Build a DIY 24V E-scooter Battery Pack | Razor E300 Upgrade (Part 1)
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- čas přidán 3. 06. 2024
- Hey guys! This is a start to a new series about upgrading/modifying my old 250W Razor E300 E-scooter! In this episode you're guided through on making your own 24V 7S 5P 11Ah 264Watt/hour Li-Ion battery pack for small electric vehicles, this battery pack gets used in the E-scooter seen in the video which previously used x2 12V 7Ah Sealed Lead-Acid batteries. Watch the video till the end to see how it all turns out and runs with the new battery!
If you enjoyed watching, please consider dropping a thumbs up, a comment, perhaps even a share and subscribe to the M.I. CZcams channel! Stay tuned for the ever-so-exciting next episode of the E-scooter upgrade series.
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Battery pack circuit diagram: drive.google.com/file/d/1ip6s...
Materials required to build the battery:
• x35 3.7V Lithium-Ion 18650 cells - amzn.to/3GHMMT5
• 7S 20A BMS Board (Battery Management System) with connector and wires - amzn.to/3Sv2LrI
• Nickel spot welding strips - amzn.to/3BPTzaG
• XT60 Connector with wires - amzn.to/3xUx6Ih
• 2-pin white Connector for recharging (included within E300)
• Kapton tape - amzn.to/3Sx7b1k
• 1-2mm foam sheet - amzn.to/3flvFMT
• 180mm Heat shrink wrapping (tube) - amzn.to/3w2rsm2
• 18mm protective paper battery-end rings - amzn.to/3dISMjM
🪛🔧🔨 Tools and extra supplies I use:
➡️ Soldering Iron Kit - amzn.to/3X6L5Wq
➡️ Hot Glue Gun - amzn.to/3E6trJG
➡️ Drill Machine - amzn.to/3EDe0u8
➡️ Box cutter/Utility knife - amzn.to/3hP9MGI
➡️ X-Acto Hobby Knife - amzn.to/3XbL7ML
➡️ Cutting Matt (Green) - amzn.to/3gil71A
➡️ Needle-nose Pliers - amzn.to/3ECTKc3
➡️ Wire Cutters for Electronics - amzn.to/3ECut1B
➡️ Wire-stripping tool (Automatic) - amzn.to/3hQsMVD
➡️ Screwdriver kit - amzn.to/3V6vgNX
➡️ Heat-shrink Tube Kit - amzn.to/3AksTPE
➡️ Jumper Wire Kit - amzn.to/3UGhMZq
➡️ Breadboard for Prototyping - amzn.to/3GlF4ze
➡️ Perf Boards, Pin headers, and Connectors Kit - amzn.to/3AkySUw
➡️ Superglue - amzn.to/3EE6uis
➡️ Duct Tape - amzn.to/3g5mTU0
➡️ Double-sided Tape - amzn.to/3Edta82
➡️ Kapton Tape (for battery leads) - amzn.to/3X58bNl
Also watch:
How to make 1000W Battery Spot Welder - • Build a 1000W Battery ...
DIY RC Panga Outboard motor Boat UPGRADE - • DIY RC Panga Outboard ...
DIY RC Transmitter & Receiver - • Build an Arduino Radio...
Music credits:
Digifunk - DivKid
LAKEY INSPIRED Chill Day Vlog No Copyright Music
Patrick Patrikios - Oh My
Patrick Patrikios - Know Myself
Patrick Patrikios - Crazy
Straight Fuse - French Fuse
Rinse Repeat - DivKid
#diybatterypack #upgrade #electricscooter - Věda a technologie
One important thing to consider if you are planning to make this battery for your EV. As much as recycled Lithium cells may work and are OK, their lifetime wouldn't be anywhere near as fresh, new 18650 cells. Motors as such that drive us forward require a good deal of power, so if you're serious about range and power, it's best to go with buying from a quality seller of these new cells.
With that said, I hope you guys found my video helpful! Under the same making process and connecting, all that should be different for best performance is new cells.
Tried this but barely got a top speed of 20kmhr . And battery power suddenly cut off when it was showing 80% balance charge
I use lifepo4 flat cells.4000cycles.battery hookup has 31 ah 65 dollars for 4 .16 make 52 volts.use a spot welder to weld the tabs.
And battery hookup has some lithium ion modules that sound like Shimano or something
Wrong some might run out fastest than other or fail plus there different batterys
There is a air guage extension hidden in the right handle. Spin the sprocket backwards until the hole lines up with the tires valve and then screw the extension in through the hole in the sprocket.
Thanks for the tip! Although I didn't happen to find an extension piece in the handle bars or my scooter, I'll keep looking for a substitute, and now know that one of those sprocket holes are for the extension :)
I love your works : editing, creation,… everything
Thank you so much! 😁✌
Your signature on all of your creation are …🥰😍😍
I'm very excited for the all episodes of this series
Wonderful work Buddy
Keep growing 👏👏👏
Thanks a lot for your kind support as usual!
Also looking forward to your next one! 😁✌
Man I’m impressed with some of you kids
Also BMS temp, or voltage cell readings are more precise with wires the same length.
Great mod, Max. All your projects coming together 😊👍
Yeah, thank you James! 😀✌
*mindblown* 🤯You are brilliant! This is a great video (although advanced for me lol) but it was cool to see how you built your battery pack. :) i had a friend tell me I could modify my GoTrax EScooter's battery to make it go further and also speed it up but I never got to see the creation. So thank you for sharing this rad video, you are very smart and also you could probably sell those packs for a lot of cash, they look better than some of the ones in the stores. Very clean cut and precise work. Great job! Keep up the great work, I'd love to see more videos of yours.
Thanks again!
Thank you so much for your kind words admiring the work I do! I'm always willing to keep on posting more and more helpful tutorials on such projects to assist viewers like yourself.
Cheers,
Max
Amazing video Max! Excited for further videos in this series
Thanks a lot, Abhishek! 😃🙌
Awesome Video Max!
Nice assembly of Li ion cells!👍
Thanks a lot, bro! 😊✌
the editing is amazing.
the video is good.
keep going buddy! 😀
Thanks so much!
I like your ideas max bro . Keep going 👍😊
Thank you! ☺✌
Amazing job and great video.
Thank you very much!
Amazing work Max 👏👏
Thanks, Kirtan! :)
@@MaxImagination welcome 😁
Hi friend! Nice job, thanks for sharing!
Thank you! 🙂
Ma you are the most creative mind i have ever seen
I highly appreciate your compliment :)
Great video. Would love to see a how to for a similar build with iron phosphate cells.
Hi there, Tim. Thanks for commenting! I'll write that down.
Amazing Idea Max 🔥👍
Thanks, Raj! 😀🙌
NIce job. Just newbie curiosity. Looking at the schematic, with the discharge wires connected directly to the battery, how does the BMS cut power to the motor when voltage is at the minimum safe level? Thanks.
Hi there. Thanks. It does not cut the power from the battery. This has to be determined by the user. I don't recommend buying one of these BMS boards for making such battery pack as the cutoff current (~3A) exceeds in no time and is too low, therefore I bypassed this feature.
wow really amazing idea Max
Thanks, my friend! 😊
@@MaxImagination you're welcome
New to this group. I just picked up a izip 500 for cheap. They had acid batteries that were dead. I replaced it with a 36v 10ah Lithium ion battery. They have the yellow plugs on them. Don't know the type. Don't shame me lol. I am plugging the battery into the scooter while the battery is charging. There are no instructions that came with this battery. I disables the charger that was stock with the izip. Thank you. All new to this and learning. Basically I live 2 miles from work and just need this as transportation for the summer.
Hi there. Good to hear you're getting well set for your own DIY-ed commuter EV! :D
Max , you are the best youtuber , I have seen ever! In yt history 📷😎
Thank you so much for your consistent kind support, bro! 😎 I appreciate it :D
Impressive work🔥
A big thanks, Kristoffer! :)
Nice work. I pretty much replicated your battery using cells that I had lying around. These came from scooters and were 2000mah originally. When I tested them they were around 1700mah, with an internal resistance according to the charger of something like 70mohm. I am a little disappointed with the end result, the "kick" and uphill performance is less than with the original lead acid batteries. It was still cool to do, but I have now bought a box of "good as new" EVE cells with 2700mah capacity. I wonder if they will perform better, I am a bit suspicious of all of the specs of cells out there. I hadn't expected for it to make a huge difference, but it kind of seems like it does.
Excellent diagram, I wish more people would do this. If you bypass the BMS on the discharge, how do you ensure that you don't over-discharge the pack?
Hi. Thanks for watching! I did this correction on purpose as these cheap BMS boards typically cut off if the load is drawing more than ~3A. The motor was drawing more like 15 amps or so which meant I could only use the BMS for balance-charging the battery. About over-discharging, it's more about feeling when the scooter has gradually slowed down to a lower speed after 20 mins of use. Knowing how low you're willing to drain the battery is key here. Over-discharge protection on a BMS designed for EVs would have to have a system cutoff when the amperage exceeds a certain high value such as 17A in my case.
Cheers,
Max.
You should buy a 25 to 35 amp capable BMS or babysit the pack with a handle bar mounted voltmeter
Great job brother
Many thanks!
Very cool
Pretty Awesome 🙌🏼
Thx for watching, Joshua 😊✌🤜🤛
@@MaxImagination no problem 😊
Cool project
Thank, William! 🙂
Very nice! I'm building this very same pack for a 24v motor. I was just wondering-- is it normal to be unable to measure each individual cell once it is hooked up into the battery pack? I'm getting 29.4v nominal, which is a spanking full battery (4.2v per cell). But when I probe individual cells, theres pretty much no voltage. The other thing is I'm using nickel strip that appears to be pretty thin, maybe only 0.1mm. maybe i'll have to double it up?
Thanks! Cool to hear you're also taken on this project, congrats! You should be able to measure each cell individually... That's odd 🤔
With the nickel strips, don't worry about the thickness, 0.1mm should work as long as they are wide enough.
Good Battery, Max
Thank you :)
If I were to buy new cell do you have a recommendation on where and what to buy?
I believe the best place for you to purchase 18650 cells in bulk would be Aliexpress. Sorry, but I can't find you a link.
Hi Max, very good work. One question, how to modify the battery package to receive 24 V 12 Ah? Best regards!
Hi there. Thank you! For a 12 Amp-hour (Ah) 24V Battery pack, simply add more cells in parallel. To get from 11 to 12Ah or higher, I suggest you start with using higher capacity 18650 cells. You could add another row of series cells in parallel to another string of cells on one side, but this may cause imbalance. You've better off then starting with higher capacity cells and calculating the total capacity.
Unbolt the wheel from the hub and put the valve stem on the other side.
Is it ok to use the original charger that was meant to charge lead acid for the lithium batteries?
Yes, I have had no issues with using it to charge them myself.
Very good friend🎉
Thank you! Cheers!
Amazing 🤩
Thanks 🤗
Is there room to fit another battery pack for switching over when one goes dead?
Yes! There just happens to be. There's enough space in the deck hub to fit one more exactly the same as seen in the video.
@@MaxImagination How has the battery been holding up from charging with a charger designed for lead acid batteries? From what I have read lithium batteries needs a charger that can provide constant current/constant voltage. The factory lead acid charger does a 3 stage charge process, Bulk/Absorption/Float that will damage Li-ion.
The rear tire design is not actually flawed, the hand grip contains a extension that fits through that hole in the rear sprocket.
Hi, Neil. Thanks for your comment. I didn't know about this feature that exists in E300s until I was made aware of it by another viewer before you. Actually, my scooter (bought it 2nd hand) did not come with a valve extension in the handlebars.
Max, do you like the Razor Scooters in general,? and why? not simply because of more easily modified? Like their chain drive? good power up hills? Thanks
Hi there. I generally have always liked Razor brand scooters for their fat and wide tires, spacious decks/platforms, and ease of changing out parts. They aren't the fastest in the market, but they sure are fun cruisers and good for entry level riders like myself. However, better battery technology and proportional/variable speed control would have been good to have in these scooters, but sadly, they're more on the toy side.
Still, great fun riding on these type of scooters. Cheers!
Hey that's a very nice video!
I am planning on upgrading the battey on my e-scooter as well. I might not do it myself but get the battery, however I wanted to ask you something since I'm a bit new to this. Is it really safe to charge the new battery with the original lead battery charger even when the charger itself specifies not to? what would be the advantage of getting another charger? Thank you"
Hi, Emanuel. Thanks for watching!
Cool to hear you're also changing out your E-scooters battery for one as such!
The differences are that by using your lead-acid battery (original) scooter charger with a battery pack like the one seen here that uses a "Battery Management System" module is safe and would work as I have been charging it the same way, whereas a typical Li-Ion cell battery pack charger would require a connecter consisting of many nodes from the actual battery, instead having the BMS integrated in the charger.
I've been charging my battery pack with the original lead-acid battery charger to this day ever since.
Hope you found this helpful.
Cheers,
Max
Hi have you had any issues since you built this battery pack?how long does it last when full charge?
Hi there. Yes I've had one major issue which is the cells completely dropping in voltage after months of use. Not able to charge the battery pack or revive it. Could have something to do with the BMS or that I over-discharged the battery pack. In any case, this was probably my own fault. I don't see an issue if you were to make it, I do though recommend using brand new cells.
With a full charge, the battery lasts me 20-30 minutes on the E-scooter
I learned fast that the SLA batteries were garbage, over draining them reduced thier range from 11 kms 6 kms, or 40 mins to 20 so I rewired them to sit on the front deck in a disconnectable waterproof bag that stays warm with insulation to -10 C, and can now charge it at work. I am ordering a 24v lithium 20 to 30ah in a bit with its own charger, how did you wire it in, you went to fast in the video, do I run two positives out? how did you by pass the wire to the controller?
Hi there. I bypassed the BMS, not taking its leads as the direct output. Instead, I simply took the 24V Positive, and battery's negative, then hooked them up to the controller via a switch.
Good vid! I have the E200 and will follow yours instruction. Why $60 to ship $70 battery? 😞
Hi, thanks for watching! Yeah, it's a pity to hear that the batteries cost that much and that they charge just as much in shipping cost...
Great, you go for it! When finding used cells for your battery, keep an eye out and avoid using near-dead cells!
Cheers,
Max
I saw you sand the battery poles by drill it should be, challenging.. 😅joke aside very clean work👍
Haha, it was challenging at first, but just putting the drill on my table and applying pressure on it while I turn the batteries up against the drill bit, it was very quick and easy to do.
Thanks for your comment! 😊
@@MaxImagination good idea. Looking forward your new video
@@retsetman9698 Thanks! =) ✌
You can make one more battery pack and use for backup
That's exactly what I was thinking when I realized there's space for one more 😉😉
Hi From Melbourne, Australia. How long does the battery last approximately on a full charge?. Cheers Fab
Hi there. The battery lasts 10-20 minutes per drive depending on the load put on the scooter.
So I can make a 7s battery and charge it using the existing charger?
That is correct, yes.
Max, I love your video. Have you thought about selling batteries like the one that you made? I would buy one from you for my Razor E300. Of course I would want brand new18650 cells in my battery.
Hello, Roman. Thanks for your comment! No, I do not sell the things I make.
For future reference get yourself a valve stem extension that you can screw onto the valve stem straight through the sprocket instead of having to go through all that just to put air in your tire
I have done that after receiving the same feedback from others. It's not a problem anymore 👍
even though i broke my e-scooter im gonna be building a new battery so i can use it with the motor to assist my bike and make it a e-bike!
Great idea. You go for it!
How do you check if batteries are good if the batteries has not been charged for over ten years? Where do I get the test charging device?
Hi, you can check a battery's health by using one of those car battery testers or simply just short-circuit a battery via a high-power (low impedance) resistor to the terminals, then checking afterwards with a multi-meter to see how well that battery withstood the test. If the battery's voltage is relatively high still, then it's a healthy one, otherwise it's a dud to use.
Great build but I really wish you would've shown how to wire that charging port to the battery I don't get that 😫
Hi there.
Thanks for watching. From the diagram linked below, you'd connect the charger to (C-) on the BMS and positive battery pack terminal. This may be confusing at first thought, but this is how you'd wire a BMS for charging the cells. Diagram: drive.google.com/file/d/1ip6s0YfpEQkzXyQQKvREkBDm2jEaXGa1/view
Hope I helped with clarifying.
Cheers, Max
What are your thoughts about VISET LI 24V 1000mah, E-bike battery, 15A BMS for 100W-500W. Amazon has them for $149… could it work on a Razor E300?
Hi there. Could you please send me a link so I can look at one?
VISET LI 24V 10000mAh Ebike Battery, 24 Volt Electric Bike Lithium Battery with 29.4V 2A Charger and 15A BMS for 100W-500W
pull off right handle for valve extender
I like your videos :)
Thanks for watching! 😊
Nice full support to you
Thank you 😊
Stay tuned for upcoming content similar to this video. ✌🏻
@@MaxImagination ok and plz look my channel ☺️😊
How to keep it from over-discharging? LVC?
Given the circumstances, one would be better off having a battery voltage indicator to know when to recharge the scooter. I had to do this modification to the battery to bypass the BMS's output current limit.
Hello brother, do have any idea to make this scooter run last longer than 1hour ... ?
Hello, Vireak. You'd probably have to use a more efficient motor such as a BLDC high power ebike motor as well as use a much higher capacity battery.
Cheers
Hi from Melbourne, Australia.
What's the specs for the nickel strips :length, width, thickness. Cheers
Hi there. The nickel strips I used measure: 0.15x6x50mm
Link: amzn.to/3G0S6lj
Cheers!
@@MaxImagination thanks. For a 24v configuration like you video. How did you work out the BMS ampage and cell about. Can you go 30 amp.
If purchasing a battery for this scooter, can ah be higher? As in 18 or 24ah?
The "Ah" or current capacity can be as high as you need... Just keep in mind the risk involved with electric vehicles when using more of these cells in parallel.
@@MaxImagination not sure what risk but I'm assuming the motor should also be 24 v but if using a 1000w battery I should up the motor to 1000w as well?
I wish I was like you 😂
With more learning and experience as you go, you'll get there :)
you don't need a spot welder, you can use 18650 holders. i used the 3-up holders, back-to-back for 6 cells = 24V per pack - 7 packs in parallel to get 24V 16Ah. Still think SLA 24V 14Ah was a good, cheap setup.
So how will you connect the cells?
The contacts on those cell holders have very high resistance. Jehu Garcia tested this. Even the expensive cell holders are only good for 5A absolute max 10A per contact and the holders are just no bueno in an EV. Stationary applications only.
Micah Toll from Ebike University(?) tested soldering cells with a thermal camera. The results were sketchy af. Very high temps on the outside of the cell who knows how much heat gets inside
You can creat front and rear light and add a battery just for that
All of that will be included in part 2 of the upgrade 😊
Great video learned a lot but when you made the mistake I lost it. So don’t think I could follow it now. But great video
Sorry about that. Shall I help you with the part you got stuck on? Thanks for your feedback & comment
That 20A BMS should have been enough unless start up surge was significantly higher and the BMS did not have a surge current rating (most do, double the continuous rating for 3 or 10 seconds)
The issue is, the motor's initial current spike exceeds the cheap BMS's maximum output instantly and fails to run the motor, leaving only a short jolt. Therefore, I had to improvise...
Bravo bravo bravo bravo bravo bravo
Thank you for watching! :)
There is a lead-Acid battery cut-Off on the old controller, not sure how the lithium would get to it s lower limit
The charger might be mismatched as told as well from others, but it has worked fine for my battery so far. Though, it would be worth trying to instead charge it with a proper Lithium battery charger.
@@MaxImagination Meant the voltage cutoff is set to around 12v on lead-Acid and about 10.6 on lithium if my testing is accurate!
Hi can you plz help me i cant charge my battery i did the same as you did
Hi there. Please check that you've wired the BMS to the cells correctly. Also, make sure that you connect your charger to the -C and the positive terminal of the whole battery pack (as seen in the diagram).
Additionally, may I know the specifications of your charger? Thx.
Cheers,
Max
I would not tell people to use cells taken from laptops. They often have too low of a discharge rate for an kind of a PEV. Some cells have discharge currents as low as 2-4A when new but after being used their internal resistance will double and that will affect their discharge rate. Even with 5 cells in parallel they may only be getting 5-10A out of the pack. This is the part of testing the cells where people advise testing internal resistance but an RC3563 or YR1035+ is $45 on Aliexpress and $60 on Amazon. You can’t rely on IR readings from chargers, they are wildly inaccurate. You can do your own DC IR testing manually but it’s time consuming and prone to human error.
If you want to use cells for a scooter you can buy LG MJ1’s or Samsung 25R’s from 18650Battery Store for $5. I think Samsung 40T’s are on sale for $4 right now and they are nearly the best 21700 cells out there at 4000mah with a 30’ish amp continuous discharge
Hi, Eric. Many thanks for your tips and suggestions on the cells! I will keep this in mind when making future battery packs. Cheers.
What is the range with this new battery in miles?
Hi, the range is around 8 mi
@@MaxImagination it’s not much more than original batteries??
But does it go faster and more power going up small hills?
@@kanikipk2814 It's a good replacement to those Lead-acid batteries which used to sit in the scooter before as Li-Ion cells tent to have way more recharge cycles.
It is a bit more powerful than before with new LD Acid batteries, but maybe not as much since I used recycles cells. That would be one thing to note for others who will make such battery, don't use recycled cells if you want full power.
@@MaxImagination
Can use hoverboard lithium battery 25,2v 40ah from Hover 1 Origin hoverboard to replace original acid batteries? Any modifications needed? If so what do I need to do?
4 ah 100wh 25.2 VDC
ACTUALLY battery is this figuration
Why dont they use the correct Voltage labeling Battery Packs? 24V is sometimes 6S, sometimes 7S. This is so important when for example choosing the right charger. The charged endvoltage ist very Importand if 6×4,2V or 7x4,2V. Nether the product of 3,6/3,7 nor of 4,2 fits the Voltage of 24 or 48Volt Ebike/Scooter Systems. Only 36V fits 10×3,6V.
Does anyone know why?
Yes, that can be quite confusing... What I would do is know that if the battery pack's voltage is 7S (25.9-26V) I'd find a charger that is 1-2V higher such as a 28V charger (from old E-scooter) and use that to top it up. Even better would be to charge such battery pack with a balance charger that can handle up to 7 cells and choose the cell configuration before charging. 24V just seems to be a convenient way of naming these packs for compatibility with other products.
@@MaxImagination you are right. Comming from RC Models, it confuses. In RC, it is simple. A Lipo is 3,7Volts. Times 6 is a 22,2V Battery, Endvoltage of charging is 25,2V. A Li-ion is middle 3,6v, Times 7 is 25,2V. I have to know the number of cells for choosing the charger and set the charging voltage. At a "24V" Battery, this is not given but needed.
Greetings and thanks for your videos
How much does it weigh?
Around 1.5-2kg.
You jump or charge Bad cells? Sometimes they come back contrary to popular beliefs. Charge everybody even Baddys lol. Watch closely. And you have to run them to see capacity THAT my friend will tell you if the BAD are good. Sometimes you get lucky. Always be observant is the rule anyway right ? Rock on!!!
Hi, yep often this just happens to be true, I went through a lot of old cells thoroughly testing and charging to finally end up with 1/3rd of them being decent and functioning, those I used for this battery pack. Cheers, Max ✌️
I would pay you to make one with new cells.
Why use flammable glue instead of the black corrigated 18650 holders? Don't the batteries need expansion room when heated up from charging/discharging quickly? Expense?
This is my first DIY EV battery pack, I used what I had at my disposal, glue seemed to do the trick. Since I haven't ever heard of Li-Ion cells expanding under a heavy load like Li-Pos do, it didn't seem like a big deal gluing them together.
Thanks for your concern, I will consider stacking them with corrigated holders for future battery packs.
@@MaxImagination Still learning myself ☺. Haven't done one yet, eirher. But, watching literally 100's of CZcams pack builds over a week. Re reading 12th grade physics textbooks, even. Including the exploding 18650 vids. And the electrical engineers who actually measure sub millimeter cell expansion rates, etc. Can't wait to build one myself, and ditch lead acid. Well done!
Just bought one of these scooters, and finding your videos has provided me with inspiration (in fact, your videos, amongst others, are one of the reasons I decided ro go for this scooter - and its cheap price lol)...
But there is one glaring error you've made that I feel compelled to point out!!! You say there is no access to the rear tyre and that this is a major design flaw - NOT TRUE! Inside the handlebar of the scooter there is a inflation extension, about 2 inches long. If you look at the rear chain guard, there is a hole. If you look at the sprocket, there is also a hole... If you rotate the sprocket and the wheel to line up the holes with the one on the chainguard (turn the wheel to line them up with the inflator screwthread) then you screw on the adaptor to the tyre and then you can easily connect to your pump. Instead of there being a design flaw, Razor really thought this one through and came up with an elegant solution. Of course it does help if you had the manual or you knew about the adaptor inside the handlebar grip. After I saw your video, I happened to notice the adaptor thingy on a subsequent Google search, which made me look at the rear sprocket and wheel more closely. Voila, there's the holes, and they all line up when you rotate the wheel!
Hi there! Thanks for your comment!
Yes. What you mentioned is valid with these scooters, as another viewer commented describing the same hidden feature about these E300s. However, mine did NOT seem to have anything tucked away in the handlebars when I went to take a good look at the scooter, probably because the previous owner had already pulled the inflation adapter out, leaving me in assumption of stating what I thought was a design flaw. So thanks for pointing this out for other coming viewers to keep in mind.
Cheers,
Max.
@@MaxImagination thanks for your reply. If you're interested, I found the manual for this scooter, you can get it from the razor website at razor.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/E300-E300S_MAN_US_180109.pdf
Page 4 has a picture of the scooter, and shows the valve extender and its storage location. Also, on page 5 is a detailed instruction on inflating the rear tyre, showing the holes I tried to describe, and with pictures! Hope people find this helpful, especially if they got the scooter second hand (and the previous owner hasn't lost the valve thingy!)
Good vid max itz Tilly btw
Hi! Yes, I can tell by your account 😃
Thank you, Tilly! ☺
Was with you until you said to connect the discharge lead to the battery instead of the BMS. That's a major safety violation; the BMS is there to prevent shorts as well, and it can't do that if the lead is connected like that. The problem of not having enough current is fixed by using a correctly rated BMS.
I bypassed the BMS for output due to the BMS not allowing enough current to flow so the motor can run with a person on it. The BMS is set up in a way only for managing charging. I know it's not perfect, but it works.
No way in hell I could make that battery. You should sell those, I'll buy it.
If only I had a factory of workers who wouldn't mind putting in the time to make those :) thanks for your comment!
Hello there, you said you made a mistake in the connection and its confusing because the tutorial is too fast, I will appreciate if you can make a schematic diagram and send it to me for the right connection of the battery pack with the BMS , battery charger and connector terminal for the motor. Please reply immediately. thanks
Hello, sorry for the minor confusion.
The downloadable Google drive battery circuit diagram link can be found in the description below my video. Everything is up to date and correct as adjusted in the video.
Cheers, Max
@@MaxImagination sorry I dont see the description box and link. can you send it by message. thanks
No worries, here is the battery pack circuit diagram: drive.google.com/file/d/1ip6s0YfpEQkzXyQQKvREkBDm2jEaXGa1/view?usp=sharing
Cheers, ✌️
Max
What is the quantity needed
If you're reffering to the 18650 cells, you'd need at least 35, putting 5 in parallel, 7 of those 5P packs in series.
All needed supplies to make this battery pack can be found in the description below the video.
range?
Range wil be told in the upcoming video ✌🏻
Can you make and sell me one of these I’m wanting it for my daughter’s razor scooter.
Hi there. I wish I could! Unfortunately, it would be too time consuming and costly to do that and ship the battery. I suggest you try looking for batteries with the same specs on Ali express or Amazon. You'll even save money that way. Cheers.
playing with microwaves is a great way to cook your insides.
@@MaxImagination I'm assuming nothing, just stating a fact. I'll check out the vid even though I do not condone DIY electricians.
Hi Max, great video but that pack is not safe like that.
Check out that video:
czcams.com/video/zgHlUwgiARo/video.html
Take care,
Rom
Hi, Roman. Thanks for the video link, I agree with what was told.
that bms bypass cant be good...... u can now drain the battery all the way to zero and that aint good...
I guess that wasn't smart on my behalf! However, I couldn't see how it would work otherwise with the 3A current limit.
@@MaxImagination maybe more powerfull BMS ? like 40a i think the BMS u used was a 20a
@@MaxImagination u know im about to buy that thing and i also want to build pack like you did i have a lot of good 2500mah 18650 cells i will need to buy spotwelder tho i dont want to solder them and yea ima need more powerfull BMS not 20a but 40a
@@MaxImagination and also when your battery somehow shorts out there is no protection at all !!! and thats really dangerous
Good points there! I guess I need to use a higher current handling BMS with those protection features.
Good luck building your battery!
Cheers.
Never use old used batterys not good idea
How long did it last...can I use it with 24v amplifier board....6s die faster
Hi. It drops from a charged voltage of about 28V to 23V (since it's a 7S battery pack) in about half an hour.
Cheers.