut. But after it seemed a bit to low on one side. So I used automatic transmission steels stacked up in the a arm spring cup, under the urethane seat cushion To help shim it up. I was happy in the end result... but I'd say the tubular ones will let the car sit slightly lower than the factory arms...when using the same spring. After my experience I recommend trying the tubular arms before you change any length on your spring. The tubular arms definitely won't raise it any. Btw it's worth noteing that the tubular arms Offer a convenience factor because there is some ability to shim under the a arm urethane Spring cup. But clearly it needs to be very solid shims and transmission steels were the most adjustable SOLID thing I could find that actually fit that cup.
Hi,
I like your review on these Chinese A-Arms. I think a lot of home mechanics are skeptical on using overseas parts as I am) on a classic car. What we tend to forget is all local auto parts stores sell replacement parts that are made overseas. We use these parts on our commuter cars we rely on every day. Maybe these A-Arms are not Global West, but they cost a fraction of their price too. Everyone I know has a budget. My questions, as I have thought about buying these as well, how are the ball joints holding up? I have read that people have changed out for better quality ball joints. Also, did the A-Arms lower your car, or can you adjust the spring cup pad to keep the car at stock height?
Thanks,
Scotty
I had no issue with them at all, so far I have about 15,000 miles on them and the ball joints still seem tight . It is true they will Change the original ride height if the same Springs are used, because of the lower placed spring cups, however I used transmission steels To shim underneath of the Rubber Spring cup, it was a great way to Return it to near stock height. It was a great way to fine tune my Springs from left to right to keep the car level. Although it was a major pain to have to remove the Springs multiple times in order to change those steel shims. I addressed the issues I had with them in the video mostly about the loose bushings and so far mine still seem tight. At this time after 15000 miles I can say that I am still very happy with them them and I very much appreciate the improved geometry that they offer
@@hotrodswoodshed7405 Thank You for the update. I'm glad they're working out for you. At 25% of the cost of UMI control arms, I'm probably going to give them a try too. I don't see myself putting any more than 2,000 miles a year on our 1968 Chevelle Convertible. There should be minimal wear with low mileage.
"Other than THAT [the one thing visible] I don't see anything wrong with them"
How did these turn out on the road?
I've been extremely happy with them! I put about 9000 miles on them since I installed them. My polyurethane Gorilla Glue fix on the bushings seems to be working out good. Everything is still snug and fits very well. The added Caster that is made in these arms is very much appropriate. Even using the so-called junk ball joints , they are still working really good also. I have absolutely no complaints about these Chinese made tubular a arms. The only reservation I have is the lower control arm mounting bolts seem to be not as strong as grade 8 Hardware. When installing one of them I stripped the threads when tightening. Which should have not happened with grade 8. My recommendation is to install grade 8 bolts on the lowering control arm mounts during installation. Even still I used the remaining new control arm bolts that came with the kit. And they have given me no problems
@@hotrodswoodshed7405 thanks for your detailed reply man... I will search for a set compatible with my 66 mustang - should be an upgrade over the original stamped arms I am still running
Great vid just purchased a set like the review tks
Glue....because duct tape was too thick !
Why not just order global west bushings?
I suppose thats one good solution...maybe. idk if the size is different...or the a-arm. But for me i just made the best of what i already had... for no additional expense. Hopeing...testing. so far 15k miles...still holding strong