Sigma Art DN 19mm & 30mm for mFT - Review ( Quite detailed & made on a GH2 )
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- čas přidán 11. 09. 2013
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Very nice review and thx 4 the time you spend on this 4 us
Very informative/helpful 👍👌thank you!
Thank you for the review, excellent.
Now I just have to decide which of the two I will get first... hmm.
Nice I love these, I have both for sony E mount!
Great review, glad you mentioned the slight rattle in the lenses as this was a worry on both of mine. Still can't understand why Sigma would produce these lenses with inherent internal movement in them though. Keep up the great work.
thanks very much, very interesting
Another note- I have the older models of these lens, but I might put out that AF in video works quite well with no stuttering for me as long as face detect is turned off. I have noticed though that the AF in video seems "too smooth" as in it eases into focus too slowly sometimes. This is probably to avoid those awkward AF flickers and most of the time its not that bad. These sigmas are insanely good for the cost!!!
What follow focus gear was that? Can you give me a link for a focus gear that would fit on the 19mm?
+NigelBarros That´s the follow focus gear from EDELKRONE.
You can cut it to the right length - And I like it, because it´s "low profile" style.
(So you can let them always mounted - Even if you´re shooting stills with the lenses.)
I also like them, because they are not extremely expensive - Like the very similar ones from ZACUTO for example.
Not "super cheap" - But still affordable -> They sell around 20€ per piece:
www.edelkrone.com/eu/41-all-accessories
Nice review, I'm actually living in NY, going next month to Austria (Wife country :). ), and I'm getting info about good lenses for my Sony a6000, in order to capture the beauty of your Country! Gracias, Danke.
Hi, thanks for the review. Just a confirmation on my side, as I'm focusing on video. Does it mean that the background jittering (very annoying) only happens when AF is on? So there should be absolutely no issue if I use MF right? Thanks so much, and sorry for digging back this lens from 8 years ago.
Hi there. Yes. Its only happening wenn AF is on - The "jitter" in the background is due to too raw stepped AF points in the lens. Its not a problem when taking stills (as there you only shoot one frame and you´re happy ^^). You can use it with push AF (so the camera set to AF-S without autofocus for video enabled). That way you half press the shutter for a re-focus and it stays then there until you press it again. That avoids the all time refocusing = the jitters in the background.
You can also focus completely manual yes. But in general keep in your backhead: Nearly all electronically focused lenses have a "stepped" AF in some sort (due to the digital controlling - With limited amounts of "steps" from close focus to infinity). Most are very fine stepped (especially the newest native lenses and the "video centric" lenses in general like the Sony 28-135 or the 18-110mm for example). But for "true" stepless manual focus, you need to go for manual lenses / MF lenses or you can also use the direct coupled lenses from the DSLR era. Those are mechanically directly coupled to the focusing system - And you don´t have such issues therefor with those ones ^^. Though because of mechanical instabilities you have most of the time other issues with those lenses (except the latest versions which came out - Especially with Canon you need to go for the newest versions).
With some fully electronically focused lenses you btw. only see the stepped focusing if you have really thin depth of field - Or if you´re really close focusing with long focal lengths (had the same stepped behaviour about a week ago with the Olympus 12-100mm with manual focus clutch enabled at 100mm - You can see the movements of the lenses / focus point in steps at that focal length with close focusing - Due to the super thin depth of field).
Btw.: If you want to try out good manual glass, then check out the Walimex Pro, Rokinon, Samyang lenses (in case you don´t need AF at all). Those you get quite cheap sometimes on the used market (I wouldn´t buy them new though - too high pricing). You can get the: 7.5mm F3.5, 12mm F2, 21mm F1.4, 35mm F1.2, 50mm F1.2 and 85mm F1.8 UMC CS lenses for micro 4/3 - Great lenses (I had the 21mm and 35mm for some time). Or if you want to have AF too for taking pictures, you can also switch to the Panasonic 25mm F1.7 or the Sigma 30mm F1.4 (in case you have the 30mm F2.8 Sigma and want something smoother focusing - With even better / shallower depth of field). Especially the Panasonic 25mm F1.7 is REALLY cheap (also new). But as mentioned - In general: Don´t expect manual focusing wonders from such electronically focused "fly by wire" lenses ^^.
Have a nice day ^^. LG
Nice lenses for a great price
I have the original version 30mm on a G5. Amazing! Near Leica quality at 1/5 the cost! Where did you get the rubber focusing ring?
Yes. The Sigma DN lenses are VERY good (especially for the price they charge for them). Btw.: Also check out the 60mm - A very nice lens for portrait (and optically even better than the 19mm and 30mm editions)!
About the focusing ring: It´s an Edelkrone model. They are definitely not the cheapest ones - But also not that big (so they are better if you want to let them on your lenses all the time - Also while shooting stills for example). ^^
Very informative...Can I ask if you have done a review on the 60mm f2.8 as yet? I also wondered if you have found the lack of Image Stabilisation when used with Panasonic bodies such as the G5,G6 has caused any problems? Especially for example indoors etc?
No. Sorry. The 60mm is still just on my wish-list ^^. But what I´ve read about it, it should be REALLY nice too (and optically it seems to measure noticeable better than the other DN lenses). Sure. It´s not the fastest one (aperture wise), but it´s also quite cheap / affordable (and for sure a nice focal length for portrait shots).
About the lack of image stabilization: You recognize it yes. Especially with older bodies, where you cannot push the ISO to the limits (which is easily possible with the GX7 or GM1 for example - Especially with the GX7 and its inbody image stabilization). SO: With older bodies, it´s maybe better to go for the Olympus 45mm 1.8 (which is also REALLY good and way faster aperture wise -> So: Better for indoor shots.) - Beside that, it´s also a more universal usable focal length. Priced higher - But also worth every cent.
Hope that helps ... ^^
Hi thanks for the reply. Ideally I would like a mid range telephoto for taking images for shows on a stage. I already have the 45mm f1.8 and agree its a great lens.. but I need some more reach and dont really want to pay for the Oly 75mm f1.8 which is currently 5/6 times the price of the Sigma f2.8 60mm.. I only have the G5 and G6 and therefore it maybe worth investing in the new EM-10 Olympus as that has IS for both stills and video which I believe the GX7 doesnt? (only stills).. So its a tough one really.. I even considered looking at the Sony RX10..as that has a fixed f2.8 lens! Any suggestions?
NQ Media Well. Then the 60mm DN F2.8 is for sure a good option. Btw.: The E-M10 is a nice and compact camera (and the stabilizer is working quite well - Also in video). And it´s video quality is ok - But the features are STILL quite limited (bitrate, audio control and framerate wise for example).
The GX7 stabilizer is working only in stills mode yes - And the stabilizer performance is also not as good as the Olympus (at least compared to the M1, M10, M5 and the P5). But the GX7 is better video wise (in many aspects). So it´s important where your priorities are lying. For shooting primarily stills & primarily with non stabilized primes a Olympus body is for sure the better choice - Also if you want to shoot handheld video with unstabilized primes. Maybe just try to get a Olympus M10 kit (and sell the new 14-42mm EZ pancake zoom - That way you´re also saving money compared to the body price). Or you can also try to get a (like new) E-M5 for about the same price.
The RX10 is btw. by far not compareable - At least not for me. The image quality is ok. But not THAT good (from what I saw). The video mode is ok. But also not compareable (as there are problems with the stabilization - If I remember right). And only to get a F2.8 superzoom - I don´t know. Alternatively you can also go for the F2.8 zooms: Panasonic 35-100mm F2.8 Power OIS zoom for example (which is for sure also a VERY good choice for shooting shows on stage - Because you´re also more flexible focal length wise.) Also nice: You can keep using your G5 and G6 (especially the G6 with it´s also quite good video mode) ^^. And the stabilization of the new Power OIS lenses is REALLY good ...
Hmm. I maybe made the decision even harder - Sorry *g*.
No worries appreciate your thoughts. Yes a difficult choice I think. I guess it will be interesting to see if the new G7!? from Panasonic due I assume around April/May has IS built into the body as otherwise the EM-10 maybe the way to go. I did look at the 35mm-100mm f2.8 but that is over £900 UK pounds which in my view is excessive. We just need more Sigma lenses and other manufacturers to get involved which will then drive down prices. The Oly 75mm f1.8 has already dropped over £150 since release but is still on the wrong side of £500.
NQ Media Hmm. I don´t think that they will include the stabilization in the G7. It´s maybe the new "unique feature" of the smaller series (upcoming GM and GX bodies -> Hopefully it´s also in the next GM body - let´s say it that way). About the 35-100mm: It´s just an option ^^. And a quite good one - Because especially for such limited space purposes a good tele zoom is worth alot. Maybe sell the G5 to gain a little bit of money (and buy the 35-100mm used) - Then it´s maybe possible to get one (price wise).
Also don´t forget: If you really shoot alot on stage / shows, a very good zoom like the 35-100mm is WAY more flexible (compared to the 45mm 1.8 + 60mm 2.8) - Especially if there´s no time to change the lens or even more important -> If your position is fixed. But this is only theory - The best is for sure, to borrow a 35-100mm once (for one of your shootings). Then you´ll know if it´s worth considering or not (for you personally). If it´s not -> Get the 60mm 2.8 (Sigma DN).
Btw.: Sure. Cheaper (good) zooms and additional primes would be great (from Sigma for example). Altough: The actual DN lenses (19, 30 & 60mm) are quite nice already - I am missing primarily good & fast zoom alternatives. Btw.: The 75mm 1.8 is a Sigma design (also the Leica 25mm F1.4 if I remember right).
Excellent review, I enjoyed the content. I am very much interested about these lenses, have a kit lens on a GX7. I am trying whether 19 mm is the preferred focal length, but if yes I will go for the 19 mm Sigma.
donphobos Well - If you want a "walk around" lens, which you can also use as an always on (instead of the kit lens) - Then the 19mm is the perfect choice to go. As it´s giving you a nice (a little bit wider) standard focal length on the GX7 - You´re getting around 38mm full frame equivalence. Btw.: You can also combine it with the Olympus 45mm F1.8 in the future (for portrait stuff). Would be a nice alternative lens kit (instead of the standard 14-42mm zoom). ^^
donphobos Jupst keep in mind, that the Sigma lenses and the Olympus 45mm aren´t equipped with a stabilizer - So for video for example you still need the kitlens ^^.
AustrianGeek
Thank you! For portrait I have some Helios 44 lenses and Jupiter even.
I am still thinking about the 19 mm Sigma for general pictures of my daughter and 30 mm maybe for portraits (if AF is needed).
GX7 has in body stabilisation, I can use that if needed.
first- time photographer looking to buy another lens to accompany my kit. Thanks for this review! I'm still not too sure what I want yet but this is definitely leaning me towards the Sigmas. Any tips on what to look for in terms of buying my first lens?
Turbo9987 Well - It´s the question what you have (Sony E-Mount or Micro 4/3 - Because the Sigma Art DN lenses are available for both systems). Though: I personally would go for the 30mm 2.8 (DN) on a Sony E-Mount (which gives you about 45mm full frame equivalent) or with the 19mm 2.8 (DN) on a Micro 4/3 body (which gives you about 38mm) - IF you want to get one lens (to complement a basic kit lens - OR as a first "one and only" fixed prime lens).
Why? Because these focal lenghts are quite nice for "run and gun" shooting (even if it´s the only lens you have with you). And as the Sigma Art DN lenses are quite good quality wise (for a VERY good price), I would go for them when you´re starting to shoot. Sure - There are also other lenses out there (for E-Mount and Micro 4/3 systems). But the most of them are way more expensive - So I would really check out the Sigmas ^^.
Btw.: For Micro 4/3 you can also check out the VERY good Olympus 45mm F1.8 lens (which gives you a 90mm FF equivalent focal length), or the Sigma DN 60mm F2.8 on a Sony E-Mount (which is also a 90mm equivalent lens calculated back to full frame) - Both VERY nice for portrait shots (!)
HTH (hope that helps) ^^
Wow, thanks for the reply! I appreciated it! :-) I just got a Panasonic Lumix G5 which is micro four thirds. I've read though that it's generally not a good idea to put an olympus lens on a panasonic body since it won't have image stabilization?
Turbo9987 Well - Also not all of the Panasonic lenses are stabilized. Especially the fixed focal length primes mostly not. Only the zooms are all optically stabilized. Btw.: If you´re searching for an allrounder zoom, I can recommend the quite new Panasonic 14-42mm II ASPH - It´s a very good lens (though a little bit small and looking "tiny" on bigger bodies). It´s stabilized, small, lightweight, offers a very fast AF and delivers a very good optical performance (at a good price point). Or you can also get the new Panasonic 14-140mm F3.5-5.6 Power OIS superzoom. Also a REALLY nice lens (one of the best superzooms I´ve ever used on a camera). Though: The 14-140mm is quite "pricey". Oh. And the new 14-42mm II ASPH is also WAY better than the older (standard) 14-42mm from Panasonic (which you got maybe together with your G5 body as a kit).
Btw.: The Olympus lenses are all working like a charm on the Panasonic bodies. Especially the Olympus 45mm F1.8 is a DREAM. It´s a very nice portrait lens. And as also the Sigma DN lenses are not stabilized - Like most of the Panasonic fixed primes - I don´t see any point why you shouldn´t consider them ^^. There´s also a 25mm F1.8 available now (from Olympus). BUT: The 25mm F1.8 is priced quite high. And if you want to save money (or let´s say: If you want to get the best price / performance ratio), I would go for the Sigma Lenses. At least at the wider end I would go for the 19mm Sigma instead of the Olympus 25mm. For portrait I would choose the 45mm F1.8 Olympus - As it´s (as already mentioned) a VERY GOOD lens! (And focal length wise it´s a little bit more "usable" than the 60mm Sigma - Which is a 120mm lens on a micro 4/3 body - So quite "long" already.)
Well - That´s it. Choose as you like. Zoom only - Or Zoom + Primes - Or Primes only. It´s all possible with your G5 body. (Though my favorite would be: 14-42mm II ASPH + 19mm Sigma + 45mm Olympus - Or just the Zoom + the Olympus 45mm for portrait - Also a nice combo). Btw. - If you want to shoot movies too, a stabilized lens is a "must have". Especially for quick and dirty shots a stabilizer is necessary.
Hmm. Ok. That´s it now (finally). Sorry for the long text btw. ^^.
HTH (hope that helps)
AustrianGeek Thanks again! :-) Definitely helps out in my decision making!
I'm having trouble understanding the equivalence thing with micro 4/3 lenses. Is the 19mm a wide-angle lens or is it more like an everyday 40mm lens? And does the 30mm look like 30mm or like a portrait lens?
Well - It´s a little bit "weird" at the beginning - Yes. But short explained: The 19mm lens on a Micro 4/3 body is delivering a different field of view compared to a 19mm lens on a full frame or APS-C body. Most Micro 4/3 systems nowadays are using a sensor with a crop factor of 2 - Other APS-C bodies are using sensors with crop factors of 1.5 or 1.6 and full frame is always crop factor 1.
You always multiply the focal length by the crop factor - So: The 19mm would be a 38mm lens (visually) on a Micro 4/3 body (if you compare it to a full frame system) - Or: It would be a 28.5mm lens on a APS-C camera (with 1.5 crop). So on Micro 4/3 the 19mm DN lens is more of a "standard" focal length (as 38mm are not wide and not tele). But it´s a good always on focal length (used it quite intensively in the past). And it´s a good focal length to start with (if you like fixed focal lenght primes). The 30mm DN lens is (again multiplied with the crop factor of 2) a 60mm lens (compared to the full frame format). So it´s a "longer" standard lens and you can also shoot portrait with it (as it also offers very nice bokeh / out of focus blur). BUT: If you really want to shoot face shots / portraits, the Olympus 45mm F1.8 is the better choice (or if you don´t want to invest that much, you can also try out the VERY GOOD Sigma DN 60mm F2.8 lens). Altough don´t forget: The 45mm 1.8 is a 90mm focal length (full frame equivalent) - And the 60mm 2.8 a 120mm - So the 60mm is maybe not the best choice for standard portrait shots (where you want to capture more of your subject - OR if you want to shoot also indoor with it). It´s btw. also not as fast (aperture wise) as the Olympus 45mm lens (with it´s F1.8 aperture).
The best choice (at least it would be my choice) is: The Sigma DN 19mm + the Olympus 45mm F1.8 lens (which is btw. also now available in black - If you have a black body). Btw.: Also a cheap (wider) alternative is the Panasonic 14mm F2.5 lens. You can get it used for around 150 bucks (and it´s offering a 28mm field of view on your Micro 4/3 body). Altough it´s not the perfect lens as "always on" lens (as it´s nearly too wide). The 19mm DN is still a nice "middle way" - And quite cheap for it´s performance ...
Hope that helps ^^.
It helps a lot! Thanks for taking the time to post this thorough explanation.
+AustrianGeek //It is very hard and rare to get a black body on those lens.
I'm thinking of buying Sony A6000,can i ask which of these lens should i buy..Thanks !
It´s more or less quite easy - Do you want a portrait lens - Then get the VERY good 60mm F2.8 DN (very nice optical performance and smooth bokeh). Do you want an a little bit wider one (~28mm equivalent) - Then the 19mm. And if you want kind of a "normal" / "standard" focal length (45mm full frame equivalent), then get the 30mm version.
If I had to choose just one of them, then I would go for the 30mm F2.8 DN. It´s the smallest one (most compact one). It has less distortion (compared to the 19mm) - And with it´s 45mm full frame equivalent focal length (on the 1.5 times crop of the A6000) it´s kind of the best "middle way" to start with ^^.
Though: It depends according your shooting style, the locations and the other lenses you have. For example: If you´re shooting indoors quite often (with tight space), or if you want to shoot landscapes, then a wider lens is quite nice to have and kind of necessary. But if you keep the 16-50mm powerzoom kit lens (which is included with the A6000 kits), then the 30mm or 60mm is the best choice - I would maybe even go for the 60mm F2.8 - As it´s a nice addition focal length wise - AND kind of a perfect portrait lens on the 1.5 crop of the Sony E-Mount APS-C cameras.
But also keep the original Sony lenses in your mind. The Sony 50mm F1.8 for example has an stabilizer built in (and it´s F1.8 vs. F2.8). Price wise the Sigma 30mm F2.8 DN 1:1 compared to the Sonys makes more sense (as the Sony 35mm F1.8 OSS is WAY more expensive). But the 50mm F1.8 OSS & 60mm F2.8 DN lenses are price wise nearly too close together (for example 180€ vs. 230€ here in Europe). In that focal length the Sony makes more sense (in my opinion).
Btw.: I would always keep the kit zoom - At least for video (as you need an optical stablizer for that purpose). AND as the 16-50mm has full speed support for the Phase-AF System of the A6000 ^^. But you can also go for the (also quite well built) Sony 18-55mm OSS - Though not as compact any more it´s also a nice option.
HTH (hope that helps)
And sorry for the long text ^^.
Is it good for the panasonic gfk5 micro 4/3?
Sure. They are compatible to all micro 4/3 cameras. Even the older ones.
Quick question.. Sigma 19mm or Sigma 30mm for NEX 6??
On a NEX with 1.5 crop (and if you only get one of the two) - Definitely the 30mm. As it´s a 45mm (full frame equivalent) on your NEX 6. SO: A very nice standard focal length - Which you can also use more universal than the 19mm (which would be a 28.5mm). The 30mm is also better distortion wise (and it´s WAY easier, to get very nice shallow depth of field shots - In Video AND while shooting stills). HTH ^^
Correct me if I'm wrong, but since both are f2.8, would the DOF be the same, or atleast similar?
The only concern about the 30mm is that it just might be a bit too tight for indoor shots. This is the reason I was looking towards the 19mm.
Sure. It´s the same / similar (with the same FRAMING of your subject). But with the 19mm you get a way wider field of view - Which is maybe not wanted always (as you cannot get as close that often - Especially also while shooting on the street). The 45mm focal length of the 30mm Sigma (AND the very popular 50mm lenses on full frame) are very widespread & used quite often, because you get a very good representation of what you see (and because you can still shoot portrait with it - without too much distortion of the face & in general). And you also get more shallow DOF with the 30mm (aka 45mm), because of the longer focal length - Without that much distortion (from the focal length AND the lens concept of the 30mm directly).
Btw.: Also your subject (or object) is seperated better from the background (that´s an important point - The bokeh / framing is also different, because of the smaller field of view of longer focal lengths - So the bokeh is also looking way more "far away" - In summary: More bokeh & less visible background ^^). Especially the 19mm also has additional distortion compared to the 30mm (PLUS the wider focal length) - So especially if you also want to shoot portrait with it (from time to time) - Or People in general, the 30mm is just better.
Maybe you can try them out in a shop - So you can compare them by yourself. That´s for sure the best way. HTH ^^
i see the arctic sliver in the back ^^ anyways hey man we haven't talked since the benro BV6 time ^^ anyways quick question you think the focus issue would be negated if i used the app on my phone to use it remotely ? planning to use it on a Gimbal and i wouldn't mind pulling focus on the phone app or at least set the focus points there while operating :> ya planning to make a jib out of my (not yet pursued Gimbal :P )
Ah. There´s someone watching very carefully ^^. Yep - It´s quite a while now since we talked. About the focus issue / AF "wobbling" issue: Well - I shot this video with the already quite old GH2. It COULD be better now with newer models (as they also use faster AF readout speeds - Especially the new GH5 for example). But it seems like its a standard / quite common problem with the DN and the older EX DN lenses - The AF im pumping way more compared to the original native glass (also on the Sony E mount). Not a problem shooting stills - But not really perfect to shoot video.
If you need fast glass, then don´t oversee - Panasonic is now also offering quite nice glass with fast apertures (and low price) - The 25mm F1.7 for example - Or the quite nice stabilised 42.5mm F1.7. If you need something wider, you can also go for a used / cheap 14mm F2.5 - Not a super high performance glass - But very small, cheap and also comes with F2.5 (so at least its not starting at F3.5 like most zoom lenses). I personally use the 12-60mm F3.5-5.6 or the 12-35mm F2.8 on the gimbal most of the time. Works quite nice too (and 12mm are most of the time wide enough) - If you want super wide, the new Laowa 7.5mm F2 seems to be great (it´s on my wish list now for quite a while). With the Laowa you don´t even need to focus that much as it´s extremely wide - So most is in focus anyways ^^.
Btw.: About using the app to make a push AF (from one point to another) it´s MAYBE possible and ok to use the Sigma DN or the older EX DN lenses. But it´s still pumping a little bit more than the other lenses til its hitting the new focus point you pointed at. So you will still get a worse image overall compared to Panasonic or Olympus glass. So I would keep more of an eye on those ^^.
Have a nice day. LG
wow thats as much info in this comment as it was in the video xD thanks man :> i`ll look for that 14mm used i guess as i dont want to blow my budget on something i will use rarely :>
Good to hear that it helped to decide.
Btw.: I would also go for the 14mm F2.5 in your case. ^^
(Its a great lens for gimbal use and to start with a gimbal.)
i`ll google and see how sharp it is :> thanks :> ^^ and I JUST finished ordering my new GH5 ^^ 1800$ shipped :> with extra battery and a screen protector :>
i went to buy a battery and i ended up with the 19mm !!! its sooo cheap feeling and sounds like a toy xD BUT i got a great deal on it :> 130$ NEW with 3 years warranty plus i want it to get so i could color match with my 18-35 :> annnnnnnnnnd couldn't find that 14mm used in time :> don't hate me as i hate myself already :P but i like my new toy lens tbh ^^ and damn that GH5 is heavy xD light/small MFT my ass xD
Wow, they're that old.. I just bought the 30mm (new).
Yeah. They are quite old. But also quite ok for what you pay for them. Especially the 60mm F2.8 (and as long as you use them primariyl for stills they are good lenses ^^). LG
Nd filter size please?
All three (19, 30 and 60) are using 46mm filters ^^.
Is there a cheap adapter I can buy to attach it to a sony a7r camera
+Bryson Roatch These lenses you also get with native Sony E-mount. So you don´t need an adapter of any kind. BUT keep in mind: These lenses (19, 30 and 60mm F2.8) are all only covering APS-C size (not full frame - Which your A7r is capable of). So you could only use them in APS-C crop mode. LG